View Full Version : Late introduction of the Tarp Ridgeline
This will be 25' of line, either the 2mm Dyanglide or 2.2mm Yellow Zing it with 3 prusik knots in either yellow, grey or red. Once the Dyanglide is gone, it will be 2.2mm Zing It. The prusik knots are made with one of my continuous loops.
2 of the prusiks are for tarp attachment. The third is for a Figure 9. I have some figure 9's on the way to include with the TRL, but as of now pricing reflects one not being included.
The RL itself will have 2" fixed eyes spliced in either end. On one end you can larks head the line, use a toggle or a biner if you carry one, to attach to your mounting point. On the other end you can use the Figure 9, or a truckers hitch to pull the RL tight.
Attach your tarps ridgeline to 2 of the prusiks via biners, toggles or however you fancy, center and pull the prusiks tight. Then pitch as normal.
Weight is between 19 and 25 grams, depending on line choices and Figure 9.
Current price is $18.50 shipped via USPS. Once the Figure 9's arrive, price will be $20.50. I am not making any money on the Figure 9's, just purchasing them and including them at my cost.
The coin in the center is the size of a nickel.
http://i411.photobucket.com/albums/pp200/opie0074/P1000994.jpg
http://i411.photobucket.com/albums/pp200/opie0074/P1000944.jpg
http://i411.photobucket.com/albums/pp200/opie0074/P1000938.jpg
Tarp attachment via Biner...
http://i411.photobucket.com/albums/pp200/opie0074/P1000767.jpg
Looks great Opie! Should be in great demand. The over the tarp ridgeline is becoming very popular. I like the ease of adjustibility.
Great job!
Thanks Peg-Leg.
I should also mention.. I can leave the prusik loops open if folks would rather tie their tarp D-rings into the prusik.
Scottybdiving
01-10-2010, 22:57
Hey Opie that's exactly the way I have set up my tarp ridgeline. Of course all ideas that I have gathered from HF. I also like the reefing method described by Shug.
Looks good Scotty!!!
Hows the shock cord working out?
Scottybdiving
01-10-2010, 23:44
The prussik loops are actually the "micro cord" that came with the Granite Gear tarp. The tarp has tension tape sewn into the ridgline and edges and does not require a shock cord. You would think that would be an issue for leakage, but it had always been watertight. I have had it up in some downpoors.
Why a prusik with a Figure 9? A Figure 9 has adjustability built in.
The prussik loops are actually the "micro cord" that came with the Granite Gear tarp. The tarp has tension tape sewn into the ridgline and edges and does not require a shock cord. You would think that would be an issue for leakage, but it had always been watertight. I have had it up in some downpoors.
Oh... OK. It looks like shock cord.
Why a prusik with a Figure 9? A Figure 9 has adjustability built in.
Having the Figure 9 on a prusik makes adjusting it much easier. Sliding a Figure 9 along a line when its attached as instructed can be a pain in the butt. Adding it to a prusik means just sliding the prusik along the line.
oldgringo
01-11-2010, 05:04
Why a prusik with a Figure 9? A Figure 9 has adjustability built in.
Speed/convenience, I'm guessing. Moving a 9 around is kind of a pain, at least compared to sliding a prusik, and the loop is all but weightless.
Edit: ya beat me, Opie.
Looks great Opie! Should be in great demand. The over the tarp ridgeline is becoming very popular. I like the ease of adjustibility.
Great job!
It is a great setup by Opie but why the demand only for over the tarp? I use a similar setup as an under the tarp ridgeline. Let's me have the line inside my setup for hanging stuff. I find that very useful.
It is a great setup by Opie but why the demand only for over the tarp? I use a similar setup as an under the tarp ridgeline. Let's me have the line inside my setup for hanging stuff. I find that very useful.
It can go either way...
Having it over the tarp eliminates the possibility of the line channeling water under the tarp. To some extent.
I've always used an over the top ridge but I also run a second underneath for hanging my underblanket and a few bits of kit from. Handy for hanging a torch from and muddy boots at the end of the day.
Scottybdiving
01-11-2010, 07:30
Why a prusik with a Figure 9? A Figure 9 has adjustability built in.
I also read here where somone suggested that it prevents losing the figure 9, when it is attached.
Hawk-eye
01-11-2010, 08:35
My buddy Ken uses this set up ... actually had it on his rig at the Linville Gorge Hang (check out Shug's 3rd video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AE1ykrxhRwo)).
He also just sent me a rig for my Equinox ... complete with continous loops for prussiks. I like it a lot. He's got a buried loop in on end that you fix with a "staub" as Shug calls it ... two prussiks for the tarp and one with the figure nine for the end of the line. Sweet set up for getting that tarp up quickly and then being able to find the sweet spot between the trees for you set up.
You da man Ken!
BlackGoat
01-11-2010, 09:59
Arrowhead actually offers a tarp ridgeline kit much like this using the nitize 's' style carabiner. His isn't for a full ridgeline (tree to tree), but just for attaching to the tarp ridgeline one each side, something I prefer. It works extremely well and very fast, it in essence gives you the quick adjustments of a full ridgeline without actually having one.
He sent me a video on how it works:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/31716725@N03/4060067148/
Product Page
http://arrowheadequipment.webs.com/apps/webstore/products/show/994223
DG
It can go either way...
Having it over the tarp eliminates the possibility of the line channeling water under the tarp. To some extent.
Gotta have a drip cord setup of some kind when you go under. I simply have a piece of paracord tied very tightly and pointing downward right under each D-ring of the tarp. Never had a drop of water get passed them. I have now seen shoe laces used and pieces of felt. All seem to work just fine. I actually just leave the paracord tied on my ridgeline permanently.
Gotta have a drip cord setup of some kind when you go under. I simply have a piece of paracord tied very tightly and pointing downward right under each D-ring of the tarp. Never had a drop of water get passed them. I have now seen shoe laces used and pieces of felt. All seem to work just fine. I actually just leave the paracord tied on my ridgeline permanently.
I prefer under as well... Gives me a place to hang things...
Arrowhead actually offers a tarp ridgeline kit much like this using the nitize 's' style carabiner. His isn't for a full ridgeline (tree to tree), but just for attaching to the tarp ridgeline one each side, something I prefer. It works extremely well and very fast, it in essence gives you the quick adjustments of a full ridgeline without actually having one.
He sent me a video on how it works:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/31716725@N03/4060067148/
Product Page
http://arrowheadequipment.webs.com/apps/webstore/products/show/994223
DG
I saw that. Thats a nice option.
The schtick with mine is I dont use any knots, all splices. Other than the prusiks... which are made with spliced cord.
And I prefer to have a line under the tarp to hang things.. like socks, towels etc.
Just finished up an order and thought it a good opportunity for a close up of one end, including the 3 prusik loops.
http://i411.photobucket.com/albums/pp200/opie0074/P1010002.jpg
oldgringo
01-11-2010, 20:46
Purty!!!!!
tomsawyer222
01-12-2010, 16:28
Ok maybe i missed a thread somewhere but what exactly is the advantage of this over just tying each end of the tarp to the tree with some cord (any) and using a slippery taut line hitch to vary the tightness? I can see that this could could be a tighter rope set up but.....
One major advantage is that it makes it easier to center the tarp. I'm sure there are others....
Ok maybe i missed a thread somewhere but what exactly is the advantage of this over just tying each end of the tarp to the tree with some cord (any) and using a slippery taut line hitch to vary the tightness? I can see that this could could be a tighter rope set up but.....
Easier to center your tarp, gives you a line under your tarp not connected to your hammock for hanging things like clothes and whatnot.
I dont think its superior to any other method of setting up a tarp, just another option with different possibilities.
BurningCedar
01-12-2010, 19:18
Darn you -- I just promised myself no more purchases for a while, and you had to go and improve something (again). :rolleyes:
Next week I'll stop buying stuff.
PM is on the way.......
Darn you -- I just promised myself no more purchases for a while, and you had to go and improve something (again). :rolleyes:
Next week I'll stop buying stuff.
PM is on the way.......
Next week I may be releasing the new and improved guyline...
Keep your wallet open a little longer!!:lol:
BurningCedar
01-12-2010, 19:40
Next week I may be releasing the new and improved guyline...
Keep your wallet open a little longer!!:lol:
You're killing me :lol:
We'll there's still $28.55 left in the PayPal account that the wife doesn't know about......
TiredFeet
01-12-2010, 20:14
Ok maybe i missed a thread somewhere but what exactly is the advantage of this over just tying each end of the tarp to the tree with some cord (any) and using a slippery taut line hitch to vary the tightness? I can see that this could could be a tighter rope set up but.....
As already mentioned positioning the tarp between the trees.
Also, I find it to be much easier to pitch the tarp in windy conditions. I have fought the tarp too many times trying to get the ridge line tie out attached to the second tree while holding the tarp in my arms, i.e., trying to hold it, that silnyl stuff is extremely slippery stuff and always ended up sliding out from my arms and getting blown around by the wind, while I'm fighting to control this sail with one arm and hand while attaching the tie out around the tree and secure it. Then I have to get it positioned.
With the ridge line, I simply string the ridge line tree to tree, wind, rain, sleet, snow is not a bother for the ridge line. I then eyeball where I want one end of the tarp and set the Prussic there and attach the tie out loop to the Prussic. I then walk to the end of the tarp which is reefed into a nice roll and slide the second Prussic and attach the second tie out to it. The wind has been absolutely no bother during this whole process. I can then start unreefing one end and staking out. Unreefing more tarp as needed.
Between the ridge line and the reefing, the tarp is under control at all times.
Barefoot Child
01-12-2010, 21:09
And handling either a tarp or a real sail in strong wind is something you would prefer to do easily (relatively) and fast. Been there...done that. the faster you can do it, the sooner you can take care of something else. Remember...anybody can camp when it's nice. Things just seem to be more important to get done when the weather turns to poo.
Another thing I don't think anybody's mentioned yet is a full length ridgeline can act as a good fall arrester from dropping limbs and small branches.
