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  1. #601
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by cmc4free View Post
    Sweet!
    Touch up with a file, or extract offending spring buttons and twist the leaf spring so that the button is a little more perpendicular to the spring. Easy peasy!

    Latherdome, I have not used the head tether at all yet, but I'm curious why it was decided not to make that one a UCR like the other lines? Not even a loop on the stake end of the head-tether, IIRC. I like knots, just curious is all...

    Post #600 in this thread! Congrats on all that buzz!
    Yeah, I'm not really sure how to connect the head end tether, myself. I improvised, but I'm curious if anybody has better ideas than me.

    Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

  2. #602
    Senior Member Crazytown3's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by caveat View Post
    I've only used my inside so far but it's pretty awesome.

    I've yet to try to figure out how to hang a tarp over it. Any special tips?
    Like Shug shows, 11' tarps work well natively, and Latherdome mentions 12' tarps just need to be 'snugged up' through the notch at either end. This is a picture of my 12' tarp setup where I did exactly as Latherdome suggests. It works, and there were no issues with damage to the tarp or anything:

    tarp1.jpg

  3. #603
    curlymaple42's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Crazytown3 View Post
    Like Shug shows, 11' tarps work well natively, and Latherdome mentions 12' tarps just need to be 'snugged up' through the notch at either end. This is a picture of my 12' tarp setup where I did exactly as Latherdome suggests. It works, and there were no issues with damage to the tarp or anything:

    tarp1.jpg
    So you are running a CRL correct? So you connect one end right up tight and then the other end you run over and what attach the CRL to a ground stake out the tether with a prussic?

    Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
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  4. #604
    all secure in sector 7 Shug's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mychal View Post
    Yeah, I'm not really sure how to connect the head end tether, myself. I improvised, but I'm curious if anybody has better ideas than me.

    Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
    See head tether at 4:00 in on this video.
    I just tied a couple slippery half-hitches as it does not get a lot of pull.
    Shug

    Whooooo Buddy)))) All Secure in Sector Seven

  5. #605
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by cmc4free View Post
    Sweet!
    Touch up with a file, or extract offending spring buttons and twist the leaf spring so that the button is a little more perpendicular to the spring. Easy peasy!

    Latherdome, I have not used the head tether at all yet, but I'm curious why it was decided not to make that one a UCR like the other lines? Not even a loop on the stake end of the head-tether, IIRC. I like knots, just curious is all...

    Post #600 in this thread! Congrats on all that buzz!
    Re touching up the holes, a twist with a screwdriver suffices to remove/smooth out any micron-level tightness. File/drill overkill. Next production we've enlarged the holes a hair. Downside is this will create a tiny bit more jiggle, but should eliminate more problems.

    Not using the head tether?!?! You daredevil! Watch out or you're likely to be catapulted into the next county, right as you're nodding off.

    Re no UCR for head tether: we wanted to use lighter line than Amsteel to convey that the head tether is not meant to be a heavy load-bearing line, instead only a light taco insurance policy. That lighter line is harder to splice either into a UCR or even fixed loop, and since it is not meant to be tightened up anyway, leaving it loose lets the user tie any old loose knot, leaving the tether a bit slack.

    If this all seems a bit too much social engineering, we agree. We plan a transition to a different line/connector scheme. What's shipping now is frankly a bottleneck in our production process, and UCRs are an ultralight solution in a non-ultralight product that, while elegant, is not familiar enough to civilians to be the best default. Can't say more now: still being worked out.

    Re buzz: it's been amazing. This and the main Tensahedron Stand thread seem to have racked up a higher view count and posting rate than most anything comparable over the last year.
    Last edited by Latherdome; 10-17-2018 at 13:41.
    --
    Tensa Outdoor, LLC, maker of the Tensa4, Tensa Solo, and Tensa Trekking Treez hammock stands: http://tensaoutdoor.com/

  6. #606
    Senior Member
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    We're still touching up some loose ends in the documentation and photos department, but you heard it here first:

    Tensa Solo is now shipping. Along with conversion kits for Tensa4, so you can have the best of both worlds: https://www.tensaoutdoor.com/shop/

    As explained on site, Tensa Solo is a much lighter, more compact, and economical hanging solution than Tensa4. The downside is that you must be able to anchor firmly to ground, as the guylines come under much higher tension than in Tensa4. Tensa Solo uses the same keyed tubing as Tensa4 for the lower, largest 4 segments, with a new smaller 5th size used as a tarp extension.

