View Full Version : Eureka Chrysalis Deconstructed.
Companion thread to previous Chrysalis thread (http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/showthread.php?t=5422).
Chrysalis' designer's site (http://helsdonoutdoors.com/default.aspx).
Before we go anywhere, I will point out that when I purchased the Eureka Chrysalis this week (on sale though Cabelas $119+shipping), I knew that I would not be using it as packaged. For one, I do not see the utility of the tent-like top and would much rather have a tarp under which I could sit, see the world and have more rain coverage of my hanging area. Secondly, the beast comes ready to set up with a total weight of 93.3oz! :scared: And third, I suck at sewing. Plain and simple. So where I could have struggled through making a bridge hammock, or bought a JRB BMBH, modification of this little known/used beastie just seemed like fun and the easier way out.
The specs:
Total weight out of the box: 93.3oz
Stuff sack: 1.5oz
Tent/tarp top: 19.4oz
Hammock with strap suspension and attached bars: 72.4oz
Deconstructing:
Carabiners: heavy steel 4.3oz each
Head end spreader: steel 3/4" diameter, 39" in 2 sections, 10.9oz total
Foot end spreader: steel 3/4" diameter, 35" in 2 sections, 10.5oz total
Hammock body (without suspension): 22.1oz
Suspension (minus carabiners): 20.3oz this also includes rain caps, and attached stock bar covers.
Dimensions:
Width at head spreader bar: 43" (see note below in post#15)
Width at foot spreader bar: 46"
Width at narrowest: 28"
Head suspension triangle length: 38"
Foot suspension triangle side length: 36"
Distance between spreader bars: ~68"
Ridge line: 121"
Length of body, top edge when folded in half: 121"
Length of body, bottom edge when folded in half: 96"
Capacity (per manufacturer): 225#
Reconstructed:
Removed everything from hammock body. Cut new Quest 5/8" aluminum spreader bars to length (5.6oz and 4.8oz respectively). Attached 7/16" whoopies and Lash-it ridgeline. Added 4' tree huggers, a pair of Dutch clips, and two aluminum toggles.
New reconstructed weight: 38.2oz. Not great in comparison to some other rigs, but at almost 1/2 the original weight, it's not too bad.
"So how's the comfort," you ask? Well, in my short career of hammocking I have owned (in order) the Clark NA, Hennessy Expedition, ENO DN, WBBB 1.7dl, TTTM King, and a diy GE made in the fashion of the WB traveller. Of these, I still have the DIY and the others have been used to fuel the next purchase. Of these purchased hammocks, I liked the WBBB best, followed by the ENO. And although I slept OK in both the WBBB and ENO, I slept just as well in the DIY, thus that's the one I kept. Overall, I haven't found THE Hammock for me. Guess I'm picky. :rolleyes: I have laid in the JRB BMBH once, for about 5 minutes so my bridge experience is essentially nonexistent.
In the short bit that I have been hanging today, I would say that the Chrysalis is the most comfortable I have laid in. Definitely better than my DIY GE and the ENO. Probably better (for me) than the WBBB (though I really did like that one). I like the flat lay. Perhaps because of the wider spreader at the head I don't feel any squeeze. It does not feel tippy. There is just enough curve toward the head that I think I'd be OK without a pillow, though a small one might make it nicer. The narrower cut in the center affords a good view without needing to sit up.
I'll have to come back to this and answer the question once I have had some more time in the Chrysalis. But so far, once the weight was shed, I'm pretty happy with it. Not using the tent-like cover, you lose any bug protection. But I'll cross that bridge when I get to it.
Chrysalis photo album (http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/album.php?albumid=508). Loaded these backwards, so start at the end for stock setup.
gargoyle
07-19-2010, 17:30
Nice work BER, and speedy too. Glad to hear it comfortable. Are the main body panels of the hammock seamed together? Each panel a little different? Sorta cat cut on a panelized version?
Nice job on cutting the weight!
I may reconsider my decision to leave mine alone. :rolleyes:
Might just try Arrowhead Equipment's UL cinch buckles w/chain links and a different ridgeline. Dutch clips would definitely beat the steel carabiners!
Are your spreader bars one piece?
Where did you get the aluminum spreader bars?
EastTexasHanger
07-19-2010, 18:34
That's a great reconstruction/ remodel job. thumbs up . Those biners look like the ones on my boat winch, need a winch to pick them up.. GREAT JOB!
Nice work BER, and speedy too. Glad to hear it comfortable. Are the main body panels of the hammock seamed together? Each panel a little different? Sorta cat cut on a panelized version?
Yes, seamed together but very flat seam on the upper surface. I lack the knowledge to name the type of seam. (Edit: French seam...maybe) Taped on the bottom surface. I believe the body has a water repellent coating on the bottom as well. Definitely not sil. Each panel is cut shorter as you approach the middle to form the cat cut.
Are your spreader bars one piece?
Where did you get the aluminum spreader bars?
The aluminum spreaders bars were from Quest Outfitters (http://www.questoutfitters.com/tent_poles.htm#TENT%20POLES). Head spreader is three lengths 13" each, foot spreader is two lengths 17.5" each.
Finally I get to see it topless. Very bridge like. Just make the suspension triangle incased with fabric. Kind of hard to see the market they were going after.
gargoyle
07-19-2010, 20:00
I like it. I'll try to diy the shape and the big storage areas. Just make it to hold me!! lol
I like it. I'll try to diy the shape and the big storage areas. Just make it to hold me!! lol
I'll send you a set of 4.3oz carabiners if you like Gargoyle. They'll hold ya! :D
slowhike
07-19-2010, 23:41
Interesting BER. Thanks for showing the hammock & your improvements.
I knew it was over built, like a lot of commercial stuff, & could be made lighter. And if a person made their own, it could no doubt be made lighter yet.
And I was like you in that I knew the small tarp top would have to go (for me anyway).
But I find the design an interesting twist on the other bridge hammocks we see here. It would be interesting to hear comparisons, differences, pros & cons, between this & other bridge hammock variations (I'm guessing that bridge hammock makers would call this a bridge as well?).
