Wanted to get some feedback on my plans before I accidentally ruin my hammock

[Bhuij]

Hey all--

My 7/64 Amsteel Blue from Redden just showed up in the mail, and I'm ready to pimp out my hammock. It's a Grand Trunk UL.

So I have 40 feet. I figure I'll chop of 25ft, split that in half and make a couple of whoopie slings, cut off 10ft for a structural ridgeline, and the remaining 5 ft will *hopefully* be enough to make a couple of continuous loops for each end.

I have a few questions and a few concerns.

1. Are the continuous loops through the channel in my gathered ends going to tear through my hammock? The GTUL is not exactly made out of bulletproof kevlar. It came stock with some slightly thicker, extremely stiff cord through the sewn channels, but even that was doubled over. The Amsteel is considerably more flexible and thin, and I don't want to put more stress on the fabric of the hammock than it can take.

2. Is 5' of cord enough to make two continuous loops?

3. Is 10' of cord enough to make a good adjustable structural ridgeline?

4. What is the best method for making said adjustable structural ridgeline? I read prussiks don't hold in Amsteel, and after handling it I can believe that without difficulty.

5. Finally, what is the best way to secure the ridgeline to the hammock? Connect it to the continuous loops? Tie it around the gathered ends as if there was no channel?

Thanks for answering these presumably noobish questions.

[Bubba]

Hey all--

My 7/64 Amsteel Blue from Redden just showed up in the mail, and I'm ready to pimp out my hammock. It's a Grand Trunk UL.

So I have 40 feet. I figure I'll chop of 25ft, split that in half and make a couple of whoopie slings, cut off 10ft for a structural ridgeline, and the remaining 5 ft will *hopefully* be enough to make a couple of continuous loops for each end.

I have a few questions and a few concerns.

1. Are the continuous loops through the channel in my gathered ends going to tear through my hammock? The GTUL is not exactly made out of bulletproof kevlar. It came stock with some slightly thicker, extremely stiff cord through the sewn channels, but even that was doubled over. The Amsteel is considerably more flexible and thin, and I don't want to put more stress on the fabric of the hammock than it can take.

2. Is 5' of cord enough to make two continuous loops?

3. Is 10' of cord enough to make a good adjustable structural ridgeline?

4. What is the best method for making said adjustable structural ridgeline? I read prussiks don't hold in Amsteel, and after handling it I can believe that without difficulty.

5. Finally, what is the best way to secure the ridgeline to the hammock? Connect it to the continuous loops? Tie it around the gathered ends as if there was no channel?

Thanks for answering these presumably noobish questions.

Splicing the preferred method of working with amsteel. It retains much of its breaking strength and it allows you to make other useful things besides whoopie slings and ridgelines such as dogbones and soft shackles.

1. I've never seen amsteel causing a problem being run through the end channel of a hammock. When the continuous loop is larksheaded through the end channel there is so much material bunched up and the larkshead is so tight that friction and pressure are not going to cause an issue.

2. 5' is more than enough to make 2 continuous loops. 24" makes an 6" to 8" long continuous loop when factoring the buries.

3. 10' is ok to make a fixed RL with 2 fixed loops. Might be a little short to make an ASRL.

4. An ASRL can be made in the same fashion as a whoopie sling with some changes in the dimensions. You don't need a large adjustable loop, you only need enough to give you 12" of adjustment above and below the recommened 83% of the hammock length. Also, the distance from the fixed loop to the adjustable bury is much longer say in the neighbourhood of 70" vs 6" on a whoopie sling.

5. A simple way to attach the ASRL is to feed the continuous loops through the end channels and then through the loops of the ASRL and then complete the larkshead on the continuous loops. This keeps the ASRL attachment points right where the continuous loops meet the hammock body.

[karls]

Check the whoopie sling worksheet to see if 12.5' will be enough to make a decent length whoopie sling. I am in a similar boat and bought a short length (20') to find that I will probably have to purchase more to make decent length slings without using an overkill amount of tree savers and extensions (continuous loops).

[Bubba]

Check the whoopie sling worksheet to see if 12.5' will be enough to make a decent length whoopie sling. I am in a similar boat and bought a short length (20') to find that I will probably have to purchase more to make decent length slings without using an overkill amount of tree savers and extensions (continuous loops).

12.5' is enough to make a roughly 6' whoopie sling.

[Floridahanger]

Hey all--

My 7/64 Amsteel Blue from Redden just showed up in the mail, and I'm ready to pimp out my hammock. It's a Grand Trunk UL.

So I have 40 feet. I figure I'll chop of 25ft, split that in half and make a couple of whoopie slings, cut off 10ft for a structural ridgeline, and the remaining 5 ft will *hopefully* be enough to make a couple of continuous loops for each end.

I have a few questions and a few concerns.

1. Are the continuous loops through the channel in my gathered ends going to tear through my hammock? The GTUL is not exactly made out of bulletproof kevlar. It came stock with some slightly thicker, extremely stiff cord through the sewn channels, but even that was doubled over. The Amsteel is considerably more flexible and thin, and I don't want to put more stress on the fabric of the hammock than it can take.

2. Is 5' of cord enough to make two continuous loops?

3. Is 10' of cord enough to make a good adjustable structural ridgeline?

4. What is the best method for making said adjustable structural ridgeline? I read prussiks don't hold in Amsteel, and after handling it I can believe that without difficulty.

5. Finally, what is the best way to secure the ridgeline to the hammock? Connect it to the continuous loops? Tie it around the gathered ends as if there was no channel?

Thanks for answering these presumably noobish questions.

1)Since the age and material status isn't known, make sure the channel is triple stiched which it should be. If your not comfortable with the fabric strength....

...2)Yes, 2.5 feet per loop is fine. You can either go thru the channel or larkshead the continuous loop (CL) on the end channel like a whipping.

3)No. 10' is only just enough for a SRL that is not adjustable. You need ~2 more feet to make it adjustable.

4)Make a locked brummel on one end(like the small end of a whoopie sling) and a short, ~12-18 inch "whoopie sling" on the adjustable side with an 6-8 inch bury to hold the adjustable tag end.

5)Slide the locked brummel around the CL attached to the hammock and the adjustable side around the other CL.

The Amsteel for a SRL is overkill but can still be fine, most use Zing-it and such. Also, you can make a UCR, utility constrictor rope instead of a whoopie sling if you choose. Hope that helps and keep on asking.

[Bhuij]

Made the slings today. Surprisingly easy process actually haha. The concept of splicing and then constriction holds is so cool to me.

I'll have enough for continuous loops as well.

As for the ASRL, I wish I had bought 20' instead of 10, but we'll see what I can do. Unfortunately it will definitely be too short to make a whoopie sling-style ASRL, but I'll try other methods that take less cord before giving up haha.

[Bhuij]

Sorry for the double post, but I wanted to report back.

I love it. Kicks my old suspension system's trash, any day of the week. Love it love it.

Tomorrow I'm hoping to test the ASRL. I made a very small fixed loop in one end and attached it into the larks head of the continuous loop on one end a was suggested earlier in this thread. Probably used (and therefore lost) a total of maybe 4" out of my 10', if that. The other end I haven't touched, but it looked long enough to stretch the necessary distance. I think I'll try looping it through a carabiner and tying it off. Not the most elegant solution, but in theory once it's dialed in I probably won't be moving it much anyway. We'll see I guess.