Snipe style, Blackbird style or UK hammocks style: diy

[mr tickle]

Hey

Now i have several quilts out of the way the bug has set in, gotta make an UL hammock.

I really like the look of them all, but i am trying to underpin what aspects of each i want... I don't really intend to clone, just to borrow ideas and perhaps change them to suit. Having never been in any of the hammocks i mention i have no idea just what 'real world' difference their features make to the end user so i am hoping people can knock my head into gear! I have a tenth wonder (dd style) atm, so am familiar with that (basically no foot box with a fixed net), but it is all i know.

The snipe has adjustable head and foot box's on either side, yet it has no net. Very flexible. BUT, i always thought a foot box was purely to aid fitting a net to it, so what is with that? I figured it might be used to force a little extra sag, but it is shock cord right? So... why have it? Same goes for the 'head box' although i see no need for sag there anyway since, well, my back bends the right way not to notice a little curve, unlike legs, so what am i missing? As far as i can deduce that design of foot/head box would also rule out fixing a bug net to it right? Since it would need to 'crumple' the zip (so that would likely mean a tube net, we get many mosquito's). If there is a reason for these box's then i think the adjustable nature, thus flexibility of it is a great idea.

The UK hammocks woodsman series have a dyneema line to form a foot box, yet the net is fixed to the edge as if it has no foot box (as far as i can see). So, again, why even have a foot box? The only reason to have it on the woodsman, as far as i can see, is so the zip doesn't bust accidentally (unless sag comes into it, then there is reason?). The good thing with this idea is it could easily be altered to be used on either side, so again, an element of flexibility i guess. Other features that are great being the pocket and fixing points for a quilt. I am keen on using this.

The blackbird has a sewn foot box, so shifting in the night must have it's restrictions? I.E there must be a penalty if you swap lay direction? Does the foot box on this one allow for a better sag at the foot than other designs (assuming that is a thing)? I like how it has a taught net and i guess this relies on this style of foot box? The shelf i think is cool, but perhaps not worth the effort opposed to a sewn pocket? The tie outs are a bit of an unwanted fuss for me and the shelf looks as if it needs them to be at it's best. The modular design of the net/over cover is really good, i like that, so i think i might again borrow that idea. The dimensions are said to be good, so i will probably use those too, but is the xlc' length overkill for me at 6'1"? I really fuss over grams as much as possible, and tree's can be a little 'tight' here but i can get a little leg ache in a 2.7 meter hammock (iro 9 ft).

All said so far, i have not even settled if i actually want a fixed net yet, i might just use a head net in summer or a tube; i am leaning toward the warbonnet modular style atm.

Obviously foot / head box's are the thing confusing me the most, i have only ever seen reference to them helping fit a net though, but different styles seem to have drawbacks i am unsure i have judged correctly.. It would be great if i could get some clarification. If any of you have other good additions/designs/input i should consider that would also be great! Sewing goes slow here so i want to get it right first time.

Cheers!

[hutzelbein]

I own hammocks of all three manufacturers, so I'm trying to answer your questions to the best of my knowledge.


The snipe has adjustable head and foot box's on either side, yet it has no net. Very flexible. BUT, i always thought a foot box was purely to aid fitting a net to it, so what is with that? I figured it might be used to force a little extra sag, but it is shock cord right? So... why have it? Same goes for the 'head box' although i see no need for sag there anyway since, well, my back bends the right way not to notice a little curve, unlike legs, so what am i missing?

The Snipe doesn't have a footbox; the feature is generally called "Knotty mod", in honor of the HF member who invented it (https://www.hammockforums.net/forum/showthread.php/29560-Stretch-Side-Hammock). If the shock cords are cinched, they create a kind of pocket. The purpose is to gather the floppy fabric on the edges (which seems to bother some people) and also to help with keeping stuff (top quilt, sleeping bag, pillow, ...) in the hammock. It doesn't really change the lay of the hammock since the shock cord is too flexible. However, I don't like the pressure it creates on the legs / feet by curving the hammock body slightly.