I really do like the idea of built in storage, but I think I might do something a little different though.
I noticed you mentioned "the transverse strips of fabric rather than one long lengthwise piece". How many seams does the hammock body have?
BER, you know you really need to bring that hammock to Linville Gorge in Oct:)
Interesting BER. Thanks for showing the hammock & your improvements.
I knew it was over built, like a lot of commercial stuff, & could be made lighter. And if a person made their own, it could no doubt be made lighter yet.
And I was like you in that I knew the small tarp top would have to go (for me anyway).
But I find the design an interesting twist on the other bridge hammocks we see here. It would be interesting to hear comparisons, differences, pros & cons, between this & other bridge hammock variations (I'm guessing that bridge hammock makers would call this a bridge as well?).
I really do like the idea of built in storage, but I think I might do something a little different though.
I noticed you mentioned "the transverse strips of fabric rather than one long lengthwise piece". How many seams does the hammock body have?
BER, you know you really need to bring that hammock to Linville Gorge in Oct:)
SH- there are 9 transverse panels plus the 4 polyhedral panels that make up the head and foot storage areas. The transverse panels alternate 7" (5) and 10" (4). The spreader bars are positioned at the midpoint of the first and seventh panel.
Yup, I agree, replicating the design as a DIY would certainly drop weight. There are 8 fairly large patches of velcro on the body, the orange binding on the edges is pretty heavy duty, and the fabric itself is pretty heavy.
If anyone wants to loan me some other bridges I'd be happy to compare them. :D But I think my hammock buying needs to settle down for a while.
It is unlikely that I will make it to Linville in October as I have promised to take my wife to Napa for her birthday that month. But I would be happy to loan it to you in October to try out.
And along that line, if anybody wants some super heavy duty carabiners, some bright orange straps, or the Chrysalis tent cover, I'll send them to you for the price of shipping.
Cool to see ..........
The hammock and the model are very stylish....
She looks comfy!!!!
Very interesting!
Shug
GvilleDave
07-20-2010, 10:13
Nice job! I was always curious about what the insides of the chrysalis looked like. I like the storage areas at each end as well. Thanks for sharing and keep us posted how it does long term. I have one of Eureka's older family sized car camping tents (Equinox) and it is certainly well built.
gargoyle
07-20-2010, 10:14
pm sent on the cover
Decided to put my new Chrysalis on a diet with the few items I had on hand.
Starting weight for mine (in stuff sack) 92oz. (5lb-12oz)
Replaced the suspension straps/hardware (steel cam buckles & carabiners) with Arrowhead Equipment's UL cinch buckles on chain links & pair of 13' polyester webbing suspension lines with Dutch clips.
I left all else "standard production" for now, even the factory web ridge line.
Weight reduction = 17oz for a new weigh-in of 75oz (4lb-11oz)
Weighed my current favorite combination (DD Frontline w/10x10 generic nylon tarp) and got a weight of 65oz (4lb-1oz).
I'm sure if I go further with weight reducing mods (like aluminum spreader bars and lightweight ridgeline) I can get it very close to the DD + tarp weight!
Still need to spend a night or two in it, but I have a feeling I may be selling some gathered end hammocks soon. :D
If I decide to make this my #1 hammock I will probably reduce the weight further by changing the spreader bars and ridgeline.
I'm hoping the fact this hammock is basically a "hanging tent" (which is fully enclosed and relatively small space inside) will make it suitable for comfortable 3-season hanging with the camping accessories I already own. (like a good full-sized self-inflating pad or CCF pad for bottom insulation, and a sleeping bag)
After taking a few more measurements inside, I noted that the width at the spreader bars is actually different (previously both listed as 43"--now corrected in original post). No instructions were provided in the box or stuff sack. Thinking that both were cut the same width, I arbitrarily chose an end with the sewn in tag (citing wight capacity and such) as the head and put the longer bar in there. As it turns out, the hammock is wider at the opposite end.
So after switching the longer spreader to the wider end, I found that my "pillow" (ie the upsweep of the bottom curvature) was lessened and more flat, but that there was a slight ridge across my upper calves (where it had been nice and flat previously). This was not uncomfortable, but over all less comfortable than with the shorter spreader at the wider end. An thus I have switched back.
Therefore if you wonder in why, in the dimensions I listed above, the head end is more narrow than the foot, well, here's the reason.
And now some IX has been ordered (thank you Stormcrow) and some other sundries from Quest. Along with some previously ordered 1.1 RS from BWDD (thank you again Scott), I will try to make an UQ. As mentioned above, sewing is not my forte (unless it involves body parts), so it might not be pretty. This will be a test. (to self: "do not be afraid of the thread injector.")
One other thing, surely not a surprise to those with more bridge hammock experience, but for other bridge newbies like myself: A WB bug net will most definitely NOT fit around this hammock.
BER,
I did measure the spreader bars in mine this morning and the spreader bar at the head (end with tag & vents in canopy) IS THE LONGER BAR!
I have not removed the spreader bars, so I'm sure this is the way it came from the factory!
I didn't measure the width without bars, but I'm guessing the shorter bar on the wider end is to give more (side to side) sag in the foot area for comfort????
BER,
I did measure the spreader bars in mine this morning and the spreader bar at the head (end with tag & vents in canopy) IS THE LONGER BAR!
I have not removed the spreader bars, so I'm sure this is the way it came from the factory!
I didn't measure the width without bars, but I'm guessing the shorter bar on the wider end is to give more (side to side) sag in the foot area for comfort????
Well there you go. Guess I should not have removed the tent cover so quickly yesterday. Can you collapse your spreader bars, fold the hammock in half lengthwise and measure from the top of the orange edging to the bottom edge at the longer bar just to double check for me and make sure my head is on straight? Thanks.
skoalbandit30
07-20-2010, 16:16
always wondered what these looked like inside
Well there you go. Guess I should not have removed the tent cover so quickly yesterday. Can you collapse your spreader bars, fold the hammock in half lengthwise and measure from the top of the orange edging to the bottom edge at the longer bar just to double check for me and make sure my head is on straight? Thanks.
