So I'm not having much luck searching the forums to find out what we should be using as the number of stitches per inch we should be using when sewing the different materials. Does anyone have any guidance to offer?
Thanks..
So I'm not having much luck searching the forums to find out what we should be using as the number of stitches per inch we should be using when sewing the different materials. Does anyone have any guidance to offer?
Thanks..
“The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men should do nothing.”
- Edmund Burke
I usually use 6-8 for most projects.
My head is an animal
I heard someone explain 8-10 is optimal based on a shorter stitch length acts to perforate the sylnylon for tarps, weakening it with an easier place to tear. Sadly, I have not made my first hammock or tarp yet so don't go by me, and, have looked up DIY hammocks and tarps so often have no idea who I heard say it or where. Next? I too would very much like some guidance on stitch length. For these projects:
Crinkle tablecloth hammock
Argon 1.6 hammock
Bug net
And someday, sylnylon tarp
Thanks!
6 is considered 'basting' stitch. It's meant for when you're either going to be gathering or easing seams. It's not a terribly strong stitch length to use BUT it is easy to take out if you've made a goof. Useful for when you're just tacking something together so it doesn't slide apart on you when you go to do the regular stitch line.
10 to 12 is more in line with a regular stitch length that is good for most of the fabrics used for gear.
By the time you've hit 15 it's overkill. Used it for bar-tacking so that the stitches are really close together. If you use it for regular sewing, you'll find it's kinda slow and there's more chance that fabrics under stress with degrade along the stitch line because the needle holes are too close together.
I aim for 8-10 in most lightweight materials...leaning more toward 8.
What The Old Boot said.
We need to confuse the issue slightly here. Older machines can feature one of two calibration systems. American machines are calibrated in stitches/inch while european/japanese machines are calibrated by the length of the stitch in millimeters. So if you have a machine which dials between 4-12 or so it is most likely stitches/inch where the low number is the longer stitch. If your machine is calibrated from 1- 6 or so and the high numbers are longer, then you are looking at the mm/stitch length. In either event, somewhere mid range is a good starting place for stitch length. However, there are times when you might want to use a longer stitch length or a shorter stitch length depending on the application. There are no hard and fast "rules". You will find what you like to use when you play around.
I may be slow... But I sure am gimpy.
"Bless you child, when you set out to thread a needle don't hold the thread still and fetch the needle up to it; hold the needle still and poke the thread at it; that's the way a woman most always does, but a man always does t'other way."
Mrs. Loftus to Huck Finn
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Good info here!
Thanks so much for everyone's help. Much appreciated.
“The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men should do nothing.”
- Edmund Burke
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