View Full Version : Continuous Loop pictoral
...Actually used a tensile test gage to pull one apart. Got to the equivalent of 1980 lbs...
Interesting results. Thanks for posting.
FWIW...1980 lbs is 1.24x of the 1600 lbs avg breaking strength of amsteel blue. An Amsteel Blue CL spliced per Samson's instructions should be able to achieve 1.6-1.9x ABS depending on splice placement during testing.
Hammonkey
05-25-2015, 13:18
Yep...made it exactly the way they are made from Dutch. Works great for hammocks and holds well at my 225 lbs. Really the Taper is used to make it easier while burying it. I know if no taper is used it supposedly makes a weak point. I don't think hanging at 225lbs is going to matter. My ends bury at about 5 inches.Actually used a tensile test gage to pull one apart. Got to the equivalent of 1980 lbs. Plenty to hold us in a hammock.
I can also argue that when you DIY you take a risk. Period. The pictorial is great so are all the vids.
Do you think it's possible to go smaller with those? It doesn't appear than your burries go the full length of the loop and meet eachother in the middle. I am looking at the smallest loop I can make that will safely hold my 240lb butt off the ground
I plan on putting the entire loop through the end channel of my hammock and and then larks heading the whoopie to the two ends of the loop sticking out similar to this setup so the shorter the loop the less length im adding to my 11' hammock.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t70/CamoDeafie/misc/Long%20Ogee%20Tent%20Pole%20Mod%205_zps3czpedjx.jp g~original
You might consider a short dog bone instead.
CamoDeafie82
05-25-2015, 23:38
Do you think it's possible to go smaller with those? It doesn't appear than your burries go the full length of the loop and meet eachother in the middle. I am looking at the smallest loop I can make that will safely hold my 240lb butt off the ground
I plan on putting the entire loop through the end channel of my hammock and and then larks heading the whoopie to the two ends of the loop sticking out similar to this setup so the shorter the loop the less length im adding to my 11' hammock.
good question, though that's my 104" long hammock set up there... Normal whipping/gathered ends made it way too short for me, hence the webbing loop on the ends in this set up. :)
You might consider a short dog bone instead.
I agree with this guy though, for the 11 ft hammock, a dogbone should be OK...
Hammonkey
05-26-2015, 00:21
I cant imagine you can get a dogbone shorter than a continuous loop. Seems to me you have 1/2 the amount of room to burry so I worry about strength.
stickbow
08-05-2015, 14:39
Late to the party, but I make my own splicing needles from aluminum (sometimes brass) tubing. I can't make myself pay >$100 for the spectra splicing sets, even though I use them for fishing as well as backpacking and my son's "real" rope work. You can pick up random sized aluminum/brass tubing packs from places like Hobby Lobby, Michaels, and other art type shops. I believe they are usually in the model building section.
I fill the end with solder, though you could use pretty much anything (JB weld), and then sand/file it down smooth and slightly pointed.
Not sure you could find 22 ga though...
Is it possible to replace the photos in the OP (original post)?
PhotoBucket!!
Ken in NC
I do have the pictures downloaded somewhere.....
Is it possible to replace the photos in the OP (original post)?
PhotoBucket!!
Ken in NC
I do have the pictures downloaded somewhere.....
PB Fix thread, started today.
Donating members only.
https://www.hammockforums.net/forum/showthread.php/145039-Photobucket-fix
PB Fix thread, started today.
Donating members only.
https://www.hammockforums.net/forum/showthread.php/145039-Photobucket-fix
it was me who posted the Photobucket fix. The mods then moved my thread to the donating members only area. If any non-donating members want the link to the fix, private message me.
Bolting Carcass
08-26-2018, 08:31
Quick question.