I think this should answer the question. -
The hammock width (orange web to orange web) at the head is 43".
The spreader bar (assembled) at the head is 39".
The hammock width (orange web to orange web) at the foot is 46".
The spreader bar (assembled) at the foot is 35".
Thanks for confirming that Wabi. Interesting. Sort of the opposite of some other bridge designs I've read about that are usually narrower at the foot.
I really like the storage in head and foot.
Hmmmm
Does this idea trump a gear hammock?
It adds length so the trees need to be further apart. Lay looks mighty nice....
Still have the carabs?
Pm to ya
Tom
I ordered a set of the 5/8" aluminum poles for spreader bars from the company - Quest outfitters (http://www.questoutfitters.com/index.html) - in the link BER provided.
I would rather be able to store the spreader bars without rolling them inside the folded hammock, as the little fabric "socks" that come with the hammock for covering the ends of the poles keep slipping off as the hammock is rolled. I figure sooner or later the pole will puncture the fabric. :scared:
I ordered them yesterday and got an email they were to be shipped today - and that my credit card was charged $1.70 LESS than the invoice!
The shipping charge had been reduced to actual postage cost!!!!!!!
That's rare service to encounter in today's business world! I will keep that company's url in my bookmarks and highly recommend them to anyone who might need their products!
jeffjenn
07-21-2010, 13:14
I really like the storage in head and foot.
It adds length so the trees need to be further apart.
Tom
Unless I'm looking at it wrong, the storage ends shouldn't add any distance between trees. You can't use trees any closer than the apex of the webbing anyhow. I think??:confused:
I ordered them yesterday and got an email they were to be shipped today - and that my credit card was charged $1.70 LESS than the invoice!
The shipping charge had been reduced to actual postage cost!!!!!!!
That's rare service to encounter in today's business world! I will keep that company's url in my bookmarks and highly recommend them to anyone who might need their products!
I have ordered from them a couple times and each time they did the same. Needless to say I will continue ordering from them. That';s some good folks!
kycamper
07-21-2010, 18:39
So here is my question. . .putting aside the weight. . .is the Chryslais more comfortable for a 50+ camper? I do canoe camping and weight is not as big a deal. currently my tent weighs more then 5 lbs.
Also, how does the lifetime warranty compare to that offered by other hammock manufacturers? It strikes me that Eureka has been around for years and probably will be around for many more. . .many of the hammock manufacturers are new guys on the block.
So here is my question. . .putting aside the weight. . .is the Chryslais more comfortable for a 50+ camper? I do canoe camping and weight is not as big a deal. currently my tent weighs more then 5 lbs.
Also, how does the lifetime warranty compare to that offered by other hammock manufacturers? It strikes me that Eureka has been around for years and probably will be around for many more. . .many of the hammock manufacturers are new guys on the block.
KYC-
Sorry for the lack of timely response to your question. I am not sure I am yet qualified to recommend the Chrysalis based on comfort. In the two days now that I have spent time in the hammock (~2 hours) I have found it VERY comfortable during that time. But, I have not yet had a chance to sleep in it. I will be happy to comment more once I get to use it more. But like all hammocks, I think the only person that can answer whether YOU will be comfortable in a particular hammock is you. We all hang a little different.
In so far as the warranty...I think I have likely voided mine by taking their hammock apart. I have not had Eureka products before, so cannot speak to their warranty specifics. While I have not had any problems from hammocks from the "new guys", my impression is that the cottage manufacturers represented on HF bend over backwards to fix problems. Hopefully someone else can chime in.
BER... Do you think the hammock is cunstructed well enough to support 275#?
Thats whats holding me back from ordering one.
I think it is way overbuilt. The fabric is at least equivalent to 1.9oz nylon and the suspension as built is up to the task as well. I am wondering whether the suspension is nylon webbing as I had to hang it high initially to stay off the ground. Much less of a problem now that I switched out the suspension to whoopies.
I think the 225 is very conservative, but YMMV.
Opie,
I think the "weak link" in the hammock suspension is probably the cam buckle.
I'd say if you tied a backup knot (slippery half hitch) the hammock would probably hold more weight.
I didn't like the cam buckle because of it's physical weight and the fact it could cause the webbing to wear quickly, so I changed the suspension on mine.
The hammock itself seems to be very well constructed.
I only weigh 175# and didn't seem to be putting a strain on anything when I got in mine, even with the cam buckles & webbing still on it.
Boris Losdindawoods
07-23-2010, 07:23
Heh. It's just a matter of time... Will it be me? Will it be Opie? Who's going to be the first to put it to the CHUNKY test?
I'm hoping if I stall just a little bit more....
Boris
Festus Hagen
07-23-2010, 08:16
I've noticed these in the Cabelas catalogs... my thought was that it could make an excellent winter camping hammock? With that tent-type enclosure vs. a tarp, I think you'd have a nice micro-climate where you'd pick up several degrees in air temperature.
On the other hand, it sort of reminds me of my old bivy tent. I used to get lots of condensation on the bugnet of that tent, which would thaw at times and drip on my face (usually hit me right in the ear-hole, sleep through that!) So I dunno for sure.
I've noticed these in the Cabelas catalogs... my thought was that it could make an excellent winter camping hammock? With that tent-type enclosure vs. a tarp, I think you'd have a nice micro-climate where you'd pick up several degrees in air temperature.
On the other hand, it sort of reminds me of my old bivy tent. I used to get lots of condensation on the bugnet of that tent, which would thaw at times and drip on my face (usually hit me right in the ear-hole, sleep through that!) So I dunno for sure.
Although I put aside the tent-top for the reasons I listed in the original post, it would probably OK in the winter. There are mesh vents at both ends of the hammock itself (you can see them in several of the pictures I linked) that are protected under the top. Also where the top comes down to the sides of the hammock, there is a strip of netting between the bottom edge of the top and where it meets the side cut of the hammock. Finally there are two vents in the sides of the top near the head position that are held open by stiff curved pieces of plastic. There are a few pictures of using the tent in snow on the linked site from the designer.
