tim`s 2nd down hammock?

[slowhike]

i told about how my 1st down hammock didn`t do so well (photos in the images for homemade gearforums directions).
i`ve learned that you really have to be sure to add enough extra fabric in the outter shell to allow for the hammock body streching. according to the fabric, it may strech more than you think.
also, if you look at the color drawing of how i put the 1st down hammock together, you will see how the three chambers form "wedges".
some of the down will find it`s way up into these narrowing wedges & become traped & compressed... & therefore useless.
so this time i plan to use a more traditional baffle system.
i know that jeff, rick, & mabey others have sewed to the hammock body (the main part of the hammock that supports your weight) & have had no problem.
and i know that the main reason that my 1st down hammock ripped at one of the seams is mainly because i didn`t add enough extra fabric length to the outter shell & as the hammock body continued to strech, it began to pull on that stiching.
but this next hammock is going to have even more sewing because of the extra baffles.
so i`ve decided to do this; i`ll make a double hammock, brobably using 1.1 ripstop (untreated) for both layers.
the only sewing on the top layer will be the sides & ends as usual.
the bottom layer will have the baffles sewn to it.
then a third layer of 1.1 ripstop will fllow below this. the third layer will be the outer shell of the down insulated part. it will probly be 7' long.
NOTE; in the new drawing i put in the "images for homemade gear forums directions", i used 3 colors.
1)pink is the bottom layer of the double hammock. the top layer is not shown in this drawing.
2) purple is the baffles.
3) green is the outter shell.
when the unit shown in the drawing is sewn together, it will be layed flat & the 2nd (or top) layer of the double hammock will be added.
thoughts welcome. ...tim

[Just Jeff]

Here's the link to the pic: http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery/showimage.php?i=197&c=15

I made one with a double layer, and the baffles were only sewn to the bottom layer. I just used long baffles along the length of the hammock - one large chamber in the middle, one narrower one on each side. Some thoughts:

- The bottom layer will stretch A LOT less than a single layer...makes a big difference.
- The three baffles were enough.
- I can't think of the word right now, but I curved the bugnet for the baffles a little bit. Differential? I had a long strip, then folded it like I was putting a dart into one side. I did this in 3-4 places along the length, so it ended up with a pretty decent curve. I thought this would keep the baffle from distorting with any hammock stretch. Guess it worked...couldn't really see it inside the chambers, but it felt normal.

If you remember Dave's from Hot Springs, he made it kinda like you're talking about with a lot of baffles. His bottom layer was attached with velcro just to make testing easier, but he also used elastic along the baffles to keep everything snugged against the bottom of the hammock. It worked great for a velcro-type underquilt like his...I think his plan was to remove the velcro when he gets it perfected. Didn't have a weight on it yet. Anyway, might be worth asking him some details before you start cutting.

Good luck on it!

[slowhike]

thanks jeff. i`l do that... give dave an email.

[Smee]

Sounds like you're just permanently attaching an underquilt. Might be easier to sew it that way too. Don't make a double hammock. Make a single hammock and a separate quilt. Then sew the quilt to the hammock. Might simplify the process. My 2 cents.

[Porkbutter]

My thoughts echo what Smee said.
Plus, since you are using 3 layers instead of 2, I can't help but wonder if it would really be an advantage over just using an underquilt. The weight would be about the same. You would gain a little ease of setup, but you would lose the ability to let the underquilt sag a bit to compensate for warmer than expected weather.

[Just Jeff]

The big advantage is the fit...zero air gaps, zero compression if you get the dimensions right. But the downside is losing the flexibility. My new one uses only two layers so I lose the weight of an entire layer. It's just under 20 oz for lots of loft...should get me to at least 30, hoping for 20 but kinda doubt it. I also use my sit pad for foot insulation...the down chamber goes to about my calf.

[slowhike]

Sounds like you're just permanently attaching an underquilt. Might be easier to sew it that way too. Don't make a double hammock. Make a single hammock and a separate quilt. Then sew the quilt to the hammock. Might simplify the process. My 2 cents.

that`s what i plan to do. that`s why the color drawing doesn`t show the top layer of the hammock.
porkbutter, your right about loosing the flexability, but this would be a cold weather hammock.
i can sleep fine in my synthetic insulated hammock in the house w/o getting hot... as long as it`s not hot in the house.
the advantage w/ this insulated hammock is (like jeff said) zero air gaps & no adjustments needed.
and hopefully it will save a few ozs over the underquilt w/ it`s attachments??? we`ll see.
if nothing else, mabey it`ll save me a few bucks for now.
when i`m able i`ll no dought make or buy a seperrate underquilt for the flexability in warmer temps. ...tim

[Porkbutter]

the advantage w/ this insulated hammock is (like jeff said) zero air gaps & no adjustments needed.


And don't forget one of the biggest advantages: That feeling you get when it is from the work of your own hands. Can't buy that!

[slowhike]

And don't forget one of the biggest advantages: That feeling you get when it is from the work of your own hands. Can't buy that!

yeah, that is a good feeling.

[slowhike]

when using no-see-um netting for baffles on a down quilt, do i need to fold & hem the edges of the netting strips before sewing them to the shell?

[Just Jeff]

I never did. I think it would only matter if you stressed them...just be careful with it and you should be ok, IMO.

[Peter_pan]

when using no-see-um netting for baffles on a down quilt, do i need to fold & hem the edges of the netting strips before sewing them to the shell?

Slowhike, et al,

If you take the time and care to do this step you will have a stronger higher quality item.... It will hold up better over the years... Especially valuable when washing the quilt/bag as washing often puts a lot of stresses and wet weight on baffles... there have been enough of these failures over the years that most folk seldom wash a bag...resorting to the use of liners (extra weight) and frequent airings to maintain cleanliness.

BTW, JRB baffles are installed with double folded edges.

Pan