Not that we pitch camp under any widow makers in the first place :rolleyes:
As already mentioned positioning the tarp between the trees.
Also, I find it to be much easier to pitch the tarp in windy conditions. I have fought the tarp too many times trying to get the ridge line tie out attached to the second tree while holding the tarp in my arms, i.e., trying to hold it, that silnyl stuff is extremely slippery stuff and always ended up sliding out from my arms and getting blown around by the wind, while I'm fighting to control this sail with one arm and hand while attaching the tie out around the tree and secure it. Then I have to get it positioned.
With the ridge line, I simply string the ridge line tree to tree, wind, rain, sleet, snow is not a bother for the ridge line. I then eyeball where I want one end of the tarp and set the Prussic there and attach the tie out loop to the Prussic. I then walk to the end of the tarp which is reefed into a nice roll and slide the second Prussic and attach the second tie out to it. The wind has been absolutely no bother during this whole process. I can then start unreefing one end and staking out. Unreefing more tarp as needed.
Between the ridge line and the reefing, the tarp is under control at all times.
I've looked up "reefing a sail"
Still not sure how you have this configured for your tarp.
How you have it rolled or folded? tied?
Can you show us what you mean by "reefing the tarp"???
Thanks
Tom
oldgringo
01-13-2010, 07:52
Tom, by my reckoning, reefing is a misnomer...furling comes closer to being accurate.
There's a thread somewhere...
oldgringo
01-13-2010, 07:55
Here:
http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/showthread.php?t=11868&highlight=reef
Ahhhh
Clear to me now Dave.
I like the vid you linked to. Shows tarp tie downs "reefing" as well as the snakeskins....both methods with the same result...
A tarp that is controllable....Dang that's a beautiful thought,
Thank you
Tom
add the word furling for search result...the vid didn't show up with a search of furling :)
Barefoot Child
01-13-2010, 12:03
Okay...it's a killin' me....OldGringo....just what is a "Proud Pound Hawg" ?
oldgringo
01-13-2010, 12:41
Okay...it's a killin' me....OldGringo....just what is a "Proud Pound Hawg" ?
The opposite of a Gram Weenie. Randy was making trouble, and coined the term here:
http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/showthread.php?t=13217
I like it. It fits me.:lol:
Barefoot Child
01-13-2010, 12:54
Thanks for the quick reply....so glad I wasn't drinking coffee yet. :laugh:
How about the addition of hanging loops from the RL?
For the folks that run their RL under their tarp... Would the addition of a couple loose loops that can be moved along the line to hang things from be helpful or a nuisance....
OK... Some outdoors pictures. This is with the 2.2 Zing It which is replacing the Dyanglide. Prusik knots are made with 1.75 Zing It. Figure 9's should be in this week. Sorry the pictures are a bit blurry, I had the camera in lazy mode.
Starting with the first end, this is the end without the figure 9... You can either use a biner,
http://i411.photobucket.com/albums/pp200/opie0074/P1010024.jpg
Or a toggle, of which is your choice...
http://i411.photobucket.com/albums/pp200/opie0074/P1010025.jpg
The other end has the Figure 9 attached with a prusik..
http://i411.photobucket.com/albums/pp200/opie0074/P1010027.jpg
Then you attach your tarps ridge D-ring to the remaining prusiks either with a biner
http://i411.photobucket.com/albums/pp200/opie0074/P1010029.jpg
Or toggle
http://i411.photobucket.com/albums/pp200/opie0074/P1010030.jpg
And after everything is staked out...
http://i411.photobucket.com/albums/pp200/opie0074/P1010046.jpg
http://i411.photobucket.com/albums/pp200/opie0074/P1010047.jpg
I am also increasing the starting length to 30' rather than 25'. Price will increase $1, and once the Figure 9's arrive, if you would like one with the TRL, it will be an additional $2. Thats my cost on the Figure 9.
I should have Figure 9's in hand tomorrow. 1 will now be included with the RL and already on the prusik.
I really like this setup for ease and adjustability. Had been toying with buying some Lash-it, but had some Kelty Triptease on hand (I like the reflection at night:D), and made a set-up like Opie's. This is really cool. Beats the pants off of tying each end of the tarp to the trees. Klemheists seemed to work better for the triptease than prusiks, but it is a different rope than Lash-it/Zing-it and I used the same diameter rope for the Klemheists as the tarp line itself. Should be adequate for tarp hanging.
I really like this setup for ease and adjustability. Had been toying with buying some Lash-it, but had some Kelty Triptease on hand (I like the reflection at night:D), and made a set-up like Opie's. This is really cool. Beats the pants off of tying each end of the tarp to the trees. Klemheists seemed to work better for the triptease than prusiks, but it is a different rope than Lash-it/Zing-it and I used the same diameter rope for the Klemheists as the tarp line itself. Should be adequate for tarp hanging.
Post up some pics!!
The Triptease should hold just about any friction hitch well if you use smaller line for the prusik. The Klemheist does hold better than a prusik, but you are limited to only being able to load it one direction, IIRC. Not a problem on a TRL, though.
The Triptease should hold just about any friction hitch well if you use smaller line for the prusik. The Klemheist does hold better than a prusik, but you are limited to only being able to load it one direction, IIRC. Not a problem on a TRL, though.
I think my issue was that the prusik and TRL are the same diameter (both being the Triptease) and the prusik kept slipping when loaded. Fared better with the Klemheist for this application.
Coming soon you will have the option of Grey for the Tarp Ridge Line. It will be 2.2mm Lash It with the 3 prusiks and 1 Figure 9.
tlbj6142
01-25-2010, 14:01
I just thought of something, what if you added a 4th prusik loop, could you eliminate the Figure 9? We'd have to make sure the last two prusik loops were on each side of the 2nd "tree" and then we'd just use a toggle (stick) to hold both loops together. We would pull the ridgeline through the 3rd and 4th loop's prusik (IOW, slide the pursik loops) in order to adjust the tension/length of the ridge line. Though maybe the pursiks might not be able to hold the tension? No, that shouldn't be an issue as in the current design, we expect the 3rd loop to hold the tension by itself.
I just thought of something, what if you added a 4th prusik loop, could you eliminate the Figure 9? We'd have to make sure the last two prusik loops were on each side of the 2nd "tree" and then we'd just use a toggle (stick) to hold both loops together. We would pull the ridgeline through the 3rd and 4th loop's prusik (IOW, slide the pursik loops) in order to adjust the tension/length of the ridge line. Though maybe the pursiks might not be able to hold the tension? No, that shouldn't be an issue as in the current design, we expect the 3rd loop to hold the tension by itself.
I think Im following you, but unsure if it would work. Ill see what I can come up with.
tlbj6142
01-25-2010, 16:47
I think Im following you, but unsure if it would work. Ill see what I can come up with.I think I have 4 loops on-hand at home now, so I'm gonna try a quick setup to see if it might work.
I just thought of something, what if you added a 4th prusik loop, could you eliminate the Figure 9? We'd have to make sure the last two prusik loops were on each side of the 2nd "tree" and then we'd just use a toggle (stick) to hold both loops together. We would pull the ridgeline through the 3rd and 4th loop's prusik (IOW, slide the pursik loops) in order to adjust the tension/length of the ridge line. Though maybe the pursiks might not be able to hold the tension? No, that shouldn't be an issue as in the current design, we expect the 3rd loop to hold the tension by itself.
Hey Tlbj, Here is a post from a few months back where I suggested that set up to Climbslaker. I works well and sets up quick if you are wanting a full ridge line and don't want to deal with any hardware.
Older post here (http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/showpost.php?p=156165&postcount=11)
Rilmoigan
01-25-2010, 17:52
Coming soon you will have the option of Grey for the Tarp Ridge Line. It will be 2.2mm Lash It with the 3 prusiks and 1 Figure 9.
I'll line up fer that!
BTW, used my ridgeline & tie-outs on Saturday (-5 F overnight hang) IT IS BOMBPROOF!!
There will be video, if I can just get my editing software to work as advertised ...grrr.
I just thought of something, what if you added a 4th prusik loop, could you eliminate the Figure 9? We'd have to make sure the last two prusik loops were on each side of the 2nd "tree" and then we'd just use a toggle (stick) to hold both loops together. We would pull the ridgeline through the 3rd and 4th loop's prusik (IOW, slide the pursik loops) in order to adjust the tension/length of the ridge line. Though maybe the pursiks might not be able to hold the tension? No, that shouldn't be an issue as in the current design, we expect the 3rd loop to hold the tension by itself.
This does work. I threw a 4th prusik onto the TRL I had hanging in the basement, added a toggle and it held fine. I think I like the fig9 better as I found it easier (+quicker) to adjust the tension on the TRL. I found it a little harder to adjust the 4th prusik once the TRL was under tension. But that's just me...
Hey Tlbj, Here is a post from a few months back where I suggested that set up to Climbslaker. I works well and sets up quick if you are wanting a full ridge line and don't want to deal with any hardware.
Older post here (http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/showpost.php?p=156165&postcount=11)
How much tension are you able to achieve like that?
I think that ability to tension the RL with the Figure 9 negates the weight penalty. Not to mention, the Figure 9 is attached to the 3rd prusik. No chance of losing it.
If you dont like the Figure 9, just use a truckers hitch. Far simpler.
Also... If anyone has a custom idea... Ill gladly mock it up and give you real world results. If something doesnt work, I wont tell you it does. I cant stress enough the custom end of what I do.
Ill even get you down to how much tension you can place on the prusik knot before it slips. If you need another wrap to hold it tight, etc.
I'll line up fer that!
BTW, used my ridgeline & tie-outs on Saturday (-5 F overnight hang) IT IS BOMBPROOF!!
There will be video, if I can just get my editing software to work as advertised ...grrr.
Excellent news! Im glad it worked out for you.
Sorry I didnt have the Grey when you ordered. If you like, Ill gladly swap it out for you once the line arrives.
Rilmoigan
01-25-2010, 19:43
Excellent news! Im glad it worked out for you.