I wonder though whether you'd get snow into your hammock getting in/out given the lack of larger tarp coverage. May not be too much of a problem though. I will have to leave further speculation on this to others as I sent the top off to Gargoyle to play with.
BER,
I'm going to use the top on mine, but I'd like to replace the webbing they use for a ridge line w/cord.
Do you think paracord would stretch too much?
I don't think I would use paracord if you want it to be structural, but just to hold the tent top I think it would be fine. One way to find out though.
Remembered I had some 7/64 amsteel, so it has an amsteel ridgeline now. :D
Now the only thing left to modify is the spreader bars, and they should be here soon.
That should get it down very close to 4# total for the complete hammock w/rainfly. Essentially the same weight I was previously packing with the DD Frontline & tarp.
Hopefully I'll get to test it tomorrow night if the weather forecast is correct.
Finished the mods today! :D
Got the new aluminum poles for spreader bars, and got them cut to fit the hammock.
The modified hammock still has the top (tarp) installed.
(BTW - The top does extend past the edges of the hammock, so you can be COMPLETELY ENCLOSED! The zippered mesh for insect protection has a "storm flap" that can be closed or be held open by toggles for ventilation. My guess is that with a good pad it would be comfortable for 3-season use, and with an underquilt it could easily be a winter hammock.)
The finished weight was 64oz. (4 lb) which was my target weight. Have rain protection, bug protection, and (hopefully) comfort all in one package that sets up and stores easily! Stored in stuff sack it measures about 6" diameter x 19" long. It would easily stuff smaller, but the longest section of spreader bar is 19", so I just rolled it and used the furnished sack.
Now if mother nature cooperates I'll test it this weekend.
(watching the forecast carefully, one source says cloudy, another says thunderstorms. :confused:)
Rushthezeppelin
07-25-2010, 23:11
I can't wait till someone does a full UL knockoff version of this tent top and all, I bet it would be pretty light and as others have said make a great winter hammock with basically a built in sock.
can someone pm me with item #'s or exactly what you ordered for spreader bars and ends to fit in the holes? I tested the hammock this summer and yes it is a bit heavy to backpack with. I made the mistake of using the top spreader bar to adjust my body after getting in my sleeping bag and..... snap! In hindsight I should not have put any force on the middle of the bar where it is most vournerable. Will the alum. hold up as a spreader? With disc issues in the lower back, a hammock has become almost a necessity. I started with an eno off the shelf and moved to the chrysalis. I would really like to modify for weight so I am also curious on the rain fly material everyone uses..... and if it can be aquired from the same place as the spreader bars.
Alot of questions for 1st post but it seems like this is the type of forum that everyone helps each other out. Thanks in advance.
Bill
can someone pm me with item #'s or exactly what you ordered for spreader bars and ends to fit in the holes? I tested the hammock this summer and yes it is a bit heavy to backpack with. I made the mistake of using the top spreader bar to adjust my body after getting in my sleeping bag and..... snap! In hindsight I should not have put any force on the middle of the bar where it is most vournerable. Will the alum. hold up as a spreader? With disc issues in the lower back, a hammock has become almost a necessity. I started with an eno off the shelf and moved to the chrysalis. I would really like to modify for weight so I am also curious on the rain fly material everyone uses..... and if it can be aquired from the same place as the spreader bars.
Alot of questions for 1st post but it seems like this is the type of forum that everyone helps each other out. Thanks in advance.
Bill
Bill,
The replacement spreaders I used were ordered from Quest Outfitters (http://www.questoutfitters.com/tent_poles.htm#TENT%20POLES). About 2/3 down this linked page. 0.625" aluminum poles. For my setup I used 3 poles with inserts (item #4060) and 2 poles without inserts (#4061). Also 4 endtips (#4032). My head end spreader is 3 equal length pieces (13"--not including insert), the foot is 2 equal length pieces (17.5"), cut to lengths with a hacksaw. The endtips fit right into the holes of the suspension webbing through which the stock poles were screwed. I think the aluminum should hold up fine provided you don't use the poles to move your body.
My tarp is a WB Superfly. I am still waiting on an MLD Cuben hex hammock tarp (5 weeks now....). Quest does sell 1.1 SilNylon (look under coated fabrics) and Cuben if you are thinking of DIYing your tarp. The cuben they sell is lighter weight than what seems to be used by "most" cuben tarp manufacturers.
Brian
Boris Losdindawoods
08-13-2010, 13:33
Billman, if you're somewhat handy as a do-it-yourselfer, there's a pretty simple way to add a handgrip to your hammock as a way to adjust your position. All you need is a continuous loop of amsteel and a willingness to mod your hammock. At the head end of your hammock, take the continuous loop and larkshead it to the main suspension right at the point where it enters the gathered fabric. Take the rest of the loop and fish it through the gathered fabric so it's hanging inside the head end of the hammock with you. Any time you need to adjust, you can reach up and pull as hard as you want on that loop. All of the stress from you pulling will be transferred straight to the suspension which is already holding your weight so it's really not much of a difference to the suspension. The length of loop you'll need really depends on your hammock and how far down the loop needs to hang in order for you to be able to grab it.
Paul has premade loops at Arrowhead (http://arrowheadequipment.webs.com/apps/webstore/products/show/1151827). If you need a longer loop, I'm sure he can crank one out for you if you tell him the length.
Boris
I picked up the wabi-ized Chrysalis from wabi's ad here. He did a nice job with those mods.:shades:
I am going to the Goat Island hang here in SC later today. The modded Chrysalis is one of the hammocks that I'll be taking.:D It's been hanging in my back yard for the last couple of days. Hope it dried enough today after last night's storm.:laugh:
BER, I'll be very interested in looking at your pics and mods again now that I have this thing.
