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  1. #1
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    Bury Length for Fixed Eye

    When I made my UCRs, for some reason I went way overboard on the size of the fixed loop that goes over the toggle - right now it's about 5" in diameter. I made the loop with a locked brummel, and buried about 8" after the knot. This seems like overkill to me, and I want to reduce my minimum hang distance, so I'm wondering how much I can reasonably cut without making it unsafe. I'm thinking of making the loop 3" in diameter.

    My question is, how long do I need to make the bury? It seems to me like the locked brummel would carry most of the load. I saw a video on youtube where the guy sewed the bury; if I did that, could I reduce the length of the bury?

  2. #2
    Senior Member DRobertson's Avatar
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    locked brummel with a little bury should do just fine.

  3. #3
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    I recently made a set of UCRs from 7/64" Amsteel. I've only used them on two outings, but no problems so far. Here are the measurements I marked out:

    1" Taper
    5" Bury (in addition to the taper)
    6" Eye (for a 3" eye)
    2" Space between buries
    12" Adjustable Bury
    7" Prusik knot

  4. #4
    silentorpheus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JarrBear View Post
    When I made my UCRs, for some reason I went way overboard on the size of the fixed loop that goes over the toggle - right now it's about 5" in diameter. I made the loop with a locked brummel, and buried about 8" after the knot. This seems like overkill to me, and I want to reduce my minimum hang distance, so I'm wondering how much I can reasonably cut without making it unsafe. I'm thinking of making the loop 3" in diameter.

    My question is, how long do I need to make the bury? It seems to me like the locked brummel would carry most of the load. I saw a video on youtube where the guy sewed the bury; if I did that, could I reduce the length of the bury?
    I think you'd be better off going for a 2" fixed eye. Bury length should be 4-6" - 5" is a good compromise. Stitching it for added security certainly won't hurt.

    If I'm not mistaken, it's not really the brummel that supports the load, but rather the constriction of the rope around the buried section. The brummel mainly just prevents the buried end from pulling out.

    Take that all with a grain of salt, though.

  5. #5
    Senior Member old4hats's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by silentorpheus View Post
    I think you'd be better off going for a 2" fixed eye. Bury length should be 4-6" - 5" is a good compromise. Stitching it for added security certainly won't hurt.

    If I'm not mistaken, it's not really the brummel that supports the load, but rather the constriction of the rope around the buried section. The brummel mainly just prevents the buried end from pulling out.

    Take that all with a grain of salt, though.
    That is real good salt, use it generously.

  6. #6
    silentorpheus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by old4hats View Post
    That is real good salt, use it generously.
    I do tend to like my food overly salty …

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by silentorpheus View Post
    ...Bury length should be 4-6" - 5" is a good compromise. Stitching it for added security certainly won't hurt.

    If I'm not mistaken, it's not really the brummel that supports the load, but rather the constriction of the rope around the buried section. The brummel mainly just prevents the buried end from pulling out...
    For 7/64" amsteel, a 6" bury including 1" of taper is good.

    As stated, the intent of the locked brummel is to keep the bury from backing out under no load conditions and is not meant to add strength. It is the bury that does the work. Loose lock stitching is used to keep the bury from backing out under no load conditions when a plain brummel or no brummel is used to form the eye splice. Lock stitching also is not intended to add strength.

    Also, you only need enough space between the eye bury and the adjustable bury so they don't interfere with each other. 1/2" is plenty.

    If you are larks heading the UCR directly to the hammock, you can wrap it around twice (or through the channel twice) and "use up" the fixed eye bury there, so the adjustable bury is very close to the hammock end.

  8. #8
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    According to Sampson Rope, the bury length for a fixed eye should 2 1/4 fid lengths. A fid is usually 21-22 times the rope diameter. So...that comes out to about 5" if my math is correct.
    "...With saddle and pack, by paddle and track, let's go to the land of beyond."

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Passinthru View Post
    According to Sampson Rope, the bury length for a fixed eye should 2 1/4 fid lengths. A fid is usually 21-22 times the rope diameter. So...that comes out to about 5" if my math is correct.
    What he said...

  10. #10
    silentorpheus's Avatar
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    Basically the 8" you were using is more than you need. By Samson specs, you're looking at 4.57" or something like that (for 7/64 amsteel). So round it up to 5". Or go with 6" to be on the safe side - there isn't really a downside except that you shorten your minimum distance by a tiny bit. But you'll already be gaining a lot of that by moving away from 5" eyes and 8" buries.

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