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  1. #1
    Senior Member mad goat's Avatar
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    GSMNP 4 Night Hang, 5 Day Hike

    I just got back from a 5 day backpacking trip in the Smokies. It was a rather gruelling 56 mile trip where we hiked up and over the AT ridge three times. Topo told me that this trip included 23,300 ft of elevation gain, and 22,300 ft of elevation loss.

    The wildlife was abundant, but I was slow with the camera. We saw bats, woodpeckers, a coyote, a boar, and a bear shimmy/fall 20 ft out of a tree in his desperate attempt to get away from the evil humans who dared to enter his domain.

    Trip Map


    Day 1 - We started at Fontana Dam and hiked out Lakeshore Trail to Eagle Creek Trail. The last time I did Eagle Creek was 15 years ago in the spring after heavy rains and while it was snowing.... it was cold, fast, and up to my groin. This time though, the weather was better and the water was only knee high, but we still put on sandals at the first creek crossing and left them on for the 4 mile stretch up to campsite 97 (some 16 creek crossings later). Rock hopping was not a good option.

    One of 17 fordings of Eagle Creek. Poles and sandals were a must!


    Day 2 - From campsite 97 on Eagle Creek, we hiked up to Spence Field and out on the AT to Rockytop for a late lunch. Then we doubled back and went down Jenkins Ridge trail down to campsite 84 on Hazel Creek. We had to mix in some headlamp action on the descent though, since we were lazy bums and didn't get out of camp until 10pm on our worst day (15+ miles, stupid steep uphill on Eagle Creek, stupid steep downhill on Jenkins Ridge). We got in to camp at 8pm.

    Rockytop looking towards Lake Fontana


    Day 3 - From 84, we followed Hazel Creek, Lakeshore and Lost Cove trails to campsite 91 on Lost Cove trail. This was a rather laid back day where we got to enjoy the old lumber kilns along Hazel Creek and tour the Calhoun house that still stands as the last vestige of the village of Proctor. We also hiked out along the spur trail that leads down to Lake Fontana from Proctor and continued to marvel at how sick the shoreline looks since they drained down the dam to alleviate pressure on the crack. We had Lost Cove campsite all to ourselves so we lit up our traditional La Gloria Cubana cigars and enjoyed the evening.

    Bats love the old Calhoun House


    Day 4 - Another but kicker day. We climbed back up to the stateline ridge on Lost Cove (could I buy a switchback.... please) and joined the AT and took it up to the junction with the Gregory Bald Trail. After a nice stopover at Moore Spring, we hiked on up to the Bald and had the hiker lunch of champions under a gnarled old tree. The views were fantastic on the wide open bald. We then hiked on out Wolf Ridge trail past the campsite at Sheep Pen Gap and over Parsons Bald down to our last campsite at 95. We got in to camp just as it was getting dark and set up as it started to rain. We got supper cooked before it started raining too heavy and then retreated under my hammock tarp to enjoy our dinners. It was another brutal day on the trail, so we got our camp chores done as quick as we could in the rain and then retired for the evening by 8pm.

    Lost Cove Trail in the clouds


    Gregory Bald


    Undisputed king of backpacking lunches


    Gregory Bald


    Day 5 - Up at 5:45. On the trail by 6:45 with headlamps aglow. By 7:30, we had reached the junction with Twentymile Loop Trail, turned off our lights and set out for a long gradual uphill on Twentymile Loop and Twentymile trail back up to the AT and on up to Shuckstack firetower for some of the most amazing views I have seen in the Smokies. The weather was mostly clear with a few clouds drifting through the valleys. Beautiful views. The lower elevations were at peak color and they bore a cacophonous riot of color. The 4 mile downhill back to our car was painful, but bore a payoff as we basked in the extreme hospitality of the TVA provided showers at the Fontana Dam visitors center. We were off the trail by 12:45, showered by 2, at Calhoun's in Maryville by 3:30 (after cruising the Tail of the Dragon in my minivan with the Harleys, rice rockets, Ferraris and Lamborghinis). Got back to my wifey in Ohio by 11:30pm.

    View from Shuckstack Fire Tower


    Fontana Dam


    Me - Dead after a long trip


    Hammock info - I used my warbonnet ridgerunner with hammock gear cuben tarp (custom fitted for the ridgerunner). Worked great and slept well. We had rain on 3 of our nights, but it was light enough that I never really had to rig it for a storm pitch. For insulation, I used an Exped Synmat UL7 LW that fits perfectly in my pad pocket on my double layer hammock. On the first night, it got down to 25F so I supplemented with a torso length 3/8" thick foam pad in the pad pocket as well. For top insulation, I used a 30-35F 800 down quilt that I made for myself several years ago when few of the cottage gear guys were making that kind of kit. I was a little worried about being cold on the first night, but I brought some super thick camp socks, merino long johns, and a down jacket to keep me warm and they did the trick. I didn't have any problems finding good trees to hang from, but I prefer to bring my pad and a groundsheet in case I have to go to ground.