Hang loose,:D
Chris
joggerjohn
08-13-2010, 14:51
I borrowed a Chrysalis from a friend and used a 5-1 Jerry Chair IX underquilt on it for insulation and it fit perfectly and snug against the bottom of the hammock . I figure that any 3/4 IX underquilt would work on it.
For those of you who have laid in this hammock, how much do you think the transverse panels of fabric make a difference in the lay of the hammock. In other words, I am wondering if I make a bridge with similar dimensions as the Chrysalis out of 1.9 ripstop, do you think that a single piece of ripstop will lay the same as having the multiple transverse panels. Obviously it would make it easier to cut one piece of ripstop than to sew multiple panels together before cutting to shape...
Land, the pictures of my modified Chrysalis are linked at the bottom of the original post.
Tested a couple of different pads in the Chrysalis yesterday. Thermarest Prolight 4 probably my lightest option, orange and black color matches Chrysalis "ensemble" :D, but a little narrow and a bit of pad slide. Next an older Thermarest Camprest Deluxe. Thicker, wider, certainly more comfortable than the prolight 4, less slippage due to better size match with the Chrysalis body, but the heaviest of the bunch :(. Finally my go to, the Big Agnes Insulated Air Core. As good, or perhaps slight better comfort than the Camprest. Same size and no slippage side to side. Reasonable weight. And given the thicker nature of this pad, brings shoulders up off curvature of hammock so absolutely no should squeeze (though I felt little to begin with). Very flat lay with same slight rise at head making pillow unnecessary.
Yes I believe I have avoided the thread injector again! No underquilt!
kycamper
08-31-2010, 10:29
I skipped all of the thermarest pads I had and just put in a Walmart excercise mat. It rolls up smaller then the thermarest pads and fits in my kayak's hold better. Comes right to the edge of the hammock sides. Worked very well and I did not slipp off of it with the mummy back like I do with the thermarests. It was also less then $15
genegene
02-02-2011, 09:05
BER:
How did the new spreader bars hold up? I want to use something that can completely come out of the hammock like what you have done.
BER:
How did the new spreader bars hold up? I want to use something that can completely come out of the hammock like what you have done.
Gene, I've not had any problems with the new spreaders. Just don't pull on them to shift your weight. I lent the Chrysalis out for the off season, but I haven't heard that either of the gents had any issues either.
GrizzlyAdams
03-11-2011, 21:55
Curiosity got the better of me so I popped $99 plus a free shipping code someone posted on another thread (thanks!) to get one of these fellas from Cabela's and have a look.
Then I remembered someone had done a nice quantish evaluation of Chrysalis dimensions and found this here thread. Nice job BER.
What can I say in addition to what's been said already---well, maybe from a bridge hammock user's point of view...
a) the lack of any kind of "squeeze" around the shoulder is achieved by the combination of a wide spreader bar at the head (39") with an almost the same width body there (43"). That also cranks up the compression on the head spreader, it's that geometry-multiplying-forces thing again. The body is wider but the width is smaller at the foot. The dimensions on mine are 36" spreader, 50" fabric beneath at the head, 26" spreader, 43" fabric beneath.
b) flatness in the middle is achieved with quite a narrow waist (28"). That's fine for me laying on my back, but one of the heavier guys on his side may find his top knee heading off the reservation. The waist on mine range from 30"-34" typically, (except for the loaner I sent to Danalex recently that was likely closer to 38". He was lucky to get out of it without calling 911).
c) this combination of wide and flat tend to make the hammock tippier than something narrower and deep, like the BMBH. It is compensated for in part by the longish side suspension triangles. Tippiness is mostly about the distance of the line between the tops of the suspension triangles (e.g., ridgeline) and the center of mass under load. Flatness brings the center of mass up, longer suspension triangles make the ridgeline higher.
d) The interesting feature of overlapping panels making up the body. A dollar to donuts that's to reduce the amount of fabric needed to make the body. When you cut a bridge body as I do out of one piece of fabric, that arc cut out isn't much use. So some smartbody figured that less fabric would be lost if the body were made of overlapping rectangles that were then trimmed. The rectangles near the middle would be smaller than the ones at the end. Clever.
e) I like the strip of webbing that acts as a cover over the tip of the spreader bar to protect the tarp. Gonna remember that one...
f) this webbing must be nylon. I don't get this kind of stretch with my polyester webbing + amsteel.
What others have said...it is comfortable, although I've not spent a night out in it. No way would I carry this rig in anything other than a gas-powered vehicle. When you get used to carrying 2lbs for hammock and tarp, 4 or 5 seems overwhelming.
I'm not sold on the integrated tarp thing, but that's just a personal preference. I like having shelter that isn't inside the hammock.
I'm tempted just for grins to see how much lighter I can make this thing. In addition to the swap-outs others have done, I'd have a go with the stitch ripper to get the webbing out of the side and put a channel in, run Amsteel through it. Probably just end up tear up the hammock or going crazy. To really save weight I'd need to use different material for the tarp. Given all that it would be easier just to make a lighter weight DIY version.
Good analysis, Griz. I learned stuff that I hadn't figured out myself - and I've got BER's hammock right here. (Will be sending it home soon. Thanks, BER!)
Griz, your theory that the use of overlapping panels saves fabric must assume that the double layers are necessary and would need to be made with separate strips of fabric if the main body of the hammock were a single piece of fabric with side cutouts, yes? So, how necessary are they, and why?
GrizzlyAdams
03-11-2011, 23:20
Good analysis, Griz. I learned stuff that I hadn't figured out myself - and I've got BER's hammock right here. (Will be sending it home soon. Thanks, BER!)
Griz, your theory that the use of overlapping panels saves fabric must assume that the double layers are necessary and would need to be made with separate strips of fabric if the main body of the hammock were a single piece of fabric with side cutouts, yes? So, how necessary are they, and why?
the picture below better illustrates the point I was making, and doesn't involve a double layer. Grey area is wasted fabric.
BTW I think the stitch used to bind two adjacent pieces is just a straight one through the edge of one layer laid on top of the other, taped. Very smooth.