Sorry I didnt have the Grey when you ordered. If you like, Ill gladly swap it out for you once the line arrives.
Deal! -Seeing as it's only been up twice...once when I demoed some of the "cool stuff" with Tinny and this last overnighter. Just let me know. -I am such a sucker for subdued colors...
TiredFeet
01-25-2010, 20:14
I just thought of something, what if you added a 4th prusik loop, could you eliminate the Figure 9? We'd have to make sure the last two prusik loops were on each side of the 2nd "tree" and then we'd just use a toggle (stick) to hold both loops together. We would pull the ridgeline through the 3rd and 4th loop's prusik (IOW, slide the pursik loops) in order to adjust the tension/length of the ridge line. Though maybe the pursiks might not be able to hold the tension? No, that shouldn't be an issue as in the current design, we expect the 3rd loop to hold the tension by itself.
If I'm understanding your suggestion, wouldn't you have to thread the line through the 3rd Prussic and back to the 4th? I guess you could use a toggle on the 3rd, push a bight through the 3rd and a trail stick toggle through the bight. Zing-It/Lash-It/Dynaglide is slick enough it should slide easily over the toggle. How do you suggest securing to the 4th Prussic? In my experience, it is difficult trying to secure a trucker's hitch with slick line like Dyneema, it tends to slip before I can get it secured firmly. Seems like this would be a bigger problem with Zing-It/Lash-It/Dynaglide since it is not only slippery, but small.
I think I'll probably stick to the Figure 9 though since I don't have to thread the line through it, just wrap, pull and wrap again. No problem securing the trucker's hitch using the Figure 9.
tlbj6142
01-25-2010, 20:32
I think that ability to tension the RL with the Figure 9 negates the weight penalty. Not to mention, the Figure 9 is attached to the 3rd prusik. No chance of losing it.Agree. i just had a random thought.
If you dont like the Figure 9, just use a truckers hitch. Far simpler.The problem I have with a trucker's hitch as it always seems to slip just a bit as I'm tying the half-hitch, or two, to finish the job. That bit of slip doesn't happen with a Figure-9 because you are able to keep tension on the line as you cinch it down (place in the Figure-9's teeth), and with "dual-prusiks" you can adjust it after the toggle is in place. But, the later is a bit more cumbersome than it is worth.
Figure-9 wins. Though the link above to the older post should work as well. It is not like there is that much force on the tarp's ridge line. Aren't Figure-9s sort of limited as well?
Agree. i just had a random thought.The problem I have with a trucker's hitch as it always seems to slip just a bit as I'm tying the half-hitch, or two, to finish the job.
Keep in mind... your tarps ridgeline doesnt need to be guitar string tight.
For the truckers hitch, have you tried going back around the tree before you tie it off? The friction from going back around may help keep the RL tight.
We used a variation of it when I was doing landscape work. Its how we would lash down a load of brush on a trailer. We called it a trailer hitch. However.. Tie a simple noose or strangle snare somewhere in the working end of the line close to your tree. Then run the tail through your loop and reef it tight and tie off.
http://www.realknots.com/knots/noose.htm
Heres one I just did up....
Form 2 loops around your fingers making sure you are using the tail to make then and not the standing end. If you do this backwards, your loop will close up on your line...
http://i411.photobucket.com/albums/pp200/opie0074/P1010083.jpg
Form a bight by pulling the tail through the center of your loops
http://i411.photobucket.com/albums/pp200/opie0074/P1010084.jpg
And set it....
http://i411.photobucket.com/albums/pp200/opie0074/P1010085.jpg
When you are done, this pulls apart by pulling the tail. You can place this anywhere in the line and holds under tension.
The small metal Figure 9's have a 50 pound rating.
hikingshoes
01-25-2010, 21:16
I just started using the trucker's hitch on my tarp and im very happy with it.Im also thinking about using the TH on my hammock as well,just to save on weight.
Hey opie,what type of rope would you use on the hammock?If i go that route.HS
I just started using the trucker's hitch on my tarp and im very happy with it.Im also thinking about using the TH on my hammock as well,just to save on weight.
Hey opie,what type of rope would you use on the hammock?If i go that route.HS
Youre probably going to want something with a sheath so it will generate some friction. Ive had good luck with some 5/6mm cord from REI.... Take your pick... Bluewater rope
http://www.rei.com/search?query=bluewater
Or you can grab something with a Dyneema core... I dont have any good links.. but its out there.
I am sure this has been covered already but I could not find it. Is there any reason not to use a whoopie to connect 2 lengths of amstel together long enough to make a tarp ridge line with 2 small biners at either end to snap it to itself around the trees ? Has anybody had any success with something like this. I am thinking about something like this with prussics for the tarp attachment.
I am sure this has been covered already but I could not find it. Is there any reason not to use a whoopie to connect 2 lengths of amstel together long enough to make a tarp ridge line with 2 small biners at either end to snap it to itself around the trees ? Has anybody had any success with something like this. I am thinking about something like this with prussics for the tarp attachment.
Its difficult to get a whoopie to release under tension if you have no free line to play with.
Its difficult to get a whoopie to release under tension if you have no free line to play with.
I haven`t worked with the material or the knots so I am just spitballing. Would the line get to tight to release the biner or maybe sometype of hook at the tree connections ?
I haven`t worked with the material or the knots so I am just spitballing. Would the line get to tight to release the biner or maybe sometype of hook at the tree connections ?
I suppose if you use a toggle at your tree connection points, its doable.
The UCR variant would work better than a whoopie.
Also... Barefoot Child had an idea when we met up today... Stay tuned. I told him I would mock it up and I think it will be an excellent solution for attaching your tarp to the prusiks.
Here it is... A built in toggle on the prusik loops...Mind you this is a crude toggle, just a length of wooden dowel... But no chance of losing it, no biner, no clip, no extra toggle to carry and no scrounging for sticks.
http://i411.photobucket.com/albums/pp200/opie0074/P1010086.jpg
http://i411.photobucket.com/albums/pp200/opie0074/P1010087.jpg
I just would need to find a good source for some toggle buttons...
Barefoot Child
01-27-2010, 00:57
Arrow Head Equipment!
Who knows maybe Santa Dad... aka Paul could hook you up.
What about it Paul...can you help the boy out?
But seriously he might be someone to talk to when it comes to finding stuff like that there toggle button thingee. You mean a real toggle button and not something that you can use for a toggle....like what you see on some coats some times..right?
Im going to look for some Delrin or Nylon rod today. Easy to cut, wont rot and hopefully I can find some that is UV resistant. I found some I can order.... just want to check local first.
oldgringo
01-27-2010, 05:14
Solid rod will be heavier than necessary.
That said, look at the adjusting rods for blinds.
Solid rod will be heavier than necessary.
That said, look at the adjusting rods for blinds.
Yes... That was a thought.
However.... I would want something that wont leave a rough edge. With a solid rod I can round over the edges. With a tube, there isnt alot of room there to round over the edge. (for the hole in the middle.)
And whats 2-3" of say 1/4-3/8 rod going to weigh? Ill find out!!
I think the adjustable blind rods would get brittle after long term exposure to the elements, especially cold.
I have a piece of 1/4" aluminum rod. It weighs .0075 ounces per inch. 2.3333 grams per inch.
I have a piece of 1/4" aluminum rod. It weighs .0075 ounces per inch. 2.3333 grams per inch.
Thats an option too. It would be soft enough I could round over the edges from the hole so it wouldnt fray the line...
OK.... I got some Delrin rod. Im going to mock up a RL tonight.
Also... A new way of attachment to your trees that will require no hardware or knots.
sandykayak
01-28-2010, 17:19
What is wrong with this picture?
I've been using Byers of Maine's micro-ropes with my $20 Moskito Traveller for a few years and love the simplicity and the cost. got the ropes from campmor for ab $15/pair.
But I was feeling guilty about using a ROPE. So, over the past few weeks I've been buying dutch clips, seatbelt straps, the pretty pointy end cinch buckles, and the continuous chain link (?) (can't remember offhand who I got them from - have bought from arrowhead and ??).
Was planning to practice with the new suspension system this weekend.
In the meantime, scott is making me the tarp and I'm wanting to order Opie's tarp ridgeline (I have 6 JRB tensioner guylines) (and I'm looking at the hammock ridgeline also). So, I'm carefully following this thread and see that Opie is now looking for toggles.
Well, the toggles on my micro-ropes are really lightweight aluminum....see here....
http://www.colonialmedical.com/product.php?productid=21767
and, to add insult to injury, this ad for the micro-ropes says that they don't hurt trees!
Allright... While Im waiting for some smaller Plastic rod, I did a mock-up.
Now, this is a mixture of different ideas, so I am not claiming any of this as my own. Im just making it.
The non Figure 9 end... The toggle is built into the rope.
http://i411.photobucket.com/albums/pp200/opie0074/P1010089.jpg
http://i411.photobucket.com/albums/pp200/opie0074/P1010092.jpg
For your tarp attachment...
http://i411.photobucket.com/albums/pp200/opie0074/P1010090.jpg
http://i411.photobucket.com/albums/pp200/opie0074/P1010094.jpg
The other end will keep the Figure 9 on a prusik.
This rod is a bit on the heavy/large size, so Im not disclosing weight yet since I more than likely wont use it.
http://i411.photobucket.com/albums/pp200/opie0074/P1010091.jpg
sclittlefield
01-28-2010, 21:38
and, to add insult to injury, this ad for the micro-ropes says that they don't hurt trees!
If it's any consolation... that add regarding the non-hurting of trees is very inaccurate. 5mm/6mm rope will hurt trees if used as the hammock suspension w/o tree huggers. Maybe not all trees, and maybe not if used short term on certain trees, but generally speaking - it will do damage.
You'll enjoy your new system. :)
Oh, and Opie - this toggle idea is brilliant!
3 toggles add 8 grams to the weight of the TRL. There will be one on the end that does not have the Figure 9 and 1 built into each prusik to attach your tarp to. These will be built in with no chance of them falling off. They are made from 3/8 HDPE.
