A sliding toggle (Yes, another suspension idea)

**Gresh** · 02-01-2013, 04:31

Originally Posted by oldgringo

Awrighty! Gumbo was a test pilot...now we got us a crash test dummy!

In the short time I've been hammock camping, nothing says "I wonder if this will work" like throwing the better part of 400 lbs of nap-deficient redneck at it.

As God is my witness, I'll test this bad boy this weekend. 5' dog bones are made up, just gotta cobble up some toggles and it'll be go time.

(when the vibration sensors detect seismic activity in Oklahoma, just know that one of my test-toggles didn't pass muster.)

**Moel Siabod** · 02-01-2013, 05:07

Any word from Grizz yet?

**Tendertoe** · 02-01-2013, 06:38

Originally Posted by MAD777

There may be a danger here. Correct me if I'm wrong: The continuous loop goes around the other suspension line with a radius equal to 1/2 the diameter of the line. That sounds like the situation that Tendertoe had above. Rope in general, even dyneema, is weakened by small radii. This is what occurs in a knot, also.

Looping a suspension line over a Marlin spike hitch made of a 1" tree strap is a much more gentle radius. Best keep a cushion handy during initial testing!

Very good point. I was initially thinking about the suspension in the equation only. It is passing over the toggle and is tied off to the toggle - both relatively large radii - no real issue.

The continuous loop of the hammock, however, is resting solely on the suspension line; not on the knot, not on the toggle.

I believe MAD is right. I'd love to know the numbers but I'm beginning to doubt the safety margin here considering I've already tested a similar approach to failure.

BE CAREFUL TESTING OUT THERE!

**MedicineMan** · 02-01-2013, 06:46

amsteel continuous loop from hammock over the toggle and resting on an amsteel line.....where is the problem here? We put amsteel through the sewn eye of a tree hugger with no worries.......

**oldgringo** · 02-01-2013, 06:46

Originally Posted by Tendertoe

Very good point. I was initially thinking about the suspension in the equation only. It is passing over the toggle and is tied off to the toggle - both relatively large radii - no real issue.

The continuous loop of the hammock, however, is resting solely on the suspension line; not on the knot, not on the toggle.

I believe MAD is right. I'd love to know the numbers but I'm beginning to doubt the safety margin here considering I've already tested a similar approach to failure.

BE CAREFUL TESTING OUT THERE!

Making the continuous loop out of 1/8" Amsteel ups the margin considerably, w/o much weight penalty.

**gargoyle** · 02-01-2013, 06:54

Cool innovation. I am certainly loving the idea, and the creativity...
But,
I'm with the others on the tight radius, and possible pinchpoints nearest the toggle.

Not to long ago, we did away with rings (compression on the line caused flat spots and potentially weak areas in the line). This technique relies on the same principal, although the toggle may create a softer pinchpoint, it is still there.

**Tendertoe** · 02-01-2013, 08:04

Originally Posted by oldgringo

Making the continuous loop out of 1/8" Amsteel ups the margin considerably, w/o much weight penalty.

Agreed, as I mentioned in my testing of a similar method, 7/64 Amsteel even did fine. Dynaglide, however, ended up in 2 pieces with me on my butt.

**rocketBoy** · 02-01-2013, 08:21

What about just using a marlinspike hitch around a standard toggle? It wouldn't be quite as convenient for adjustments since it wouldn't have the pulley effect but it would eliminate the need for a custom toggle. The pinching would probably be about the same though... The marlinespike hitch works well in webbing but I haven't had any experience using it in Amsteel. thoughts?

**gargoyle** · 02-01-2013, 08:33

rocketboy
Should work.
I see the sliding aspect of the "hole in the toggle" or (h.i.t.t.) (hah I created a new acronym!!!!) being no different than adjusting the msp/toggle along the length of the cord.

Simply pull the main suspension thru the hammock's loop to the desired hiegth, pinch the main line, tie the msp and be done. Then when its time to remove or re-adjust, pull the toggle.

The whoopie helps with micro adjustments, that is the beauty of it.
Either the h.i.t.t. or msp/toggle would have to hitched and rehitched to allow for any micro adjustment.

Edit..the pinchpoint will still be there just behind the toggle.

**MAD777** · 02-01-2013, 08:53

Hey! How about using a PVC "T" connector for the toggle? Drill the hole through the cross piece but loop the cont. loop over the stem part of the "T" and the suspension line.

I'm stuck in an airport right now with no access to Amsteel.
That will teach me to always pack Amsteel in my carry-on!