View Full Version : Tarp Sizing
Hey Everyone,
I'm looking to get a new tarp to replace my current one which is less that usable. (A.k.a. its only usable in the kind of weather where i don't need it.)
Thus i was wondering what sizes of tarps every one carries and square v.s rectangular v.s hex? etc. I'm looking for something to be used in rain and probably snow too. Weight isn't really an issue for me as my current tarp weighs roughly a pound and a half and doesn't cover much at all.
Thanks in advance
pineapplenewton
08-31-2009, 18:54
If you want to use this tarp for snow id get a huge one with doors. Right now i use a 11.5 by 10 rectangle im in nh so it can get cold here.
Just Jeff
08-31-2009, 19:05
I've found a MacCat Standard to be the right balance of size, weight and coverage for most conditions I hike in...even a lot of winter conditions when I'm solo. I also use the JRB 10x11 in winter or sometimes when I want to hang with my son under the same tarp. That's a lot of tarp to carry when you don't need to coverage, though...so it's nice to have both.
sclittlefield
08-31-2009, 19:07
Hey Bones. You'll find that the most common ridgeline length of hammock tarps is 11 feet. That gives good end coverage on almost any hammock, while still being short enough to keep it lighter weight and fit between narrow tree distances.
Standard silnylon (silicone impregnated ripstop nylon) is around 5' wide, so you will see 11x10 as a common size. That gives very good coverage to keep dry under while you do any camp chores in the driving rain.
Hex tarps are a bit lighter because they have the corners chopped off. Lighter, but less coverage (usually still plenty even in a serious downpour).
I'll most likely be selling two 11x10's shortly (19oz and 20oz). PM me if you or anyone else is interested and I'll probably put them up on the 4sale section when I get a chance.
I've been using a MacCat Deluxe (130" ridgeline and 120" width) and that works great with either my WBBB or Speer. I recently had Brian make a Spinntex version in the Deluxe length, but in the Standard width (8.6oz). The Standard width is 18" less on each side, but still seems plenty in all but, possibly, the very worst conditions. So a 10'10" length and 10' width is plenty, and a 10'10" length and 8' width is still enough.
Thanks for all the great info.
I also noticed that most of the tarps i see on here have cord or webbing loop type tie-outs. Is there a reason that gromets are getting rare? Is it just the weight?
sclittlefield
08-31-2009, 22:02
Thanks for all the great info.
I also noticed that most of the tarps i see on here have cord or webbing loop type tie-outs. Is there a reason that gromets are getting rare? Is it just the weight?
Nice observation Bones. You're right on. You'll find grommets on the cheaper (in lots of ways) tarps because they're fast and easy. The problem with grommets are that they will rip the fabric much quicker than webbing loops. They also cause havoc in the stuff sac if they get bent or damaged, possibly causing more tears when you pack it up. Grommets are also not field repairable. Webbing is definitely the way to go.
You'll see OES and some others have D-rings on webbing loops. That is a great way to go. Not only does it look amazing, if the D-ring ever does break you can just use the loop - no problems.
That's a really good bit of information there. I was going to put gromets on my current tarp (because they're fast and easy, go figure) to try to make it more usable but that really changes my mind. I've decided to finally give up on that tarp (even though i swore i wouldn't :rolleyes: ) it would be too much work to make it worth it. Also, what are the benefits of silnylon vs. other tarp materials? I've gathered that it is quite a bit lighter but is that all there is to it?
Edit:
I've also seen some variation in ridge lines; some being a single long cord from anchor point to anchor point. While others have two cords, one affixed to each end. Is this solely based on preference or does it have more to it? materials perhaps?
There seems to be a great community spirit to these forums that is really helpful to the new hangers out there (like me).
so again, thanks everyone for the great and prompt responses!
sclittlefield
09-01-2009, 08:49
I've decided to finally give up on that tarp (even though i swore i wouldn't :rolleyes: ) it would be too much work to make it worth it.
Aww, don't give up yet. Adding webbing loops is pretty simple and can be done even if you don't have a sewing machine (but it's certainly faster with).
Also, what are the benefits of silnylon vs. other tarp materials? I've gathered that it is quite a bit lighter but is that all there is to it?
Silnylon is significantly lighter and that is the primary reason, but there are other benefits as well. Because it's so slippery it sheds faster than some other materials, but that wouldn't really be all that noticeable except in some odd situations maybe. It's waterproofness can last a bit longer than coated fabrics, which tend to have the coating peel after long term sun exposure.
Silnylon is readily available at many outdoor gear fabric companies and it's cost to benefit ratio makes it a popular material for waterproof applications.
That said, there are other materials which are even lighter (spinn, cuben), but they are also a bit cost prohibitive (~$20-35/yd).
I've also seen some variation in ridge lines; some being a single long cord from anchor point to anchor point. While others have two cords, one affixed to each end. Is this solely based on preference or does it have more to it? materials perhaps?
This is a preference thing. The one long line (if your tarp is semi-permanently fixed to it with prussiks to slide in place and tighten up on the line) is definitely one of the fastest ways to get your tarp up in a hurry. It also allows your tarp to rest on the cord, rather than strain the ridgeline. But... that also means in winds the cord could act like a saw on the tarp if it's not slippery enough, and some have had issues with the contact drawing water through and dripping.
One cord on each end has some advantages also. Primarily, it lightens your load (albeit not very much) by having less cord. There's no foreign substance in contact with the underside of your tarp to cause capillary water action. But, it does put more stress on your ridgeline (which should be able to take the stress anyway, but still).
