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  1. #1
    Senior Member miyanc's Avatar
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    Sewing tree straps.

    I am almost set to start sewing my straps. I am only putting one loop in one side, and maybe a small loop on the other side to sew in something to attach a toggle to but nothing load baring.

    My questions is how much overlap?
    Box with an x in the middle or lines?

    I have 2 machines, one is a singer 15-91 and the other is a singer zig zag 476. Do I go 15-91 short stitched or the 476 and do I tight zigzag?

    Thanks in advance.

  2. #2
    Banned
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    There are several threads on this topic every year and various stitch patterns have been tested under load by serious mountain/rock climbers where they are more than 2 feet off the ground. I lost the link to that but Google around at HF etc and you should find several.
    Basically one of the best patterns is a small zigzag bar-tack about 4 times perpendicular to the length of the strap.
    My guess is that 2" overlap would hold but i prefer 4", my concern is that a thread will get torn and a bar-tack will fail so 4 bar-tacks are my personal minimum. I occasionally multipurpose them for holding bow/stern of a kayak to car, or pull a stump out so the full 500 to 2000 lbs is preferred depending on the strap material.
    If you use a wench or some other device to test some out you most likely will find that the strap breaks at some point where it is NOT overlapping and stitched. My conclusion: multiple bar-tacks to avoid single point failure.

    Some Testing Results:
    http://www.caves.org/section/vertical/nhback/NH03.pdf
    page 11, fifth pattern over is my personal favorite due to combo of
    strength and redundancy.

    Some webbing testing results about 3/4 down report:
    http://www.bethandevans.com/load.htm

    a previous thread:
    https://www.hammockforums.net/forum/...-webbing-loops

    My personal observation is that the long zigzag pattern more parallel to the length of the strap may be stronger but it lacks the redundancy of the shorter multiple (possibly zigzag patterns) in tight bar-tack patterns that run perpendicular to the strap's length and the strap will not break here anyway. Either the stitching will come out or the strap will break just after the stitching or along a single layer somewhere else where it was abraded, frayed, excessive UV damage, squirrel, etc. Of coarse if you sew excessive thread into the webbing this will weaken it and could cause it to rip right there at the stitching, as with anything common sense rules the day.
    Last edited by ntxkayakr; 05-12-2014 at 09:19. Reason: added links

  3. #3
    Senior Member Jtupnsmoke's Avatar
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    I have some with bar tacks and some with a box and X in the middle. I have yet to have a failure with either. I think it's more important to check your stitches every so often. I found a burned spot just at the end of the loop where I burned the loose ends and must have left it on too long. Could have been a painful failure had I not found it.

  4. #4
    Senior Member MAD777's Avatar
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    I overlap 2" and sew several lines straight up & down the strap.
    Several years sgo, a test of half dozen stitching patterns was done and this one won.
    Mike
    "Life is a Project!"

  5. #5
    Senior Member miyanc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MAD777 View Post
    I overlap 2" and sew several lines straight up & down the strap.
    Several years sgo, a test of half dozen stitching patterns was done and this one won.
    do you or any one have a pic of this? so it looks like the 476 would be best.

  6. #6
    Senior Member swoody126's Avatar
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    is this the chart you are looking for?



    don't remember where i stole it, it aint my work

    sw
    "we are the people our parents warned us about" jb

    steve

  7. #7
    Senior Member Zilla's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by miyanc View Post
    I am almost set to start sewing my straps. I am only putting one loop in one side, and maybe a small loop on the other side to sew in something to attach a toggle to but nothing load baring.

    My questions is how much overlap?
    Box with an x in the middle or lines?

    I have 2 machines, one is a singer 15-91 and the other is a singer zig zag 476. Do I go 15-91 short stitched or the 476 and do I tight zigzag?

    Thanks in advance.
    Send a pm to rsgary from readystraps.com,he sews these everyday for a living and will help you out..

  8. #8
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    My blackbirds have come with bar tacks and are good to 400lb. I made a pair of my own last night and also used bar tacks, although I doubled the overlap and the number of stitches compared to the blackbird straps. I trust Warbonnet's sewing more than my own. The ones Dutch sells also appear to have bar tacks from the picture on his site.

  9. #9
    Senior Member Rain Man's Avatar
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    I used to be a vertical caver in a prior life (B.C. Before Children) and put a lot of faith in the National Speleological Society studies on www.caves.org. In fact, I put my life and my wife's life in the safety of that research. (That's the first link in post #2 below.) We weren't hanging 18" above soft ground, but 100' above a pile of boulders. I do some bar-tacking and X-stitching, but that's only in addition to the long parallel zigs.

    Rain Man

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    "You can stand tall without standing on someone. You can be a victor without having victims." --Harriet Woods

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  10. #10
    Senior Member Ramblinrev's Avatar
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    I'm not a fan of the zigzag stitch when sewing loops. I prefer the lengthwise straight stitches running 3x the width of the webbing. Here's my reasoning. The zigzag stitch is a "poor man's" stretch stitch. It is made to allow the most stretch in the fabric by allowing for longer stitch spans and looser tension in the seam so things move easier. Longer stitches are more apt to break under tension and looser stitches are more apt to wear. This is the case regardless of the orientation of the stitch t the grain. So a straight stitch running with the grain allows the tightest strongest attachment. The above diagrams seem to show straight stitches used to make the strongest joins. This reasoning applies _only_ flat, non-stretch webbing which is the preferred material for suspension straps. Nylon, and stretch climbers webbing may need a different set of dynamics. That discussion is beyond my knowledge base.
    I may be slow... But I sure am gimpy.

    "Bless you child, when you set out to thread a needle don't hold the thread still and fetch the needle up to it; hold the needle still and poke the thread at it; that's the way a woman most always does, but a man always does t'other way."
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