I've been using a length of 'florist wire', works well. Fold a 20 inch piece in half, feed the fold section thru the rope, guide it thru the core, exit. Lace cord into the folded eye and pull thru.
I've been using a length of 'florist wire', works well. Fold a 20 inch piece in half, feed the fold section thru the rope, guide it thru the core, exit. Lace cord into the folded eye and pull thru.
Ambulo tua ambulo.
I use some very fine wire that I bought at a craft strore doubled over (its green too!)and feed the folded end down the line. I stretch the channel first with a crochet needle also bought at a crafts store. It is a very tiny crochet needle. I can't "push" with my setup like a real fid. Honestly not having the crochet part would be better because it sometimes snags fibers a little when you pull it back. Its kind of a one way fid I saw some tables about fid lenghts and bury distances and recognize that I am not following the set standards and probably compensate by burying a little longer than I need to.
What you need is a knitting needle...
http://www.joann.com/joann/catalog/p...DID=xprd582024
Telescoping antennas from old portable radios (ghetto blasters) are a good source of polished, thin-wall tubing in various diameters. Good for a tubular fids.
I use a Dritz loop turner (product # 647). You can Google "Dritz 647" or go directly to Amazon with the same search, where you'll find it for under $4.00. It works like the tiny splicing tools made for hollow braid fishing line or kite line, but it's the perfect size for 7/64 Amsteel. It also works on NER Dynaglide (but not quite as easily).
Just wrestled with this problem myself and ended up using a "yarn needle" (less than a buck at Walmart) to make 6 whoopies from 7/64 Amsteel. It was quick work and the slings came out perfect.
I pre-tapered the ends and the tapered part fit in the needle's eye slick.
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