I've finally come full circle - back to the camp chair!

[lmoseley7]

There is a thread or two on here asking how you became a hanger. I had forgotten what brought me to this website until I thought hard and determined that it was the end result of the search for a camp chair. Along the journey I came across alcohol stoves and ultimately hammocks and of course Grizz and Shug's videos. Recently a couple of threads came up about camp chairs. First was this one showing a production chair with one leg that was adjustable.
https://www.hammockforums.net/forum/...ad.php?t=79117

This was the second time I had seen the video for this product and I got the idea to use crutches to make the adjustable leg. Someone else on here had the same idea and put it into practice before I could get to it. When I went to pick up a set of crutches I noticed that walkers were the same price ($5) and came with 4 legs, not two. I love to get my money's worth, so I started with that. I constructed a chair using the walker legs as my post.



Along the same time threads were going on about the one-legged camp chair, Pipsissewa showed us how to make a camp chair using an inverted "A" shaped bracket.
https://www.hammockforums.net/forum/...ad.php?t=80367
I thought this was a great idea, but wanted to make something that was a little more permanent because where I camp if wood is on the ground, most likely it is rotten and I didn't want to have to cut a tree down every time I wanted to make a chair. I had ended up picking up some crutches anyway and thought I would try to build one out of the smaller tubing that make up the upper part of the crutch. Before I could make the metal version, I needed to make a wood version, so off my son and I went on a hike in the woods around home. Once I had cut the limbs to the correct size I found out how hard it is to lash sticks together and I knew that lashing smooth metal tubing would be even harder. So I decided to use some stainless steel bolts and wing nuts to attach the cross brace. I placed 5/8" dowel pieces inside the long braces at the point where the cross-brace is bolted in to strengthen the tubing at that point. For the tips that are placed into the ground I carved some oak so that I could insert it into the bottom of the tubing. I then drilled through the oak and placed a 6" nail through it. To keep the nail from pushing up into the legs, I welded a washer onto the nail at ground level. I stained the wood to help protect it against the ground and moisture. To tie the two legs together I made a bracket out of sheet metal that would slide over the wooden tips. Ultimately I may replace these with more 5/8" dowels sharpened to stick into the ground, but for now the nails work and take a lot less effort to press into the ground.

The frame weighs about 15.5 ozs. I haven't weighed it with the chair yet. Next will be a carrying case for the pieces. I was happily surprised at how stable this was. If anyone has any questions about how I put this together, let me know.

[Dutch]

That is really neat

[Pipsissewa]

WW!!! That looks really good! I know--these chairs are crazy-comfortable, right? I'm pleasantly surprised your frame weighs just fifteen and a half ounces---the exact same as my (uncomfortable) camp stool I lug around with me! Thanks for posting.


P.S.: How do you keep the webbing from sliding down the tubes? Do you think you could make a version with bolts and wing nuts that can be broken down for easier transport?

[Les Rust]

neat idea. Dutch has already seen it so the titanium version should be out by next week. Any way that the frame of the chair could be used as stays or part of a pack frame?

[lmoseley7]

That is really neat

Thanks Dutch!

WW!!! That looks really good! I know--these chairs are crazy-comfortable, right? I'm pleasantly surprised your frame weighs just fifteen and a half ounces---the exact same as my (uncomfortable) camp stool I lug around with me! Thanks for posting.

P.S.: How do you keep the webbing from sliding down the tubes? Do you think you could make a version with bolts and wing nuts that can be broken down for easier transport?

Great question. The ends of the tubing had a groove cut out of it where the part of the crutch that goes under your arm attached. I ran the mule tape through that groove and tied it off. This was a temporary fix. I'm considering having the groove go all the way through the tubing and place a piece of dowel with the same groove in the end. I'll try to add a picture of this to help explain. The issue with the current method is that it will eventually cut the mule tape. Other options I'm considering are placing a dowel in the end to tie off to or coating the ends with plasti-coat (rubberized paint). Also, the reason I used wing nuts was so it could be broken down.

neat idea. Dutch has already seen it so the titanium version should be out by next week. Any way that the frame of the chair could be used as stays or part of a pack frame?

It's funny you ask that because I've been trying to figure out a way to use my external frame on my backpack as part of a chair for years. I definitely think this could pull double duty that way, if one were so inclined.

