I just got back from a 5 day backpacking trip in the Smokies. It was a rather gruelling 56 mile trip where we hiked up and over the AT ridge three times. Topo told me that this trip included 23,300 ft of elevation gain, and 22,300 ft of elevation loss.
The wildlife was abundant, but I was slow with the camera. We saw bats, woodpeckers, a coyote, a boar, and a bear shimmy/fall 20 ft out of a tree in his desperate attempt to get away from the evil humans who dared to enter his domain.
Trip Map
Day 1 - We started at Fontana Dam and hiked out Lakeshore Trail to Eagle Creek Trail. The last time I did Eagle Creek was 15 years ago in the spring after heavy rains and while it was snowing.... it was cold, fast, and up to my groin. This time though, the weather was better and the water was only knee high, but we still put on sandals at the first creek crossing and left them on for the 4 mile stretch up to campsite 97 (some 16 creek crossings later). Rock hopping was not a good option.
One of 17 fordings of Eagle Creek. Poles and sandals were a must!
Day 2 - From campsite 97 on Eagle Creek, we hiked up to Spence Field and out on the AT to Rockytop for a late lunch. Then we doubled back and went down Jenkins Ridge trail down to campsite 84 on Hazel Creek. We had to mix in some headlamp action on the descent though, since we were lazy bums and didn't get out of camp until 10pm on our worst day (15+ miles, stupid steep uphill on Eagle Creek, stupid steep downhill on Jenkins Ridge). We got in to camp at 8pm.
Rockytop looking towards Lake Fontana
Day 3 - From 84, we followed Hazel Creek, Lakeshore and Lost Cove trails to campsite 91 on Lost Cove trail. This was a rather laid back day where we got to enjoy the old lumber kilns along Hazel Creek and tour the Calhoun house that still stands as the last vestige of the village of Proctor. We also hiked out along the spur trail that leads down to Lake Fontana from Proctor and continued to marvel at how sick the shoreline looks since they drained down the dam to alleviate pressure on the crack. We had Lost Cove campsite all to ourselves so we lit up our traditional La Gloria Cubana cigars and enjoyed the evening.
Bats love the old Calhoun House
Day 4 - Another but kicker day. We climbed back up to the stateline ridge on Lost Cove (could I buy a switchback.... please) and joined the AT and took it up to the junction with the Gregory Bald Trail. After a nice stopover at Moore Spring, we hiked on up to the Bald and had the hiker lunch of champions under a gnarled old tree. The views were fantastic on the wide open bald. We then hiked on out Wolf Ridge trail past the campsite at Sheep Pen Gap and over Parsons Bald down to our last campsite at 95. We got in to camp just as it was getting dark and set up as it started to rain. We got supper cooked before it started raining too heavy and then retreated under my hammock tarp to enjoy our dinners. It was another brutal day on the trail, so we got our camp chores done as quick as we could in the rain and then retired for the evening by 8pm.
Lost Cove Trail in the clouds
Gregory Bald
Undisputed king of backpacking lunches
Gregory Bald
Day 5 - Up at 5:45. On the trail by 6:45 with headlamps aglow. By 7:30, we had reached the junction with Twentymile Loop Trail, turned off our lights and set out for a long gradual uphill on Twentymile Loop and Twentymile trail back up to the AT and on up to Shuckstack firetower for some of the most amazing views I have seen in the Smokies. The weather was mostly clear with a few clouds drifting through the valleys. Beautiful views. The lower elevations were at peak color and they bore a cacophonous riot of color. The 4 mile downhill back to our car was painful, but bore a payoff as we basked in the extreme hospitality of the TVA provided showers at the Fontana Dam visitors center. We were off the trail by 12:45, showered by 2, at Calhoun's in Maryville by 3:30 (after cruising the Tail of the Dragon in my minivan with the Harleys, rice rockets, Ferraris and Lamborghinis). Got back to my wifey in Ohio by 11:30pm.
View from Shuckstack Fire Tower
Fontana Dam
Me - Dead after a long trip
Hammock info - I used my warbonnet ridgerunner with hammock gear cuben tarp (custom fitted for the ridgerunner). Worked great and slept well. We had rain on 3 of our nights, but it was light enough that I never really had to rig it for a storm pitch. For insulation, I used an Exped Synmat UL7 LW that fits perfectly in my pad pocket on my double layer hammock. On the first night, it got down to 25F so I supplemented with a torso length 3/8" thick foam pad in the pad pocket as well. For top insulation, I used a 30-35F 800 down quilt that I made for myself several years ago when few of the cottage gear guys were making that kind of kit. I was a little worried about being cold on the first night, but I brought some super thick camp socks, merino long johns, and a down jacket to keep me warm and they did the trick. I didn't have any problems finding good trees to hang from, but I prefer to bring my pad and a groundsheet in case I have to go to ground.
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