Sewing issues

[miyanc]

I could have posted this in the post I using for my project, but I wanted a quicker reply.

I have a singer 476( which shouldnt matter I think its just a general issue) and I am making tree straps and soon hammocks. I am using guttermans not sure which one but it wss purchased on diy's site so it is one of 2. I think its the more multipurpose variety (again I dont thik thats the issue). When I start sewing I get going and the thread gets stuck in the tensioner and brakes. Now I have it on a high number because its tree straps but its on 8ish maybe 9. I had run it a few times on lower numbers until the birds nest stopped showing up. I did not take this one apart. I did on my 1591. Before I do I thought I woukd ask. I am currently taking a peppa pig brake. I am going to check and make sure I am putting the thread in the right slot. I believe it has happened in at least 2 places (I am pretty sure I have had it happen and tried a different slot).

Btw for as long as it works (maybe 6 inches, or back and forth) it makes perfect stitches.

Thanks in advance. I know I make this diy stuff look easy.

[Mouseskowitz]

I'm far from being an expert, but here are my thoughts. What size needle are you using and is it fairly new, i.e. only a couple hours use on it? For webbing the recommendation seems to be a needle size in the 14-16 range. Also, don't underestimate the power of a new needle. Not everyone realizes that a needle's life span in only around 6-8 hours.

[miyanc]

I'm far from being an expert, but here are my thoughts. What size needle are you using and is it fairly new, i.e. only a couple hours use on it? For webbing the recommendation seems to be a needle size in the 14-16 range. Also, don't underestimate the power of a new needle. Not everyone realizes that a needle's life span in only around 6-8 hours.

Brand new needle size 16, but its not that. The thread is physically stuck in the tensioner. I looked at the tensioner and I could see there was an issue. The process is suppose to let you turn the dial to tighten or lessen the pressure. I could see the part that was suppose to be up against the plates the thread, was not touching. So I took is apart. This machine had another issue that seemed to stem from someone messing with it. I am working on putting it back together. I know how it was, but I am not sure that was the right way. I am looking for the right way. From what I saw there is a pin or rod inside the bolt that is attched to the frame. This is what everything is attached to. That pin seems to stop the plastic dial from getting up against the plates.

[Ramblinrev]

When the thread breaks is it worn and frayed before the break? If so I suspect the tension plates are worn and fraying the thread making it weak enough to break. Try lowering the tension some and see if it performs better. You may have to have the plates replaced or resurfaced.

[miyanc]

When the thread breaks is it worn and frayed before the break? If so I suspect the tension plates are worn and fraying the thread making it weak enough to break. Try lowering the tension some and see if it performs better. You may have to have the plates replaced or resurfaced.

The plates appear fine. Smooth. Maybe the tension is to much. I will put it back together and check. I got to this point because of the bird nesting. I will revisit the tension. This pin appears to stick out to far tho. Making a gap between the plates and the plastic disc you turn to tighten.

[miyanc]

I put it together and made some adjustments. Undid and redid it until I maybe, maybe got it to work. I was able to run thru several lines without issues. I am going to give it a go on another tree strap. This one looks like a cubscouts fishing line.

[VictoriaGuy]

When the presser foot is lifted, the tensioner is opened (so you can pull out slack thread and get your work out of the machine).
With some machines, putting thick webbing under the presser foot will release the tension and you will get 'birdsnests'.
You can easily test this without sewing..just pull on the thread coming out of the tensioner, and see when the tension is applied as you lower the presser foot.

Just a thought....

[miyanc]

When the presser foot is lifted, the tensioner is opened (so you can pull out slack thread and get your work out of the machine).
With some machines, putting thick webbing under the presser foot will release the tension and you will get 'birdsnests'.
You can easily test this without sewing..just pull on the thread coming out of the tensioner, and see when the tension is applied as you lower the presser foot.

Just a thought....

In a way thats how I fixed it (at least I think I did). I pulled on the thread and turned the adjuster until I felt it was just. I also fixed an issue with the adjuster. Either tonight or tomorrow I will give a long run and see if its done.

[gmcttr]

...From what I saw there is a pin or rod inside the bolt that is attched to the frame. This is what everything is attached to. That pin seems to stop the plastic dial from getting up against the plates.

When the presser foot is lifted, the tensioner is opened (so you can pull out slack thread and get your work out of the machine).
With some machines, putting thick webbing under the presser foot will release the tension and you will get 'birdsnests'.
You can easily test this without sewing..just pull on the thread coming out of the tensioner, and see when the tension is applied as you lower the presser foot.

Just a thought....

Yep. It's that rod that releases the tensioner when the presser foot is lifted.

When sewing webbing it's easy to get the birdsnest on the underside, especially if you do something like turn the handwheel backwards 1/4 turn at the wrong time.

Is the webbing from Dutch or DIY Gear Supply? The batch Dutch had a couple of months ago was an extremely tight weave and more difficult to sew. I ended up using a #18 needle just to help open it up.

I also suggest using your Singer 15-91. It is designed to be able to handle heavier materials. Practice on an extra piece of webbing until you get it right.

[miyanc]

Yep. It's that rod that releases the tensioner when the presser foot is lifted.

When sewing webbing it's easy to get the birdsnest on the underside, especially if you do something like turn the handwheel backwards 1/4 turn at the wrong time.

Is the webbing from Dutch or DIY Gear Supply? The batch Dutch had a couple of months ago was an extremely tight weave and more difficult to sew. I ended up using a #18 needle just to help open it up.

I also suggest using your Singer 15-91. It is designed to be able to handle heavier materials. Practice on an extra piece of webbing until you get it right.

Yes its from dutch. Very tight weave. 16 is the biggest I have at this time.
So I started today and figured I would make a long box and put the zig zag in the box. When I started I didnt reverse the stitch by mistake. I ran down the lenth of the strap and the stitches were perfect. So I finished the box with a reverse. Took it out cut the thread and admired my work. So every thing is going to work out... well it would be me if it did. I get set up and start the zig zag in the box and did the reverse lock stitch and ran back and forth all the way to the end and lock stitched. I pull it out and cut the stitch and the under part of the stitching it extended out of the bottom. Not a birds nest but very loose threads.
I am going to run the bobbin on the 476 to use on the 1591. I had some issues with that yesterday. I figured since I had enough bobbin set up for the 476 I would just use that one. The 476 was also portable so I could bring it to where my daughter was playing. I will wait until nap time and fire up the 1591. I also thought about taking a tree strap break and switch over to the hammocks. I cant wait until I figure out all new sets of problems with that. I am sure those will all run smoothly.