Marlin Spike Straps

**iRokk** · 02-23-2014, 01:32

Originally Posted by cdburgess

That's a great idea Rob. So you use arrow shafts for your toggles? Any concerns with them being to small? Or do they work well for you?

I've been using arrow shaft toggles for a couple years, now, and I've never had a problem with them being too small or slipping or anything. The aluminum arrows, I recall seeing a post once about someone trying a carbon fiber shaft and it broke? I might be crazy, and it's been a while since I saw the post, but I thought that's what they said happened. I just get my toggles from the good folks at whoopieslings.com.

**gmcttr** · 02-23-2014, 01:57

Originally Posted by iRokk

...The aluminum arrows, I recall seeing a post once about someone trying a carbon fiber shaft and it broke?...

There have been many reports of the successful use of CF arrow shafts and many reports of the CF arrow shafts failing by crushing. They seem to work for some but not others.

**Aardvark** · 02-23-2014, 05:40

Aluminum arrow shafts, absolutely no issues ever (and I just use the web pocket to store the toggle, don't leave in there for the MSH, pink mason line tag tied on for visibility). Carbon fiber arrow shaft, however, collapsed on me, most probably cutting error on the toggle (small notch?). I tried to weigh CF against aluminum, CF was slightly lighter till a fly landed on the scale with it, then they weighed the same. Made up my mind.

**Boston** · 02-23-2014, 08:16

I melt a hole in the end of my straps with my soldering iron, drill a small hole in the toggle, and use mason line loops to connect them together. Never lose a toggle. Even with a pocket you could drop it, etc.

**Thumbs** · 02-23-2014, 10:28

Originally Posted by gmcttr

There have been many reports of the successful use of CF arrow shafts and many reports of the CF arrow shafts failing by crushing. They seem to work for some but not others.

My take on the reason some fail and others don't:
There are two methods for making carbon arrows.

1. Mandrel drawn CF. All the fibers of CF run in the same direction lengthwise. This gives great lengthwise strength and is good enough for arrows just barely. This is the cheapest method.

2. Mandrel drawn CF that is then wrapped with CF weave. These are the best and strongest arrows with good strength lengthwise and crush resistant. This method costs more and is the type we want for toggles.

*Some of the cheap arrow have a printed weave to look like they are the more expensive type.

**ezhiker** · 02-23-2014, 14:28

Thanks for that info, that explains why mine crushed when I tried the CF.

**Thumbs** · 02-23-2014, 14:48

That said, I think the diameter of a carbon arrow is small for a MSH and prefer something over 3/8".

**HammockBackpacker** · 02-23-2014, 18:21

Sounds like I have been over thinking it too much. This is the feedback I am looking for. I like the idea of the drilling a hole and using mason line. I also like the idea of the arrow shaft. I am going to look into that too.

**hikehunter** · 03-01-2014, 00:55

I found a destroyed wind chime at one of my rent properties. The aluminum tubes are about 3/16 by 4 in. they were pre-drilled. I used spider-wire (fishing line) to tie them to the straps. It does get a little tangled from time to time,but hey I got it at the best price......free.

**NMardin** · 03-01-2014, 18:43

A lot of it depends on the diameter rope you may be using for your suspension. CF toggles with Dynaglide don't work. I use my toggles on a closed loop with UCRs. I basically larks head the toggle in place and hang from that. CF isn't strong enough to withstand the pressure from such a teeny line. I use the CF toggles on bigger climbing rope indoors with no problems.
For my dynaglide UCRs I have small pieces of 1/4" titanium tubing. They work perfectly