gargoyle
08-26-2010, 13:11
Had a special request for a 12' diamond with removable doors.
So I built the tarp and made four individual panels, that clip on to the ridgeline and to hooks I sewed into the tarp tie outs.
Tarp specs:
12 foot ridgeline x 10'-8". Weight 11.6 oz.
Doors (all four panels, with mitten hooks, and shockcord) 3.4 oz
Total weight: 15 oz.
Panels are modular and can be hooked on in a few different ways, as you will see.;) This set up requires the use of a continuous ridgeline and interior prussiks, I will explain..read on.
13391
Diamond set up with no doors. Only two stakes needed.
13392
Doors added. Small ribbon ties help seal the gap where suspension rides. Roof overlaps the door panel by about an inch. With only two stakes the doors pull slightly at the fabric of the main body, but it is functional. Staking out the side pullouts alleviates the gathering completely. Requires six stakes for the main body, and two for the bottom of the doors. 8 stakes total.
13393
Shockcord runs off the bottom clips to a stake. I went with shockcord to allow the doors to flex a little, yet be held tight. As Old Gringo has demonstrated in the other Ogee thread, the doors could be tied to the trees eliminating the need for a stake at the door base.
13394
At the ridgeline I added a small prussik, which allows for some adjustment in the tension on the doors. Mitten hooks clip to the prussik loop. Putting the prussik into use brought the edge of the under the tarp, creating a drip edge of sorts. Water/rain will run down the roof and off. Theres around an inch overhang. The hooks can also be fixed directly to the ridge and prussik, tightening the gap between the roof and the door. During testing I tried to use the webbing tie as a spot to mount the door, but it allowed the door to be open where the roofline and door met, allowing water in the gap. Not the desired effect I was looking for. Hence the prussik loop.
13395
On the side webbing tie out, I added a small metal hoop. The mitten hooks clips on to the hoop, again back under the edge of the tarp.
Entry and exit from the tarp can be done by undoing any one of the mitten hooks at the lower door or the side tieout.
The mitten hooks provide a bit of a fail safe, if you trip on a guy line or pull to hard on a panel, the clips snap free, yet are undamaged and can be reinstalled.
13396
Door panel pulled out and away from one side and staked out. This creates an effective wind block on this end, yet easy entry/exit. I didn't move anything else on the tarp, just unclipped the side tie out, pulled the door down to a stake.
13397
All four panels clipped in on one end of the tarp. Not a complete seal, but should be effective at blocking a lot of wind.
The customer wanted a versatile tarp, with the option of carrying doors if needed.
:)G
So I built the tarp and made four individual panels, that clip on to the ridgeline and to hooks I sewed into the tarp tie outs.
Tarp specs:
12 foot ridgeline x 10'-8". Weight 11.6 oz.
Doors (all four panels, with mitten hooks, and shockcord) 3.4 oz
Total weight: 15 oz.
Panels are modular and can be hooked on in a few different ways, as you will see.;) This set up requires the use of a continuous ridgeline and interior prussiks, I will explain..read on.
13391
Diamond set up with no doors. Only two stakes needed.
13392
Doors added. Small ribbon ties help seal the gap where suspension rides. Roof overlaps the door panel by about an inch. With only two stakes the doors pull slightly at the fabric of the main body, but it is functional. Staking out the side pullouts alleviates the gathering completely. Requires six stakes for the main body, and two for the bottom of the doors. 8 stakes total.
13393
Shockcord runs off the bottom clips to a stake. I went with shockcord to allow the doors to flex a little, yet be held tight. As Old Gringo has demonstrated in the other Ogee thread, the doors could be tied to the trees eliminating the need for a stake at the door base.
13394
At the ridgeline I added a small prussik, which allows for some adjustment in the tension on the doors. Mitten hooks clip to the prussik loop. Putting the prussik into use brought the edge of the under the tarp, creating a drip edge of sorts. Water/rain will run down the roof and off. Theres around an inch overhang. The hooks can also be fixed directly to the ridge and prussik, tightening the gap between the roof and the door. During testing I tried to use the webbing tie as a spot to mount the door, but it allowed the door to be open where the roofline and door met, allowing water in the gap. Not the desired effect I was looking for. Hence the prussik loop.
13395
On the side webbing tie out, I added a small metal hoop. The mitten hooks clips on to the hoop, again back under the edge of the tarp.
Entry and exit from the tarp can be done by undoing any one of the mitten hooks at the lower door or the side tieout.
The mitten hooks provide a bit of a fail safe, if you trip on a guy line or pull to hard on a panel, the clips snap free, yet are undamaged and can be reinstalled.
13396
Door panel pulled out and away from one side and staked out. This creates an effective wind block on this end, yet easy entry/exit. I didn't move anything else on the tarp, just unclipped the side tie out, pulled the door down to a stake.
13397
All four panels clipped in on one end of the tarp. Not a complete seal, but should be effective at blocking a lot of wind.
The customer wanted a versatile tarp, with the option of carrying doors if needed.
:)G