19842
Then I remembered someone had done a nice quantish evaluation of Chrysalis dimensions and found this here thread. Nice job BER.
Thank you for the compliment Grizz, though quantish I am not. There was a reason I headed down the bioscience track and then into medicine....calculus. Before that class I had wanted to be an engineer. :rolleyes:
Some very good insights. One day, I will work on my thread injecting skills. I'd like to reproduce the dimensions of the chrysalis (which I find very comfortable) In a lighter package as you said.
Good analysis, Griz. I learned stuff that I hadn't figured out myself - and I've got BER's hammock right here. (Will be sending it home soon. Thanks, BER!)
Take your time David. We still have a lot of snow, and the next trip (May) is on the ground with my lovely bride. No need to rush to get it back.
the picture below better illustrates the point I was making, and doesn't involve a double layer. Grey area is wasted fabric.
BTW I think the stitch used to bind two adjacent pieces is just a straight one through the edge of one layer laid on top of the other, taped. Very smooth.
19842
That's a good illustration. I was wondering if the fabric saved (the cutouts) was larger than the area of the 5 parts where the fabric is doubled, which are 7 inches wide. A rough measurement shows the doubled area is about 8.38 sq. ft.
I studied calculus along with I. Newton and have forgotten it all, so I don't know the area of the side cuts. I also sort of assumed that there was some reason why the 5 overlapping strips were that wide (maybe to minimize side-to-side stretch?). Why not make them 1" wide? If they were sewn and taped the same way they would be just as flat. :confused:
Hey Grizz,
Glad to see you get into this one.
The new version has a one piece body and the lay actually comes out flatter than with the segmented body and it has a double layer for pad preferrers. Has to be simpler to produce.
I've been wondering what would happen if the hourglass was a few inches wider. When I side sleep my knee can overhang the suspension and it's uncomfortable. With an UQ it's still warm though.
inspectorguy
03-12-2011, 08:13
Hey Grizz,
Glad to see you get into this one.
The new version has a one piece body and the lay actually comes out flatter than with the segmented body and it has a double layer for pad preferrers. Has to be simpler to produce.
I've been wondering what would happen if the hourglass was a few inches wider. When I side sleep my knee can overhang the suspension and it's uncomfortable. With an UQ it's still warm though.
How do you attach an underquilt to avoid the velcro tabs for the canopy on the original model?
I installed 4 D-rings by dremelling a slot on the back side and sliding them on the small webbing pieces that cover the bolt heads that hold the spreader bars in place. Then use S biners on the D rings and the shock cord suspension that came with my summer Phoenix or the shock cord I added to the hem of my MW3. Works just fine, keeps the quilt up high and snug and when it's time to get out the cord stretches down nicely. The cord stays out of the way of the velcro. At first I used the biners and attached to the four tie out points on the Camper Sleeve itself but I like the newer method better as it comes down over the UQ.
The problem with the UQ will be if you don't have a separate tarp and it rains it will get wet. So quick setup with good weather use just the camper top and if weather looks bad install your tarp. I have the full bug net so I may never use the camper top, just bug sleeve and tarp. Maybe in cold weather use the camper top along with a regular tarp to act as a weather shield like Clark does on the NX models. I like having all those options.
Since I won't carry it on my back but canoe or motorcycle camp the extra weight isn't a problem for me and comfort is my goal.
genegene
03-14-2011, 00:05
If you re work the Chrysalis and want to keep the top (I do like it) please rework the vents and make them bigger. It has a Ice buildup problem. I have used it a few times this year and this is what I have found:
0 - 10 High Ice buildup,
15 - 25 Moderate Ice build up,
25 - 32 Low Ice buildup
32 + I dont know yet
Bigger vents are needed
Did you leave the side vents open?
From what I read from others experiences that is necessary to combat the condensation issues in cold weather.
Billman, if you're somewhat handy as a do-it-yourselfer, there's a pretty simple way to add a handgrip to your hammock as a way to adjust your position. All you need is a continuous loop of amsteel and a willingness to mod your hammock. At the head end of your hammock, take the continuous loop and larkshead it to the main suspension right at the point where it enters the gathered fabric. Take the rest of the loop and fish it through the gathered fabric so it's hanging inside the head end of the hammock with you. Any time you need to adjust, you can reach up and pull as hard as you want on that loop. All of the stress from you pulling will be transferred straight to the suspension which is already holding your weight so it's really not much of a difference to the suspension. The length of loop you'll need really depends on your hammock and how far down the loop needs to hang in order for you to be able to grab it.
Paul has premade loops at Arrowhead (http://arrowheadequipment.webs.com/apps/webstore/products/show/1151827). If you need a longer loop, I'm sure he can crank one out for you if you tell him the length.
Boris
Boris, do you have any pictures of this set up? I was in the hammock last night and made the cardinal sin- used the spreader bar to adjust my fat a*s. Bent right in my hand. :(
I'm going to call Eureka in the AM to order a new spreader bar. Depending on the price, I may decide to go with Quest Outfitters instead.
[QUOTE=GrizzlyAdams;425903]Curiosity got the better of me so I popped $99 plus a free shipping code someone posted on another thread (thanks!) to get one of these fellas from Cabela's and have a look.
Grizz. do you think the grommets are going to be a weak point where the spreader bars go through?
Grizz. do you think the grommets are going to be a weak point where the spreader bars go through?
No grommets there Mule. Just a hole through the webbing.
Just called Eureka/Johnson Outdoors. They don't stock replacement parts.:confused:
Off to Quest I go.
AaronAlso
08-22-2011, 20:21
I want one!!
If anyone comes up with a pattern for a DIY of this, please! please! please! for the love of God and Country post it in the DIY forum and send me a link in PM.
I want one!!
If anyone comes up with a pattern for a DIY of this, please! please! please! for the love of God and Country post it in the DIY forum and send me a link in PM.