I chose the HDPE over Aluminum because cutting and drilling aluminum leaves rouch edges that can wear the line over time. Yes the Aluminum is probably lighter, but there would be more work into each one smoothing cuts and holes.
Price will increase $2.00, if you want them.
billvann
02-02-2010, 17:10
That's just too slick! I'm going to have to break down and order one, and the guy lines too. Darn it, Opie! What am I gonna do with the Triptease and figure nines I just bought?
I think I read in a different thread that you were out of grey. Is that correct? Does that just leave red and yellow?
That's just too slick! I'm going to have to break down and order one, and the guy lines too. Darn it, Opie! What am I gonna do with the Triptease and figure nines I just bought?
I think I read in a different thread that you were out of grey. Is that correct? Does that just leave red and yellow?
UPS is scheduled to drop off Grey to me tomorrow. Both 1.75 and 2.2.
The 2.2 will be for the RL and the 1.75 will be for guylines.
Hang onto the Figure 9's, theres always a use for them!!! If you want, I can eliminate the one that would come with the TRL and that will knock $2 off the price, since you have them.
And dont count that triptease out.... Youll find a use for it. It makes great zipper pulls.
BillyBob58
02-02-2010, 20:46
What is wrong with this picture?
I've been using Byers of Maine's micro-ropes with my $20 Moskito Traveller for a few years and love the simplicity and the cost. got the ropes from campmor for ab $15/pair.
But I was feeling guilty about using a ROPE. So, over the past few weeks I've been buying dutch clips, seatbelt straps, the pretty pointy end cinch buckles, and the continuous chain link (?) (can't remember offhand who I got them from - have bought from arrowhead and ??).
Was planning to practice with the new suspension system this weekend.
In the meantime, scott is making me the tarp and I'm wanting to order Opie's tarp ridgeline (I have 6 JRB tensioner guylines) (and I'm looking at the hammock ridgeline also). So, I'm carefully following this thread and see that Opie is now looking for toggles.
Well, the toggles on my micro-ropes are really lightweight aluminum....see here....
http://www.colonialmedical.com/product.php?productid=21767
and, to add insult to injury, this ad for the micro-ropes says that they don't hurt trees!
I'm surprised those won't hurt trees! Can this be correct?
Interesting that these hammocks and accessories are being sold by a medical supply group!
Ok... I got an order here so thought Id take the chance for a detailed picture....
The grey prusiks are for the tarps D- rings.
The lone toggle in the line is for attachment to your first point. Wrap the line around your tree and toggle the loop. You'll see a bead built into this fixed eye. I needed to find a way to prevent the toggle from coming off the line. I thought about tying a stopper knot in the line... But for a couple reasons decided against it. So the bead was the natural choice. Its weight addition is negligible and it prevents the toggle from coming off the end.
http://i411.photobucket.com/albums/pp200/opie0074/P1010100.jpg
BlackGoat
02-03-2010, 20:25
Ok... I got an order here so thought Id take the chance for a detailed picture....
The grey prusiks are for the tarps D- rings.
The lone toggle in the line is for attachment to your first point. Wrap the line around your tree and toggle the loop. You'll see a bead built into this fixed eye. I needed to find a way to prevent the toggle from coming off the line. I thought about tying a stopper knot in the line... But for a couple reasons decided against it. So the bead was the natural choice. Its weight addition is negligible and it prevents the toggle from coming off the end.
http://i411.photobucket.com/albums/pp200/opie0074/P1010100.jpg
Opie, what are you charging for this new creation? Looks good.
thanks,
DG
Goat, the price is $23.50 shipped USPS.
The TRL is also available in grey now.
Just ordered the ridgeline w/ toggles. Looks awesome. I can't imagine a simpler way to run a knot-less ridgeline.
Now I need to save my pennies for a BWD 3-season hex and some grizz beaks.
Current tarp is a beastly 14x12 chinook tarp that uses grommets at the ridgeline instead of webbing/d-rings. what would be the best method for attaching the ridgeline to the grommets?
OK .... Opie, good looking stuff. Just put an order in for a ridgeline (impulse buy!) and that fantastic looking tarp suspension..... Whoooooooo.
Ya'll have a tremendous vacation.
Shug
BlackGoat
02-04-2010, 11:16
Order sent for the Gray TRL with toggles.
DG
Just ordered the ridgeline w/ toggles. Looks awesome. I can't imagine a simpler way to run a knot-less ridgeline.
Now I need to save my pennies for a BWD 3-season hex and some grizz beaks.
Current tarp is a beastly 14x12 chinook tarp that uses grommets at the ridgeline instead of webbing/d-rings. what would be the best method for attaching the ridgeline to the grommets?
Got it, Thank you and it should ship tomorrow.
OK .... Opie, good looking stuff. Just put an order in for a ridgeline (impulse buy!) and that fantastic looking tarp suspension..... Whoooooooo.
Ya'll have a tremendous vacation.
Shug
Shug, thanks. The vacation is loooooong overdue and much needed.
I havent seen an order come through that needs to head to Minn. If you placed it with me, check to make sure it went through.
Order sent for the Gray TRL with toggles.
DG
Thanks Goat... I look forward to helping you with what you need.
Should be in now opie .... ordered this morn while in TX and must not have completed my transaction. Now home and I re-did it ..... yep .... that was it . My haste.
Shug
Should be in now opie .... ordered this morn while in TX and must not have completed my transaction. Now home and I re-did it ..... yep .... that was it . My haste.
Shug
Got it, Thanks!
Should ship tomorrow.
TiredFeet
02-04-2010, 19:41
Opie a question on the toggles.
It looks like the toggles are drilled off center. Wouldn't they work better, i.e., catch the D-ring better, if drilled on center?
Opie a question on the toggles.
It looks like the toggles are drilled off center. Wouldn't they work better, i.e., catch the D-ring better, if drilled on center?
I was waiting for someone to ask about that.
The answer is no. Well, it could be yes.
In order to use the center of the toggle, it would nee to be about 2.5" long. Offsetting the hole allows me to cut the toggles just under 2".
Now...When you toggle your tarps D ring.....
wait... Ill snap a few pics.
Here is a pic with the hole in the center of the toggle....
http://i411.photobucket.com/albums/pp200/opie0074/P1010101.jpg
Here you see, if the toggle goes off to the side, its going to come out of the D-ring... And with the hole in the center, the toggle wants to rotate around based on how off center the hole is....
http://i411.photobucket.com/albums/pp200/opie0074/P1010102.jpg
Off center
http://i411.photobucket.com/albums/pp200/opie0074/P1010103.jpg
And here you can see no matter the position, the toggle wont come out as long as its loaded...
http://i411.photobucket.com/albums/pp200/opie0074/P1010104.jpg
http://i411.photobucket.com/albums/pp200/opie0074/P1010105.jpg
The short side of the toggle is always facing the direction of pull and the prusik always goes up to the D-ring. So the outward side only needs to be long enough to keep the toggle in the D-ring.
I could put the hole in the center, but the toggle would need to be longer.
And for the gram weenies, heavier.
Barefoot Child
02-05-2010, 02:45
Opie,
the pictures were worth a thousand words...great explaination...short and sweet. :D
You may not be a gram weiner :laugh:, but you sure think like one.
ricegravy
02-05-2010, 11:06
Thank you Opie for all of your pictures and explanations.
-Ricegravy!
Thanks BC, rice. Hopefully Ill get to work on the SB prior to taking off.
TiredFeet
02-05-2010, 15:49
Ahhh - just knew you had a reason. Thanks
Looking forward to doing some video on this set-up on a new tarp video ....!!!!!!
Hawk-eye
02-05-2010, 17:01
Looking forward to doing some video on this set-up on a new tarp video ....!!!!!!
GOODIEEEEEEEEEEEE! Looking forward to that meself! ;)
GOODIEEEEEEEEEEEE! Looking forward to that meself! ;)
Folks love a tarp video ...... they get a ton of hits on my YTube site....
Looking forward to doing some video on this set-up on a new tarp video ....!!!!!!
What more could a gear vendor ask for???
Free Advertising!!!
Ill look forward to that.
You should have it in a couple days.
TRL arrived in the mail today, thanks Opie!
eagerly awaiting shug's new video...
TRL arrived in the mail today, thanks Opie!
eagerly awaiting shug's new video...
Excellent news!!
Im excited to see what Shug comes up with as well.
lazy river road
02-08-2010, 14:20
Opie that looks like an awesome invention and an easy way to tie your tarp up, what are you useing for those toggles, plastic tubeing?
BlackGoat
02-08-2010, 14:26
I got my TRL also today in the mail. Looks good, will test it tonight to see if it is going to work for me.
Thanks for the quick service, I really love our dedicated hammock forums cottage manufacturers. Their customer service and lead times can't be beat!
DG
Opie that looks like an awesome invention and an easy way to tie your tarp up, what are you useing for those toggles, plastic tubeing?
Its 3/8" HDPE solid rod. I have some 1/4" rod too, but didnt have the ability to consistently drill it until recently. I picked up one of those drill press rigs for my dremel. Now Im going to try the 1/4 rod.
I got my TRL also today in the mail. Looks good, will test it tonight to see if it is going to work for me.
Thanks for the quick service, I really love our dedicated hammock forums cottage manufacturers. Their customer service and lead times can't be beat!
DG
Good to hear you got it.
Keep in mind...every order is built when the order comes in. I dont have anything pre-made ready to ship.
BlackGoat
02-10-2010, 14:59
I got my TRL also today in the mail. Looks good, will test it tonight to see if it is going to work for me.
Thanks for the quick service, I really love our dedicated hammock forums cottage manufacturers. Their customer service and lead times can't be beat!
DG
Opie, my hat goes off to you. This toggled tarp ridge line is pure genius, I have tried a lot of different methods for suspending my tarp and I believe this may be my absolute favorite. It sets up in seconds and the toggles make tarp life way to easy. No more fighting knots for me in the rain and the cold.