As far as i can deduce that design of foot/head box would also rule out fixing a bug net to it right? Since it would need to 'crumple' the zip (so that would likely mean a tube net, we get many mosquito's). If there is a reason for these box's then i think the adjustable nature, thus flexibility of it is a great idea.

You probably could attach a bug net to a hammock with Knotty mod, but the mod wouldn't serve any purpose in that case. The net would shape the hammock (depending on how it is cut), keep stuff in the hammock and prevent floppy edges.


The UK hammocks woodsman series have a dyneema line to form a foot box, yet the net is fixed to the edge as if it has no foot box (as far as i can see). So, again, why even have a foot box? The only reason to have it on the woodsman, as far as i can see, is so the zip doesn't bust accidentally (unless sag comes into it, then there is reason?). The good thing with this idea is it could easily be altered to be used on either side, so again, an element of flexibility i guess. Other features that are great being the pocket and fixing points for a quilt. I am keen on using this.

The UK Hammock design replicates the footbox effect of the Warbonnet Blackbird without copying the (patented?) design. The funny thing is, that Brandon (of Warbonnet Outdoors) actually says that his footbox design does not change the lay, but is only a feature to reduce the forces pulling on the bug net and to create more space for your feet. However, quite a few people including myself think otherwise. UK Hammocks apparently, too. In this post I described what the footbox does for me (https://www.hammockforums.net/forum/showthread.php/101215-Footbox-on-both-sides?p=1350778&viewfull=1#post1350778). The UK Hammocks design has the advantage that you can use it, adjust it or not use it at all. The disadvantage I found is that the clip opens if there is a bit more pressure on it. If I would use the design, I would make the system more robust so that it doesn't unclip when I don't want it to.


The blackbird has a sewn foot box, so shifting in the night must have it's restrictions? I.E there must be a penalty if you swap lay direction? Does the foot box on this one allow for a better sag at the foot than other designs (assuming that is a thing)? I like how it has a taught net and i guess this relies on this style of foot box?

The WBBB is my favorite hammock, so I'm biased :) If you use this design, you will only be able to lie in one direction. I have a regular Blackbird - head left, feet right - and lying the in the other direction is not comfortable and also puts too much stress on the fabric and netting. If you like to switch directions, this design is not for you. If you are OK with a fixed direction, I think the design is probably the best.


The shelf i think is cool, but perhaps not worth the effort opposed to a sewn pocket?

Personally, I love the shelf. I miss it in other hammocks. A ridgeline organizer is nice, but doesn't have the same capacity and cannot be used with the same ease. I always have a bottle of water in my hammock, which I don't want hanging over my head (or body), some extra clothes, a book or ebook - and often stuff that I don't want to store where anybody has access (wallet, ...). The shelf stores it all and is easy to access, even if you're not fully awake.


The tie outs are a bit of an unwanted fuss for me and the shelf looks as if it needs them to be at it's best.

I always use the tie outs (unless I'm using a sock, which prevents the use of tie-outs). You will need the shelf-side tie-out if you store a lot of stuff there - it will prevent the stuff bumping against your body. I also like the space the tie-outs create by pulling the netting out of my face. The WB tie-outs are ingenious, because they are attached much higher than in all other hammocks I have seen. They are also connected to the net, which makes getting in and out of the hammock much easier than with tie-outs that are connected to the hammock body. I always stumble over those kind of tie-outs, and have to swing my legs over them. I can simply lift the WB tie-out over my head when entering or exiting the hammock. No need for gymnastics...


The dimensions are said to be good, so i will probably use those too, but is the xlc' length overkill for me at 6'1"? I really fuss over grams as much as possible, and tree's can be a little 'tight' here but i can get a little leg ache in a 2.7 meter hammock (iro 9 ft).

