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  1. #11
    Senior Member FanaticFringer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by funbun View Post
    Na dude. You said 400 lbs? Are you and your kid going to be sleeping in the same hammock. If so, that's a bad idea. Just make two hammocks: one for you and one for your kid. The kid can learn some valuable skill in knot tying by having his own hammock.

    I would go with Polyester webbing. 3500 lbs breaking strength. You gonna need it if you've got 400 lbs to support. I used polester webing for a year and it finally started tearing around the rings. So I upgraded to polyester. Polyester doesn stretch anywhere near as much as polypro.

    Also forget 1200 strength rope go ahead get the 1900 lbs stuff or above.

    Fabric? I'd use two layers of 1.9 ounce ripstop. Your talking 400 lbs here man, not 250 or 260 lbs.

    If you want to stay alive, overengineer the thing. Then try to cut down weight.
    Forget those stinking knots. Go with the ring/buckle supports and figure 9 tarp tensioners.
    http://www.rei.com/online/store/Prod..._cat=undefined
    Last edited by FanaticFringer; 05-29-2007 at 20:38.
    "Every day above ground is a good day"

  2. #12
    New Member
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    Apr 2007
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    Both of the hammocks I made so far as tests have been whipped, not knotted.

    The doubled material one is likely stronger, and somewhat redundant. When it's under tension each is supporting half the load. It's unlikely though that if one fails the other will be enough to keep you up, the second then would have to support the full weight.

    I also used polyester webbing rated at 1500 lbs for the supports on the doubled one, using a larkshead just below the whipping.

    On the 1.9oz version I am currently using the ringbuckle system. The ringbuckles are attached to the same rope which makes up the whipping, using something similar to a sailor's whipping, but with an overhand knot underneath the whipping itself. The ridgeline is attached to the other end of the whipping rope in pretty much the same manner. I've had no issues with this as yet, though I've only been using it for a few weeks. Long term durability is still in question for the integrated support/whipping that I'm using right now.

    I'm still not sure I like the ring buckle system as yet. I'm trying to find a technique for hanging/tying it up that is as easy to undo as it is to tie. I'm currently thinking the ringbuckles with the webbing going completely through both rings, then putting a loop through the locking ring so that I can simply yank it and it will slip out. I would tie the loop around the tensioned support in a slipped overhand knot.

    I'll have to see if I can find the cord for my camera and get some pictures posted at some time to better show what I'm explaining. Having two people in the hammock wasn't the most comfortable of conditions, but it could be done pretty well if you're both on your side.

  3. #13
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by FanaticFringer View Post
    Forget those stinking knots. Go with the ring/buckle supports and figure 9 tarp tensioners.
    http://www.rei.com/online/store/Prod..._cat=undefined
    You were joking right? 50 lb load limit? There is now way in the world I'm gonna try that tarp tensioner. It's already a big enough risk to run Dual Ring but that? Na, I trust the knots. I do use ring, btw.
    Last edited by funbun; 05-30-2007 at 01:08.

  4. #14
    Senior Member angrysparrow's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by funbun View Post
    You were joking right? 50 lb load limit? There is now way in the world I'm gonna try that tarp tensioner. It's already a big enough risk to run Dual Ring but that? Na, I trust the knots. I do use ring, btw.
    I'm sure he meant using the figure-9's for hanging the tarp seperately, not the hammock itself. That's what I use them for, and they work quite nicely.

  5. #15
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by angrysparrow View Post
    I'm sure he meant using the figure-9's for hanging the tarp seperately, not the hammock itself. That's what I use them for, and they work quite nicely.
    Okay, that makes sense. Do they tear into the rope at all?

  6. #16
    Senior Member blackbishop351's Avatar
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    Not that I've seen, and I've been using them for a while now. Including two trips with 30+ mph static winds. In fact on one trip (remember this one, Tim?) the wind pulled two of my MSR Groundhog stakes out of the solid-frozen ground...no damage to my tarp or tie-out cords though. As far as I can tell, the 9's didn't even slip.
    "Physics is the only true science. All else is stamp collecting." - J. J. Thompson

  7. #17
    Senior Member Hooch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by funbun View Post
    Okay, that makes sense. Do they tear into the rope at all?
    In my limited experience with them, no.
    "If you play a Nicleback song backwards, you'll hear messages from the devil. Even worse, if you play it forward, you'll hear Nickleback." - Dave Grohl

  8. #18
    Senior Member
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    Elmira, NY
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    Quote Originally Posted by funbun View Post
    Okay, that makes sense. Do they tear into the rope at all?
    I use the plastic line tensioners from REI with my tarp and they work great. Those metal one's have a fairly sharp looking point. I was concerned about it poking a hole in my netting or hammock when stuffed in the sack.

    Miguel

  9. #19
    Senior Member angrysparrow's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Miguel View Post
    I use the plastic line tensioners from REI with my tarp and they work great. Those metal one's have a fairly sharp looking point. I was concerned about it poking a hole in my netting or hammock when stuffed in the sack.
    They aren't that sharp. Also, I agree with the above posts that the 9's aren't really abrasive to the rope.

  10. #20
    Senior Member tight-wad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by spchtr View Post

    I'm still not sure I like the ring buckle system as yet. I'm trying to find a technique for hanging/tying it up that is as easy to undo as it is to tie. I'm currently thinking the ringbuckles with the webbing going completely through both rings, then putting a loop through the locking ring so that I can simply yank it and it will slip out. I would tie the loop around the tensioned support in a slipped overhand knot.
    Use a strong biner on the end of the support rope, leave the webbing in the buckles. Loop the support rope with the biner around the tree as many times as necessary to take up the slack. Clip the biner, adjust at the ring as necessary. To undo, just unclip the biner, and roll it all up into your preferred snakeskin, bishop bag, ... Really easy.

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