BananaWebTurtleSchwenkDanglerDog stand
For now I am calling this the BananaWebTurtleSchwenkDanglerDog stand (BWTSDD for the typing impaired, try saying it with a German accent). I worry that might be leaving somebody out.
So here goes I'm throwing this out there for all of you to see knowing all the warts are about to be pointed out.
https://www.hammockforums.net/galler...e_dump_027.jpg
Here is the recipe I cooked up. I had many of the parts at home already.
Ingredients:
½” conduit 10' long x3@ $2.25ea (up-sized version uses ¾ inch conduit)
3/8” -16 nuts x6 @ $.20 ea (the up-sized version uses 1/2” hardware, nuts, eye bolts, and shackles)
3/8”x5” eye bolt x6 @ $1.39ea
3/8”anchor shackle x2 @ $6.29ea
Locking carabiner 3/8” x2 @ $3.23ea
7” continuous loop x2 @ $7.00ea
5/8” rubber leg tips or feet x6@ $1.85 (4 pk)x2
Para cord 20' @ $2.97 (50 ft 100 lb load)
1” conduit 10' long x1 @ $6.77
Cost: Total estimate $65 approx. (I made it out of the store under $20).
Tools:
Pipe cutter $12
Hammer $15
Drill $50 (Some would say optional, I wanted an all terrain hang however)
3/16” Bit $5
(all tools were already owned, tool estimates were pulled out of the thin air)
Time: Who knows! I snuck it into the middle of all the honey-do's while Mrs. Webhanger thought I was dutifully occupied. This was easily accomplished in one afternoon plus all the honey-do list was completed to cover my tracks. Maybe a couple of hours. Way less time than it took to write this however.
Method:
1. Take ½” conduit cut to 5' lengths to create the 6 legs. (This is the econo' Low-rider version)
2. Screw the second nut onto each of the eye bolts. The eye bolts came with one on it. The two nuts should be separated by a couple of inches. This should keep the eye bolts from shifting in the conduit once they are tapped into place. Leave an inch or so of play in one direction so that the eyelet can be adjusted a little.
3. Using the manufactured ends of my now 5' pieces of conduit and the hammer, gently tap the eye bolt with nuts into the conduit. I lined up the edges of the nuts so that they created only one set of grooves in the inside of the conduit. But I doubt it would matter. Tap until the top nut is flush with the top of the conduit. Repeat until all 6 legs have the eye bolts on top.
4. Remove two of the eye bolts by unscrewing them from the nuts that are now embedded in the conduit. These will become your center or back legs.
5. These center or back two pieces get holes drilled 3/16” or smaller (big enough to get your para cord through) completely through both sides of the conduit one to two inches up from the freshly cut end which is now the bottom. Now set them to the side. We will come back to them in a few minutes.
6. The remaining four legs get a hole drilled the same height as the other legs one to two inches up from the bottom which only penetrates one side of the conduit.
7. On one end of your para cord tie an Ashley Stopper Knot http://www.animatedknots.com/ashleys...matedknots.com
Measure the spread you want on your legs and mark it on the cord measuring from the knot (I used thirty 30” inches). Feed the line from the bottom of one leg through the hole you just drilled and into the other leg hole and out the bottom (a wire can be used to help fish the cord through). Tie off the end at the mark with another Ashley Stopper Knot and cut the cord.
8. With the knots inside the tubing press the rubber leg tips onto the bottoms of the legs and repeat steps 6-8 with the other set.
9. With one of the remaining two center or back legs tie a loop on one end of your cord just big enough to fit over the rubber leg tip and measure the spread from your loop and mark. Feed the cord through one of the holes drilled into the conduit and out the bottom. Tie the Ashley Stopper Knot at your mark and feed the remaining line back up through the the center of the leg and out the other drilled hole using a wire to assist you. Tie another loop at the spread distance to finish off. Repeat on the other leg and press on the rubber feet.
Your legs are now ready to assemble into a tripod.
Some assembly required:
Now take one of your outside leg pairs, a free eye bolt with no leg attached, a locking carabiner, a continuous amsteel loop, and a shackle.
The shackle has a threaded and a non threaded hole for the shaft to fit and screw into.
IMPORTANT Feed the non threaded end part thingy of the shackle into the eyelets placing the free eye bolt in the middle of your two outside legs. This will be the top part when your tripod is completely assembled.
Now place a continuous loop in the carabiner and place the carabiner over the threaded (bottom) end part thingy of the shackle so that when you lock the carabiner gravity will help the carabiner stay closed.
Screw the shaft into the shackle.
If you have done this correctly gravity will help prevent the threads on both the shackle and the carabiner from coming loose. These threads should be checked regularly to ensure they are not working loose.
Now set your eye bolts to look like this....https://www.hammockforums.net/galler...p?i=22012&c=15
Then screw on the middle leg. When complete it should look like this....
I use the spread limiting chords to make this a truly all terrain haven. Setting my loops and legs like this....https://www.hammockforums.net/galler...&cutoffdate=-1
https://www.hammockforums.net/galler...&cutoffdate=-1
I attach my top pole in the amsteel continuous loop on the carabiner it is larks headed to the pole. With my suspension prusiked around the larks head like this.........https://www.hammockforums.net/galler...p?i=22007&c=15
Notes:
It is important that the suspension from the hammock to the prusik be the outside half of the knot as the reverse tends to not hold as well and will sometimes slowly slip until one end come loose, then it will rapidly accelerate (ground hardness test in progress). I will re shoot this next time I set it up so the picture is clear.
Origins:
About a year ago in search of hammocks to rescue mine from being kidnapped by the Webhanger clan, I joined hammockforums. Although I was not able to find what I originally set out for I have been inspired to create an ARG of hammocks with many of the accoutrements. In the process I built a Turtledog stand, which I like. I have tested a version by Dangler which has some benefits I like also. Then I saw Bananahammocks experiment based off of the Schwenker barbecue design. Putting their ideas and concepts to work on my four brain cells (one design on each) I thought the vibrating might inspire a new concept in my head.
My goal was a safe stand, with minimum tools, time, and cost to build, while being easy to transport, set up, and use. So easy that my eight year old could learn to safely set up and use in one lesson taking less than four minutes (his approximate attention span).
Realizing I had many of the parts kicking around the house. I decided a field trip to my non hammock happy place was in order. So off to the hardware store I went for some quiet, contemplative, meditation. While there I had some inspiration among my reflection, not all of which I can blame on the stores attendant. When I realized I had something that I thought would be successful and a budget I thought I could hide from the Mrs. Webhanger auditing agency. I decided to go for it.
Testing in progress.:
Never hang higher than you are willing to fall.
Hang your own hammock (HYOH)
No Webhanger monkeys were killed or injured in the creation of this stand. TRUE STORY!
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Originally Posted by gmcttr
Determining it is solid I went to stage two testing. 
monkeys roughly dove into the hammock. The Turttledog shifted the back leg about 10 deg
but did not go over. The new tripod didn't budge.
I have had an ongoing issue with the Turtledog stands back leg wanting to twist. I am not sure if it is the way I positioned the hinges or an inherent problem in the design. Anyway the BWSTSDD was solid as a rock. After resetting that leg we were back in business. I was a bit concerned with the 1/2" tubing being enough to bear the weight and pressures involved in the motions. I am sure some mechanical engineer some place could figure the approximate point of failure. But for now I am confident that it will hold what I am sending at it. Maybe someday when I get bored I will push it to failure. 
That should be entertaining. 
I was the third to give it a try. As demonstrated by the previous testers everything went fine with the new design. I was very pleased (nice 
nap) with no points of concern to note at present. 
I think once I sort out the ridgepole design I should be able to be hanging in under 5 minutes. I am targeting two minutes, once I get the design right and become proficient with it.
I will post a couple more pics and the remainder of my results at that point.
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