I have a pair of 10' whoopie slings that I no longer use. Well, they're still on my hammock, but I don't need all that extra length. Can I use this same dyneema cord to make some CLs? I'm doing some diy setups with my boys at church and want them to pretty much make every part of their setups. (Tablecloth hammocks, CLs, diy tarp outs, etc) I figure that if I need 28" for an 8" CL, I could get a couple pairs out of the extra length of the whoopie. Thoughts?https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180826/f95865e58044c2b20cafe3759179cf68.jpg
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Yes, 28" inches will easily give you an 8" loop of 7/64" Amsteel. Minimum bury should be 5.75".
By the way, classic pictures of continuous loops show both buries that long, but the truth is that only one needs to be minimum length. The other end can just be tucked in. By doing this, loops can be made smaller than using a douldle bury. Just imagine the tenths of grams that could be saved! LOL [emoji6]
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I agree that one bury can be quite short but be sure to taper both of them. I haven't paged back on this thread to look if this has been mentioned: don't bother with the so-called locked Brummel. The point is that it can't be "locked" as can be done with a spliced loop. With a CL it isn't locked at all! You can prove this by tugging on the CL before doing the buries. Truth be told, doing those two pass-throughs (that look a lot like a locked Brummel) actually result in a slightly weaker CL.
Bolting Carcass
08-26-2018, 10:04
I agree that one bury can be quite short but be sure to taper both of them. I haven't paged back on this thread to look if this has been mentioned: don't bother with the so-called locked Brummel. The point is that it can't be "locked" as can be done with a spliced loop. With a CL it isn't locked at all! You can prove this by tugging on the CL before doing the buries. Truth be told, doing those two pass-throughs (that look a lot like a locked Brummel) actually result in a slightly weaker CL.This is the tutorial I watched. Is he locking it like you mentioned? Complete Newb on this. Any other thoughts other than shortening a bury?
https://youtu.be/xcoKeXAwBZY
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Actually, I never use locked brummels on any splices. I loosely hand stitch a few stitches through the bury. Make them loose so that the tread doesn't break when the splice tightens up under load.
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This is the tutorial I watched. Is he locking it like you mentioned? Complete Newb on this. Any other thoughts other than shortening a bury?
https://youtu.be/xcoKeXAwBZY
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Yes, That "lock" isn't a lock at all. Skip it. It actually weakens the CL although only a little. Put the buries as close to one another as you can. As MAD777 says, put a loose stitch or two where the buries meet and bury the end of the thread used for stitching. If you want to be a "purist", you could stitch with Spectra fishing line! Spectra and Dyneema are the two common brand names for the fibers made from UHMWPE.
Aside from making one bury short, the only way to make the CL a bit smaller would be to overlap the tapered ends of the buries, but only slightly.
Actually, I never use locked brummels on any splices. I loosely hand stitch a few stitches through the bury. Make them loose so that the tread doesn't break when the splice tightens up under load.
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I think doing the locked brummel on an eye splice is a neat and simple way to guarantee that the splice won't walk. As I wrote above, the strength that is sacrificed just isn't enough to worry about (unless you're hanging on Dynaglide CLs!)
Ha! Funny you said that. I am hanging on all Dynaglide for four years. At just shy of 200 pounds, I'm completely confident in it. YMMV
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Bolting Carcass
08-29-2018, 19:50
Thanks! I just received my package of 75 ft of 7/64 a amsteel to make a bunch of CLs and hopefully some other things for my boys hammocks. Tablecloths will be here Friday. I'm stoked. We'll be making 10 hammocks with CLs and hopefully some SRLs.
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Ha! Funny you said that. I am hanging on all Dynaglide for four years. At just shy of 200 pounds, I'm completely confident in it. YMMV
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I'd be less confident if you HAD put pass-throughs on those Dynaglide CLs... :scared:
Rabbit44
09-04-2018, 18:21
I used steel fishing leader line, it is strong and can be worked pretty hard to do your zing it or lash it, the brand name was "Mustard",bought at Walmart,ref no. SSW5,30 foot length,44lb test,4-5 dollars.