We're all averse to paracord because justjeff has reported using it (cut straight from a parachute, nonetheless) and having it break on him.
We're all averse to paracord because justjeff has reported using it (cut straight from a parachute, nonetheless) and having it break on him.
Yea, mine used to weigh less, but I got tired of having "the perfect hanging spot" & my suspension being 3" - 4" too short. Now I can even hang from the monster trees atop Unaka Mt. I could take the biners off, but the 30 second set up time makes the weight worth it to me, so, , , , , , , , ,
When you have a backpack on, no matter where you are, you’re home.
PAIN is INEVITABLE. MISERY is OPTIONAL.
2 'biners
4 descending rings
12' strap (x2)
7.9 oz
What size (width) webbing??
That's less than 1/2 my setup's weight, so I'm guessing (after subtractind the extra 4' of length from my webbing) your webbing is 1/2 as wide as mine.
I could probably lessen mine, but as I said I like the length, & the width reduces the damage to the trees. Oh well.
When you have a backpack on, no matter where you are, you’re home.
PAIN is INEVITABLE. MISERY is OPTIONAL.
12 ft polypro straps, 1 inch and JRB Tri-glides.... 4.2 oz.
Pan
Ounces to Grams.
www.jacksrbetter.com ... Largest supplier of camping quilts and under quilts...Home of the Original Nest Under Quilt, and Bear Mountain Bridge Hammock. 800 595 0413
I thought about cutting 2' off each strap, but that saves only 2 Oz, so: Nevermind!
Also thought about going to 1" webbing, which I already have, but I like the 1.5" as I feel it does less damage to the trees, & the trees I hang from the most are MY TREES, so,,,,
OOOH! An Idea!!
I may go to the small webbing for Packing, since it's unlikely I'll hang from any 2 trees on the trail for more than 1 night, will have to see & think on it for a while.
When you have a backpack on, no matter where you are, you’re home.
PAIN is INEVITABLE. MISERY is OPTIONAL.
No problems w/ 550 cord. You can get it in any color you choose. I like the neon colors that are high-vis so that people dont trip over my guy lines. http://www.supplycaptain.com/index.c...category_ID=19
After much use and reflection and study, we decided that getting the hammock centered within less than 1" between the trees and with the suspension line angle off the tree within 1 degree wasn't really necessary.
TeeDee being the Physicist and Mathematician that he is, just naturally went that route when he developed the method. He likes to measure and get things JUST RIGHT.
Well, after much discussion, he finally realized that having the hammock centered within less than an inch wasn't really necessary and that if it was off by 6" to 12", so what? Well actually, it wasn't all that much discussion
Also, we sat down and examined the table and decided that if the hammock was off center by 6" and the suspension angle at the tree wasn't exactly known within 1 degree, then getting the slack in the suspension rope wasn't really all that critical either.
So given that we went back to the angle table, and decided that if we just used between 2" to 3" of slack, that was good enough.
So, we now just casually pace off the span and tie a bowline on one end for that distance.
Then go to the other tree and pull the suspension line tight so that it is horizontal. Now I don't mean really, ultra-tight using the most force possible. Just pull it tight with little sag. Then back off 2" to 3" and tie another bowline on that end with the end of the bowline loop at the selected spot in the rope.
On both bowlines, use a bight to go up out of the rabbit hole, around the tree and back into the rabbit hole. Makes tying the bowline easy and undoing it easy.
You mentioned that you were repositioning the toggles on the line.
You should never have to reposition the toggles. The only reason to reposition the toggles is to change the length of the ridge line not the position of the ridge line on the suspension line.
Using the above much abbreviated method, you will have the hammock centered as much as you want it and with the suspension line angle at the tree between about 25 degrees and 30 degrees. If you want more than 30 degrees, increase the slack let out to between 3" and 4".
If you want the hammock off center for any reason, just decide which end should be the shorter end and tie the bowlines such that that end has the shortest distance from a toggle to the tree.
So to summarize:
- pace off the distance, no need to be ultra-precise - we have always done this anyway to make sure that we have picked trees with a reasonable span.
- tie a bowline on one end so the end of the bowline loop is one-half the tree span from the middle of the rope,
- pull the suspension rope horizontal at the other tree, and
- let out 2" to 3" slack.
- tie bowline with selected spot at end of bowline loop,
- hang hammock from toggles.
We find this easy and quick and we don't have to struggle with the full weight of the hammock and any quilts, over covers or under covers while hanging the suspension line.
<soapbox> let's just remember to be nice to the trees... </soapbox>
I need to disassemble my old hammock to use the webbing for my new hammock, will weigh it to find out. when I do, after my exam. (Man! why am I on HF? going now...)
TH
my hammock gear weights total: 2430g (~86oz)
Winter: total 2521 (~89oz)
(see my profile for detailed weights)
gram counter, not gram weenie!
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