I recently returned from a backpacking trip to the Smokies in which I hiked a counter-clockwise loop of the Appalachian Trail (AT) and the Benton MacKaye Trail (BMT), starting and ending at Newfound Gap with one re-supply in Cherokee, NC. It took 11 days and totaled 155.5 trail miles (~164 miles with side trips). Because of National Park regulations three relatively sleepless nights were spent in AT shelters, but the rest were in my hammock. What follows is a short daily log, a few pictures, and some notes on logistics and equipment I used, which can hopefully help someone planning a similar trip.
Day 1 (9/18/2014): Newfound Gap to Double Spring Shelter (10.8 mi)
Parked car at Newfound Gap lot, crossed Rt441 and proceeded with 6 ½ days of food to Clingman’s Dome observation tower. Great 360 degree views and overview of what I was getting into. Good ridge views from AT heading southbound from there. Had 11 folks at the shelter that night including a couple doing a 500 mile northbound section hike, and two guys with brand new Hennessy hammocks. I’m tempted to hammock as well, but didn’t want to chance a fine. Slept like crap on Z-lite pad on hard floor.
Day 2: Double Spring Shelter to Russell Fields Shelter (16.4 mi)
Up over Thunderhead Mtn and the Rocky Top Mtn (famous in song). Three guys from Georgia sitting at shelter said they had just seen a large black bear right where I emerged on the trail. They complained, as did several at last night’s shelter, that mice were getting to their food hung on the bear cables. I had wrapped four days of food inside an odor-proof bag wrapped in aluminum window screen and duct tape – no problems. Four horse riders with 5 horses (one for the enormous coolers) arrived at dusk. Water source not great - more like a horse wallow. Another lousy night’s sleep. No Sobo’s (yet).
Day 3: Russell Fields Shelter to Campsite 88 (14.8 mi)
Departed the AT and turned left, descending on Lost Cove Trail (one of ~10 trails that comprise the BMT in the park). At the turn, talked to a day hiker who had just hiked up from Fontana Dam. He was the last human I’d see for two days. Tough (let’s call them “technical”) rock hops across Lost Cove Creek. Saw first black bear, medium size crossing trail about 80’ in front of me. The bear wandered slowly into the woods and I gingerly passed the spot on the trail. Finally got to set up hammock/tarp at Site 88 near creek, where I cleaned up and slept like a rock.
Day 4: Campsite 88 to Campsite 76 (13.9 mi)
Saw another bear crossing the trail, a smaller one that ran away. Three large feral hogs startled me as they blasted away from me (good) at close range. Views through the trees of Fontana Lake are pretty. Lake level is low in spite of the seemingly large amounts of water that are flowing in. The plant diversity is amazing - parts of the trail feel like I’m walking in a Botanical Garden without the little labels. Got phone signal and word that it would rain that night and high-tailed it to camp, hung rig, ate, brushed teeth and hung bear bags, just as it started to rain. Went to sleep with the sound of soft rain on the tarp and slept really well.
Day 5: Campsite 76 to Campsite 64 (16.5 mi)
Some road walking today, including through the dark, infamous “Tunnel to Nowhere”. Left lake views along the Lakeshore Trail and turned up the Noland Creek Trail. Made camp at #64 with nice couple from Maryville, TN – had dinner and campfire with them. Don’t know if they sensed I was more than a bit starved for human interaction.
Day 6: Campsite 64 to Campsite 57 (9.2 mi)
Several crossings of Noland Creek over log bridges. My last rock hop crossing was difficult, scrambling under rhododendron (sp. backpackus snaggus) to find the set of rocks I could jump across without getting wet, poles required. I barely made it – a high five moment – turned and took a picture of the crossing to document it, and I noticed one of my red Vivobarefoot plastic shoes (seen in my profile picture) in a small eddy on the other side, after being snagged off of my backpack. If anyone else were there, they would have been doubled over laughing as I went back to retrieve the shoe.
It was a short day with the alternative to continue to hike to the top of Newton Bald – Campsite 52. Didn’t do that, so I had over 5 hours to kill at Campsite 57. Shaved, made about 15 so-so videos, killed time at campsite, in what would be my last night alone.
Day 7: Campsite 57 to Cherokee, NC (12.1+ mi)
With shower/laundry/buffet dominating thoughts, marched up Newton Bald (no views) past site #52. Called Cherokee Transit and found I could not make it to last bus run to Cherokee in time (see logistics). Walked ~5 mi to motel and retrieved resupply box, showered (twice), washed clothes, and found good AYCE buffet. Sent excess food, zip-on leggings, puffy jacket and chargers home in pre-stamped USPS box.
