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  1. #1
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    DIY hammock ridgeline ??

    I am wanting to make a fixed ridgeline for my 11' hammock. I have watched The Brew Guy's video how to do it. What Im getting confused on is what the end to end length should be before I start making the locked brummels. I want a 4" bury and 2" loop as per the video. I understand you measure 4"s from end and make a mark (bury), then measure another 4"s and mark (2" loop). I dont understand where he is coming up with his measurements to cut the line from his 25' stock line. Once cut I get you measure and mark it out the same as when you started. Just having trouble with the total length of line to start with. Can anyone help me out with? Thanks! I took 132" x .83 = 109.56 rounding to 110" total finished length, loop tip to loop tip. Does that sound right?

  2. #2
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    Sorry, this should probably go in the DIY section.

  3. #3
    Senior Member AaronMB's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Silvertip47203 View Post
    I am wanting to make a fixed ridgeline for my 11' hammock. I have watched The Brew Guy's video how to do it. What Im getting confused on is what the end to end length should be before I start making the locked brummels. I want a 4" bury and 2" loop as per the video. I understand you measure 4"s from end and make a mark (bury), then measure another 4"s and mark (2" loop). I dont understand where he is coming up with his measurements to cut the line from his 25' stock line. Once cut I get you measure and mark it out the same as when you started. Just having trouble with the total length of line to start with. Can anyone help me out with? Thanks! I took 132" x .83 = 109.56 rounding to 110" total finished length, loop tip to loop tip. Does that sound right?
    I'm not sure I know that video. For your 2" loop, you'll need to double the amount, so account for 4" there (as you stated). I'd also add a 1" for a taper: 4"+2"(x2)+1". This is 9" on a side; times two; plus the total length that you desire.

    Your math is good. Have you tried laying in your/that hammock with a 109.5" ridgeline? 83% is a good place to start but it's not a definite for everyone. I'd try making one end adjustable, whoopie sling style. Then, after you get it dialed in, take the measurement. If you don't want to make another ridgeline, you can always undo the whoopie sling portion and make it fixed.
    Last edited by AaronMB; 07-19-2014 at 21:14.

  4. #4
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    Thanks AaronMB, how long of line would I need to make it like the whoopie style? My plan is getting 25' and making it out of dynaglide.

  5. #5
    Senior Member kayak4water's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AaronMB View Post
    I'm not sure I know that video. For your 2" loop, you'll need to double the amount, so account for 4" there (as you stated). I'd also add a 1" for a taper: 4"+2"(x2)+1". This is 9" on a side; times two; plus the total length that you desire.

    Your math is good. Have you tried laying in your/that hammock with a 109.5" ridgeline? 83% is a good place to start but it's not a definite for everyone. I'd try making one end adjustable, whoopie sling style. Then, after you get it dialed in, take the measurement. If you don't want to make another ridgeline, you can always undo the whoopie sling portion and make it fixed.
    Re: the adjustable ridgeline, Aaron has you on the right track. You never know when a comfort issue forces you to experiment with your ridgeline. I'm rather new to the hanging life and have hung indoors numerous times and 3-4x outside now and I still can't decide on 83, 85, 87, 89% etc. My comfort has no consistency from night to night. I've tried 83% on a 143" rag, but right now I favor 87%.

    Re: how long a rope to cut for your dogbone, my mileage varies on this. For a different use, I started with 52" of 7/64" amsteel blue. I made marks 4" and 10" from one end, then made marks 4" and 8" from the other end, hoping for loops 2" and 4". (I didn't add any rope for a taper, instead tapering 3/4" of each end.)
    52" -10" -8" = 34" in between the two middle marks. When done I had a ~37" long dogbone with a 2.5" loop on one end and a 1.5" loop on the other end. 37-2.5-1.5=33. The locked Brummels and the buries ate up 1" from each loop and 1" from the middle section.

    To make a 110" dogbone of 7/64" Amsteel Blue with 2" loops, I'd cut 125" of rope for marks 4" and 9" from each end plus 106" in the middle plus 1" for the buries=107". [9" + 9" + 107" = 125".]

