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  1. #111
    Senior Member Redpath's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dchristensen View Post
    How about using the handle of the pull cord of the lawn mower, chain saw, etc.
    How will I start my chainsaw?
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  2. #112
    Senior Member Gresh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Redpath View Post
    How will I start my chainsaw?
    The force?
    I used to be a somebody, now I just camp.

  3. #113
    Senior Member Timberrr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gmcttr View Post
    The overlap compression on the amsteel happens before the half hitch, putting the full compressive force in one spot. The half hitch adds a small amount of holding force after that happens.
    Uh... maybe. I'm looking at one right now. The first overlap is just below where the line exits the toggle; it comes out, goes down and around the toggle and then under itself to create the first compression point. (I'm using stock PVC so the smoothness precludes any friction that would prevent slippage.) Because it's slipping it seems to my non-engineer trained mind that it's not holding as well - that is, not compressing as much as rings. The small amount of additional compression / hold that you get with the second half hitch seems to be enough to hold tight. My conclusion (FWIW ) is that the weakening caused by the single point compression of rings is lessened somewhat because there's less compression (maybe 2/3 that of the rings) at the first overlap and even less at the second (maybe 1/3). The total compression may be the same because the total grip is the same, but it's spread out just a bit more. And it's soft material doing the compression so both parts would yield - as opposed to metal rings.
    Or I could just be totally goofy.
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  4. #114
    Senior Member Timberrr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dchristensen View Post
    How about using the handle of the pull cord of the lawn mower, chain saw, etc.
    How well do you think the the hitch would hold considering the shape of the handle?
    If you're using Amsteel or other cord from your hammock then I think the T-shaped PVC is a very neat solution. If you're using a 'biner like Gumbo & I use (because we don't care about weight ) then a straight toggle is just fine.
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  5. #115
    Senior Member Timberrr's Avatar
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  6. #116
    Senior Member Tendertoe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MAD777 View Post
    Don't run! Just start out with a cushion.
    +1

    I think there's quite a bit of merit here -just approach with caution especially if using smaller diameter cordage.

    I like the T shaped tubing idea (be it metal, wood, PVC, etc.) as it would give some symmetry to the setup and would also eliminate the tight radius turn of the continuous loop resting on the suspension line as in the original dowel method.

    The continuous loop would now be resting on the gentle curve of the T shaped toggle.

    I would be a bit nervous though about the continuous loop sliding off though as others have mentioned.

  7. #117
    Senior Member Gresh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Timberrr View Post
    How well do you think the the hitch would hold considering the shape of the handle?
    If you're using Amsteel or other cord from your hammock then I think the T-shaped PVC is a very neat solution. If you're using a 'biner like Gumbo & I use (because we don't care about weight ) then a straight toggle is just fine.
    I think you're looking at two different variables (considering the biner vs. not biner options) like what I saw in your testing pictures. Using the biner, I'd say 100% of the weight is bearing down on the toggle.

    Let's now look at my suspension: I run dogbones off the ends of my hammock. If I take the open end of my dogbone and loop it over the toggle, I suspect the load would probably be more on the Amsteel than on the toggle...this is just one of those things I'm gonna test.

    Am I talking crazy, or does this stand to reason?
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  8. #118
    Senior Member OneThing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MAD777 View Post
    Hey! How about using a PVC "T" connector for the toggle? Drill the hole through the cross piece but loop the cont. loop over the stem part of the "T" and the suspension line.

    I'm stuck in an airport right now with no access to Amsteel.
    That will teach me to always pack Amsteel in my carry-on!
    Do you have any pictures of this. I'm trying to figure it out, but I can't get the full image in my head. Thanks.

  9. #119
    Senior Member Hiknhanger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by OneThing View Post
    Do you have any pictures of this. I'm trying to figure it out, but I can't get the full image in my head. Thanks.
    Here is what I cobbled together last night. I used threaded fittings for extra rigidity since I am a beefier hanger. I used 100 grit sandpaper to rough up the smooth PVC for better grip. I am also playing with an addition to the half hitch to have more grip on the Amsteel. Tests to follow. ImageUploadedByTapatalk1359814311.207675.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1359814334.273600.jpg

  10. #120
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hiknhanger View Post
    I suggest you chamfer the edge of the drilled hole.

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