Day 8: Tow String Horse Camp to Campsite 47 (9.4+ mi)
Mid-morning, took the bus to Tow String, about 1 ½ miles short of the trail intersection. Passed Chasteen Creek Cascade and started continuous climb up to ridge. Hung on bluff ~30’ above Enloe Creek. Hanging options were limited, but I found one perched above creek but one tree was too big for my 9’ tree straps. I had to improvise by using my short piece of utility cord to tie the straps ends together with a quadruple granny knot (I can do better), then putting a marlinspike hitch in one whoopie sling. Everything held, but I had to cut the knot in the morning. Met a couple guys from Birmingham, AL who were a couple days away from finishing their section hike of the entire BMT (after having sectioned the AT). We were all active in Scouting and shared common interests including Philmont (one had been there 8 times). Learned a lot about bats from fellow from Raleigh who had a contract to study them in the field – he had accessed the park in a kayak he had stashed in the woods somewhere near the lake.
Day 9: Campsite 47 to Campsite 38 (16 mi)
Tough day with lots of ups and downs, and a couple bee stings, culminating in a campsite on Sterling Ridge (water source was way downhill, about .4mi.) Hiked with, and leapfrogged, BMT section hikers, with whom I shared dinner again. Toasted their impending finish of their BMT section hike the following morning. The fire tower offered 360 degree views of the mountains. Heard news of looming rain front.
Day 10: Campsite 38 to Cosby Knob Shelter (14.1+ mi)
Gorgeous sunrise from top of fire tower – sea of clouds to east, mountains to west. Because of weather forecasts, I called Backcountry Office to push my reservations forward from Davenport Gap and Tricorner Knob, to Cosby Knob and Icewater Springs and started the 4000’ descent to Big Creek Campground. After short road walk, re-joined the AT and proceeded southbound. What comes down must go back up, and that’s what I did out of Davenport Gap. Made side-trip to Mt. Cammerer lookout for another 360 degree view. Finished long day at Cosby Knob, where 9 folks were settling in. Two were SoBo through hikers who had started on June 1. “Sandals” was an appropriate trail name for the one who had to have some very tough feet.
Day 11: Cosby Knob Shelter to Newfound Gap (22.3 mi)
Passed hard-working trail crew (thank-you) and wreckage from small plane crash. Best views from trail yet, but clouds were closing in. Eventually I was inside a cloud and the views were gone. I’ll have to go back someday to see Charlie’s Bunion. At Icewater Springs Shelter, I decided to push on to the car, concluding a brutal but rewarding day about an hour before dark. Glad to see car was intact, and enjoyed a cold beer, a hamburger, and a motel room in Gatlinburg.
Logistics and Equipment
- If you start or end within 50 miles of the National Park boundary, you need advance backcountry reservations for each campsite/shelter, which can be acquired by website or phone.
- Reservations will be more difficult in spring (AT through-hiker season), and October (fall leave colors). September worked well for me, with really nice weather.
- Park regulations currently state that backcountry campers must stay inside the shelter or risk a fine. You cannot attach a hammock to any part of a shelter.
- Newfound Gap is a logical starting place for a loop, as you don’t start with a big climb up to the ridge with full food supply. Parking there turned out to be secure. I had talked to a maintenance person who said he had not heard of any break-ins this spring or summer.
- The trail tread on the AT is generally tougher than on the BMT. The Lakeshore Trail segment is generally flat, easy walking, although parts were a bit overgrown. Biggest climbs were Mt. Cammerer, Mt. Sterling, Newton Bald, and Thunderhead Mtn.
- Water was available at all campsites/shelters, as well as many places along the trail, so minimal water carry was necessary. It’s scarcer along the AT than the BMT.
- The north side of Cherokee is 4.7 miles from the trailhead at Smokemont Campground. You can get a Cherokee Transit shuttle from/to Tow String but not after ~1PM – check their schedule. They used to allow drivers to drop you at Smokemont but now the vehicles are governed by GPS so they can’t. It’s a road walk to the Visitors Center and a ~1 ½ mile riverside trail to town.
- Baymont Motel in Cherokee was good about holding my re-supply box. They have laundry facilities and a Cherokee bus stop right in front. There’s a Chinese AYCE buffet a short walk away. Note that Cherokee is dry, except for the casino.
- The AT is the only blazed trail I encountered. There are signs at MOST trail intersections on the BMT, but with no blazes you can go quite a way before finding out if you missed one. I didn’t have a problem but it’s wise to bring a good map.
- Helpful resources: Sgt Rock’s BMT Thru-Hikers Guide, National Geographic Trail Map # 229, Awol’s AT Guide
- Partial equipment list: Hammock/tarp/quilts shown in my profile; New Balance MT510 trail running shoes and Darn Tough socks (no blisters!); REI Flash65 backpack – 3lbs; Sawyer Squeeze water filter with Evernew bag; GSI Outdoors cooking kit w/ canister stove; Kindle Paperwhite; Sansa Clip MP3 player/radio/recorder (<1 oz); Canon A2400 camera; Verizon pre-paid flip phone; trekking poles – 1 UL Black Diamond (the Stick-Pic stick) and 1 Leki (the bear-be-good stick); Jim Beam; Base weight ~19 lbs.
All said, it was a fantastic trip. Please post or PM me if you'd like more information.
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