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  1. #571
    Senior Member ikemouser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SGT Rock View Post
    5 grams per side. The UCRs are 4' long, the WSs are a little shorter than that.

    So for my SUL hammock I'm working with now it is Nano7 @ 4.91 ounces with homemade Dynaglide USRs at 0.35 ounces, arrow toggles at 0.07 ounces, 550 cord skins to protect the hammock from possible saw through by the Dynaglide UCRs at 0.28 ounces, and two tree huggers at 1.48 ounces (4.5' long). That is 7.10 ounces total for the hammock for my SUL test.

    I have done some test hangs and don't notice any more sag in the hammock than it already had with other suspension lines that were on it. I've found that the limit of the hang is about 14' between trees if the toggles have to be next to the trees. If I find skinnier trees and can use the length of the huggers I can get probably up to 20' between trees before I hit the limit.

    I've made four stakes at 4 grams each - so 0.57 ounces for four stakes. I'm hoping to get one of counselor's Cuben Tarps before I do my test trip with the rig in May. I figure with lines it should be around 6 ounces max. I've also got a 0.88 ounce head nett for possible bugs. So total rig should be about:

    7.10
    +0.57
    +6.00
    +0.88
    14.55 ounces

    The only thing I think I could go lighter on is if I could make a hammock out of Cuben fiber and save a couple of ounces, and go with a bare minimal tarp. But I'd rather not.
    to all those who say hammock can't be as light as tents, think again.

  2. #572
    all secure in sector 7 Shug's Avatar
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    I am impressed Sergeant Rock .... man that is mighty fine.
    Shug
    Whooooo Buddy)))) All Secure in Sector Seven

  3. #573
    Senior Member
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    I need a little help. My taper doesn't seem to taper much. As such it gets bound up at the insertion point and won't go in. I've tried two nights and gotten only frustration(and shorter ropes) both nights.

    Thanks.

    Jbo

  4. #574
    Senior Member opie's Avatar
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    jbo.. a couple solutions.

    The first is do the taper after you run the bury. Yes this can be difficult, but it is possible.

    The second... if you taper prior to burying, you need to

    A: dont cut the strands off tight to the cord. Leave about 1/8 sticking out. This will prevent, or help prevent, the cord from coming undone.

    B: Whatever you are using to do your buries, you need to grab the cord anywhere from the middle of the taper to to point at which the taper meets the full diameter cord.

    In my experiences, Ive found its easier to do the taper after the bury. You can also do your taper and wrap the end with masking tape. Make sure you roll it up tight and then the tape will be stiff enough you can use that as your taper tool.

  5. #575
    Senior Member
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    Thanks, Opie. Maybe I am missing the terminology. I hough the taper was so you could do the bury to begin with. No?

    Jbo

    ps. What do y'all cut amsteel with? I have a heck of a time. - afraid to use my good scissors.

  6. #576
    Senior Member opie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jbo_c View Post
    Thanks, Opie. Maybe I am missing the terminology. I hough the taper was so you could do the bury to begin with. No?

    Jbo

    ps. What do y'all cut amsteel with? I have a heck of a time. - afraid to use my good scissors.
    The taper is there to prevent a sudden change in cord diameter. Its an integral part of the bury, not a solution to get the bury started.

    LOL.... Use good scissors. Ive tried several different types.. Mostly Fiskars.

    The set thats really lasting for me now I picked up at Staples. I cant find them on their site.. But they are Westcott ExtremeEdge Titanium.

    Found a link...

    http://www.pronto.com/compare/westco...rs-11500109052

  7. #577
    Senior Member TinaLouise's Avatar
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    Question: this is about the whipping that's done on the brummel locked eye end. Is the whipping (or using thread to whip around the rope) just to keep the end of the rope inside?? More or less just to make sure that it doesn't manage to work it's way back out?? And my main question, does this whipping have anything to do with keeping the brummel "locked" so that your rope doesn't slip and put you on the ground during the night.

    I'm wanting to know if I NEED to do that whipping or if the eye is securely locked without it.

    TinaLouise

  8. #578
    Senior Member opie's Avatar
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    Tina, the locked brummell and stitching are 2 different things. If you stitch, you don't need to worry about a Brummel. If you use the locked brummel, you don't need to stitch.

    They both serve the same purpose of keeping the bury tail from pulling out. The brummel also carries some of the load.

  9. #579
    Senior Member mtncmpr's Avatar
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    .

    Quote Originally Posted by opie View Post
    Tina, the locked brummell and stitching are 2 different things. If you stitch, you don't need to worry about a Brummel. If you use the locked brummel, you don't need to stitch.

    They both serve the same purpose of keeping the bury tail from pulling out. The brummel also carries some of the load.

    Hmmm... I didn't realize that. Thanks for the FYI

    .
    ...And then one day you find, ten years have got behind you.
    No one told you when to run, you missed the starting gun... "TIME" by Pink Floyd

    www.linvillegorge.net -Ken's site

    www.heavens-above.com -(set your own "home" site)

  10. #580
    Senior Member Knighthorse's Avatar
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    I suppose this is my entry in the "mini-whoopie-sling" category. Weekend, slow night and just a teensy bit bored.
    Attached Images Attached Images

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