WBBB XLC(ish) clone - WIP

[shef]

Seeing as this is my fifth DIY hammock, I figured I’d try to take notes about what I am doing, so I (or someone else) may be able to repeat the process if it comes out well.

This is still a WIP. I have integrated several elements from hammock designs I have seen on hammock forums.

The bug net, shelf, and footbox (a la WBBB XLC) can be zipped off, and stowed in a self closing peak bag at the foot end.

The structural ridge line is fixed (not adjustable), but it is able to be ‘removed’ at the head end, and the line can be stowed in the foot peak bag as well if desired. Note: Don’t try to use the bug net without the ridge line intact.

Instead of making another two layer hammock, I decided to make this one a single layer with 1.9oz coyote from ripstropbytheroll.com

Parts list:
4 yards of noseeum
< 7 yards of 1.9oz ripstop (60+” wide) [A double layer would take @ 11 yards]
12 yards 1” grosgrain
< 1 yard grosgrain reflect
24 feet YKK Zipper coil #3
3 each YKK Zipper pulls, double tab
6 each Slimline Zipper Pull /Cord End
2 mitten hooks
5 feet 1/8” Shock Cord
25 feet 7/64 amsteel blue
2 zip ties
lash it for temporary whipping and for prussiks
glow wire for tie out lines and zipper pulls
Gutermann Mara thread
1 line lock 3
1 pack hook


Method:
1. The shelf/footbox ‘wing’. The correct dimensions on this piece is critical. So much so, that I decided to make it first, and then work backwards to the hammock body. Using the 9 foot (ridge line) WBBB plans found HERE as a template for the side panel, footbox/shelf and ‘patch’ pieces:
, I cobbled together these pieces using scrap pieces of noseeum and ripstop I had lying around. When the ‘wing’ (and reinforcement patch) was assembled, I measured the edge that will attach to the hammock body, and it came to 132.5”, which should be just about perfect for a 135” body, with a 1” channel at each end.

Note: At this point, I also made a second piece of ripstop to match the ‘shelf’ portion, and set it aside, to be used in step 3 below.


Photo: The 'wing' is laid out on a piece of gray 1.1 ripstop.

2. The zipper. Because I want the bug net, shelf, footbox, and side panel all to be one piece, and able to zip off, and stow at the foot end, I started by attaching the zipper to the footbox side of the wing first. Leaving about four inches of zipper hanging off the end, I rolled the rough edge that attaches to the hammock under 1/4”, and sewed them together using a zipper foot. Once it was sewn, I went back and reinforced it with a second line of stitches. I butted up the side panel piece of noseeup to where the shelf ended and attached it in the same way.




Photo(s): Zipper is attached to 'wing' and side panel. Excess zipper is not removed until after being attached to hammock body.

3. Shelf ‘top’. This step is completely optional, but I wanted the layer covering my shelf to be ripstop instead of noseeum. I also wanted zipper access to the shelf from the outside. In a nutshell, I sewed the two layers together inside out. If the zipper is sewn on the inside edge of the ‘wing’, the piece needs to be with the zipper ‘teeth’ up (visible). Lay the extra shelf piece on top of the first, and pin it (optional). Starting at the tie-out points, and heading towards each end, sew both pieces together. Once both sides are sewn together, you can install a short zipper between the two tie-out points. Once it was all sewn, inverted it, so the rough edges and stitching are folded inside.


Photo: After sewing and inverting, the tie out corners are fitted with 3" loops of reflective grosgrain to form tie out loops.

4. Ridgeline/Suspension. I made a pair of 12” amsteel continuous loops for the suspension.
For the ridge line, I first took a 40” piece of amsteel, and back spliced both ends. Then I tied a lanyard (or diamond) knot in the end. This will be whipped into the head end of the hammock, and act as a stopper knot for a soft shackle attachment. Next, I made the soft shackle with a 4.5” bury and 2” adjustment loop.


Photo: suspension loops, lanyard knot and ridge line with soft shackle attachment and McDonald Brummel.

Knowing that I wanted the total length of my ridge line to be 108”, I attached the soft shackle to the lanyard knot, then measured from the end of the lanyard loop to 115.5”. At the far end I made a McDonald brummel with a 3” loop. Before I do the last bury I make sure to measure and ensure that end to end, the ridge line is 108”.

[shef]

Reserved for WIP

5. Hammock Body. If everything on the wing portion is measured and sewn correctly, the hammock body fabric will need to be 135-136” long. Do a 1/4” rolled hem along both long edges of the hammock body. Then, roll and sew a 1” channel at one end. This will be the foot end of the hammock. Referring to Xtrekker’s method HERE, make (two) and install a ‘triangle’ at the foot end to conceal the zipper ends.

6. Attach the ‘wing’. Starting at the foot end of the hammock, line up the end of the footbox portion of the wing with the edge of the hammock body, and attach it by sewing on the zipper, STOPPING APPROXIMATELY 6 INCHES FROM THE END OF THE SHELF. Using the same method as in step five above, install the second ‘triangle’ in the hammock body, ensuring that it lines up so the shelf ends at the center point of the triangle, and the side panel begins. Once the triangle is attached, continue sewning the zipper and side panel to the hammock body, until reaching the original triangle at the opposite side of the foot end. If you haven’t already, be sure to install both of your zipper pulls now before sealing off the ends of the zippers.

7. Reinforcement. Be sure the zipper ends are secured to the hammock with bar tacks, and whipped into the foot end. At the head end, there needs to be something to reinforce the peak of the bug net to the suspension, in order to absorb the strain, if sitting in the hammock with the shelf attached in ‘chair mode’, as described HERE.

[shef]

It was a beautiful day today in South Carolina. Highs got up into the 80's for the first time this year. I took a half day off from work, and decided to take a nap in the back yard. As I was snapping a photo to send to my friends (who were still at work), I remembered this incomplete thread, and decided to nerco-post. This is the hammock I've been using since September.



It lays head left, feet right. The shelf is significantly larger than a standard WBBB. I generally don't bother to stake it out, but use it for a place to store my top quilt when not in use. Though I can zip the bug net, shelf, and foot box almost entirely off, and store it at the foot, I have found that I rarely do so. I guess it's nice to have options though.

Thanks again to Gresh and the rest of the PSH crew. If you look carefully, you can see my new patch proudly displayed on the side panel.

[xxl_hanger]

Nice. I will do it similar than you, a completely convertable 11' 1.9oz DL hammock. I will try the following logical steps:

1. the hammock without any zipper and bugnet (first testhang to determine the best footbox dimensions for my body size).
2. two full legnth #5 YYK endless coil zippers on both sides with triangle end caps on both Hammock ends
3. first top cover only bug net - HH or Jerry 5 style (with one half of a cheap but compatible no-name #5 coil zipper)
4. second top cover bug net with no-see-um footbox and self same fabric than outer layer - BB style (YKK #5 coil zipper)
5. third top cover completly fabric - BB, HH or Jeryy 5 style (with the other half of a cheap but compatible no-name #5 coil zipper)