  2. #2
    Senior Member chattalotchuck's Avatar
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    I like it! "alot" Mad goat that sounds like fun, thanks for sharing.
    Forgiving enhances living. Whatever you are doing could be the last thing you do, so make it count. FKA chuck

  3. #3
    Senior Member FireInMyBones's Avatar
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    Sounds like a good trip. I really like the way you captured the fel of the Lost Cove Trail in the Clouds.
    Your report was fun to read, and makes me glad the Smokies are open again.
    -Jeremy "Brother Bones"
    Quote Originally Posted by FLRider View Post
    ...he's a mountain goat crossed with a marathoner.

  4. #4
    Senior Member Ewker's Avatar
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    nice trip report and pics
    'Classic.' A book which people praise and don't read.” ― Mark Twain

    Who cares about showers, gourmet food, using flush toilets. Just keep on walking and being away from it all.

    There are times that the only way you can do something is to do it alone.

  5. #5
    TallPaul's Avatar
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    Enjoyed the report and the pics. And thanks for the map with multi colored lines, it helped picture where you were at each day. I liked the figure 8 routing.

    Did the hills in Ohio prepare you for all that elevation gain?
    Any problems getting permits for your route?

  6. #6
    Senior Member mad goat's Avatar
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    @TallPaul - The hills in Southern Ohio are fine, but I don't do much backpacking here. I prefer to take my vacation time and travel to mountains instead. I did do a bit of the Shawnee Backpack Trail in Ohio this spring, but it was more of a shakedown cruise with my ridgerunner to prepare for a spring backpacking trip down to the smokies again.

    I'm a big guy, but I try to stay active with biking, hiking and frisbee golf. But the trails in the smokies don't tend to be very level (understatement), so I just suck it up and keep hiking. I try to hike at a speed where I don't feel exhausted and need to stop and catch my breath. I slow down on the uphills and vary my pace with the steepness of the trail and just keep going. I will stop for water, or to enjoy the view, or when the trail gets ridiculous.

    Getting permits for the smokies is no problem, you just have to log on to their website and set up your route and pay $4 per person per night. My problem was, I got my permit about 3 days before the government shutdown.... then got a friendly email from the park letting me know they were now closed. We were in process of making alternate plans to hike a section of the AT, but the government reopened, so my permit was still good. If you have any specific questions about route planning or permits in the smokies, feel free to PM me.

    I have spent quite a bit of time in the smokies over the last 15 years. During that time I have lived in Ohio and Indiana, so getting down there has always been a 7+ hour drive, but even with that obstacle I am getting pretty close to my goal of hiking all the trails in the park. Of the ~900 miles of trails in the park, I have about 170 miles of trail yet to hike. Hopefully I will get that done in the next few years.

    The problem is that we have hit all of the easy loop hikes and most of the high points in the park on our many backpacking trips. What is left is little bits of trail here and there, or parts of the park that aren't very easy to incorporate into a backpacking trip. The wonky figure 8 layout of our hike was done to try and incorporate different trails that we have not been on yet.... while also picking up favorite locations that we wanted to go back to again (like gregory bald and rocky top).

    @chuck, ewker
    Thanks for your kind comments. It was a really great trip with lots of good views and nice weather.

    @fireinmybones
    That pic on Lost Cove was a really special moment. That part of the trail was stupid steep and we were stopping quite a bit to catch our breath. At one of the stops, we all turned around and were just in awe of the sunlight filtering through the cloud we were walking through. Very cool.

  7. #7
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    Re: GSMNP 4 Night Hang, 5 Day Hike

    Great report! I love the Smokies, if you couldn't tell by my handle I'm quite envious. My wife, daughter and I were unable to make it down there this year; at all. We try to go at least once a year. Here is hoping for next year..

  8. #8
    Senior Member mad goat's Avatar
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    @SmokyMtnHiker
    I love your handle! I fell in love with the place on my first backpacking trip through there 15 years ago. My buddies and I discuss hiking other places, but we keep going back to the smokies.

    My family loves it down there too. My 2 boys have enjoyed hiking and playing in the creeks.... and fudge shops... and mini golf. We are hoping to go down there as a family over Christmas break, but we shall see.

    I see you are from East Central IL. I was born in Paris, IL and grew up right across the line just north of Terre Haute. Just got back that way a couple weekends ago for the covered bridge festival around Rockville, Indiana and a great dinner at The Beef House just across the line from Danville, IL.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by mad goat View Post
    @SmokyMtnHiker
    I love your handle! I fell in love with the place on my first backpacking trip through there 15 years ago. My buddies and I discuss hiking other places, but we keep going back to the smokies.

    My family loves it down there too. My 2 boys have enjoyed hiking and playing in the creeks.... and fudge shops... and mini golf. We are hoping to go down there as a family over Christmas break, but we shall see.

    I see you are from East Central IL. I was born in Paris, IL and grew up right across the line just north of Terre Haute. Just got back that way a couple weekends ago for the covered bridge festival around Rockville, Indiana and a great dinner at The Beef House just across the line from Danville, IL.
    If you were born in Paris, IL than you probably know Hume, IL. A buddy is from there. My father lives in Danville, IL aswell! Than as you know there is nothing like the Smokies when compared to the flat lands of crop fields where we are from

    My wife and I are really considering moving down to the Knoxville, TN area in the next few years. If not the next few years; our goal is to actually retire down around the Smokies. All be it many many years in the future

  10. #10
    Senior Member Fronkey's Avatar
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    Great trip report Mad Goat!

    Fronkey

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