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  1. #11
    New Member Trebor's Avatar
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    Thanks everybody for your informative answers,

    I was asking about knots only, and until now I found larks head to be much more easily adjustable than figure8, and safe enough in this case, im suspended only 1 meter above the ground and have soft terrain underneath. What im investigating is the easiest knot to adjust without long term damage to the rope. I would like to avoid the rings method exactly for this reason.

    The Slipped Buntline Hitch looks very interesting, I will practice it today and use it tonight, my 3rd night hanging this season.

    Thanks again and please post any other suggestions you might have.
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  2. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by dougalcorn View Post
    No, if I put in the loop back I won't put in a back up. The loop back serves as a lock once the figure 8 has cinched down.

    I guess I don't understand the ways the figure 8 could fail that an extra overhand know would help. I read injury reports from time to time. I'm not sure I've heard of an injury from the figure eight failing. Maybe someone can help me understand the risks better.
    Once a figure eight is loaded the safety does nothing. A loosely tied figure 8 could slip until the safety pulled it tight. I have never seen it happen either, but I still tie them on.

  3. #13
    New Member Apis's Avatar
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    My understanding of dyneema line is that knotting really negatively affects it's breaking strength. Moreso than other line type/material. I avoid knots in it and prefer using kern/mantle line and braided poly instead for knotted lines.
    Transportation for Hiram Farm

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  4. #14
    Senior Member dougalcorn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nodust View Post
    Once a figure eight is loaded the safety does nothing. A loosely tied figure 8 could slip until the safety pulled it tight. I have never seen it happen either, but I still tie them on.
    Let me see if I understand. The risk is that unloaded, the free end could slip out of the eye and significantly compromise the knot. The extra overhand knot in the free end would largely prevent it from slipping out.

  5. #15
    Member Birch's Avatar
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    this should work.
    "Nothing could be more irrational than to give the people power and to withhold from them information, without which power is abused. A people who mean to be their own governors must arm themselves with the power which knowledge gives. A popular government without popular information or the means of acquiring it is but a prologue to a farce or tragedy, or perhaps both." - James Madison

  6. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by dougalcorn View Post
    Let me see if I understand. The risk is that unloaded, the free end could slip out of the eye and significantly compromise the knot. The extra overhand knot in the free end would largely prevent it from slipping out.
    Yes. I am in industrial rescue so we may have different practices from climbing or wilderness rescue.

  7. #17
    Senior Member Firesong's Avatar
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    When I took the different courses , industrial abseiling and rescue the extra knot only got the excess out of the way. Some how it became 'safer' in the climbing gyms. There's no way a tail end will come free and loose on a snugged up fig 8 knot.

  8. #18
    New Member Trebor's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Apis View Post
    My understanding of dyneema line is that knotting really negatively affects it's breaking strength. Moreso than other line type/material. I avoid knots in it and prefer using kern/mantle line and braided poly instead for knotted lines.
    Is the stock rope that comes with the Explorer deluxe dyneema or spectra?
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  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trebor View Post
    Is the stock rope that comes with the Explorer deluxe dyneema or spectra?
    The Hennessy website says the rope is polyester core and cover with a 2700 lbs tensile strength, so speaking in very general terms as it varies by knot, knots will reduce the strength about 30-35% vs a 66% reduction for amsteel (dyneema).

    In other words...you're good.

  10. #20
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    FWIW at least part of the problem with dyneema based rope is the tight bend radius under high load because smaller line is used. Once one moves to hitches around a larger diameter object the problem decreases. I suspect that is why Hennessy seems to stick with spectra for the smaller rope and good polyester for the regular rope.

    I would use a clove hitch before the double larks head and that before I would go to the figure 8 loop. Put a slippery half hitch on as a keeper.

    FWIW2. When I went to climbing school in the early 80's they got upset when I put a half hitch keeper on a clove hitch. Their thought was it was not needed. Nobody put anything on a figure 8. Interesting how things change.

    The figure 8 keeper still does not make sense to me but I seldom do a clove hitch without one. ;-)
    YMMV

    HYOH

    Free advice worth what you paid for it. ;-)

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