Indoor hanging - slanted ceilings

[OneClick]

I didn't know which of the 100 "indoor hanging" threads to hijack, so Ill make a new one

Anyone hanging in a room with slanted ceilings, apparently called "bonus" rooms often above garages?

I'm assuming they're just 2x4 studs like in vertical walls, so I don't know if I trust this. But it would be very convenient and the spacing/height look perfect. I figured it would be easier to patch the ceiling instead of the wall if I changed my mind later on.

[Trail Runner]

I doubt that they're 2x4s on the ceiling/roof... more likely 2x8s or 2x6s. If you take the ceiling fan shroud off (the part touching the ceiling) there might be some gap that would allow you to see for certain.

[SilvrSurfr]

Probably 2 x 8s - I've got a room just like that and have been hanging from the ceiling for a year or so. I'm not using a hammock suspension. I didn't want the hammock spanning the width of the room so I put it in the corner (the right corner in your pic), where it would take up the least amount of room. I just screwed eyebolts into the rafters on the slanted part of the roof, estimating how high up the slanted roof they should go to give me approx. 18 inches above the floor (which is 5 ft. 2 inches for me).

I think most roof 2x8 rafters are 16 inches on center. Since I'm using an 11 ft. hammock, the ideal ridgeline (83% rule) is 109.56 inches. Since rafters don't know about the 83% rule, I chose two rafters 112 inches apart (or seven rafters).

I screwed in the eyebolts, hung the continuous loops on the eyebolts and started hanging. If I want a little more sag, I can add a soft shackle. I didn't put a lot of thought into my setup. I supposed you could pick rafters even further apart and then be able to use whoopies or UCR for suspension adjustment, but since the hammock had the right sag on my first try, I haven't adjusted or modified.

[OneClick]

Thanks for the info. SilvrSurfr, I'd be interested in a pic if it's not too much trouble...trying to visulize that setup in the corner.

I currently do my indoor hanging in the basement since it's cooler and out of the way, but I guess there's not much going on in this room at the moment

[SilvrSurfr]

The camera angle is a little less than ideal but I think you can get the idea from here.

[SilvrSurfr]

My room has four ft. stepwalls, whereas yours look like 5 ft. stepwalls. To keep the hammock low to the ground you would probably be a little closer to the stepwall than me (with still plenty of room).

[OneClick]

Thanks! A little different that I was thinking (across the corner using 2 of the walls). I may give it a try for another place to hang inside.

[BananaHammock]

I know this is an old thread and apparently pictures disappear after awhile but I need help hanging upstairs in my cape cod. So, there are wall studs or whatever in the slanted portions of the wall/ceiling?

[OneClick]

I know this is an old thread and apparently pictures disappear after awhile but I need help hanging upstairs in my cape cod. So, there are wall studs or whatever in the slanted portions of the wall/ceiling?

Funny timing because I just reconsidered this yesterday. I'm still not sure of the construction. Right now I have it going window-to-side wall which works fine. But I would like to move it away from the wall more and into another spot. I'm just not sure about the ceiling structure. I figure there's gotta be something to hold that drywall, but if it's a lighter duty 2x4 or even something smaller, I don't want to mess around.

Here's my current setup. Old pic, but same hooks in wall and still holding 100%



I have the window side higher for the foot end, thinking it would be nice to look out. But there's really nothing to see and I just get blinded anyway, so that's enough reason to move it, or at least swap direction to other side of room.

I'm assuming it's something like this. Mine was never an "attic" or storage place; it was just built as a standard bedroom from the start. Not sure that's better or worse as far as quality/hanging? I may just have to get a drill and test bit and turn a section into swiss cheese.

[Just Bill]

For both of you...
The pictures help. That is more or less the way an attic area is built. Though that picture is a bit unusual as the lower walls are ballooned up and the roof framed from there.
On BH's cape cod most likely the rafters continue down to the lower exterior walls and there is a dummy wall to create the vertical portion of the wall.
https://www.finehomebuilding.com/201...te-an-old-cape

Check out the pictures in this article.
Because this dummy wall or kneewall is there... the rafter size can often be reduced quite a bit due to the shorter span from wall to ridge.
It is not uncommon to find as little as 2x4 rafters in older Cape Cods. In which case it might be very unsafe to hang from them. Even 2x6 might be pretty sketchy.
In that case you'd be better off setting up your own stand or post rather than risk loading the rafters.
as the article shows... most true Capes have an access hatch that will let you check the rafter size.

Anyway-
The spot One Click used on the wall is generally a good one. As you move up the span of the ceiling you run the greater risk of damaging the rafter itself (sloped ceiling) as you are hanging midspan of the rafter.

The spot One Click used near the window is a risky one. If you look at his photo of the door framing... this is actually one of the stronger posts as there is a doubled stud there.
Unfortunately after the casing is applied (window trim) and you give yourself a bit of room then you are likely to miss that post. The double stud is 3" and the casing is 2 1/4" (typically). So unless you go directly through the casing your odds of getting enough 'meat' are not that good.

In general- hitting dead center of a 1.5" stud with a 3/8" or 1/2" bolt is harder than it seems. Most things are not designed for side loading either. When you hang on a stud sideloading it is much like breaking a branch over your knee.

On the plus side... there is an easy solution. With an easier cleanup if you choose to remove it later.
If your walls seem fairly solid- then you can just take a single 2x4 and use 3" framing screws to attach it to the wall spanning three studs.
Typical studs are 16" OC... so a 34" board is usually enough to span three studs. Then connect with 2 screws per stud (6 total) this spreads your load over three studs, plus adds the resistance of the 2x4 as well.
you can face mount an attachment to this board then near the center of it.

If the walls are sketchy. Then build a T-shape to mount to the wall (called a strongback). It's actually the member we use to brace rafters on long spans.
Just screw the second 2x4 to the first in a T shape- then mount the T to the wall.

Some might consider this overkill... but to me this is one of those 'If you are asking the question the answer is no' sorta things.
This is a more foolproof method and covers errors you might make by spreading the load.

If you miss the dead center of the stud with one of the screws... you won't blow it out.
If you try to drive in a half inch lag eye bolt too far off center of a stud... there is a good chance you can chew the stud up enough it can blow out.
If you're lucky... the lag will just rip out and you bump your butt. If you're not your stud will collapse... along with all the drywall or siding attached to it.

In many ways OneClick's setup is a good example of this possibility. Since the hammock is hanging at a two adjoining walls (rather than the opposing wall) the anchors are pulling on a 45 degree angle relative to the strong axis of the stud. So besides side loading the stud you're adding a rotational load to it as well.

You could reduce that slightly by rotating the eye bolt so it is in the direction of the hang.

End of the world... probably not. I know Banana hammock is skinny... I think I recall you saying you were under 200lbs too One Click.
But without knowing for a fact that a qualified person installs the bolts... hard to say for sure. That's why I recommend using the block to span a few studs... your margin of error is much higher.

As mentioned... if you need to pull it... just a few 1/8" diameter screw holes to patch rather than a half inch lag bolt hole.


Banana Hammock:
In our area... plaster over lath is not that uncommon if you have an older home. Especially in the northern burbs.
While drywall will flex a bit... plaster will not. So while the framing may take your weight... loading and unloading that framing may flex the plaster to the point of cracking or more serious damage.