The XLC is an 11' hammock; most people who are 6' and taller seem to prefer 11' over 10'. There are exceptions, so your best bet would be to make a simple 10' and 11' hammock and see which length you like better. Otherwise the hammock body of the Blackbird is not much different from the Snipe or WoodsmanX. As a comparison:

Snipe: 11' x 58"
Blackbird: 10' x 63"
Blackbird XLC: 11' x 63"
WoodsmanX: 9.85' x 59"
XPedition: 10.8' x 59"

The hammock won't be the limiting factor for tree distance; the tarp will. However, a longer hammock might need a longer tarp. A lot of people use their 11' hammock with an 11' tarp, though. If your tarp has doors, you'll certainly be fine with an 11' tarp.


All said so far, i have not even settled if i actually want a fixed net yet, i might just use a head net in summer or a tube; i am leaning toward the warbonnet modular style atm.

If ounces / grams are important to you, I would go with an integrated hammock for bug season, and an extra no-net hammock for the other time. If you can DIY, a no-net hammock is easy to make and pretty cheap. You'll probably want to start with a no-net hammock if you have no prior sewing experience anyway. And an integrated hammock is pretty much always lighter than a no-net hammock with bug sock. Adding separating zippers will also add weight, and is unnecessary for most people, since it's either bug season or it isn't. The only reason to have covers that can be exchanged in my opinion is to save money.


Sewing goes slow here so i want to get it right first time.

Good luck with that, but expect that you will learn a lot of things with your first hammock that you might want to use in a second hammock. I only DIY because I like to be able to try out different things - not to save money. If you want something with lots of features like the Blackbird, you'll most likely save money by buying the original right away. A lot of thought and knowledge (acquired by making lots of prototypes) went into a design like the Blackbird, and it's not easy to replicate - especially if you don't have any experience.

[hutzelbein]

Thinking it over: if you want to switch direction - so from head left / feet right to head right / feet left, you will need to use a design similar to DD Hammocks, Claytor hammocks or the Switchback hammock. With a net that is cut asymmetrical (like WB or UK Hammocks), you will have a fixed direction. Lying the other way will rip your net.

[Bushwhacker]

Thinking it over: if you want to switch direction - so from head left / feet right to head right / feet left, you will need to use a design similar to DD Hammocks, Claytor hammocks or the Switchback hammock. With a net that is cut asymmetrical (like WB or UK Hammocks), you will have a fixed direction. Lying the other way will rip your net.
If it doesn't have a net or has a thoughtfully designed net it would be possible to reverse the lay of all of these hammocks by flipping them inside out/upside down.

[Bushwhacker]

If it doesn't have a net or has a thoughtfully designed net it would be possible to reverse the lay of all of these hammocks by flipping them inside out/upside down.
Of course you'd have to get out of your hammock every time you did this, so there'd be no rolling over and switching lay. I think some people have made a hammock with a footbox on both sides, but they generally rip the hammock unless it's detachable like I imagine the woodsman is.

Personally, I don't think lay affects comfort at all.

[hutzelbein]

If it doesn't have a net or has a thoughtfully designed net it would be possible to reverse the lay of all of these hammocks by flipping them inside out/upside down.

True, but you can't flip the net. So for one direction you'd have a net - for the other not.

[Bushwhacker]

True, but you can't flip the net. So for one direction you'd have a net - for the other not.
You might be able to do it if you have detachable zippers (like the ones for jackets).

[hutzelbein]

That sounds like a lot of bother for only a little flexibility. You would have to install zippers on both sides - and as you pointed out, every time you want to switch direction, you would have to get out of the hammock, de-install your insulation, zip off the bug net, flip the hammock, zip on the bug net, install your insulation...

A rectangular bug net is much easier to sew, and you can lie in your hammock whichever direction you feel like at anytime. If you really want a footbox, you would have to use the UK Hammocks mod. However, this would still mean that you have to unclip one side, and clip the other side. If I would need to switch directions during the night, I would not bother with a footbox.

[mr tickle]

If the shock cords are cinched, they create a kind of pocket [...] to help with keeping stuff (top quilt, sleeping bag, pillow, ...) in the hammock. [..] I don't like the pressure it creates on the legs / feet by curving the hammock body slightly.