A good place to look at some interesting stuff is the US patent office. Here (http://patft.uspto.gov/netacgi/nph-Parser?Sect1=PTO1&Sect2=HITOFF&d=PALL&p=1&u=%2Fnetahtml%2FPTO%2Fsrchnum.htm&r=1&f=G&l=50&s1=7020915.PN.&OS=PN/7020915&RS=PN/7020915)
Check out ALL the images.
SinisterMinister
08-23-2011, 16:05
Check out ALL the images.
I couldn't view the images on the site you posted, but I found them here (http://www.patsnap.com/patents/view/US7020915.html). Along with a PDF version. Very interesting pattern.
Thank you SinisterMinister. Those are the exact images I referred too. Kind of an interesting shape. I wonder why all the curves?
AaronAlso
08-24-2011, 16:02
That is interesting, indeed, I don't think all those curves are necessary.
the new version doesn't have all those different sized panels on the bottom, it's one soild piece of fabric.
jefftrex
12-07-2011, 13:58
thanks for all the info I and modifing mine all the stock suspension is in the original stuff sack and i have added chain ling cinch buckle and dyna glide ridge line.
need to see how my Leiglo FL quilt works on the Chrysalis.
Any one tried putting a down uq on a Eureka Chrysalis?
egrant5329
12-07-2011, 14:34
I have wondered about the way the sides are cut and the affect they might have on the material under your back. With someone in the hammock I would think the sides would be pulled into a cat curve so the angle of the material under you should vary based on the way the sides are cut. Does anyone have any insight on the effects of the side cuts on the flatness or supportiveness under your back?
I have toyed with the idea of sewing the center of the floor of my bridge to have a slight upward arch, but I think it would throw off the center of gravity.
I would enjoy playing with one, but they aren't available in the US anymore and I don't want to pay a bunch of money to just play around with one.
Ed
kreecher
12-08-2011, 11:53
...I would enjoy playing with one, but they aren't available in the US anymore and I don't want to pay a bunch of money to just play around with one.
Ed
Jefftrex is selling his for 120 Canadian Dollars. Perhaps a nice opportunity ? :) => look here: http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/showthread.php?t=43090&highlight=chrysalis
Can't say anything about the rest. I am working on a waterproof sling to put underneath the chrysalis to put in a down UQ. When I'm done, I'll test it in the garden of my mother and put the hose on if it isn't raining to see if it's still waterproof after my adjustments. :)
egrant5329
12-08-2011, 14:40
Jefftrex is selling his for 120 Canadian Dollars. Perhaps a nice opportunity ? :) => look here: http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/showthread.php?t=43090&highlight=chrysalis
:)
They used to be ~$90 in the US and for what I want to do with it I don't want to pay that much. If I were going to use the hammock then it would be different.
Now that I have finally worked out the best flatness and width on my bridge, I'll start making bridge #4 next weekend and then will start work on one for my 8yo. I also will do the UQ for them this winter.
Ed
kreecher
12-08-2011, 15:51
Well, I've got an original one (not the newer one), if there's anything I can do for you (pictures, measurements) just ask. This is a good hammock, but it could be even better, so I'm all for helping someone out that wants to make a DIY alternative. :)
For one, the length between the two spreaders could be a bit longer, it's a bit short for my liking. I don't think the weird hammock shape does anything, since the new version doesn't even have it any more. The hammock should come with woopies as a standard, not all that nylon. I've also added in two parts of a child's toy hoop to put on top of the ridge-line and underneath the tent, so the "tent" is rounder at the top. And an additional layer to put in a down UQ would be nice too instead of the new "double layer" the newer tent has that just fits a mat. I'm making one, the tent that velcro's to the bottom now, will velcro to the waterproof bag and the bag sticks to the hammock velcro. Not sure if it'll work, but I'll let ya know if ya want to. :)
egrant5329
12-08-2011, 17:00
Admittedly I am intrigued by the chrysalis video. For as flat as the cut is it looks really stable when the girl leans out, but it also appears that they don't have it stretched tight.
With my bridges I can get them fairly flat from side to side, but I have to stretch it tight to get it flat end to end. When I pull it tight I lose quite a bit of stability.
I was hoping the odd side cuts were allowing a less taunt hang while providing a more flat lay end to end. I didn't realize the dropped that aspect of the design.
Egrant, if your talking about the video I am thinking about its the old model she is hanging out of. I remember finding the patent for the Chrysalis and it was a really funky shape. I'm not sure if that's what was used but it really was a weird design.
egrant5329
12-09-2011, 11:33
Jazilla,
The patent shape is what I was referring to. With the sides cut that way I would assume it would affect the lay unless it was stretchy material.
In mine the heavier regions of my body distort the cat curve and I thought the offset cuts on the sides might be an attempt to change that or flatten the lay.
kreecher
12-09-2011, 12:47
Problem is, the chrysalis is the only bridge hammock I own... So I can't really compare it to another bridge hammock. If anybody is willing to donate an old unused bridge hammock to a hammock charity case (me) I'll be more than willing to do a thorough comparison. ;) Or else, of course, I could take some pictures of the hammock alone with someone laying in it so you can compare the hammock profile to another bridge hammock, but that wouldn't give me a cool freebie like another hammock. ;)
The chrysalis is really comfy to me though and when I tighten the lines enough it gives me a nice flat lay. Which seems to be the case with other bridge hammocks as well. If it helps at all, I'm 5,94feet and weigh 145,5 pounds. As stated, the length between the stretcher bars could be a bit more. When I lay on my back my feet go into the foot storage area. Good thing that most of the time I'm a side sleeper with my legs pulled up somewhat. :)
egrant5329
12-09-2011, 13:40
Kreecher,
When you pull it tight to get the flat lay, do you loose much of the stability? In the video with the model it wasn't tight at all, nor did it look anywhere near flat enough to lay on your stomach.
Looking at the design of the chrysalis it looks like your feet are supposed to go under the foot spreader bar. It seems like the benefit is a shorter cat curve on the side, more support and it shortens the entire system.
You most likely wouldn't like one of my previous bridges compared to the chrysalis unless you have really narrow shoulders. They followed Grizz's videos and use a 36" header and 28" footer.