    If you travel with Tensa4 and Solo conversion kit(s), you can decide last minute based on distance to camp and ground conditions whether to set up Tensa4 or Solo, Solo being easily backpackable. If you expect to find only 1 good tree or rock feature, or maybe a stout woody shrub upslope, you can carry only one Solo with anchors and lines, under 3lbs.

    We hope that between these 2 products, you can forget all about a redundant terrestrial sleeping system just in case The Man tries to ground you, or perhaps you're west of the Mississippi, where trees just aren't the sure thing they are east, as anybody can see from space. That's our mission: thwart The Man, solve problems visible from space.
    Last edited by Latherdome; 10-17-2018 at 16:32.
    --
    Tensa Outdoor, LLC, maker of the Tensa4, Tensa Solo, and Tensa Trekking Treez hammock stands: http://tensaoutdoor.com/

  7. #607
    cmc4free's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Latherdome View Post
    Re touching up the holes, a twist with a screwdriver suffices to remove/smooth out any micron-level tightness. File/drill overkill. Next production we've enlarged the holes a hair. Downside is this will create a tiny bit more jiggle, but should eliminate more problems.

    Not using the head tether?!?! You daredevil! Watch out or you're likely to be catapulted into the next county, right as you're nodding off.

    Re no UCR for head tether: we wanted to use lighter line than Amsteel to convey that the head tether is not meant to be a heavy load-bearing line, instead only a light taco insurance policy. That lighter line is harder to splice either into a UCR or even fixed loop, and since it is not meant to be tightened up anyway, leaving it loose lets the user tie any old loose knot, leaving the tether a bit slack.

    If this all seems a bit too much social engineering, we agree. We plan a transition to a different line/connector scheme. What's shipping now is frankly a bottleneck in our production process, and UCRs are an ultralight solution in a non-ultralight product that, while elegant, is not familiar enough to civilians to be the best default. Can't say more now: still being worked out.

    Re buzz: it's been amazing. This and the main Tensahedron Stand thread seem to have racked up a higher view count and posting rate than most anything comparable over the last year.
    I'm not sure if some of the stands have holes that need enlarging in order for a straight button to fit through? On mine, there were just a couple holes where a slightly skewed button would not fit through. So I remedied that by straightening the buttons. I did not adjust the holes in any way. But I believe you're wise in pointing out that basically just deburring the hole using a simple tapered screwdriver is all that is needed, and that filing the hole might actually risk enlarging it more than necessary, which would have somewhat counterproductive results - the jiggle you described.

    I've contemplated splicing a new head tether of my own using the same 2.2 Zing-It that Tensa uses in production (with fixed loop at each end, UCR adjustability, and the same type of shock cord tensioner used on the production model). Since I've not even used the head tether, it's not a high priority; I just like splicing stuff.

  8. #608
    cmc4free's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Latherdome View Post
    That's our mission: solve problems visible from space.
    What have you got in the works for receding Arctic sea ice?

    .... almost forgot your primary mode of transportation is bicycle. Check!

  9. #609
    Senior Member Crazytown3's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by curlymaple42 View Post
    So you are running a CRL correct? So you connect one end right up tight and then the other end you run over and what attach the CRL to a ground stake out the tether with a prussic?
    Correct, I use a Dutchware CRL, with one end tethered to the orange screw on the foot end, and the other of the tarp tethered to the orange screw on the head end. You could just as easily tether to staked out hiking poles, or something. It is a 'little bit' wonky with a 12' tarp, but it works. 11' is the ideal length I think.

  10. #610
    curlymaple42's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Crazytown3 View Post
    Correct, I use a Dutchware CRL, with one end tethered to the orange screw on the foot end, and the other of the tarp tethered to the orange screw on the head end. You could just as easily tether to staked out hiking poles, or something. It is a 'little bit' wonky with a 12' tarp, but it works. 11' is the ideal length I think.
    Ok thank you! Time for some more tweakage!! And maybe an 11' tarp...

    Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
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