Starting DIY Top-Quilt - Questions!

**Arothian** · 12-09-2012, 14:16

Hello everyone,

So I am in the mood to make a top quilt and I've acquired the materials for it, but I'm kinda stuck between two different designs.

The two designs I'm looking at:

Questions

I see most of the cottage makers using the traditional design. Is there any negatives to the Karo-Step design since TeeDee posted his that I should be aware of?
Any problems people have had with the 'box design' for the outer edges?
How well does a drawcord work on the foot end with a box design? Seems like it wouldn't close up as nice.
I'm having trouble envisioning the channels for the draw cords. I'm thinking that the drawcord channel needs to be sewed when your sewing the top and bottom shell together pre filling. This is probably a dumb question
Has anyone specifically made either of these designs? How well did you like it?

Thanks in advance...I'll report what I eventually decided and how well it turns out!

**doogie** · 12-10-2012, 09:05

1) I went with the traditional design, and have been happy with the results. It has replaced my traditional bag when ground dwelling too. The only down side to the Karo is that the down can shift, the baffles just impede the movement, but don't stop it.
2) I believe that I am the outer edge box designer; no issues after 6 or so nights of use.
3) I used the drawcord at the bottom and omni-tape for the foot box. The drawcord works very well, but I would probably go with just some ties instead of the omni-tape if I were to do it again. I think the closure would be more than enough and more comfortable when used open, and I have had a little snagging of the socks. I'll see if I can remember to post some photos of how tight the drawcord closes.
4) I closed off the final foot baffle and just left enough fabric to form the drawstring channel. If I remember correctly I sewed the channel with the drawstring inside, since I knew it was going to be a pain to fish it through such a tiny channel.
5) Love it. My results if you didn't see it yet:
http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=56604

**dragon360** · 12-10-2012, 10:36

doogie - really interesting idea of taping those baffles in!

**doogie** · 12-10-2012, 11:00

Originally Posted by dragon360

doogie - really interesting idea of taping those baffles in!

It worked well, just skim the edge of the tape while sewing, you don't want to gum up your needle. That said, the few times I wandered didn't cause any issues. I suspect the low adhesive of the painters tape may have helped, I also kept on using the same few pieces of tape.

**Arothian** · 12-10-2012, 13:09

Thanks for the info doogie! Your thread has been a big help as I've researched this project.

**doogie** · 12-10-2012, 20:41

I posted my footbox detail in my project thread here

**Arothian** · 12-10-2012, 21:02

Originally Posted by doogie

I posted my footbox detail in my project thread here

That's really helpful! Thank you

**Lupus** · 12-10-2012, 21:25

Hope I'm not hijacking your thread.

Doogie, given the chance, would you go with a sewn footbox design instead? If not, why?

**Catavarie** · 12-10-2012, 22:31

My TQ is a DIY Karo design. IMO, it was easier to sew together than my UQ (traditional design) because instead of having to do long straight stiches the baffles are only a few inches at a time. Laying them out takes a bit of time as does pinning them all down in place, but no more than doing the same with full length baffles. As for filling with down, the karo was much quicker since I was using bulk down from a pillow instead of those neat little 1 ounce packages you can get from our vendors. I left an opening in on end just big enought o stuff the down in. Put allt he down I wanted into the hole and stitched it closed. A few good shakes to spread out the down and I was done. After making a karo step once I don't see why I would ever want to go back to full length baffles.

**MAD777** · 12-10-2012, 22:59

I've dine both and here is my take in it.
Karo Step if the average thickness if your quilt is less than 2".
Conventional straight baffles if it is more than 2".

My reason is that thin quilts would require very closely spaced baffles and the Karo method will save a significant amount of sewing. However, thicker quilts don't need the baffles spaced closely so you don't save all that much and I believe a conventional quilt controls the down better and is therefore warmer.