Hope at least some of that is useful. I'm sure others will fill in all the gaps I left. :)
Mustardman
09-01-2009, 09:54
It's best to just accept that there is no be-all, end-all answer when it comes to tarps. You'll probably end up with several of them in the long run.
I've gotten good rain coverage from my Warbonnet Big Mambajamba, but it doesn't close up, so isn't as good for cold weather. My custom OES 12x10 is phenomenal for cold weather and ultimate wind-blown rain protection, but is pretty heavy. It's also great for hanging two hammocks under one tarp, in less extreme conditions. My speer 8x10 is much lighter, and can close up surprisingly tight for cold weather protection, and even offers decent rain protection, but there's very little extra room under the tarp, so it's not good for giving you a place to sit and relax while you wait out the storm.
If I had to choose just one tarp, it would be my OES 12x10 - it's just so crazy versatile. Other strong contenders in the ginormous tarp category are the JRB 11x10, JRB Hammock Hut, Warbonnet Superfly, Speer Winter Tarp, and I've heard rumblings that Brian at OES is working on a design to add doors to his maccat hex tarps.
Thanks again guys, I think i'm going to take the plunge and make my own at this point. I've got a fairly good idea of what its going to be but i may still ask for some advice down the road.
sclittlefield
09-02-2009, 08:55
Be sure to keep us updated on your progress. And do ask lots of questions. There are some really knowledgeable guys and girls here, a number of them in the tap making business and are glad to give pointers.
i'm thinking about adding doors on the ends, and i'm debating between putting velcro on it to close it up or using toggles and loops. any suggestions?
Mustardman
09-02-2009, 20:01
velcro seems like it would weigh an awful lot. Warbonnetguy seems to have had good results using snaps for the doors on his superfly.
sclittlefield
09-02-2009, 21:35
i'm thinking about adding doors on the ends, and i'm debating between putting velcro on it to close it up or using toggles and loops. any suggestions?
velcro seems like it would weigh an awful lot. Warbonnetguy seems to have had good results using snaps for the doors on his superfly.
Velcro is actually pretty light, and you could use it in 2" strips strategically placed (like where you'd put the buttons or toggles). I'm not sure how well that would work. I think going full length would be best.
Just keep in mind "worst case scenario" weather wise when you design your closure. What is a crazy swirling wind, or a wind shift that drives against the door going to do? When the doors are whipping around is your closure method going to cause rips or tears? I don't know that any of those mentioned would. Just something to keep in mind.
Another option is just make it long enough so you can swing the ends in as doors. An 11' tarp works if the tie outs are right, 12' might work easier and only weigh a little more. Not as nice as actual doors, but it does simplify things.
Here's an 11' ridgeline layout that should work. It's the way I build a standard 11x10 tarp (actually turns out to be closer to 11x11).
Full velcro on my doors ..... I want that breeze outta there up here in MN winters. Added a wee bit of weight but gives me security!
Hope to replicate this tarp in Spinn someday.
Wonder how Spinn does in severe cold .... sub-zero?
http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery/files/9/0/7/Tarp-Flaps-Velcro-Closed_thumb.jpg (http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery/showimage.php?i=2462&c=member&imageuser=907)
http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery/files/9/0/7/Tarp-Closures-Outside-Narro_thumb.jpg (http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery/showimage.php?i=2463&c=member&imageuser=907)
http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery/files/9/0/7/Tarp-Flap-One-Closed_thumb.jpg (http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery/showimage.php?i=2465&c=member&imageuser=907)
http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery/files/9/0/7/p1030001_thumb.jpg (http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery/showimage.php?i=5115&c=member&imageuser=907)
Shug of Snow
Ok, i was making some mock ups with some graph paper today to see how some dimensions would work out for me and i got to thinkin' and wanted to get everyone's opinion on something. If i were to take some (3/4"?) webbing, and sew that along the long axis/ridge of my tarp, do you think that would help with longevity and keep some of the stress off of the actual tarp material? Would it be worth it? Has it been tried?
Mustardman
09-03-2009, 21:58
I don't know if it's been done with webbing, but it's certainly been done with other materials, like grosgrain.
Ramblinrev
09-03-2009, 22:13
I am unclear as to why you would want webbing. It seems like overkill to me. At the same time I would wonder if, using ribbon, you would gain anything substantial over the flat felled seam already there.
One question I do not have an answer for would be the impact of the ribbon or what have you on the ability to make the tarp taut. The ability to tighten the ridgeline is part of what tightens the whole side panel of the tarp. If you seriously restrict that ability beyond the flat felled seam I don't know if the panels would tighten as you would like them to... or if you would get pudkers at the ridge that would not pull out.
Mustardman
09-03-2009, 22:34
Warbonnetguy uses grosgrain on the ridges on his tarps, and I've had no problems getting my big mambajamba to pitch nice and taut. It does feel like the load is being applied to the grosgrain, forming a sort of frame which stretches the silnylon taut. It works pretty well IMHO.
I agree it could lean towards overkill depending on how you do it. But i was mainly going for bullet proof, as i plan to hang on to this tarp for a while and it may see some serious use. i had not planned on stitching the webbing the whole length of the tarp but rather stitching at both ends and in the middle. Hoping to add another layer of tensile strength to the tarp for a good tight ridge line.
Edit: much like what Mustardman mentions.
Ramblinrev
09-04-2009, 00:48
Warbonnetguy uses grosgrain on the ridges on his tarps, and I've had no problems getting my big mambajamba to pitch nice and taut. It does feel like the load is being applied to the grosgrain, forming a sort of frame which stretches the silnylon taut. It works pretty well IMHO.
Thanks for that information. I figured it would either be nice and practical or a problem. Good to know it is practical.