The toggles being used now are just the start. If you look at the pictures the length on the toggles can be reduced and I sure will be. In theory a 1" wood dowel piece will work if the hole is drilled slightly off center as the wrap is right next to the center hole. actually toggle could be smaller than an inch. Potential
Yosemite Sam: Are you trying to make me look a fool?
Bugs: You don't need me to make you look like a fool.
Yosemite Sam: Yer deerrrnnn right I don't!
To minimize the weakening of the toggle that inevitably results from drilling a hole in it, drill the smallest hole possible. I tried to get away with a 9/64 hole for 7/64 Amsteel but needed to go up to 5/32. 5/32 works fine but there is no way you're going to get a loop or reversed bury through it. That has the benefit of keeping the toggle from slipping off for its own private traipse through the piney woods where it will most assuredly will be eaten by an armadillo never to be seen again. At least not in solid form. The down side is that you'll have to make your second loop (locked brummel) having access to only the free end of the line because after the first loop you have to thread the toggle on and you'll never get that armadillolunchwannabe toggle through the Amsteel to make the second loop.
Here's how to do that. http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/s...hlight=brummel
The sliding aspect of the toggle gives microadjustability (up or down ) more easily than the whoopie, AND you can adjust it under load to a greater degree than the whoopie, but you still have to support much of the load while you're making the adjustment.
As mentioned before, the smaller the HITT the stronger the toggle. (nice use of the new acronym Timberrr)
I'm just thinking here (uh oh ) but after looking at the rig in action it seems that there is less bite on the line than the compression rings because the hold is from either A) two overlaps of the clove hitch or B) one overlap of a half hitch and the friction of the toggle. Ergo, this should be stronger and safer than holding by compression between two rings.
Another thought. The line wrapped around the toggle is trying to compress the perimeter of the toggle. That is, it's trying to make a 1" diameter toggle into a 3/4" diameter toggle. Therefore, wouldn't a tube be more resistant, i.e. stronger, than a solid toggle? Not to mention lighter.
Engineers, what say ye?
Last edited by Timberrr; 02-01-2013 at 12:43.
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So many trees, so little time...
Setup MicroRope - adjustable aluminum slides
looking from 03:00
Are we running from the original because of a single failure? A failure that could easily have been caused by an existing flaw or damage? Not ready to give up on the dowel just yet...that elegant simplicity is just too seductive.
Dave
"Loneliness is the poverty of self; solitude is the richness of self."~~~May Sarton
Don't run! Just start out with a cushion.
Mike
"Life is a Project!"
It's worth noting, too, that the use of Dynaglide for hammock suspensions has always been regarded as pushing the envelope. Flirting with the edge is not without risks.
Dave
"Loneliness is the poverty of self; solitude is the richness of self."~~~May Sarton
How about using the handle of the pull cord of the lawn mower, chain saw, etc.
At 6:25 in this video, you can see another danger of this system. The toggle is turned almost parallel to the suspension rope and loop. If the end of the toddle turns to be over the loop "opening", the loop would likely pop right off...especially when only partially loaded while entering the hammock. The OP's larger diameter toggle would stand a better chance of not passing through the loop, but the possibility is still there.
With webbing and a MSH, the toggle tends to stay aligned perpendicular to the suspension.
As you make the toggle shorter, the chance of the loop coming off (or the toggle turning and passing through) increases.
Last edited by gmcttr; 02-01-2013 at 14:32.
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