Right, i get where you are coming from and i do not think that is for me. I was thinking to use proper cord but still, the whole leg tension thing isn't worth the risk and i don't really care about floppy edges, if i get them.




The funny thing is, that Brandon (of Warbonnet Outdoors) actually says that his footbox design does not change the lay, but is only a feature to reduce the forces pulling on the bug net and to create more space for your feet. However, quite a few people including myself think otherwise. UK Hammocks apparently, too. In this post I described what the footbox does for me (https://www.hammockforums.net/forum/showthread.php/101215-Footbox-on-both-sides?p=1350778&viewfull=1#post1350778).



This is where i was coming unstuck with it, i have repeatedly read people say it does nothing [aside from aiding the net], including Brandon, yet i have seen some people suggest it does. I can see no valid reason for it doing anything for the lay, unless it shortens the side.. I'll have a bit of a think about it, but perhaps:


The UK Hammocks design has the advantage that you can use it, adjust it or not use it at all.

This might be the way to go initially, and if i like it i can always add a fixed footbox. Since there are mixed conclusions about the use of a footbox, the only way is likely to try one and toy around with it... The uk hammocks style could easily be removed and a WBB style added if i change my mind this way.




If you use this design, you will only be able to lie in one direction. [...] Thinking it over: if you want to switch direction - so from head left / feet right to head right / feet left, you will need to use a design similar to DD Hammocks, Claytor hammocks or the Switchback hammock.


If it doesn't have a net or has a thoughtfully designed net it would be possible to reverse the lay of all of these hammocks by flipping them inside out/upside down. [...] Of course you'd have to get out of your hammock every time you did this, so there'd be no rolling over and switching lay. I think some people have made a hammock with a footbox on both sides, but they generally rip the hammock unless it's detachable like I imagine the woodsman is.

As daft as it sounds it is not so much that i definitly shift around, it is more about having the option to . I think i just like to know i can do something if i want to, say to get a better view or IF i was having a bad nights sleep. I guess i am going to have to try laying other ways and decide if i really want the option, normally i sleep like a log [aside from the odd night]. In over 2 years i don't [I]think i have actually switched about much, aside perhaps using it as a chair, but then i guess there is no restriction on that with the WBB footbox? Regardless if they can be flipped that is indeed an easy solution at the setup stage and that pretty much resolves the doubt.




Personally, I love the shelf. I miss it in other hammocks. A ridgeline organizer is nice, but doesn't have the same capacity and cannot be used with the same ease. I always have a bottle of water in my hammock, which I don't want hanging over my head (or body), some extra clothes, a book or ebook - and often stuff that I don't want to store where anybody has access (wallet, ...). The shelf stores it all and is easy to access, even if you're not fully awake. [...] You will need the shelf-side tie-out if you store a lot of stuff there - it will prevent the stuff bumping against your body.

I must have seen a different pocket in a picture to the one you have on your UK hammock, the one i found had a pocket sewn into the seam, positioned near the head but on the other side; so it would actually get most of the advantages you mention, aside from capacity, without the tie outs. I really dont feel the need for them for room, personally, plus it means extra pegs and extra trip points [me and the dogs move around camp a lot]. So that settles that for me.




The XLC is an 11' hammock; most people who are 6' and taller seem to prefer 11' over 10'. There are exceptions, so your best bet would be to make a simple 10' and 11' hammock and see which length you like better. [...] The hammock won't be the limiting factor for tree distance; the tarp will. However, a longer hammock might need a longer tarp.

My tarp is custom to fit snug to my 9 footer, so i will need a bigger tarp thus bigger spaces. Just how much bigger is the question though.. It sounds like i might be better off with the 11 and, now i think about it change my rigging. My DIY whoopie slings take up a good foot at each end so perhaps i should loose them, they can be a faff anyway, knots are not that bad and there are more than a few that will hold in dyneema.




