View Full Version : h_ngm_n - DIY Gear Plan
Hey Folks.
I want to throw my ideas (nothing original here) out to the masses to get advice from those who have tread before me. Just getting started in this game and one of the things that really drew me to it was the fact that most everything required can be DIY'd. Shoot, if I could make the fabric, insulation, and cord I would!
For my initial setup I'm attempting:
Hammock
1.0 oz Hyper D – Olive Drab (4y) = 10' - 9.5' finished length x 4.75' width (I'm only about 5'7", 170lbs..all muscle :thumbdown:, so I'm leaning towards the 9.5' length. I'll play around w/ some lengths before making the final cuts though)
Tarp
1.1 oz (1.24 oz coated) Silnylon – Coyote Brown (8y) = see pic
97328 97329
I used the Winter Tarp design posted on D.I.Y GEAR SUPPLY, brought it in CAD and scaled it proper from their design (second pic above) and scaled everything to maximize the approximate 10'x12' unhemmed/unflat-felled starting size.
Under Quilt
1.1 oz calendered ripstop nylon – Black (3y)
1.1 oz calendered ripstop nylon – Charcoal Gray (3y)
Primaloft Gold – 3oz/sq yd – (6y)
maybe emergency blanket on bottom of quilt (need advice on this)
I have enough material to make a full length (for me) underquilt. I'd like some input on this though. Should I do full, 3/4, or 1/2. I'm kind of leaning towards full so I don't have to mess w/ a pad under my feet/calves, but I'm no expert. Shooting for something like Sandman614 is doing with his Apex Underquilt (sorry don't know how to link to other posts yet), which came from sclittlefield's IX Underquilt post.
I've never worked with this kind of stuff before and was a little concerned about the PL, but after getting it yesterday I'm confident it isn't going to be that bad to work with. It holds its sheet form pretty good and it came w/ a layer of thin cloth material on one side that I'll probably leave on as it helps its form. Also thinking of ways to secure it w/o having to do the quilting loops. The extra effort in looping isn't a big deal to me, I just want a "cleaner" look on the outside of the quilt. Thinking of using no-seum strips around perimeter and also form a grid. I could quilt loop the no-seum grid/PL and the sew it between the nylon. The weight of the no-seum would be negligible to me. Oh also thinking of putting an emergency blanket layer in there too. Thoughts?
That's enough for now. When I'm satisfied w/ the design, I'll probably start another post for each item just to keep things separate and make it easier for people interested to follow along. Thanks in advance.
Looks like you have a good plan. I personally use the 3/4 length under quilt and find it to be perfect, even with a pad under my feet. I guess I couldn't justify the additional bulk of a full size.
My comments.
Hammock - I'm 5'9" and love my 11' DIY hammock, although my next one I will try a 10.5' to see if it's okay. I don't think I will go shorter than that.
Tarp - Double check your amount of fabric. I guess you are okay if you go with a shorter hammock, but I made my winter tarp according to DIY Gear Supply plans (9 yards of fabric) and I love it. It's nice to have the extra room when you have it all closed up.
Underquilt - I would not put and emergency blanket layer inside the quilt. I think it will cause condensation issues. You can always place one in between the underquilt and the hammock in extreme conditions. You can probably get by with 2 yards each for the inside and outside layers, but some extra fabric is nice for stuff sacks and other small projects.
Thanks for the responses.
RedStix - While not overly concerned w/ added bulk of a full size, I don't necessarily want it either. If I go full, I can always take off some length if I find it doesn't really benefit. I'll ponder this some more.
doogie - Yeah...10.5' is probably where I'll end up based on a lot of other stuff I've read. Again, will play with different lengths before committing. Regarding tarp, I could have probably done better w/ 9 yards but I can always reduce the angle from the corners to the ridgeline and have any length I want up to 12'ish. Does any know if that angle is necessary or can I just have the ends perpendicular to the ridge. 10-4 on emergency blanket. Probably better to leave it out than deal with moisture problems.
Put my order in yesterday w/ Dutch for suspension gear. Order was shipped yesterday and is expected to arrive tomorrow! That's fantastic service Dutch!
