Whoopie Sling Suspension

**jaydweight** · 05-18-2010, 15:41

Originally Posted by Truehart

Two questions:

1) If you were to put the loop on a bend, such as a pulley, would you then, essentially, be distributing your load on two parrallel lines? Thus splitting the average load of about 600# in your suspension to 300#/line?

2) Where can I find Amsteel Blue? Can I find it in hardware stores or is this camping/backpacking specific where I'll probably need to order it online?

I ordered it from Paul at http://arrowheadequipment.webs.com/a...s/show/1076490 he's really quick. Amsteel is sweet!

**woodstock64** · 05-18-2010, 18:38

Truehart, I picked up my Amsteel (red) at West Marine. They didn't stock the 7/64 or 1/8. I had to order it. They can order as much or as little as you need. BTW all the colors are the same.

**BillyBob58** · 05-18-2010, 18:59

I have been using the Whoopies more lately. They really are a pleasure to use. And so light and compact. I've been using sticks as toggles.

But has this been mentioned(surely it has): One drawback- you need longer distance between the trees? To make up for the 10" or so of bury on each end? So, you need an 20" distance between trees total?

I have not really noticed this in the woods, more with my hammock stand, where I like to have the uprights as close as possible, easier to stay above the ground.

**nogods** · 05-18-2010, 19:20

Originally Posted by BillyBob58

I have been using the Whoopies more lately. They really are a pleasure to use. And so light and compact. I've been using sticks as toggles.

But has this been mentioned(surely it has): One drawback- you need longer distance between the trees? To make up for the 10" or so of bury on each end? So, you need an 20" distance between trees total?

I have not really noticed this in the woods, more with my hammock stand, where I like to have the uprights as close as possible, easier to stay above the ground.

Yeah, I had trouble testing my first set of whoppie slings with my hammock stand because there is only 15 feet between the tie on points. But I usually hang in the woods between 20 to 25 feet so it won't be problem.

**ikemouser** · 05-18-2010, 20:28

I am laying in my right now via hammock stand. To compensate for the distance double or triple wrap your larks head atbthehammock end and usevan adjustable ridge line.

**Truehart** · 05-19-2010, 09:22

Thanks jaydweight and woodstock64. I actually have a West Marine nearby. I got on their website and looked up their Amsteel. They say that it has a core construction of Dyneema SK-75. I thought Amsteel was hollow. If I remove the core is it going to significantly lower the breaking strength? Or am I reading it wrong?

Also, it seems that people are avoiding my first question

. The main reason I’m asking is that both answers I can come up with seem logical. First, yes, the splice essentially makes two parallel cords with the loop that then transition to having one inside the other with the load being evenly distributed across both.

Second answer, no, even though the loop creates two parallel cords it essentially becomes one cord when it transitions to the splice because of how the splice distributes the load. Thus, the sling can only be expected to hold a little less than what a single cord is rated for.

Ultimately, I want to know so I can see if you can use a cord that’s rated for something like 400#. If the splice distributes the load evenly across the full length of the sling, then you could use something rated significantly less than Amsteel. If not, then you can’t. Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

**GrizzlyAdams** · 05-19-2010, 10:05

Originally Posted by Truehart

Thanks jaydweight and woodstock64. I actually have a West Marine nearby. I got on their website and looked up their Amsteel. They say that it has a core construction of Dyneema SK-75. I thought Amsteel was hollow. If I remove the core is it going to significantly lower the breaking strength? Or am I reading it wrong?

Amsteel is woven of 12 or 8 strands of Dyneema SK-75, depending on whether it is 7/64" (8 strands) or larger (12 strands). There is no core to remove. The woven strands are the whole show.

Also, it seems that people are avoiding my first question

. The main reason I’m asking is that both answers I can come up with seem logical. First, yes, the splice essentially makes two parallel cords with the loop that then transition to having one inside the other with the load being evenly distributed across both.

Second answer, no, even though the loop creates two parallel cords it essentially becomes one cord when it transitions to the splice because of how the splice distributes the load. Thus, the sling can only be expected to hold a little less than what a single cord is rated for.