If ounces / grams are important to you, I would go with an integrated hammock for bug season, and an extra no-net hammock for the other time. If you can DIY, a no-net hammock is easy to make and pretty cheap. You'll probably want to start with a no-net hammock if you have no prior sewing experience anyway. [..] And an integrated hammock is pretty much always lighter than a no-net hammock with bug sock. Adding separating zippers will also add weight, and is unnecessary for most people, since it's either bug season or it isn't. The only reason to have covers that can be exchanged in my opinion is to save money

DIY isn't an issue at all, most of my gear is custom and i expect it to cost, i just want to be sure i am not wasting time on pointless gimmicks because i obsess when i make things trying to get everything perfect [can't help it]. I'll have to have a think about it though, whether an integrated is really worth it vs say a head net or tube [if a tube, it would be a no zip tube]. A good plus for a removable net is also having an open space though. Again, i think i need to put a bit more consideration into it but you raise some good points about the tube type nets.



I think if i first make the basic hammock, with fitted pockets and the UK style footbox, give it a whirl, that gives me time to decide if i really want an integrated net [which i can easily add later] and if the footbox really does change the lay for me. If i like the footbox and do/don't want to switch sides [U]often in future [from an options open POV], i guess that stipulates the net i go for.. Flipping it sounds fine to me though atm. Right now i think the probable outcome will be sticking with the UK style footbox with a strong clip [so the edge can be shortened] and using a head net, our bug season is midges [nothing overly nasty, just annoying]. This way i would get the best of flexibility AND weight. If we get a bad season for bugs, i could carry a zipless tube... Does that sound practical?

Cheers for the input, it has helped, and i welcome any more that might come :)

EDITED: Typos and clarity.

[mr tickle]

Sorry for all the edits, i have a bad habit of hitting post before i proof read things :/

[hutzelbein]

This is where i was coming unstuck with it, i have repeatedly read people say it does nothing [aside from aiding the net], including Brandon, yet i have seen some people suggest it does. I can see no valid reason for it doing anything for the lay, unless it shortens the side..

As I wrote in the other post, the footbox allows you to lay a lot closer to the edge than you would normally be able to. This means that the lay changes, even if it is only due to the position. People who say they don't feel any change in lay might simply not use the footbox that way. I also appreciate the "channel" it creates - I find it takes pressure off my legs.


This might be the way to go initially, and if i like it i can always add a fixed footbox. Since there are mixed conclusions about the use of a footbox, the only way is likely to try one and toy around with it... The uk hammocks style could easily be removed and a WBB style added if i change my mind this way.

Just be aware that the UK Hammocks "footbox" is not 100% identical with the Warbonnet footbox. The string replicates the channel, but if you want to move close to the edge, you need to add a barrier - probably the bug net. The net has to be cut in a shape to prevent your feet from going over the hammock, but still give enough room.


i have actually switched about much, aside perhaps using it as a chair, but then i guess there is no restriction on that with the WBB footbox?

You can use the Blackbird as a chair - if you mean sitting in it with your legs over the non-footbox side.


I must have seen a different pocket in a picture to the one you have on your UK hammock, the one i found had a pocket sewn into the seam, positioned near the head but on the other side; so it would actually get most of the advantages you mention, aside from capacity, without the tie outs. I really dont feel the need for them for room, personally, plus it means extra pegs and extra trip points [me and the dogs move around camp a lot]. So that settles that for me.

I wasn't talking about the UK Hammocks pockets but about the Warbonnet Blackbird shelf. The UK Hammocks WoodsmanX and XPedition hammocks don't have a shelf - I don't think any commercially available hammock does, since it's an invention of Warbonnetguy and is probably patented.

Here is a photo of the WB website that shows how the shelf looks like when seen from above:

98750

In the comparison Derek did, there are a couple more pictures that might help: http://theultimatehang.com/2014/05/warbonnet-blackbird-hammock-2014-review/


My tarp is custom to fit snug to my 9 footer, so i will need a bigger tarp thus bigger spaces. Just how much bigger is the question though..

The general rule of thumb seems to be, that the tarp ridgeline should be one foot longer than your hammock if you like a lot of coverage. The same length is OK if you are willing to center the tarp perfectly and hang it as low as possible when the weather is bad. I like my 11' tarp for my 10' hammock.


