1/2 UQ for Bridge and Clark hammocks

**GrizzlyAdams** · 01-01-2008, 10:55

Great idea.

On the bridge, do you run shock cord from corner of quilt to corner of hammock?

Just for fun I'm going to try hanging a JRB Nest essentially folded in half, doubled up at the top, to double the loft under my torso.

but baffles are still baffling.

Grizz

**skippy** · 01-01-2008, 11:06

thanks for the info,let me know how warm it keeps you.
I may try to make one

**hangnout** · 01-01-2008, 11:13

On the bridge, do you run shock cord from corner of quilt to corner of hammock

I run the shockcord thru the channel then attached the shockcord to each end of the hammock just to test. This allowed me to slide the quilt to where I needed it and will help find the right place to put tabs. I am going to sew a couple small tabs on each side of the bridge and attach it there for a permanent solution.

**schrochem** · 01-01-2008, 11:19

Grizz,
I remember making my first quilt and being baffled with the baffles also. The thing that cleared it up was seeing how the baffles 'hang' after they are sewn on the first piece. So I attached a drawing that might help. This is looking at it from a profile view. The horizontal piece would be the top part of the quilt. The vertical lines are the baffles. The red is how you would stitch the baffle to the top piece. So once you have the baffles stitched to the top piece they will hang down like this. Then you need to attach them to the bottom piece the same way. Hope that helps.

**hangnout** · 01-01-2008, 12:06

This was my first DIY UQ. The smaller size made it easier and the dissapearing markers are a must IMO. When you mark the main peices of material for the baffles I made two lines, the exact sew line and another one that accounted for the amount of material from the edge of the baffle material to the sew line. I used this last line as the guide to stay straight. On the baffle just mark your sew line and keep it on track with your needle.

P.S. Don't sew the baffle all the way too the edge if you have a shockcord channel and don't ask me how I know this

**GrizzlyAdams** · 01-01-2008, 12:19

Originally Posted by schrochem

Grizz,
I remember making my first quilt and being baffled with the baffles also. The thing that cleared it up was seeing how the baffles 'hang' after they are sewn on the first piece. So I attached a drawing that might help. This is looking at it from a profile view. The horizontal piece would be the top part of the quilt. The vertical lines are the baffles. The red is how you would stitch the baffle to the top piece. So once you have the baffles stitched to the top piece they will hang down like this. Then you need to attach them to the bottom piece the same way. Hope that helps.

ah, baffles de-baffled!

Thanks

Grizz

**GrizzlyAdams** · 01-01-2008, 13:05

Speer's bags of down run 3 oz per bag. 3 bags seems too much for your reported weight, and 2 bags too little (assuming 1.1 oz fabric). Or is the fabric 1.9 oz (which makes 2 bags just about right).

thanks

Grizz

**hangnout** · 01-01-2008, 13:15

The bottom is 1.9 (because that is what I had) and the rest 1.1oz. 6 oz of down . I put about 1.4 in the side baffles and the rest in the middle. I ordered 6oz and it came in one bag. I would ask for 3oz bags if I made another one.

**schrochem** · 01-01-2008, 13:21

c'mon Grizz do the math!

if you do the same as hangnout you'll want 3"X36X36 for volume =3888
With 900ci/oz down rating you need 3888/900= 4.32oz
Most people overstuff 10-20%....
You could round it up to 6oz and that would give you around 4" of thickness.
Be sure to make your baffles 'tall' enough to accommodate whatever amount you choose.

**hangnout** · 01-01-2008, 13:51

yep, schrochem is dead on. When I give it time to fully loft laying loose it will reach 4". I wanted to make sure I had a full 3" + when in use. The 900 is a high rating so used 825 in my calculations. I would rather put it a little bit too much to start with on my first one.