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  1. #1
    Senior Member bubba74's Avatar
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    Question attaching the lid...?

    Hi guys

    Last step before I get to sewing my down underquilt - yay!

    The basic idea I have is that I'll make a sort of a baking dish shape (very flat U shape) and add the fabric that will be snug against the hammock as a sort of lid to that.

    Also, I've almost convinced myself that I won't need a suspension channel along the quilt's length; it's a full length quilt, and I think that I can just do with tie-outs, shock cord and a same cordlocks. That way I'd still have a bit of flexibility as to where the quilt hangs but would avoid the weight of 4 meters of shockcord. The obvious drawback would be that this would place additional strain on the long seams of the quilt, so I'd need to inject the thread in such a way that it would strengthen the edge - preferrably without using grosgrain (= that would negate the weight savings...)

    Now on the the gist of the question... how would I attach the "lid" and close it off in such a way that the down stays put?

    I'm very visual, so if someone could point me to a picture I'd be grateful. I read about roll hems, but don;t really see how this would work here.

  2. #2
    Senior Member doogie's Avatar
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    All of the underquilts that I have seen made in the last 2 years have that construction. It's mostly called a differential cut. That means that the inner or top of the underquilt is not as wide as the outer or bottom of it. As far as adding a channel, I would just make your rolled hem large enough to accept cord if desired. It only takes a half inch more of fabric and adding one later would probably have to involve adding a grosgrain channel (pita and more weight). If you can get by without gaps on the sides without any cord in the sides then great, but if you get gaps then adding the cord is an easy deal.
    "Mountains should be climbed with as little effort as possible and without desire. ... To live only for some future goal is shallow. It’s the sides of the mountain that sustain life, not the top. Here's where things grow." - Robert M. Pirsig

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  3. #3
    Senior Member doogie's Avatar
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    There are a number of good underquilt posts here. Check the sticky thread of projects. Also I have a thread here with a lot of photos on my top quilt here check out my supplemental post #17 on how to form the corners. An underquilt is basically the same, except that normally the channels run the length of the quilt and not across, so they are filled from the end instead of the side.
    "Mountains should be climbed with as little effort as possible and without desire. ... To live only for some future goal is shallow. It’s the sides of the mountain that sustain life, not the top. Here's where things grow." - Robert M. Pirsig

    Subscribe to my YouTube channel: http://www.youtube.com/user/PaCampingDad

  4. #4
    Senior Member bubba74's Avatar
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    Hey doogie

    your post actually was one of the 2 that got me going with this The only thing I couldn't quite figure out from it was how you actually put the parts together. I mean, in a "normal", "sack" like construction, I would simply sew it inside out and then turn it right side out again. But with noseeum baffles coming into the equation that's obviously not going to work.

    Hence the question about how the top part would need to be attached without allowing down to escape. I can imagine something like a French hem or something with one end flipped over the other one for good measure - but then I might be taking things too far (wouldn't be the first time )

    All the posts seem to more or less say that you sew the baffle pieces into the bottom part, then add the top and go from baffle to baffle - but nobody I've seen seems to go into detail on how to attach the sides. Especially with me wanting to dispense with a full length channel that seems to be the trickiest part, though, as that takes a lot of strain when you get in and out of the hammock: with a channel, the quilt would just slide over the drawstring, but with end-point attachments it would pull tight and apply pressure there - which it needs to be able to absorb somehow.

    I understand that my explanation is a bit convoluted, but it's the best I can phrase it :-)

  5. #5
    Senior Member XTrekker's Avatar
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    You want to start at one end of the quilt and sew the first baffle to the inner shell with both sides rolled back and work your way to the last baffle, unrolling the fabric as you move from baffle to baffle. Be sure to triple check that you are indeed on the correct baffle. I have messed this up before and it was a total nightmare for me to fix. I basically got to the end before realizing I was a baffle short. Here is a few threads on some of the Top quilts and Under quilts that I have made. I am currently making my 2nd UQ at the moment. Shooting footage as I go along to help others who might be interested in making one. I know it's alittle late to share this but after calculating the cost of materials for the Quilt Shell, your might as well just order a shell from UnderQuilts.com and stuff the Down yourself. The only reason I havent done this myself is because I have so much fun making gear. I consider it my 2nd hobby.

    https://www.hammockforums.net/forum/...ad.php?t=79746

    https://www.hammockforums.net/forum/...ad.php?t=70761
    Attached Images Attached Images

  6. #6
    Senior Member doogie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by XTrekker View Post
    I know it's alittle late to share this but after calculating the cost of materials for the Quilt Shell, your might as well just order a shell from UnderQuilts.com and stuff the Down yourself. The only reason I havent done this myself is because I have so much fun making gear. I consider it my 2nd hobby.
    +1 on going the underquilts.com route. That's what I just did (I got the quilt shell and a pound of down for Christmas). First test tonight
    I enjoy making the gear as well, but this was just so easy and I got to do some work on it. Dave was super helpful and he made me a 7/8 underquilt shell for the same price as a 3/4.
    "Mountains should be climbed with as little effort as possible and without desire. ... To live only for some future goal is shallow. It’s the sides of the mountain that sustain life, not the top. Here's where things grow." - Robert M. Pirsig

    Subscribe to my YouTube channel: http://www.youtube.com/user/PaCampingDad

  7. #7
    Senior Member bubba74's Avatar
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    yep, getting stuff half finished and finishing it off is only half the fun. Learning is the best part of this Plus I had a couple of ides that I hadn't seen on other quilts and want to try out.

    the one thing that still escapes me is what kind of hem you guys use when fastening the top to the bottom part of the actual fabric. Not the noseeum, but the fabric. I know I can use a roll hem for a channel - but then again, I'm not after a channel but want to use tie out from which shock cord will be run.

  8. #8
    Senior Member doogie's Avatar
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    All nylon hems should be rolled hems to contain the fraying. The only difference is a rolled hem (normally used on tarps, stuff sacks, etc) is only using 1/4" for the first fold and 1/4" for the second fold, while a channel rolled hem (normally used for underquilts or the top of a stuff sack) uses 1/4" for the first fold and 3/4" for the second. Forming a channel. This might help.

    "Mountains should be climbed with as little effort as possible and without desire. ... To live only for some future goal is shallow. It’s the sides of the mountain that sustain life, not the top. Here's where things grow." - Robert M. Pirsig

    Subscribe to my YouTube channel: http://www.youtube.com/user/PaCampingDad

  9. #9
    Senior Member bubba74's Avatar
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    doogie, you're a hero! I've downloaded about all these shots from DIYGS - but missed EXACTLY this one. Typical. Doing research for months and then missing the essentials

    Thanks!

  10. #10
    Senior Member doogie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bubba74 View Post
    doogie, you're a hero! I've downloaded about all these shots from DIYGS - but missed EXACTLY this one. Typical. Doing research for months and then missing the essentials

    Thanks!
    No problem he has some great resources. Save that one for your first tarp too....I referenced the flat-felled one a bunch.
    "Mountains should be climbed with as little effort as possible and without desire. ... To live only for some future goal is shallow. It’s the sides of the mountain that sustain life, not the top. Here's where things grow." - Robert M. Pirsig

    Subscribe to my YouTube channel: http://www.youtube.com/user/PaCampingDad

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