By the way, I was worried about all the holes in the tubing being a weak spot for my almost 200lbs. I guess given the angle the force is more in line with the tubing and so far it has not been an issue. There wasn't any bowing in the tubing when I was in it. If a person was so inclined, you could use clevis pins and cotter pins instead of bolts and wing nuts to make set up and tear down quicker. It's also possible that you could use tent stakes to hold the cross-bar in place. Gravity would keep them from falling out.

Here's another tip: In the places that I put the oak dowels in the tubing, I used a nail punch to divot the tubing to hold the dowel in place.

[lmoseley7]

I just remembered that the weight of the adjustable pole that I made from the walker feet (in the first picture of the original post) is about the same as the new inverted "A" frame, maybe a little more. The mono-pole definitely packs up faster but the inverted "A" frame is pretty hard to beat from a comfort standpoint. I'll try to post weights of the two systems tonight. If anyone has any questions about how either was made, let me know.

[lmoseley7]

I'm just bumping this up in hopes that someone who might want to see it will. I mean I have the approval of Dutch on this chair, so that should count for something. I showed the pictures to a buddy of mine and he immediately responded, "Hey, I have a pair of crutches, want to make me one...or show me how anyway." Of course, I do.

I'd love to get some feedback from this group as I'm sure there are ways to improve the construction. Currently I'm considering using aluminum round stock in lieu of bolts and wing nuts to attach the cross brace. My plan is to bend a loop in the round stock and form a pin that can be inserted into the frame to hold it together. I'll employ some shock-cord to keep the pins from falling out, but I expect to make the holes only slightly larger than the round stock so hopefully friction and gravity will keep them in place.

The major area I'd like to address is where the uprights cross over at ground level. In my version I overcame this using the carved wooden inserts and nails welded to a washer to make ground stakes. My poles did not cross over therefore. This works but not everyone has access to a welder. I don't want to just bury the ends of the poles in the ground because the lack of surface area will cause them to slowly sink into the ground and fill up with soil. My original idea was to use sharpened hardwood dowel inserts and just overlap the tubes. I noticed that when doing so, one tube needs to be a little longer than the other so that they are the same length once they are sunk into the ground. It's probably not enough to worry with, but I'd like it to be even. The inserts would need to be treated to resist water damage. I'm probably going to work on some ideas I've had in this area and see how it goes.

The goal is to end up with a pretty bomb-proof chair that I'll be willing to take on camping trips. If only I could get the masses here to join in on the fun and get the idea gears turning, I'm sure collectively we could come up with the best solution. Well, here's to hoping that happens. Otherwise I'll just post a new thread when the final model is finished and see if that one catches any traction.

Happy Hanging!

P.S. I priced some Easton tubes from Quest Outfitters that could be purchased to make a chair like this one. With shipping it looked to be around $29. I'm at 1/2 of a $5 investment in crutches from the Salvation army with more pieces to play with. Add to it cloth, bolts and an oak dowel and I'm still at less than $10 for a chair. That's pretty nice in my book. Not sure how Quest's tubing could be much lighter than what I'm using.

[gmcttr]

My thoughts on what I would try next....

Through away the cross bar, cross the poles and use a single bolt to connect the two. Crossed poles (even without being connected) work well as evidenced here.

For the ground end points, smash the ends in a vise or with a hammer and cut them on an angle.......demonstrated here with PVC because I didn't have any aluminum tube I was willing to sacrifice...

IMG_4040 (Medium).JPG

The points would have to be oriented correctly for the "point" to hit the ground instead of the angled flat.

[lmoseley7]

My thoughts on what I would try next....

Through away the cross bar, cross the poles and use a single bolt to connect the two. Crossed poles (even without being connected) work well as evidenced here.

For the ground end points, smash the ends in a vise or with a hammer and cut them on an angle.......demonstrated here with PVC because I didn't have any aluminum tube I was willing to sacrifice...

IMG_4040 (Medium).JPG

The points would have to be oriented correctly for the "point" to hit the ground instead of the angled flat.

I think you may have something with the angled ends. I was trying to figure out how to make it come to a point, but that seems like a simple solution. I remember seeing your thread on your chair. Did you have no issues with the ends trying to squeeze together? The cross-bar does a good job of preventing this, but if I can eliminate it, that saves on weight.

Thanks for the input.

[gmcttr]

As I have mine set up, the forces are inline with the poles and they do not squeeze in on my legs. Different width chairs may (???) require different length poles. Mine is 54" long X 40" wide.

Here's some photos and dimensions in response to your PM.

IMG_4044 (Medium).JPG IMG_4046 (Medium).JPG IMG_4047 (Medium).JPG

Let me know if I missed anything or you have additional questions.