So my order consisted of:
2x Speed Hooks - Hammock
2x - 7' 7/64 amsteel Leaders - Hammock
180' Spool of Zing-it - Hammock Ridgeline, Tarp Ridgeline (not sure on CRL or not yet), tie outs, etc.
2x Tarp Fleaz - Tarp
2x Ti D-Rings - Tarp
I've got tons of straps for tree wraps. And will probably try to make tarp tensioners out of shockcord for now.
Question. Have I missed anything and do most tarps have D-rings on all tie out points. I'm just thinking of using them on the ridgeline, with the other bare loops of fabric for the corners. I wouldn't think the D-rings on the corners are necessary. Probably not really needed for the ridgeline either, just might help facilitate hanging.
I hope you have some continuous loops for the speed hooks to connect to your hammock.
You should be fine with just rings on the ridgeline. I have rings on all of my tieouts. I like them for porch mode. You can check out my videos on my tarp ridgeline setup. I have been using it for 3 years and still love it. Just substitute the new fleas for the flyz in my video, but you would need a dutch hook. I am using this method (https://www.hammockforums.net/forum/showthread.php/25052-My-tarp-guy-lines) for tieouts and really like it. You would need some of the line locks for it as well as shock cord. It's a good thing that Dutch's shipping is reasonable :)
Thanks doogie...or should I say PaCampingDad. I've definitely checked out several of your videos before. Appreciate all the work!
I was planning on making continuous loops from the zing it.
I like the line lock method. I think I'll definitely use it in order to simplify securing the 8 tie outs. Much appreciated.
The Speed hooks are designed for 7/64" amsteel. I guess that you could use something smaller, but most of the ultralight suspension folks use dynaglide to make their whoopies or UCRs. I have not heard of anyone using lash-it or zing-it for suspension. If you do, report your success/failure.
I only use the line locks on the 4 main tie outs, and have a piece of shock cord with a clip attached to the doors. I rarely stake them down, but instead clip it to the opposite corner (door closed) or to the side pull out (door open). I will sometimes stake a door out to act as a wind break on one side while still allowing easy entry.
HYOH and take some photos.
doogie. I have 7/64 amsteel for my hammock suspension leader which is what I'll run through the speed hook coming from the tree strap. The zing it will be the continuous loop coming off the hammock end which the speed hook "hooks" to. Not taking into account a loss in strength from splicing, but Zing is rated at 400# so should hold me. I thought I have read posts of people using Zing for suspension with success. Anyway. Testing will take place in the controlled conditions of the backyard, so I'll make sure to hang over non-pointy objects in case of failure.
Ok. Got me worried and dug around some more on forum. Probably should go with amsteel instead of zing it for CLs. It may hold but chances of failure are increased, so not worth it. Thanks doogie.
SilvrSurfr
11-20-2014, 13:25
Ok. Got me worried and dug around some more on forum. Probably should go with amsteel instead of zing it for CLs. It may hold but chances of failure are increased, so not worth it. Thanks doogie.
Wise move. I like a minimum 5 to 1 weight/breaking strength ratio, even 10 to 1. I'm just not much of a risk taker when it comes to staying off the ground.
Yes the weight savings is not enough for me to play with. Check the link below if you have not. It's amazing how fast the forces rise when you reduce your hang angle. I have seen some photos of people in the 15 degree range. At 200 pounds total for person and all gear in the hammock you are dealing with 386 pounds on the line....and that is static force, shift around and the forces will spike much higher. I try to get the 30 degree rule, but have gone shallower on occasion.
http://theultimatehang.com/hammock-hang-calculator/
Great. Thanks guys. That calculator is pretty cool. Yep..shooting for 30degree too with the hammock ridgeline.
Looks like you've got yourself a plan.
I agree with others that either a 10.5' hammock or an 11' hammock is going to be most comfortable. Depending on your shoulder width, though, you can cut that down on length to ~54" pretty easily to save weight (remember that ~4" of fabric off of the sides of a 10.5" hammock equals 504 square inches, while 6" off the end of a 58" wide hammock only equals 348 square inches; you get the most weight savings by cutting off the long sides). I prefer a 56" wide hammock, but I'm 6' and ~195 lbs with fairly broad shoulders.
