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  1. #11
    Senior Member HappyHiker's Avatar
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    How about shockcord through the side channels and static line connecting the ends to the hammock? Still keeps the elasticity required and also reduces weight.

  2. #12
    Senior Member turnerminator's Avatar
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    Full length shock cord=for when you miss the hammock edge and squash the UQ to the floor.
    A problem that is directly proportional to the volume of alcohol consumed.


    Another reason for full length Shock cord is when the cold makes it go limp-pulling more through to compensate hits the non-stretchy cord and hey presto, a rigid UQ suspension is born.
    For me, the benefits far outweigh the weight penalties of shock cord.

  3. #13
    Senior Member BillyBob58's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Danalex View Post
    I added full length shock cord to my JRB MW3 UQ, first for use in a BB as my left shoulder was always being exposed as the UQ would move around a bit as I moved. This made it stay up and over my shoulder without any slipping, also worked the same way for my feet. I just tucked them under and the quilt wouldn't slip off. I guess it's a situation of a rectangle quilt attached to an asym hammock.

    Now I use it with my bridge and even though the shoulder exposure isn't a problem I am happy with the way it works there also.
    Please check something for me while I also do some checking to see if my memory on this is correct.

    With your bridge hammock, do the top edges of the UQ snug up against the side of the bridge (BMBH?) hammock, or is there a small gap? If it is snug, can you remember if it was snug on the(sides of) bridge BEFORE you added the full length shock cord?

    Here is my memory which I will try to verify today: With my full length MW4 on my BMBH, there is always a small gap on the sides between the top side of the quilt and the hammock. I have actually added a GripClip and thin shock cord to pull that gap closed. What I have never been sure of is if that effects function in any way, as I have never been cold in this quilt.

    However, if mem serves, when I have placed my synthetic full length shock cord "Yeti" ( torso size, not full length), the quilts top edges are nice and snug up against the hammock sides. It never occurred to me before this thread that it might be the full length shock cord accounting for this. I'll try and check to see if this is indeed a difference.

    As for the exact subject of the OP, "why" bother with full length cord on a full length quilt, would the continuous adjustment capabilities allow for better venting?

  4. #14
    Senior Member JohnSawyer's Avatar
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    My DIY IX UQ started with full-length shock cords, but the darn thing kept gathering and sliding down toward the middle on both ends.

    So, I sewed on corner loops.

    I found the side cords help keep it tight against the hammock, so I added them back, with a small cordlock, I cinch the sides about 2-3", and it seals better...
    "Do or do not, there is no try." -- Yoda


  5. #15
    Senior Member hangnout's Avatar
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    Full length UQ's on a bridge will have a small (cold) gap in the middle if you attach the UQ too high on the hammock. The JRB has loops a couple inches down the corners that lower the attachment point of the UQ. If you attach a full length UQ on a bridge near the spreader bars you will have this cold spot. The UQ is being pulled straight while the hammock is forming an hour glass shape [)(].On a shorter UQ the suspension will follow the lines of the hammock eliminating this issue. You still have to be careful to attach the UQ suspension as close tothe hammock body as possible. The coldest night I have had in a hammock was the first time I used a full length UQ on a bridge. The best solution is to find a way to pull the center in and a narrower UQ is easier to seal. Putting the suspension cord thru the side channels will not hurt or help in this situation.

    Quote Originally Posted by BillyBob58 View Post
    Please check something for me while I also do some checking to see if my memory on this is correct.

    With your bridge hammock, do the top edges of the UQ snug up against the side of the bridge (BMBH?) hammock, or is there a small gap? If it is snug, can you remember if it was snug on the(sides of) bridge BEFORE you added the full length shock cord?

    Here is my memory which I will try to verify today: With my full length MW4 on my BMBH, there is always a small gap on the sides between the top side of the quilt and the hammock. I have actually added a GripClip and thin shock cord to pull that gap closed. What I have never been sure of is if that effects function in any way, as I have never been cold in this quilt.

    However, if mem serves, when I have placed my synthetic full length shock cord "Yeti" ( torso size, not full length), the quilts top edges are nice and snug up against the hammock sides. It never occurred to me before this thread that it might be the full length shock cord accounting for this. I'll try and check to see if this is indeed a difference.

    As for the exact subject of the OP, "why" bother with full length cord on a full length quilt, would the continuous adjustment capabilities allow for better venting?