I am thinking that one could add a couple more prusiks between the tarp toggles and could be used for reefing the tarp to help ease setup/takedown during windy conditions. They could also be used to hang a lantern if one uses the under-the-tarp ridge line approach.
One question, is there a preferred method to keep that much line from tangling up when it is stored? I have a tried a couple different methods and still seem to run into tangles when trying to deploy, they are minor compared to mason line but still slow me down a bit.
Thanks again for a great product and customer service.
DG
Opie, my hat goes off to you. This toggled tarp ridge line is pure genius, I have tried a lot of different methods for suspending my tarp and I believe this may be my absolute favorite. It sets up in seconds and the toggles make tarp life way to easy. No more fighting knots for me in the rain and the cold.
I am thinking that one could add a couple more prusiks between the tarp toggles and could be used for reefing the tarp to help ease setup/takedown during windy conditions. They could also be used to hang a lantern if one uses the under-the-tarp ridge line approach.
One question, is there a preferred method to keep that much line from tangling up when it is stored? I have a tried a couple different methods and still seem to run into tangles when trying to deploy, they are minor compared to mason line but still slow me down a bit.
Thanks again for a great product and customer service.
DG
Wrap it up figure 8 style on your hand. Thats how I wind up everything with any length.
You can do the same thing with the left over line after set-up. That way its not hanging down getting tangled up in everything that comes across it.
Here is a pic with the hole in the center of the toggle....
http://i411.photobucket.com/albums/pp200/opie0074/P1010105.jpg
The short side of the toggle is always facing the direction of pull and the prusik always goes up to the D-ring. So the outward side only needs to be long enough to keep the toggle in the D-ring.
Hi Opie and all. I just received the new ridgeline. I really like it. Very good craftsmanship. I actually bought two. One for a MacCat being downstreamed to my son. Works perfect with the MacCat. The other I want to pair it with my new Superfly. Just FYI that the toggle is a very tight squeeze through the ridgeline connection rings that Brandon has on the Superfly. You can force it through but it compresses the line coming out of each side of the toggle. This is fine if you are pushing it through once and leaving the ridgeline attached. I remove mine so I fear the regular placing and removing will damage the line. I added a small extension loop to solve this.
Mr. Toot..... You can always shorten the toggle too.....
Or is it that its to fat?
EDIT:
The smaller toggle on the non Figure 9 end.... Can you try that and see if that size will work? I didnt know the Superfly has rings on its ridgeline. It looks like for the WB tarps, having the toggle drilled in the center and a bit shorter would work better.
Let me know on the fitment and Ill get 2 new ones made up and sent out so you dont have to modify the attachment.
Mr. Toot..... You can always shorten the toggle too.....
Or is it that its to fat?
EDIT:
The smaller toggle on the non Figure 9 end.... Can you try that and see if that size will work? I didnt know the Superfly has rings on its ridgeline. It looks like for the WB tarps, having the toggle drilled in the center and a bit shorter would work better.
Let me know on the fitment and Ill get 2 new ones made up and sent out so you dont have to modify the attachment.
Too fat. I put a few pictures in my gallery. Someone please tell me how to post in a post like this.
Thanks in advance for sending ones that fit.
Rilmoigan
02-13-2010, 09:44
and I thought about that point, re the toggle diameter but figured that the toggle would fit. I guess that I will leave the RL in place on the fly after I put it on. Although I do have one of Mr. Littlefields Winter Dream v2 tarps on my list for this year at some point...
Opie, do you have anything that is slightly smaller diameter but would hold well as a toggle?
Too fat. I put a few pictures in my gallery. Someone please tell me how to post in a post like this.
Thanks in advance for sending ones that fit.
and I thought about that point, re the toggle diameter but figured that the toggle would fit. I guess that I will leave the RL in place on the fly after I put it on. Although I do have one of Mr. Littlefields Winter Dream v2 tarps on my list for this year at some point...
Opie, do you have anything that is slightly smaller diameter but would hold well as a toggle?
I do have some 1/4" rod... Lemme see how it fairs. With the rings being that small, I can also go shorter on the toggle.
For loops in the middle of a line I love the Butterfly knot. Kinda like a double bowline in that no matter how much load you put on it you just crack it and it will untie....
http://www.netknots.com/assets/images/butterfly_knot_netknots1.jpg
Opie,
Quick question. On your website for your Prusik Loops you say....
"If you will be using this to support your body weight, then you must pick the Amsteel Blue."
I just ordered 100 feet of Amsteel 7/64" (2.2mm) in the grey color. Specs are identical to the Blue. Is there something special about the Blue that I am missing? Is this a dumb question? :jj:
The Superfly rings are pretty thin. I am also going to send Brandon an email as see how he thinks they will fare under the pressure of the toggle being tightened.
Rilmoigan
02-13-2010, 10:37
I do have some 1/4" rod... Lemme see how it fairs. With the rings being that small, I can also go shorter on the toggle.
Thinking about the sizing issue for the Superfly from the "opposing" side, I will also see if it's possible to replace the stock ridge-end rings with something a little bigger. I like the current toggles; they're "sturdy-chunky", that's also a good thing, in my book.
I'll look to see what you think of the smaller diameter toggle once you've messed around with it some...
Opie,
Quick question. On your website for your Prusik Loops you say....
"If you will be using this to support your body weight, then you must pick the Amsteel Blue."
I just ordered 100 feet of Amsteel 7/64" (2.2mm) in the grey color. Specs are identical to the Blue. Is there something special about the Blue that I am missing? Is this a dumb question? :jj:
The Amsteel Blue has a higher rating than Amsteel.
Even still, Amsteel is still plenty strong. I put that disclaimer in there because the prusiks I make with the smaller line
A) arent rated more than 580#.
B) the buries I use on the smaller line range from 1.5" to 2".
The Superfly rings are pretty thin. I am also going to send Brandon an email as see how he thinks they will fare under the pressure of the toggle being tightened.
Thinking about the sizing issue for the Superfly from the "opposing" side, I will also see if it's possible to replace the stock ridge-end rings with something a little bigger. I like the current toggles; they're "sturdy-chunky", that's also a good thing, in my book.
I'll look to see what you think of the smaller diameter toggle once you've messed around with it some...
The 1/4" HDPE rod wont work. The hole weakens it to much.
I just picked up some aluminum arrow shaft and will work on that.
I need to know the diameter of the rings on the Superfly.
The 1/4" HDPE rod wont work. The hole weakens it to much.
I just picked up some aluminum arrow shaft and will work on that.
I need to know the diameter of the rings on the Superfly.
Brandon says the torque on the rings won't be a problem. The diameter is exactly equal to your current toggle plus the slight addition of the line when compressed against it. I am away from the tarp right now but can measure later. Thanks
Brandon says the torque on the rings won't be a problem. The diameter is exactly equal to your current toggle plus the slight addition of the line when compressed against it. I am away from the tarp right now but can measure later. Thanks
Duh....
Thats fine. Just need to calculate the length needed for the new toggle.
Heres the aluminum toggle next to the plastic toggle.....
http://i411.photobucket.com/albums/pp200/opie0074/P1010118.jpg
It shaves 1 gram off the weight too.
If you have ordered a Tarp RL from me, and have a WB tarp with Rings on the tieouts, send me a PM so I can get these aluminum ones made up and out to you.
Thanks for the clarification Opie!
Despite the well known name of Amsteel-Blue they do make it in different colors. I am getting the grey for stealth reasons.
http://www.reddenmarine.com/amsteelblue/
Cheers!
Bleemus
OK... So... Ive been getting questions on whether the aluminum is replacing the plastic.
My intention right now is to offer the aluminum to customers with a WB tarp because the plastic toggles are to big to fit through the rings.
I just bought 40' of the plastic rod....
And heres the deal... The aluminum toggle takes almost twice the time to prepare than the plastic. There is a higher chance of wear with the aluminum so I have to chamfer the hole edges and then take the Dremel and run a bit on the inside where I drilled the hole for the prusik. Its also much more expensive.
If I can find some aluminum rod for around the same price of the plastic, than Id be willing to offer it at the same price.
Right now... If you would like the aluminum instead of the plastic and you dont have a WB tarp, then the price has to increase. I still need to do some arithmetic, But it wont be more than a couple dollars.
Thanks for sending the aluminum toggles Opie. They do work well.
As an R&D note, I do think that the loop they are sitting on has a limited life. I think the aluminum is already showing signs of a cutting effect when prussiks are are tightened. Just info as you look to perfect a solution.
Thanks for your continued efforts.
oldgringo
02-21-2010, 09:08
Thanks for sending the aluminum toggles Opie. They do work well.
As an R&D note, I do think that the loop they are sitting on has a limited life. I think the aluminum is already showing signs of a cutting effect when prussiks are are tightened. Just info as you look to perfect a solution.
Thanks for your continued efforts.
Try this: put a small split ring through one of the holes, and run the cord through the ring.:)
oldgringo
02-21-2010, 09:10
Never mind...that won't work.:(
Try this: put a small split ring through one of the holes, and run the cord through the ring.:)
Thanks but no room for anything else through the holes. I will just use them and see how long till degrade.
Thanks but no room for anything else through the holes. I will just use them and see how long till degrade.
Let me know and in the meantime Ill come up with a solution.
Let me know and in the meantime Ill come up with a solution.
Will do and for all, I was not complaining at all. I think it is an excellent product and Opie's response to the challenge of the WB Superfly setup was fabulous!
Will do and for all, I was not complaining at all. I think it is an excellent product and Opie's response to the challenge of the WB Superfly setup was fabulous!
Thanks.
Ive found something to roundover the edges a bit. More dremel work!! Just need to get to the store.
Mr. Toot... Ive been handling this for just over an hour now while my wifes brother is visiting. Spinning the toggle under tension, running the line back and forth through it and this is the result..
http://i411.photobucket.com/albums/pp200/opie0074/P1010137.jpg
Im still going to see about rounding the edges over some more.. But I think youll be OK.