    To make a ridgeline of 7/64" Amsteel Blue adjustable from 100 -125" I'd cut 167" of rope, mark 4" and 9" from one end and make the brummel at that end. Then I'd make marks 91" and 100" further out, pulling the free end through the latter and pulling it out at the 91" mark. Then I'd make marks 2.5 and 6" from the free end and splice the end into the 2.5" mark (pulling from the 6" mark). I'd also try to remember to splice a 1" section of scrap rope into the loop or pass a bead onto the loop to keep myself from pulling it through the bury. See my picture below. The extra cost for an adjustable ridgeline is pretty cheap: under 4 feet extra rope.
    Scan_20140720.jpg
    Take notes and good luck.

    Don't worry, hang happy!
    Last edited by kayak4water; 07-20-2014 at 10:30. Reason: grammatical error

  6. #6
    Senior Member Detman101's Avatar
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    Yikes.
    this is too advanced for me right now.

  7. #7
    Senior Member kayak4water's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Detman101 View Post
    Yikes.
    this is too advanced for me right now.
    And just to make things a little more complex, I attach the ridgeline to the suspension using soft shackles (instructions) instead of carabiners.

    Once you start splicing rope toys, you don't stop. You just get better. You figure new ways to use what you've just made

  8. #8
    Senior Member AaronMB's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Detman101 View Post
    Yikes.
    this is too advanced for me right now.
    It takes a little while to wrap your head around it. I know. If you're interested at all, try watching a few videos and reading different tutorials. It'll sink in.

  9. #9
    Senior Member kayak4water's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kayak4water View Post
    Re: the adjustable ridgeline, Aaron has you on the right track. You never know when a comfort issue forces you to experiment with your ridgeline. I'm rather new to the hanging life and have hung indoors numerous times and 3-4x outside now and I still can't decide on 83, 85, 87, 89% etc. My comfort has no consistency from night to night. I've tried 83% on a 143" rag, but right now I favor 87%.

    Re: how long a rope to cut for your dogbone, my mileage varies on this. For a different use, I started with 52" of 7/64" amsteel blue. I made marks 4" and 10" from one end, then made marks 4" and 8" from the other end, hoping for loops 2" and 4". (I didn't add any rope for a taper, instead tapering 3/4" of each end.)
    52" -10" -8" = 34" in between the two middle marks. When done I had a ~37" long dogbone with a 2.5" loop on one end and a 1.5" loop on the other end. 37-2.5-1.5=33. The locked Brummels and the buries ate up 1" from each loop and 1" from the middle section.

    To make a 110" dogbone of 7/64" Amsteel Blue with 2" loops, I'd cut 125" of rope for marks 4" and 9" from each end plus 106" in the middle plus 1" for the buries=107". [9" + 9" + 107" = 125".]

    To make a ridgeline of 7/64" Amsteel Blue adjustable from 100 -125" I'd cut 167" of rope, mark 4" and 9" from one end and make the brummel at that end. Then I'd make marks 91" and 100" further out, pulling the free end through the latter and pulling it out at the 91" mark. Then I'd make marks 2.5 and 6" from the free end and splice the end into the 2.5" mark (pulling from the 6" mark). I'd also try to remember to splice a 1" section of scrap rope into the loop or pass a bead onto the loop to keep myself from pulling it through the bury. See my picture below. The extra cost for an adjustable ridgeline is pretty cheap: under 4 feet extra rope.
    Scan_20140720.jpg
    Take notes and good luck.

    Don't worry, hang happy!
    Oops, I left out critical lengths of rope to make it work. This requires additional rope as below:
    7" for length of rope that passes through the 9" bury at the adjustable end
    4-6" for length of rope that one may need to tie a knot or splice back into itself to prevent the end from slipping back through the 9" bury at the adjustable end
    Total is 174"


    I made a spreadsheet to help myself and anyone else figure it out. Click on the tab at the bottom labeled "ridge" Copy the cells to a new spreadsheet on your own account to make changes.

    Apologies for the confusion. I'm quite sure I got all the details right this time.
    Last edited by kayak4water; 08-06-2014 at 01:16. Reason: to add directions for use

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by kayak4water View Post
    Once you start splicing rope toys, you don't stop. You just get better. You figure new ways to use what you've just made
    This is so true. It's the strangest addiction I've ever had... and I've been addicted to many strange things.

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