  6. #16
    Senior Member HappyHiker's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by turnerminator View Post
    Full length shock cord=for when you miss the hammock edge and squash the UQ to the floor.
    A problem that is directly proportional to the volume of alcohol consumed.
    I've almost done that, and no alchohol was involved.

    Another reason for full length Shock cord is when the cold makes it go limp-pulling more through to compensate hits the non-stretchy cord and hey presto, a rigid UQ suspension is born.
    For me, the benefits far outweigh the weight penalties of shock cord.
    Hmmmm - I've experienced the cord going limp, I thought it was the cordlock slipping but maybe not. Might have been the temp (~28 degrees).

  7. #17
    Senior Member Tendertoe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HappyHiker View Post
    Hmmmm - I've experienced the cord going limp, I thought it was the cordlock slipping but maybe not. Might have been the temp (~28 degrees).
    +1 on shockcord slackening in colder temps.

    I've actually incorporated prussics into my UQ suspension to tighten incrementally if need be.

  8. #18
    Senior Member MAD777's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HappyHiker View Post
    How about shockcord through the side channels and static line connecting the ends to the hammock? Still keeps the elasticity required and also reduces weight.
    This is exactly what I do: shock cord inside the quilt channels and 1.75mm Zing-it for the rest of the UQ suspension.

    I get some weight savings but still have the functionality where it's needed.
    Mike
    "Life is a Project!"

  9. #19
    Senior Member Knotty's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DemostiX View Post
    My question is only about what you exclude in your second paragraph, the part that is acting as rails. I can understand that only makers for gram-counters, a Z-packs, would swap out the length of shock cord in the channel for a length of something lighter, but that is exactly what I am driving at, if an ounce can be saved and nothing at all lost. (I might even bury the shock cord in a nice continous splice.)

    I'm much taken with your observation-- with others -- of the sealing problem of UQ's. I'm trying to appreciate just what shock cord is supposed to do, as obliquely as the forces of the UQ suspension are applied. Before butchering a fine continuous stretch of shock cord on a full length UQ, I wondered what functionality I'd be giving up.

    RAB closes the stuff sack for the Quantum top-bag with shock cord, including a very nice (or over-engineered) stress-stopper and then a keeper for that stress-stopper. Wow, no expense spared. Then, of the shock cord, I wondered: "Why? What need does this meet? In my limited experience, I haven't noticed shock cord on a stuff sack closure before. What did I miss out on? "
    My reasons for a hybrid bungee/rope suspension were twofold. First, I didn't have enough bungee for the mammoth sized Brazilian. Second, the longer the bungee the "softer" the spring, which can result in sag. Amsteel runs thru the UQ channels, selected to avoid abrasion of the fabric. My thinking is that as long as part of the UQ suspension has stretch it should provide the same result as an all bungee system.

    For the end channels I have some UQs with bungees and others without. In theory and according to the Jacks you shouldn't need stretch in the end channels because the suspension bungees provide the needed movement. In practice I find that having bungees in there just works better. But still not good enough, which is why I've been suggesting the need for draft tubes.
    Knotty
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  10. #20
    Senior Member BillyBob58's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hangnout View Post
    Full length UQ's on a bridge will have a small (cold) gap in the middle if you attach the UQ too high on the hammock. The JRB has loops a couple inches down the corners that lower the attachment point of the UQ. If you attach a full length UQ on a bridge near the spreader bars you will have this cold spot. The UQ is being pulled straight while the hammock is forming an hour glass shape [)(].On a shorter UQ the suspension will follow the lines of the hammock eliminating this issue. You still have to be careful to attach the UQ suspension as close tothe hammock body as possible. The coldest night I have had in a hammock was the first time I used a full length UQ on a bridge. The best solution is to find a way to pull the center in and a narrower UQ is easier to seal. Putting the suspension cord thru the side channels will not hurt or help in this situation.
    When attaching the full length JRB MW4 to the loops on the JRB BMBH exactly as per JRB directions, I still have the gap on the sides, though I have neve been cold. Just in case, I often ( but not always) run a piece of shockcord over the hammock connecting one side of the quilt to the other. This pretty much pulls the quilt into the hammock in the middle.

    For whatever the reason, this does not happen with the shorter Yeti quilt with full length shock cord. No gap. But maybe like you say it is just because the quilt is shorter.

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