Some testing updates...
A 3 wrap prusik of 1.75 on 2.2 starts to slip around 38 pounds.
A 4 wrap prusik of 1.75 on 2.2 held past 50. I think I saw it go up to 54 with nary a budge.
fisher_of_man
02-23-2010, 00:18
this is my first post....I've lurked in the background for a long time just gaining some knowledge about hammocks and all of the accessories, etc....Opie...you are one resourceful guy...I love seeing all the different methods you come up with to make things easier...and the fact that you never stop there...but keep trying to find new and better ways.
so I was thinking...and maybe totally wrong:confused:...so feel free to point out any errors in this thought process....but some that responded to this (and the other thread in the tarp section (http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/showthread.php?t=14617) that wondered why not just use the tarp tieouts to each side of the ridgeline rather than a single continuous ridgeline. Obviously, there are benefits to each...and its a preference type thing. one of the benefits that was mentioned over and over was the ease of centering the tarp or adjustability.
So my idea/question is…why not have the both of best worlds. This would let you cater to both crowds, still over a lighter setup, and continue the great adjustability of the ridgeline. Why not put the eye with a bead on an end (with the attached wood toggle) to go around the tree like in the picture below…shorten the line to say 15 feet and have one prusik knot that would larkshead onto the d-ring of the tarp (like the second picture below)?...with one of these on each side, you maintain the ease and preference of the non-single ridgeline and still give it complete and quick adjustment like you’ve got with your single TRL.
tree side (you'd use this without the other prusik knots and the figure 9 to wrap around the tree)
http://i411.photobucket.com/albums/pp200/opie0074/P1010100.jpg
tarp end with prusik knot:
http://i411.photobucket.com/albums/pp200/opie0074/P1010031.jpg
Would this not work and still give a lighter option? like I said...if this is crazy thinking, redundant or wouldn't work...please say so...but I don't see why it wouldn't
FOM:D
Barefoot Child
02-23-2010, 00:25
Fisher of man,
absolutely great first post...pictures and everything! And the questions just keep coming. Now we will all have to look at the pictures and think real hard about what you have said...my brain is already hurting. :D
fisher_of_man
02-23-2010, 00:27
Fisher of man,
absolutely great first post...pictures and everything! And the questions just keep coming. Now we will all have to look at the pictures and think real hard about what you have said...my brain is already hurting. :D
yeah...sorry about that...not sure...but there was probably an easier way to say that. :D
Barefoot Child
02-23-2010, 00:29
You did just fine! :D
angrysparrow
02-23-2010, 00:41
Would this not work and still give a lighter option?
That would work just fine. But it loses some benefits of having the full line - as stated here (http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/showpost.php?p=211884&postcount=17).
- less stress on tarp
- ability to hang things from line under tarp
- setup can be easier in windy conditions (drape tarp over line)
- ability to cut out the middle section if you NEED a bit of line and will still work as double line version
The two line/toggle/prusik method is one that a member asked about just a few days ago... And so happens I mocked it up and have pictures..... It does eliminate 1 of the toggles, and the figure 9.
The orange line represents your tarp....
http://i411.photobucket.com/albums/pp200/opie0074/P1010143.jpg
http://i411.photobucket.com/albums/pp200/opie0074/P1010144.jpg
http://i411.photobucket.com/albums/pp200/opie0074/P1010145.jpg
http://i411.photobucket.com/albums/pp200/opie0074/P1010146.jpg
And the weight reduction you would gain is grams.... Youll lose 4 grams from the figure 9 and IIRC 2 or 3 grams from the toggle. Then the elimination of 10' or so of line... which again is grams.
Allright, the weight savings is more than I thought it would be. A full RL with 3 toggles and the figure 9 comes in at 37 grams, give or take a gram.
The 2 line with 10' on either side comes in at...
http://i411.photobucket.com/albums/pp200/opie0074/P1010148.jpg
fisher_of_man
02-23-2010, 19:36
opie....
thanks for checking this out. I was just curious...not a gram weenie myself...but the idea just kept bouncing around in my mind and thought I'd ask. glad to see i wasn't the only one that had thought about it...and I guess for those wanting to shed some weight, this might help. you know... 14 grams to some is...well...huge:D thanks for checking this out and examining yet another method to make it all work.
Schneiderlein
02-23-2010, 23:46
The two line/toggle/prusik method is one that a member asked about just a few days ago... And so happens I mocked it up and have pictures..... It does eliminate 1 of the toggles, and the figure 9.
The orange line represents your tarp....
[snip]
And the weight reduction you would gain is grams.... Youll lose 4 grams from the figure 9 and IIRC 2 or 3 grams from the toggle. Then the elimination of 10' or so of line... which again is grams.
Actually, that other member was me. I wrote opie a PM and asked about it, and a few hours later he had it all mocked up and sent me pictures! He is a really great guy!
I will try this out when I get back from my business trip. Not so much for the weight savings, but more because I am not happy with the Figure 9s I'm currently using.
Does anybody have a good idea what kind of load might be on the ridgeline tie-outs in high winds? Opie tested the 1.75mm Prusik on the 2.2mm line and got over 50 lbf for a four wrap knot, which is the load rating of the Figure 9s. Is that enough, too little or too much?
fisher_of_man
02-23-2010, 23:55
Actually, that other member was me. I wrote opie a PM and asked about it, and a few hours later he had it all mocked up and sent me pictures! He is a really great guy!
I will try this out when I get back from my business trip. Not so much for the weight savings, but more because I am not happy with the Figure 9s I'm currently using.
Does anybody have a good idea what kind of load might be on the ridgeline tie-outs in high winds? Opie tested the 1.75mm Prusik on the 2.2mm line and got over 50 lbf for a four wrap knot, which is the load rating of the Figure 9s. Is that enough, too little or too much?
great...I look forward to hearing the results of a real test!
GrizzlyAdams
02-23-2010, 23:56
Actually, that other member was me. I wrote opie a PM and asked about it, and a few hours later he had it all mocked up and sent me pictures! He is a really great guy!
I will try this out when I get back from my business trip. Not so much for the weight savings, but more because I am not happy with the Figure 9s I'm currently using.
Does anybody have a good idea what kind of load might be on the ridgeline tie-outs in high winds? Opie tested the 1.75mm Prusik on the 2.2mm line and got over 50 lbf for a four wrap knot, which is the load rating of the Figure 9s. Is that enough, too little or too much?
No real physics here but gut feel based on experience....it takes a lot more force to bend a Figure-9 than you're going to get on a tarp ridgeline. In any case it seems to me that in a big wind something else is likely to give first...stakes launched into the next county, tarp tie-out tabs ripping out, fun stuff like that.
That all said, I know I've bent an Fig-9, I just can't remember how. A memory is a terrible thing to lose...
Schneiderlein
02-24-2010, 00:49
No real physics here but gut feel based on experience....it takes a lot more force to bend a Figure-9 than you're going to get on a tarp ridgeline. In any case it seems to me that in a big wind something else is likely to give first...stakes launched into the next county, tarp tie-out tabs ripping out, fun stuff like that.
That all said, I know I've bent an Fig-9, I just can't remember how. A memory is a terrible thing to lose...
I think the load rating on the Figure-9 is conservative, and it probably takes a lot more than 50 lbf before it fails. From my limited big wind experience, I have to agree, the stakes are the first to go...
Hey opie .... had the tarp continuos ridgeline out using on an over-nighter and tarp filming trip. I am growing quite fond of the set-up.
Shot a lot of it as folks still seem to be confused about it and why this when you could do that ... and so forth. It will be in my Tarp Series videos.
One note though ... On the end that goes on the tree first ... with the bead ... I feel that toggle could be a wee bit longer. Had it slip twice while doing the filming. Would not take much ... 1/2" would suffice I suppose. As this is the first end and then you end up messing with the tarp and figure 9 and so forth it would be better in my opinion to have it a bit more secure.
That is all. Just wanted to toss that out there as you seem to care ... which is a terrific thing.
Good darn set-up.
Shug
Hey opie .... had the tarp continuos ridgeline out using on an over-nighter and tarp filming trip. I am growing quite fond of the set-up.
Shot a lot of it as folks still seem to be confused about it and why this when you could do that ... and so forth. It will be in my Tarp Series videos.
One note though ... On the end that goes on the tree first ... with the bead ... I feel that toggle could be a wee bit longer. Had it slip twice while doing the filming. Would not take much ... 1/2" would suffice I suppose. As this is the first end and then you end up messing with the tarp and figure 9 and so forth it would be better in my opinion to have it a bit more secure.
That is all. Just wanted to toss that out there as you seem to care ... which is a terrific thing.
Good darn set-up.
Shug
Yes.... the longer toggle has been incorporated into the RL now. I cant quite remember how many of the shorter ones made it out. But Im replacing them as the issue is brought to my attention.
If you dont mind swapping the toggle yourself, I can send you a longer one. Or I can send the redesigned RL out and all you need to do is swap the prusiks over.
Folks... If you got one of my TRL and the toggle on the first end is shorter than the other 2, please send me a PM so I can promptly get this issue solved. I know there arent many because I caught this early on.
fisher_of_man
03-07-2010, 23:31
I will try this out when I get back from my business trip. Not so much for the weight savings, but more because I am not happy with the Figure 9s I'm currently using.
Schneiderlein, did you get a chance to try this out yet? I'm on the fence about going the single line method or the two line method and was hoping you'd have some great testing experience to add.
Schneiderlein, did you get a chance to try this out yet? I'm on the fence about going the single line method or the two line method and was hoping you'd have some great testing experience to add.
Try both!!!!! Best way to know........
Glad that I have. It is fun.
Schneiderlein
03-08-2010, 03:55
Schneiderlein, did you get a chance to try this out yet? I'm on the fence about going the single line method or the two line method and was hoping you'd have some great testing experience to add.
I had to go to England on short notice. I think opie tried it, though. He posted some pics of the setup in a different thread.