It's funny but I really liked my 1st Bridge until about the 4th time I slept in it and then the shoulder squeeze started bothering me. My 2nd was a cosmetically better version of my 1st bridge. My 3rd Bridge followed more closely to the chrysalis with a 39" header (arc ratio of ~1.1) and a 30" footer. Unfortunately I had a brain fart and made it too short. Fortunately, I noticed it before I did the endcaps and bug screen which are the hardest part of doing a bridge. My 4th will have a 39" header and a 36" footer and will maintain the shallow ratio like the chrysalis. The wider spreader bars necessitate longer suspension triangles so the trees have to be even further apart, but I think it will help a little with the stability. I am a little afraid to put my legs under my spreader bar because I am using ultralite segmented carbon fiber bars and I am afraid I might hit them in the night and break them or something.
Ed
kreecher
12-09-2011, 16:56
Kreecher,
When you pull it tight to get the flat lay, do you loose much of the stability? In the video with the model it wasn't tight at all, nor did it look anywhere near flat enough to lay on your stomach.
Well, I don't feel unstable in it. IMO it's easier to get into when tighter and I haven' gotten the feeling of tipping over. But I do often use two guy-lines (with shock cord in them), since the tent catches quite some wind.
Tarps haven't won me over completely yet. I like my privacy and the tarp I use for my eno and fitted with doors is so big 'n heavy... I do like the "all in one" idea of the chrysalis. The lighter tarps don't give me the privacy I look for, but I do like my new down UQ that fits my eno so nicely a lot. Hope my idea for attaching the UQ to the chrysalis will work and make me a happy camper. Choices, choices,... Ah well. :)
Looking at the design of the chrysalis it looks like your feet are supposed to go under the foot spreader bar. It seems like the benefit is a shorter cat curve on the side, more support and it shortens the entire system.
You may be right on that one, but my fear is the same as yours. I'm very wary of kicking the bar. 's Why I'd like a longer one. ;D So far that hasn't happened and it's probably because the hammock is looser at the foot end because of the shorter spreader there. I have taken an inch from the head spreader bar though, the fabric felt too tight. First time I got in, like many, I placed my head at the foot end and that was mighty comfy. When I turned the right way, the fabric was too tight. Hence the inch.
You're a bridge veteran compared to me. :D If DIY materials were cheaper around here and I could actually find them easier, I'd try a DIY bridge too. :) Btw, the thing I absolutely love in the chrysalis is the fact that they used the room in between the suspension triangles to make some storage, ingenious.:D
I guess I do have quite narrow shoulders, but my same width hips make up for that. :) It's my hips that made me look for something else than a floor to sleep on. I like the coziness of a tent, but I could never sleep on those camping mat things without waking up several times because of the pain.
Your idea for a shallower DIY bridge sounds good. Never picked a bridge because they looked annoying to get in and out of because of the depth and they looked a bit restrictive for a curling-up side sleeper. The chrysalis seemed overall a lot flatter for a bridge and I took the chance on it, haven't regretted it. :) I'm very interested in your DIY design. :)
egrant5329
12-09-2011, 17:51
Since I am in New England, I would call your Chrysalis a "covered" bridge.
I like the use of the head suspension triangle as storage. I make my end caps ~6" deep for the same reason, but they can't hold nearly as much as the chrysalis. I have thought about making the storage on mine like the chrysalis,but I am trying to stay minimalistic for weight purposes.
For me the test of stability is to pull it as flat as you can get it the sit up and touch your toes. Also roll over on your stomach. If you can easily do both of those without grabbing the sides to balance it, then you are stable.
egrant5329
12-09-2011, 17:54
My design is really BER's cloud and cirrous design. He made a table showing the spreader bar lengths and the material arc lengths under the spreader bars of the various bridges including the chrysalis.
:lol: you are digging' up all sorts of old threads!
Yeah I know, there's a story behind all this.................................... For most of the first part of this year, I have worked on a new hammock design----something really origional, that would "blow your mind"! LOL ! However, after spending way too much time and energy on it, and trashing several prototypes, last week I had to face the cold hard truth-------plain and simple, it didnt work. I worked it from lots of different angles---just doesnt work---I'll admit it, it was a bad idea:( I know that now, and am ready to move on.......................
Once I came to that conclusion, I decided to make a bridge. So, for the past 2 weeks Ive been on a crash course on bridge design! Come to find out, bridge hammocks are just what I was looking for! (I love it!) So, I may have taken the senic route getting here, but in the end I will have a great hammock custom designed by me! (and in the process I learned alot, and my sewing has improved considerably---it wasnt wasted time at all!) :)
BackPackHiker
08-07-2012, 09:35
I think it is worth mentioning that Eureka is a Tent company which is why they created the hammock in that way. They told me that the reason for the heavy weight of the hammock was because they were going for a "high level of comfort and interrior room, not a light weight".
Alsoo they have a new model that is out that replaced the model you purchased that features different, lighter, but much more stretchy webbing. I am also planning to review this newer model soon and will have a simular post.
Great post BER:thumbup:
Not to forget that Eureka didn't design the hammock, that was done by this fellow, David Helsdon.
http://helsdonoutdoors.com/chrysalis.aspx
.... For most of the first part of this year, I have worked on a new hammock design----something really origional, that would "blow your mind"! LOL ! However, after spending way too much time and energy on it, and trashing several prototypes, last week I had to face the cold hard truth-------plain and simple, it didnt work. I worked it from lots of different angles---just doesnt work---I'll admit it, it was a bad idea:( I know that now, and am ready to move on.......................
I've been there, done that, got an uncomfortable hammock to prove it! :lol:
But, do not feel bad about that! I'm sure you learned a lot, as I did. We also got lots of sewing practice ;)
No new ideas were discovered without a lot of trial & error.
I'd like to know how many "prototypes" Brandon went through before coming up with the Blackbird! On second thought, I probably don't! :eek:
I am so glad I don't know how to sew as I would be draning my credit cards and become the terror of the sewing machines. :lol: