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  1. #1
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    Possible alternative for making silnylon

    I have been looking at various information on the site here as well as on the internet. I am aware that there is a lot of discussion about how to make silnylon but I saw a video today that might suggest an alternative and wanted to see what y'all think about it. As a note, he uses 2 parts beeswax + 1 part turpentine + 1 part linseed oil. He said this is a recipe that has been passed down for generations in his family and he can store the excess to be used at later times. A couple of things I wonder are 1. the cost compared to the other, more standard methods mentioned on this site 2. what would be the weight difference be in the end using this method vs the other standard method(s) 3. the application of it might take longer than the other method(s). I'd love to hear your thoughts on this subject (not just responses about my specific thoughts).
    Last edited by Norg; 09-06-2013 at 12:36.

  2. #2
    Senior Member XTrekker's Avatar
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    I think the typical application for that is on canvas...Not sure how effective it would be on nylon but I guess its worth experimenting with. Never know until ya try it out..

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by XTrekker View Post
    I think the typical application for that is on canvas...
    ^this...sounds like a mess on nylon.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Norg View Post
    I have been looking at various information on the site here as well as on the internet. I am aware that there is a lot of discussion about how to make silnylon but I saw a video today that might suggest an alternative and wanted to see what y'all think about it. As a note, he uses 2 parts beeswax + 1 part turpentine + 1 part linseed oil. He said this is a recipe that has been passed down for generations in his family and he can store the excess to be used at later times. A couple of things I wonder are 1. the cost compared to the other, more standard methods mentioned on this site 2. what would be the weight difference be in the end using this method vs the other standard method(s) 3. the application of it might take longer than the other method(s). I'd love to hear your thoughts on this subject (not just responses about my specific thoughts).
    I use something similar to this, beeswax and mineral oil, to coat the blade of my knife to keep it from rusting. You really do not want this on nylon. The Linseed oil is used to soften the beeswax. You melt the beeswax, add the oil, and in this guy's case presumably add the turpentine as well while everything is hot & liquid. While this WILL work, the problem is that the linseed oil makes the beeswax melt at a MUCH lower temperature than normal. Think chapstick on a hot day and you'll be getting close. The hotter the temperature that the nylon is subjected to, the more liquid the coating will become until eventually it is completely useless. It may evaporate a little over time but then you'd be left with a nylon meshed material that is only water resistant. If it were to rain hard enough the water would come right through the fabric as a very fine mist. This mix is great for things like canvas and leather that are not woven or at least a very thick weave, but on the thicknesses of the materials we use it doesn't really do much but make a mess.

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