View Full Version : Redesigned TRL
OK... My recent trip brought about some new thoughts and some old ones that simply worked.
First... I am going back to the Figure 9 for the second anchor point. Its simple and just about fail proof. I am going to make this prusik a 4 wrap prusik.
Second... No more toggles. Not on the ends or for the tarp. Youll see why in the slideshow. The S biner option will remain.
Third... The first end will now have a Nite Ize Knot Bone as the attachment. This will be built into a fixed eye.
Enjoy. I hope to get this up on the site tonight.
http://s411.photobucket.com/albums/pp200/opie0074/Tarp%20Ridgeline%20Options/New%20TRL/?albumview=slideshow
The 2 line version will be exactly the same other than having Knot Bones on each end of each line and no Figure 9. This method will also allow you to create the "V" dejoha illustrated.
SmokeBait
04-24-2010, 15:47
Agreed, on the Figure 9. They are simple and effective. Have no experience with the Knot Bone but it looks simple enough too. But I kinda liked the toggles :(
SmokeBait
oldgringo
04-24-2010, 15:49
Agreed, on the Figure 9. They are simple and effective. Have no experience with the Knot Bone but it looks simple enough too. But I kinda liked the toggles :(
SmokeBait
Agreed, but the toggles were handmade, one at a time, so this makes sense.
Agreed, on the Figure 9. They are simple and effective. Have no experience with the Knot Bone but it looks simple enough too. But I kinda liked the toggles :(
SmokeBait
I like the toggles too. Switching to the Knot Bone also comes at a higher cost to me. I intend to not raise the price of the TRL and 1 Knot Bone costs more than 2 toggles.
However... As I was setting up my tarp a couple weekends ago, fighting the wind there was an instance where I needed to unhook the toggle/loop end. With the wind gusting to 40, and the TRL loose, I still couldnt get the loop over the toggle to get it undone. With this... In order to undo it, all you need to do is unwrap it.
I suppose I can keep the toggles for custom orders....
Weight on a 1 line is 1.1 ounces and 1.3 ounces with S biners.
Ill get a 2 line weight up when I get one made.
HappyCamper
04-25-2010, 16:18
I tried toggles on my ridgeline but got rid of them. I found them fussy like Opie said And they seemed to tangle on me.
ikemouser
04-25-2010, 21:47
The pic where you showed toggleing the dring through the tarp loop is iffy. The tarp will fall out, U have to use a stick to toggle it, or did u leave the stick out?
The pic where you showed toggleing the dring through the tarp loop is iffy. The tarp will fall out, U have to use a stick to toggle it, or did u leave the stick out?
The tarp can fall out if you use a toggle, too. I was able to loosen it up to get repositioned and for pictures and it didnt fall out. It would more than likely be more secure if the webbing at the D ring wasnt as wide...
However.... I think with a toggle at the RL point, the price paid is the chance it can fall out.
LostCause
04-26-2010, 01:37
I used a nacrabiner/shackle to attach the tarp to the ridgeline. No toggle needed and a very secure way of attaching it to the tarp.
I didn't use D rings when I made my tarp. I could always use a trail stick as a toggle in the grossgrain loops, but if I can't find suitable sticks I can use the nacrabiner shackle prusik on my tarp ridgeline.
http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/picture.php?albumid=345&pictureid=2858
http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/picture.php?albumid=345&pictureid=2857
I was waiting to post on this idea until I had tried out a grossgrain pull tab instead of the bead used to keep the loop from closing and also to pull the loop out. I'll try to test it out this week.
lonetracker
04-26-2010, 02:59
dang lost cause beet me.i just came on here to post allmost exactly the same thing nacra prussics,to attach tarp to ridge with no toggle or s biner.
closed
http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/picture.php?albumid=234&pictureid=3022
open
http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/picture.php?albumid=234&pictureid=3023
used 30 in of 1.75 zing it.tied a fixed loop on one end,and a monkeys fist on the other.whipped it with a nail knot the tag ends of which i made into a loop(grey part)for a lock
wrapped on line as a regular prusic.
how are yours tied lost cause?
bill
LostCause
04-26-2010, 03:46
I used a spliced loop and for the knot I used a zeppelin bend. I used about 20" of cordage. 2" extra just in case....
1" backsplice on both ends (2")
1/2" tails on the knot (1")
1 1/2" for the knot on each end (3")
3" fixed length between the loop splice and the knot
1" loop
2" length loop to the prusik
5" for the prusik
1" length from the prusik to the knot
Grand total of 18"
Works pretty well in my limited experience.
LC and Lone... Thanks for the pics.
I do intend to offer this as an option, soon. It was on my mind as I was going through the redesign. I think for something like the TRL.... No complicated stopper is needed.... there isnt that much tension on the TRL.
GvilleDave
05-07-2010, 16:40
Thanks to Opie for the great ideas! I like the idea of using the KnotBone! It is small, easy to use and holds well. I modified the way to attached the loop of the ridgeline on mine so that most of the ridgeline loop is hidden inside the KnotBone.
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q277/gvilledave/DSCN0775.jpg
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q277/gvilledave/DSCN0776.jpg
Callahan
02-02-2011, 22:15
Just wondering, how do you attach the zing-it to the knotbone? Do you use a fixed eye splice and sew it, or do you attach it with a locked brummel? I would like to put together a ridgeline for my superfly similar to Opie's design with the knotbone and figure 9, as well as some 8 ft lengths with fixed loops for girth hitching on the tarp tie outs. I have searched the forum, and watched Opies great locked brummel post for amsteel, but can't find anywhere that explains what measurements I would need for completing the locked brummel using zing-it.
Thanks!
Callahan
SmokeBait
02-02-2011, 23:32
Callahan, it's a fixed eye with a locked brummel. Line runs lengthwise down the center hole of the Knotbone. First mark is at 2" from the end. 2nd mark where the threader goes through is at 6" from the end. Loop is pulled tight against the Knotbone, locked and buried.
Callahan
02-02-2011, 23:58
Callahan, it's a fixed eye with a locked brummel. Line runs lengthwise down the center hole of the Knotbone. First mark is at 2" from the end. 2nd mark where the threader goes through is at 6" from the end. Loop is pulled tight against the Knotbone, locked and buried.
Perfect! Thanks for the help Smokebait :D
Cheers
Callahan
02-05-2011, 17:32
Thanks to Opie, SmokeBait and all for all the help and great tuturorials! Built my continuous ridgeline last night and completed my first splices...Can't wait to try this on my Superfly! :D
Cheers
Callahan looks good! You know you don't need the S biners. You could girth hitch your prussic to your tarp and have fewer pieces that can come undone (which means get lost to me). Nice splices.
SmokeBait
02-05-2011, 20:10
Looks good Callahan. That should serve you well.
Callahan
02-05-2011, 20:45
Callahan looks good! You know you don't need the S biners. You could girth hitch your prussic to your tarp and have fewer pieces that can come undone (which means get lost to me). Nice splices.
Ah, that's a great idea Bat... I have snakeskins and will always be keeping the tarp and ridgeline together.
Looks good Callahan. That should serve you well.
Thanks Smokebait! Appreciate how you guys share your ideas with us noobs! :D