I'll have to have a think about it though, whether an integrated is really worth it vs say a head net or tube [if a tube, it would be a no zip tube]. A good plus for a removable net is also having an open space though.

If you are going to make a no-net hammock first, make a bug sock, too. If you don't want to bother with a zipper, try the Fronkey style bug net (http://youtu.be/dfEM6yEO268). A sock that needs to be pulled up to the hammock end to close is a lot of bother in my opinion.


I think if i first make the basic hammock, with fitted pockets and the UK style footbox, give it a whirl, that gives me time to decide if i really want an integrated net [which i can easily add later] and if the footbox really does change the lay for me. If i like the footbox and do/don't want to switch sides [U]often in future [from an options open POV], i guess that stipulates the net i go for.. Flipping it sounds fine to me though atm. Right now i think the probable outcome will be sticking with the UK style footbox with a strong clip [so the edge can be shortened] and using a head net, our bug season is midges [nothing overly nasty, just annoying]. This way i would get the best of flexibility AND weight. If we get a bad season for bugs, i could carry a zipless tube... Does that sound practical?

Well, if you are OK sleeping with just a head net, go for it. I prefer being 100% protected. I'm not familiar with British midges, but the mosquitos we get in Germany bite through anything that has contact with the skin. A head net would need to be kept away from the face to be effective. I find an integrated hammock a good compromise between convenience, protection and weight. To give you a reference point, my 10' WBBB 1.1oz DL weighs 624g without suspension; the 10' WB Traveler 1.1oz DL weighs 426g without suspension. This means bug net and shelf weigh less than 200g. That's 200g I gladly carry :)

[mr tickle]

As I wrote in the other post, the footbox allows you to lay a lot closer to the edge than you would normally be able to. [...] The string replicates the channel, but if you want to move close to the edge, you need to add a barrier - probably the bug net.

Right, i glanced over that because i am not sure i actually agree. What i mean by this is that i do not think i need to add a barrier unless i don't want things to hang out of the end. This doesn't bother me, i use mine with the net open often and jam right next to the edges without a problem. Unless i am overlooking something? Have i misunderstood something?



You can use the Blackbird as a chair - if you mean sitting in it with your legs over the non-footbox side.

Cool, that is what i meant!




I wasn't talking about the UK Hammocks pockets but about the Warbonnet Blackbird shelf.

True, but you referenced it as having a ridge line bag and drawing a comparison to the shelf of the WBB [at least that is how interpreted it]. I was simply pointing out the pocket i meant had similar function to the shelf. A simple crossing of wires somewhere. :)

Thank you for the pictures, they do advertise the shelf well. It does look really useful.



If you are going to make a no-net hammock first, make a bug sock, too. If you don't want to bother with a zipper, try the Fronkey style bug net (http://youtu.be/dfEM6yEO268). A sock that needs to be pulled up to the hammock end to close is a lot of bother in my opinion. [...] if you are OK sleeping with just a head net, go for it. I prefer being 100% protected. I'm not familiar with British midges, but the mosquitos we get in Germany bite through anything that has contact with the skin. A head net would need to be kept away from the face to be effective. I find an integrated hammock a good compromise between convenience, protection and weight

The fronkey nets do indeed look good, thanks! Obviously i am on the fence with everything atm, i am pretty much 'thinking out loud' :rolleyes: i probably should not do that but i think it is good to get criticised by people on thoughts. Our midges sound about the same, but i had the thought of draping a head net from the ridge line (might work, might not, i am not sure at all, but if it does work it will weigh about 30g max). I do agree that an full integrated net is a good balance, i could well miss having one.

I'll make the basic hammock tomorrow/monday and get out in it, see how it feels without a net. After that, looking at the photo's etc i will weigh up how to proceed with the net if it doesnt feel right,


Thanks for the information and detail.

[hutzelbein]

Right, i glanced over that because i am not sure i actually agree. What i mean by this is that i do not think i need to add a barrier unless i don't want things to hang out of the end. This doesn't bother me, i use mine with the net open often and jam right next to the edges without a problem. Unless i am overlooking something? Have i misunderstood something?

