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  1. #21
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    Looks like a bridge hammock by technicality without the real lay-flat qualities of a bridge hammock. An interesting design, but comfortable?

    Bestbet would be to change up how you have the hammocks foot and head end attached to the spreader bars on either end. In order to get the flat bridge lay, you'll want to only attach the corners so the middle sags with therest of the hammock body and doesnt create the bathtub effect.
    Last edited by Hammonkey; 12-31-2013 at 11:25.

  2. #22
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    This is the rough sketch of what I am kind of thinking....

    could modify it so that instead of Cat cuts on the ends, you have triangles of solid fabric? then again, that may not work as well as I'd think...

    or would it be better if I put the spreader bars in their normal locations but maintain the box stitching? would this work for one? maybe not have the suspensions on the ends be as load bearing except for the two that connect the long sides to the tree....
    Attached Images Attached Images

  3. #23
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    CamoDeafie82,

    From what you are describing sounds like a Maverick Gear Hammock. I myself would not like to sleep in a bathtub style hammock as getting in and out would be a pain in the backside.

    Here's a link to the Maverick Gear Facebook page : https://www.facebook.com/MaverickGearAustralia

    Maverick Gear Pictures :






    Maverick Gear Vid

  4. #24
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    It looks like you are after the cot effect and the only way you're going to get it is to have a full "cot" frame in the bottom like the Maverick. If that's what your after but still want it in the air, sew the sides of a bridge hammock to it for the suspension.

  5. #25
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    without the full perimeter frame...the Maverick Gear is just what I am looking for, minus the long bars on the sides...... hmmm. this should be interesting.

  6. #26
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    Without the bottom lengthwise supports you would really have to crank down on the suspension. I am willing to bet you would still get the banana effect or rip it apart trying to get the suspension tight enough to get a flat lay. I foresee the bottom lengthwise sides trying to pull in as well ending up with you sinking even further into it. Just a guess and I could be wrong.


    ***Edit***

    Sorry for the crappy free hand drawing.

    1. Dotted line is with lengthwise supports in place keeping the bottom taught and solid line is when removed. ( sides pulling in when weight is applied ) ( top and bottom end spreader bars in place )
    2. Dotted line is with lengthwise supports in place keeping the bottom taught and solid line is when removed. ( bottom sinking when weight is applied also pulling the end in as well as applying more force on the suspension triangle ) ( top and bottom end spreader bars in place )
    Last edited by WickedKlown2; 01-01-2014 at 03:37.

  7. #27
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    guess I wasn't as clear... I'm thinking still only TWO, not four short end spreader bars, or 6 spreader bars with two lengthwise bars.....in essence, the same as a regular bridge but with the spreader bars on a lower level than is usual, hence the two additional catenary cuts, unless that would completely ruin the bridge effect? What I am kind of looking is for a bridge type, with light spreader bars, and a wider sleep platform than I am seeing from the DIY videos (most seem to be between 24 and 28 inches? or one CCF pad width, which while I can sleep on, is a little narrow for me); but with the constraints of 58-60" cut width materials....except for the fact there's a 10oz canvas outdoor gear material at 65"

  8. #28
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    Here are the dimensions for the GrizzBridge Rhino that is 74" in length ( head seam to foot seam ).

    Width at Head : 54"
    Spreader Bar Head : 36"
    Waist : 32"
    Width at Foot : 43"
    Spread Bar Foot : 26"
    Depth of Cat Cut : 7.4" midpoint ( between the 54" and 43" )

    ***edit***

    part one of making a GrizzBridge Rhino by GrizzlyAdams


    Shug on his GrizzBridge
    Last edited by WickedKlown2; 01-01-2014 at 04:44.

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by CamoDeafie82 View Post
    guess I wasn't as clear... I'm thinking still only TWO, not four short end spreader bars, or 6 spreader bars with two lengthwise bars........
    And I guess we're not being clear...without the top bars, the top closes in over you. Without the full lower frame, including the long lengthwise bars (or a sheet of plywood), the bottom curves down in both directions.

    Short version...it's not going to work as you envision it.

    I think the closest you will get is to use a normal low sided style, double layer bridge hammock with an inflatable pad between layers to widen it out a bit.

  10. #30
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    guess the Grizz Bridge Rhino model IS what I am looking for.... hey there's something to be said of all the information I am learning now....and there's always an excuse to experiment... lol so; the Rhino type will do me OK for a bridge type, and with possible integrated insulation...? no worries, I will make it so that should I need to, i can remove the insulation...hmm I DO like the Maverick Gear hanging cot design, if that is what people are calling it now....haven't found a wide enough cot frame that doesn't have hinges in the middle; but I do have a couple telescoping tent poles that extend out to 8 feet, and is made of aluminum...if i need to use them, I could. was going to use them collapsed at 48" as the spreader bars for the earlier spreader bar hammock design, that would have pockets for a dome tent frame for me to attach a bug-net over, kind of like the Lawson Blue Ridge all-in one aerial tent/hammock/cot
    Last edited by CamoDeafie82; 01-02-2014 at 20:11.

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