Schneiderlein, did you get a chance to try this out yet? I'm on the fence about going the single line method or the two line method and was hoping you'd have some great testing experience to add.
fisher.. watch this slideshow. I realize its pretty general, but In it I show the various mounting options for the TRL systems.
If you would like specific pictures, just let me know.
fisher_of_man
03-08-2010, 23:20
fisher.. watch this slideshow. I realize its pretty general, but In it I show the various mounting options for the TRL systems.
If you would like specific pictures, just let me know.
yeah...I saw the slideshow yesterday...great way to illustrate them by the way!
I'm really leaning to the two line setup (like Schneiderlein pm'd you about and I asked about here)...
my only question is in the list of benefits to the single tarp ridgeline, that sclittlefield posted, he listed "less stess on the tarp". my question is...if you are setting a taunt pitch to the tarp either way, what stress exist with the 2 line method that doesn't with the one line method? not sure I'm seeing that:confused:. obviously if your wieghing your ridegline down using it as a clothsline or catchall for your gear, I could see more stress with two lines but if that isn't the case and your tarp ridgeline is just used for the tarp...wouldn't the stress be the same on it regardless of whether it's one line or two?
yeah...I saw the slideshow yesterday...great way to illustrate them by the way!
I'm really leaning to the two line setup (like Schneiderlein pm'd you about and I asked about here)...
my only question is in the list of benefits to the single tarp ridgeline, that sclittlefield posted, he listed "less stess on the tarp". my question is...if you are setting a taunt pitch to the tarp either way, what stress exist with the 2 line method that doesn't with the one line method? not sure I'm seeing that:confused:. obviously if your wieghing your ridegline down using it as a clothsline or catchall for your gear, I could see more stress with two lines but if that isn't the case and your tarp ridgeline is just used for the tarp...wouldn't the stress be the same on it regardless of whether it's one line or two?
With the 1 line set-up, you dont need to pull your tarp all that taut on the line. Just snug it up and let the tie outs pull the tarp taut.
This lets the entire RL of the tarp rest on the line...assuming you are doing an over the RL set-up. And under set-up will work just like the 2 line set-up, placing all the forces on the tarp tie outs.
With the 1 line set-up, you dont need to pull your tarp all that taut on the line. Just snug it up and let the tie outs pull the tarp taut.
This lets the entire RL of the tarp rest on the line...assuming you are doing an over the RL set-up. And under set-up will work just like the 2 line set-up, placing all the forces on the tarp tie outs.
Opie did you reverse the statement for RL on this part?
Under lets the tarp rest and takes stress off as opposed to the over ridge line....
Just confused....
Tom
Opie did you reverse the statement for RL on this part?
Under lets the tarp rest and takes stress off as opposed to the over ridge line....
Just confused....
Tom
Possibly when I say over the RL, I mean the tarp is on top of the RL. When I say under, I mean the RL is on top of the tarp.
fisher_of_man
03-09-2010, 15:07
With the 1 line set-up, you dont need to pull your tarp all that taut on the line. Just snug it up and let the tie outs pull the tarp taut.
This lets the entire RL of the tarp rest on the line...assuming you are doing an over the RL set-up. And under set-up will work just like the 2 line set-up, placing all the forces on the tarp tie outs.
makes sense. thanks!
Schneiderlein
03-10-2010, 10:41
Schneiderlein, did you get a chance to try this out yet? I'm on the fence about going the single line method or the two line method and was hoping you'd have some great testing experience to add.
fisher_of_man, I got a chance to try out the method using two separate lines that are connected to the tarp ridge tie outs via Prusik's. I used 1.75mm Zing-It for the Prusik loops and 3mm Lash-It for the tie out, cause that's what I had on hand. I used a three-wrap Prusik and on the 3mm line, I could not get it to slip when pulling on it. The method is super convenient and quick to set up. I used sticks for the toggles. The only possible downside of the method is that you cannot pull the tarp as tight as you can with Figure-9s. If you want to be able to pull the tarp ridge line tight, this is definitely not the method for you. Once I staked the tarp out to the ground, the tarp had a very nice tight pitch, so I don't think the lack of tightness on the ridge line matters much.
fisher_of_man
03-10-2010, 23:28
fisher_of_man, I got a chance to try out the method using two separate lines that are connected to the tarp ridge tie outs via Prusik's. I used 1.75mm Zing-It for the Prusik loops and 3mm Lash-It for the tie out, cause that's what I had on hand. I used a three-wrap Prusik and on the 3mm line, I could not get it to slip when pulling on it. The method is super convenient and quick to set up. I used sticks for the toggles. The only possible downside of the method is that you cannot pull the tarp as tight as you can with Figure-9s. If you want to be able to pull the tarp ridge line tight, this is definitely not the method for you. Once I staked the tarp out to the ground, the tarp had a very nice tight pitch, so I don't think the lack of tightness on the ridge line matters much.
thanks for the info. I'm still trying to figure out which way to go. I like the idea of the 2line and having the prusiks larksheaded to my drings and just leaving the line attached to the tarp...ready for quick and easy setup. I can't imagine the single line method (still using the prusiks to attach to your ridgeline tieouts with toggles) being any tighter of a pull than the 2 line method you described. what's your take on it? either way seems like you'd get the same pull. now if you were using the two line method with figure 9s on each end...then I could see a difference.
...... I can't imagine the single line method (still using the prusiks to attach to your ridgeline tieouts with toggles) being any tighter of a pull than the 2 line method you described. what's your take on it? either way seems like you'd get the same pull. now if you were using the two line method with figure 9s on each end...then I could see a difference.
Yes and no - with the single tarp ridge line and Prussics to the tarp, you cannot pull the tarp ridge any tighter.
But you can pull the ridge line itself much tighter for 2 reasons:
the guy line can withstand higher loads than the tarp pull outs, and
if you use a truckers hitch arrangement with knots or a Figure 9, you have a mechanical advantage. Of course you can use a Truckers Hitch arrangement with the 2 line arrangement also, but then #1 comes into play.
What advantage does being able to pull the single ridge line tighter bestow? Well with the tarp attached to the single ridge line, when you pull the side tie outs taught, the ridge line keeps the tarp ridge from pulling down very much. The ridge line keeps things tensioned more.
With 2 lines and not being able to pull the tarp ridge as tight, the side tie outs can pull the tarp ridge down more. Depends on how much you tension the side tie outs.
fisher_of_man
03-11-2010, 21:05
Yes and no - with the single tarp ridge line and Prussics to the tarp, you cannot pull the tarp ridge any tighter.
But you can pull the ridge line itself much tighter for 2 reasons:
the guy line can withstand higher loads than the tarp pull outs, and
if you use a truckers hitch arrangement with knots or a Figure 9, you have a mechanical advantage. Of course you can use a Truckers Hitch arrangement with the 2 line arrangement also, but then #1 comes into play.
What advantage does being able to pull the single ridge line tighter bestow? Well with the tarp attached to the single ridge line, when you pull the side tie outs taught, the ridge line keeps the tarp ridge from pulling down very much. The ridge line keeps things tensioned more.
With 2 lines and not being able to pull the tarp ridge as tight, the side tie outs can pull the tarp ridge down more. Depends on how much you tension the side tie outs.
so I don't doubt at all that you can get the ridgeline (actual line) tighter with one line....but the tarp is still only hung by the prusik knots (on the line above the tarp method) meaning that it's still just as tight as the two line (unless you have more than just the ridgeline tieouts at each edge (like if there was a ridgeline tieout in the middle - which i haven't seen). the tarp is still just hanging at the two ends by prusik knots. now...if you use the line under the tarp method, I can't imagine the tarp being pulled tighter on the tieouts...but then you have the line under the tarp to help it keep from being pulled down. I could see the ridgeline having a much different effect here than with a two line or single (above)...but I'm still not completely sold on the fact that the tarp ridgeline is pulled any tighter...it just has something supporting the tarp ridgeline now.
is this thinking way off? the reason I ask this is because I'm not sure I want to use the line under the tarp with a single line method...and if that's the case, I'm not real sure that there is any advantage to the single (over the top of the tarp) layout vs. the two line layout.
if you run the line under your tarp (and just asking to maybe change my mind about this setup)...what keeps water from running down the line (under your tarp) and creating a drip..say right over the top of your hammock...chinese hammock water torture?:scared: and are there any concerns with your tarp "seeping" rainwater where the ridgeline guyline (on the single layout) comes into contact with your tarp (under the tarp)? I know this may be a really bad example...but I've been in a tent or two (during my uninformed era) when it rained and where things came into contact with the tent material during the night, the water seeped thru...probably not the same issue because of the silnylon...but thought I'd better ask.
Schneiderlein
03-11-2010, 22:49
thanks for the info. I'm still trying to figure out which way to go. I like the idea of the 2line and having the prusiks larksheaded to my drings and just leaving the line attached to the tarp...ready for quick and easy setup. I can't imagine the single line method (still using the prusiks to attach to your ridgeline tieouts with toggles) being any tighter of a pull than the 2 line method you described. what's your take on it? either way seems like you'd get the same pull. now if you were using the two line method with figure 9s on each end...then I could see a difference.
I am not sure if the tightness of the ridgeline really matters at all. I think it's a matter of personal preference.
If you do want your ridgeline tight, and you want to have two lines attached to the tarp, I have good news. I played some more with the two-line setup, and there are (at least) two very easy ways to get it tight.
The first setup I had was this: Each of the two ridgeline tie-outs was just a Prusik loop larksheaded to the D-ring on the tarp. The guyline goes around the tree and is secured with a toggle. To get the tarp ridgeline really tight, pass the free end of one of the guylines through the D-ring. When you pull on the free end, this gives you the same leverage as you have with a Figure-9. While pulling on the free end, you can slide the Prusik loop towards the tree. This makes for a pretty tight pitch, but there is some give when you let go of the free end.