I doubt that you can lie as close to the edge as I do - your feet would fall out of the hammock. Unfortunately I don't have a picture that shows my feet's position. When I lie in my Blackbird, my feet often are "in" the footbox, meaning that my soles are touching the footbox fabric. Maybe they're even over the hammock body, I don't know. I'll have to have a look the next time I'm using my Blackbird.

I had the WB Traveler for a while, which is the Blackbird minus the bug net, footbox and shelf. I could never get comfortable, because my feet fell over the edge of the hammock whenever I got close to the most comfortable position. That said, I'm very comfortable in my 12' DIY no-net PolyD hammock although I'm not lying very close to the edge. However, I believe this is mostly due to the different fabric and a bit due to the increased length. With all other hammocks I get a calf ridge. I also get one in the Blackbird when I'm not in the right place. Of course other people feel differently. These are just my observations.


True, but you referenced it as having a ridge line bag and drawing a comparison to the shelf of the WBB [at least that is how interpreted it]. I was simply pointing out the pocket i meant had similar function to the shelf. A simple crossing of wires somewhere. :)

That's a misunderstanding. I was only talking about a generic ridgeline organizer in comparison with the WB shelf. Pretty much all integrated hammocks have a ridgeline organizer for internal storage. I actually like the Dream Hammock ridgeline organizer best, and will probably try to copy it to integrate in my WBBB. The ridgeline organizer is great for storing small and/or fragile things you don't want buried under other stuff - like my glasses. At the moment I hang my glasses on the WBBB ridgeline, but with the head end slightly lower, they keep sliding down to the head end. I also don't like the edges rubbing on the bug net. The UK Hammocks ridgeline organizer is humongous and also made from nylon bug netting, I think. This makes it very flexible - stiff polyester bug netting is better suited for ridgeline organizers in my opinion.


The fronkey nets do indeed look good, thanks! Obviously i am on the fence with everything atm, i am pretty much 'thinking out loud' :rolleyes: i probably should not do that but i think it is good to get criticised by people on thoughts. Our midges sound about the same, but i had the thought of draping a head net from the ridge line (might work, might not, i am not sure at all, but if it does work it will weigh about 30g max).

The SUL people use a partial bug net; there are tutorials and/or videos somewhere on HF, but I can't find anything right now. Maybe open a new thread - or do some searching. I seem to remember that it was used with the "ghost hammock (https://www.hammockforums.net/forum/showthread.php/43521-Ghost-Hammock-DIY-ultralight-hammock)".


I'll make the basic hammock tomorrow/monday and get out in it, see how it feels without a net. After that, looking at the photo's etc i will weigh up how to proceed with the net if it doesnt feel right,

Good luck with it! Maybe you'll come up with a new design. If you do, please post about it :)

[mr tickle]

Just a bit of an update, should anyone have input.

I got the basic hammock finished at the start of the week and have had a bit of time to lay in it.

The first thing i noticed is i really don't need a sewn footbox, i actually had spare room at an extreme diagonal (the hammock body is 160cm wide); plus for the first time i have a brilliant view (and it really is better than sitting up for a view).

The second thing, the bunched end (on uk and wb hammocks); not for me it can be a bit of an *** ache to get an even lay. My TW was so thick i just fed a continuos loop through the channels, i want to do this instead, is this safe on 1.6 oz fabric (pertex [nylon tafetta]? I figure it will still be gripping by a cinch regardless... Gonna try to figure this out before i add reinforcement stitches to the channels, i held back on triple stitching so i could add a bit of grosgrain to the upper edge if needs be [or double fold].

Lastly, 11'x4' (335x160) turned out to give the most comfort i have ever had and it turns out it it will still fit under my 9.9' (3m) tarp, although it may end up needing doors for wind driven rain, not sure yet. I will have to see as i test it outside in bad weather.

Current weight 11.07 oz (314g) [no net] using single layer 1.6 oz/yd^2 (55 g/m^2) pertex 4