As others have mentioned, the lightest weight suspensions that I'll trust over time are made out of 7/64" Amsteel; the forces involved get to be a bit much, otherwise.
I'd avoid putting an e-blanket layer in your underquilt. If you want to play around with vapor barriers, more power to you. However, given their unforgiving trickiness in colder weather, I would make it a separate component rather than integrating a vapor barrier into my underquilt.
Hope it helps!
Thanks for the reply FLRider. It seems like most consensus on the e blanket is no. I've already thought of a work around to have it available if need be. Plus it will still work for its intended purpose. I'll start with 11' on the hammock and work from there.
You guys have any input on the tarp design. I'm thinking more about not really doing the cat cuts and just straight edging it. Pros Cons? I've seen a couple of posts lately of larger tarps w/o the cuts and they look good, plus you don't waste any material. I would probably need to grosgrain the edges to pull tighter, but that wouldn't bother me. I'm not really a gram wienie. If I can make it lighter so be it, but I'm also new to the material and sewing, so maybe for my first tarp attempt I should stick to the basics. I can always convert to cat cut in future.
I am re-reading this and would highly recommend that you reconsider your DIY hyperD hammock length. I started out with a GTUL and it was advertised at 9.5' long. I used if for 5 months and it wasn't as comfortable as I would have hoped. I ended up switching to 11' and it totally changed my opinion of hanging. I haven't done this yet, but I might end up hanging full time now in a 11' hammock. You can always whip the ends shorter if you want.
Right on RedStix. That's the plan now. Better to start long. I can always whip and/or cut off extra material.
Man. I'm really excited to get sewing but I've got to wait until next weekend when I see my mom to get the machine. At least my cordage is getting here tomorrow so I can try my hand at splicing!
You guys have any input on the tarp design. I'm thinking more about not really doing the cat cuts and just straight edging it. Pros Cons? I've seen a couple of posts lately of larger tarps w/o the cuts and they look good, plus you don't waste any material. I would probably need to grosgrain the edges to pull tighter, but that wouldn't bother me. I'm not really a gram wienie. If I can make it lighter so be it, but I'm also new to the material and sewing, so maybe for my first tarp attempt I should stick to the basics. I can always convert to cat cut in future.
Pro: easier construction.
Cons: floppier and heavier.
That being said, I'm a fan of a cat cut ridgeline rather than a cat cut edge. It offers the same flop resistance without sacrificing any coverage. That being said, it's harder to sew. Trade offs...
What length should I make my tarp tie outs? Can't find anything with a search. I'm thinking 6' should be fine for the 8 edge/corner tie outs and 10' for the 4 panel pull outs.
What length should I make my tarp tie outs? Can't find anything with a search. I'm thinking 6' should be fine for the 8 edge/corner tie outs and 10' for the 4 panel pull outs.
Sounds about right. Mine are 6' on my DIY asym; I rarely use more'n 4'.
Well I've been spending my time until I get the thread injector, making my tarp rigging and tie-outs with the 1.75mm zing-it I got from Dutch. That stuff is hard as hell to cut. I ended up using my propane torch to heat a knife to cut it. Worked out nicely as it sealed the line too which made it nice when tapering the ends because usually the remaining stands would stay fused. I do want to give props to doogie's youtube videos on working with the zing-it.
So I have:
2-8' leaders for tarp suspension with locked Brummel on one end and a bury on the other. These will attach to tarp and wrap around the tree and connect to the DHW Fleaz. The Fleaz are on a continuous loop which will be larks headed onto the tarp ridgeline end. Not going with a CRL at this point.
8 - 5' tarp tie outs (locked Brummel and bury). These will attach to 1' piece of shock cord coming of the tarp tie out. The tie outs will be adjustable using the mini-line loks.
1 - adjustable hammock ridgeline. I'll make a static one once I get the right length sorted out. I was going to make a traditional whoppie sling with this, but instead just tied a loop on one end, made a prussic from a continuous loop and tied the other end of the line to it. Not sure if it is going to work too well as the prussic was slipping on occasion. Sometimes it would hold good though. If it fails at least it won't be a ground hitting failure!
I'm getting the thread injector this weekend...looking forward to starting!