If you want it even tighter, there is another method I have toyed with. This was inspired by TeeDee's (http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/showpost.php?p=215886&postcount=88) post in the thread opie started about eliminating the Figure-9s. This method is a bit complicated to describe and visualize, but actually quite simple to use. The trick is to use a single Prusik loop that makes two Prusik knots on the same line. To set this up, do the following:
1. Use a loop to make a Prusik knot on a short section of a drinking straw.
2. Now, make another Prusik knot on your guyline making sure that the knot on the straw stays in place.
3. Pass the end of your guyline through the D-ring and then through the drinking straw.
4. Pull out the drinking straw and set the knot.
The D-ring is now in between two Prusik knots on your guyline that are made using a single loop. Make the Prusik loop long enough so that the thicker buried part of the loop is in between the knots, otherwise the Prusiks won't hold. This setup gives you the same mechanical advantage of a Figure-9 and lets you pull the tarp really right. I have only briefly played with it before deciding to wait for better weather, but it worked really well. This method could also be used with a continuous ridgeline, similar to what TeeDee (http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/showpost.php?p=215886&postcount=88) originally suggested, but it would eliminate one toggle.
fisher_of_man
03-12-2010, 00:14
I am not sure if the tightness of the ridgeline really matters at all. I think it's a matter of personal preference.
If you do want your ridgeline tight, and you want to have two lines attached to the tarp, I have good news. I played some more with the two-line setup, and there are (at least) two very easy ways to get it tight.
The first setup I had was this: Each of the two ridgeline tie-outs was just a Prusik loop larksheaded to the D-ring on the tarp. The guyline goes around the tree and is secured with a toggle. To get the tarp ridgeline really tight, pass the free end of one of the guylines through the D-ring. When you pull on the free end, this gives you the same leverage as you have with a Figure-9. While pulling on the free end, you can slide the Prusik loop towards the tree. This makes for a pretty tight pitch, but there is some give when you let go of the free end.
If you want it even tighter, there is another method I have toyed with. This was inspired by TeeDee's (http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/showpost.php?p=215886&postcount=88) post in the thread opie started about eliminating the Figure-9s. This method is a bit complicated to describe and visualize, but actually quite simple to use. The trick is to use a single Prusik loop that makes two Prusik knots on the same line. To set this up, do the following:
1. Use a loop to make a Prusik knot on a short section of a drinking straw.
2. Now, make another Prusik knot on your guyline making sure that the knot on the straw stays in place.
3. Pass the end of your guyline through the D-ring and then through the drinking straw.
4. Pull out the drinking straw and set the knot.
The D-ring is now in between two Prusik knots on your guyline that are made using a single loop. Make the Prusik loop long enough so that the thicker buried part of the loop is in between the knots, otherwise the Prusiks won't hold. This setup gives you the same mechanical advantage of a Figure-9 and lets you pull the tarp really right. I have only briefly played with it before deciding to wait for better weather, but it worked really well. This method could also be used with a continuous ridgeline, similar to what TeeDee (http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/showpost.php?p=215886&postcount=88) originally suggested, but it would eliminate one toggle.
thanks...that is definately something to consider. I originally (and am still leaning that way) thought of your first example. however, the second one sounds interesting too.
I'm not saying that my ridgeline has to be guitar string tight but I'd prefer to have a good taunt pitch to the tarp. and I sure don't want the middle ridge of my tarp sagging into my hammock. I feel like the prusik not larksheaded to my d ring would accomplish that...I just can't decide whether to go the 2 line or 1 line route.
I hear the benefits of the one line route, but I'm not sure i'd use the line under the tarp to hang stuff on (if I did..it would certainly be the answer)...I don't really see any benefit to a single line over the tarp that you would have with the two line method other than having additional line you could cut out in the event you needed it and still have enough for the two line method.
decisions...decisions...:confused:
FIsher... you could always try the single line method and if you dont like it, cut it in half.
fisher_of_man
03-12-2010, 12:04
FIsher... you could always try the single line method and if you dont like it, cut it in half.
and we may have a winner with that answer! hadn't thought about that!
chiefams
03-12-2010, 15:35
I love the continuous tarp ridgeline method. I hope you don't mind opie I based my design from yours! I LOVE IT!
and we may have a winner with that answer! hadn't thought about that!
You can try it prior to cutting too.
If you use a toggle at either end for attachment, then you can tension your tarp in such a way that all the extra line is hanging under your tarp. This will simulate the 2 line method.
I love the continuous tarp ridgeline method. I hope you don't mind opie I based my design from yours! I LOVE IT!
Post up some pics!!!
chiefams
03-12-2010, 21:29
I've got to wait until my camera get's fixed... or I buy a new one... But as soon as I do they will be up!
billvann
03-14-2010, 22:02
Hey, Opie...
I finally got a chance to hang my new Winder Dream tarp using your ridgeline and tieouts. The first two trees I selected were huge oaks with a fairly large circumferences. They were not that far apart but the circumferences ate into the length of the ridgeline and I was unable to wrap around the second tree. So I went and found two other trees. So I pondered a bit wondering what I could do to hang in those two oaks. I wonder if a toggle extension would work. three foot length with a toggle on one end an eye on the other. The toggle end would hook to the eye of the ridgeline and eye on the other end to the toggle on the prussic.
Has anyone else run into this? Is there a better solution?
Schneiderlein
03-14-2010, 22:09
They were not that far apart but the circumferences ate into the length of the ridgeline and I was unable to wrap around the second tree.
Funny this should happen on Pi day (http://www.piday.org/)!
Your solution should work well. You can also skip the toggle and use a larkshead.
billvann
03-14-2010, 22:12
Funny this should happen on Pi day (http://www.piday.org/)!
Your solution should work well. You can also skip the toggle and use a larkshead.
I wish I had planned the pun, but perhaps it's funnier since I didn't. :laugh:
Hey, Opie...
I finally got a chance to hang my new Winder Dream tarp using your ridgeline and tieouts. The first two trees I selected were huge oaks with a fairly large circumferences. They were not that far apart but the circumferences ate into the length of the ridgeline and I was unable to wrap around the second tree. So I went and found two other trees. So I pondered a bit wondering what I could do to hang in those two oaks. I wonder if a toggle extension would work. three foot length with a toggle on one end an eye on the other. The toggle end would hook to the eye of the ridgeline and eye on the other end to the toggle on the prussic.
Has anyone else run into this? Is there a better solution?
Yes, I can see that working. Kinda like extensions for your hammock suspension..
Redwood Guy
03-22-2010, 03:47
That is one of the issues I think I am going to face here in the Redwoods. I have been wanting to get a continuous ridge line setup, but I just don't know if the lengths you've got will be long enough every single place I stop.
That is one of the issues I think I am going to face here in the Redwoods. I have been wanting to get a continuous ridge line setup, but I just don't know if the lengths you've got will be long enough every single place I stop.
I can make the RL any length you need. If you can figure out an average length.. say you need 50'... Then I can make it 50' long.
Redwood Guy
03-22-2010, 08:29
I can make the RL any length you need. If you can figure out an average length.. say you need 50'... Then I can make it 50' long.
giggle.
And, if I only needed it to be 22 feet the day after I needed it to be 48 feet, would that really screw me up :lol:
giggle.
And, if I only needed it to be 22 feet the day after I needed it to be 48 feet, would that really screw me up :lol:
I think this length difference is VERY doable...
A prussik in the loop/open end of the whoopie would allow the tarp attachment...the whoopie ridge line would reduce from 50 feet to...well.....very short length...
lots of line to deal with....but works
Do I understand this correctly?
If not please post the correction...
I'm always wrong...
Hahaha
Tom
giggle.
And, if I only needed it to be 22 feet the day after I needed it to be 48 feet, would that really screw me up :lol:
Well... You would have some adjustments to make... But its just a matter of sliding all the prusiks down the line.
I just bring a couple extra pieces of line with and use them for extensions to go around the trees. I tie a loop in the end and attach the ridgeline to the extension lines.
bearbait
04-20-2010, 21:36
Am I the only one having a little trouble getting enough tension on the ridgeline using the two toggle method?
With no weight on the line I'm able to get enough tension--not super tight, just tight enough.
With tarp & snakeskin on the line, I find it tough to tighten the toggle/prussic. It's almost do-able but still leaves more slack than I'd like and can be a bit rough on the fingers.
I'm inclined to order a figure 9. Just wondering if I'm doing something wrong with the toggle.
Bear.... It does sound like a figure 9 would be better suited for your application.
I was going to wait to announce this until I got them back in stock.... But I am going to switch back to the figure 9 instead of the 2 hole toggle. I can see the merit in having the mechanical advantage to get the RL tight.
Once I get them back in stock... If anyone that has the 2 hole toggle isnt happy with the performance, Ill gladly send out a figure 9 to replace it with.
bearbait
04-21-2010, 12:34
Thanks Opie. I'll send ya a PM.
Along with reverting back to the figure 9, Im going to be incorporating the Nite Ize Knot Bone into the other end. Replacing the toggle.
This would also allow one to create the "V" in their TRL that dejoha illustrated.
Pics will come this weekend.
Opie,
Just curious if there is an locked brummel eye on at least one end of the current configuration? I like to do a toggle on one end and the Figure 9 on the other. Let me know and I will order one up! You cost is about as cheap as me ordering 50 feet of Amsteel so it makes sense!
Cheers,
Opie,
Just curious if there is an locked brummel eye on at least one end of the current configuration? I like to do a toggle on one end and the Figure 9 on the other. Let me know and I will order one up! You cost is about as cheap as me ordering 50 feet of Amsteel so it makes sense!
Cheers,
The old style is that way... Fixed eye and toggle on one end and a figure 9 on a prusik loop on the other.
bmorebhoy
05-26-2010, 22:13
Is there any danger of wear on the line over time from the teeth of the Figure-9?
It's been known to happen with regular rope but maybe you're not using the Figure-9 in the same place of the line each time out.
Yes its possible. I havent noticed any were on mine and havent heard from any of my customers about wear. It could be that you arent using the exact same spot on the line each time. It could also be the nature of the line itself to withstand the abrasion better then nylon of polyester line.