A rope system is only as strong as its weakest point. In your system you have spots bearing all the load where there is only one cord. Choose Door #2.

Ultimately, I want to know so I can see if you can use a cord that’s rated for something like 400#. If the splice distributes the load evenly across the full length of the sling, then you could use something rated significantly less than Amsteel. If not, then you can’t. Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

Use it? Sure you can use it. Bear bag, ridgeline, ....
Suspension? Not me. Rule of thumb---take rating of cord and divide by AT LEAST 5 to get a safe margin. So I stick with cord rated 1000 lbs or more. I love my butt.

**Truehart** · 05-19-2010, 10:36

Originally Posted by GrizzlyAdams

Amsteel is woven of 12 or 8 strands of Dyneema SK-75, depending on whether it is 7/64" (8 strands) or larger (12 strands). There is no core to remove. The woven strands are the whole show.

Ok, that's what I was thinking when I first started reading. I just didn't know what the material was called. Thanks for clearing that up.

A rope system is only as strong as its weakest point. In your system you have spots bearing all the load where there is only one cord. Choose Door #2.

Use it? Sure you can use it. Bear bag, ridgeline, ....
Suspension? Not me. Rule of thumb---take rating of cord and divide by AT LEAST 5 to get a safe margin. So I stick with cord rated 1000 lbs or more. I love my butt.

Sound advice on both counts. I love my butt, as well, and my head, back...

Thanks again.

**Truehart** · 05-21-2010, 14:18

O.K., I’ve finally read through the entire thread *keels over* That’s a lot of reading. I still haven’t had the time to watch the videos, but plan to. Sorry for posting before I’d finished, but I needed to get my shopping list in order. Thanks to all who have commented and posted ideas as well as those that produced the math and physics that made even my head spin for a bit (and I’m a mechanical engineer). I’ve got my HHs on the way and they’ll be here on Monday. My Amsteel will be here Wednesday. I’m getting ready to make a trip to Harbor Freight and/or Lowes to do some shopping. Once again, I have questions.

1) I’ve seen a couple ways to do the toggles that I like. Two of them being in TeeDee’s picture here http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery...&imageuser=226 , specifically #1919 and 1921. Also, someone posted a pic of them using a carabiner for a toggle of sorts, but instead of it actually being a toggle that sits outside of the loop it was more like a bar used to connect two loops where the loops were wrapped around it and pulling perpendicularly across the bar. I can’t seem to find that pic now. Which method is better? I’m having trouble “wrapping” my brain around how the forces are being distributed using the different toggle setups.

EDIT: Here's what I was referring to

Originally Posted by gargoyle

Attachment 4900

Attachment 4901I posted this one whoopie thread ,but it could apply here, too.
I used a biner to replace toggle, and then use biner to hang stuff from.

2) This is kind of a question for Frawg, but anyone is welcome to answer. In your WS you put a toggle on your fixed end. http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery...php?i=6401&c=3 Is it better to bury the “loose end” (the end that goes around the toggle) back into the “working end” or is it better to bury the “working end” into the “loose end”?

3) Has anyone had any problems with spraying bug spray on your WSs (i.e. premature degradation) I just don't want the little critters crawling down my suspension.

Thanks so much in advance.

-Truehart

**krugd** · 05-31-2010, 08:21

Originally Posted by Truehart

2) This is kind of a question for Frawg, but anyone is welcome to answer. In your WS you put a toggle on your fixed end. http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery...php?i=6401&c=3 Is it better to bury the “loose end” (the end that goes around the toggle) back into the “working end” or is it better to bury the “working end” into the “loose end”?

I have always buried the free end into the working end.

3) Has anyone had any problems with spraying bug spray on your WSs (i.e. premature degradation) I just don't want the little critters crawling down my suspension.

Thanks so much in advance.

-Truehart

I believe this was answered in another post. The answer was that it was done and that no degradation was expected. (at least with permithin) Hopefully someone will jump in with the full answer, as I don't spray mine and didn't really pay attention.