Israel National Trail

[jbphilly]

I'm about 80% of the way through a 2 month trek from Eilat to the Lebanon border with Israel. I'd consider this a world class trail; in 1000 km it's got massive, isolated desert, biblical hills, dramatic mountains like the Carmel, Meron and the area around Jerusalem, coastal seashore, rolling hills and valleys in the Galilee, and the great rift valley (here, it's the Sea of Galilee and the Jordan Valley). In spring, it's mild weather with green grass and brilliant wildflowers everywhere (well, not in the Negev). For the non-desert part, there are towns near the trail every day, so you never need to carry more than a day's worth of food.

Anyway, just thought I'd spread the word about the trail since I've enjoyed it so much. Hammockers may despair at the fact that 40% of it is in a desert where hammocking is impossible, but I've successfully hung on the other 60% and I didn't mind sleeping under a tarp for three weeks in the desert.

Selling points - it's a beautiful trail, which takes you through hugely different landscapes in a small distance, challenging but doable by most people, in a first-world country that's still quite exotic (besides all the religious and historical interest, and the variety of cultures and religions you'll encounter along the way), and quite safe - it stays within the borders of Israel proper and out the occupied territories, and the only real hazard is getting injured or dehydrated in the desert, which is easily avoided if you are prepared.

Mostly it's Israelis hiking it, but I've run into about half a dozen other Americans - including four grizzled old AT vets with 9 pound base weights (though they found it a bit rough carrying 5-6 liters of water through the desert I think). I'd go with a group if possible since you may feel left out if you're the only gentile and non-Hebrew speaker in a group you find here, but you'll meet fantastic people for sure, including "trail angels" that let hikers stay in their homes for a night (or sometimes in cabins they've prepared in their yards!). Two Americans I know who hiked it solo said they rarely slept outside, as people they met invited them to stay for the night so often.

Anyway, a few hammock-related pictures from it...

http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii152/julesdoesthemiddleeast/Israel%20Trail/IMG_8180.jpg
This was the only place in the desert part of the trail where I could hammock. Unfortunately we didn't camp there. You're only supposed to (and should only) camp in designated night camps in order to protect the desert's fragile ecosystem, and none of the camps have trees you could use.

http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii152/julesdoesthemiddleeast/Israel%20Trail/P3280456.jpg
Camping on Tel Azeka, near where David killed Goliath...

http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii152/julesdoesthemiddleeast/Middle%20East%20take%202/Picture044.jpg
In the north, tons of these forests have been planted to "reclaim land" and beautify the place. It's politically shady and environmentally sort of disastrous, but they make it easy to hammock when otherwise it could be quite tough. In fact, the two easiest types of trees to hang on are invasive species planted for poorly thought out reasons - these pines, and eucalyptus. I've also hung off olive trees and other native plants, but less often.

Anyway, check it out...it's a great trail to hike!

[lazy river road]

AAAHHH man I know exactly where your coming from having been to Israel 3 times and living in the Negev for a year I loved it and am extremely jelous. Its a beautiful country with beautiful scenery all around. I wish you the best of luck in completing your hike and cant wait to see pics and a full trip report when you come back. Did you go with a program and are you doing this buy your self?
בהצלחה (Hebrew saying for "to your success)
LRR

[Cannibal]

I had no idea they had a trail over there. Thanks for the info!

[Law Dawg (ret)]

Well done! Sure would like to see and read more...please?:D

[Veto 65]

Thank you for posting pictures from your part of the world. Maybe someday I'll go.

[dragon360]

I would love to see more. Send more pics!

[jbphilly]

I just uploaded pictures from the desert section of the trail; they're on my photobucket (link below). My camera stopped working right after I finished the desert, so there's only a few other pictures, from another guy's camera that I'm hiking with. Still gives you a glimpse though. Photobucket is dumb and uploads everything in reverse order, so chronological order starts from the "end."

http://s263.photobucket.com/albums/ii152/julesdoesthemiddleeast/Israel%20Trail/

Doing the trail by myself, plus a group of people I found via the internet. It's down to just 2 now - first the Orthodox Jews in the group split off since their fasting and sabbath-keeping habits made their pace too slow for us; then the other half of the group kept having knee and foot problems. I'm the only one without any, and only one guy is left able to hike so it's just me and him for the final push up to Dan.

http://israelnationaltrail.com/ will tell you a lot about it. There's a guidebook available in English but the quality is piss-poor...some people I know who wrote another hiking guide for Israel (the Jesus Trail) may write one in the future but until then, try and find a free copy of the existing one since you'll hate yourself for spending any amount of money on it much less the sixty bucks it costs. (the guy who answers all the questions on the forum there wrote the book so don't comment too much about it being bad...)

The only headache is organizing water caches in the desert. The headache comes from figuring out in advance your hiking distances per day and your water and food needs (probably 7 liters per person in each cache is good; it gives you 5 to 5.5 liters to drink the next day, plus extra for cooking, cleaning and just to spare). It's also expensive...there's people you can pay to drive you out to the desert night camps to cache. If you split it between a larger group the cost doesn't hit so hard; with 8 people, our bill for 7 caches came to around 60 bucks per person. But you may also need more caches since we were with a large, supported group for the first week.

Here's a few more pictures, though not from my part of the world - I'm from Philadelphia and just traveling here. I love being here but could never live here permanently!

http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii152/julesdoesthemiddleeast/Israel%20Trail/IMG_8413.jpg
http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii152/julesdoesthemiddleeast/Israel%20Trail/IMG_8289.jpg
http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii152/julesdoesthemiddleeast/Israel%20Trail/IMG_8022.jpg
http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii152/julesdoesthemiddleeast/Israel%20Trail/IMG_7796.jpg
http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii152/julesdoesthemiddleeast/Israel%20Trail/IMG_7749.jpg
http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii152/julesdoesthemiddleeast/Israel%20Trail/P3250411.jpg
http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii152/julesdoesthemiddleeast/Israel%20Trail/P3230387.jpg

These are all from the southern half of the trail - desert and the Judean foothills. Up north it's far more lush and covered in wildflowers.

You meet all kinds of people...atheists from Tel Aviv, socialist kibbutzniks, Bedouin shepherds, Hasidic Jews grilling out at some rabbi's tomb, Palestinian (Israeli Arab) villagers, Druze, and on and on..

[dragon360]

Fantastic! Thank you.

[bigbamaguy]

All I can say is.........very jealous of you!!!!!!!! Thank you very much for taking me to the other side of the world, it was a nice escape during my break at work today.

[Bandanabraids]

Beautiful! It is my dream to go to the Holy Land someday.

Thank you for sharing your pictures!

Christina

[BillyBob58]

WOW OH WOW! For me personally, maybe the best thread HF ever! Most of my adult life I have tried to make many trips which have turned out to be very rewarding. Mostly rewarding in terms of being able to enjoy the creation, and the outdoors and in having adventure in the wilds.

But as I have gotten older, my interests have shifted some what, my ideas of what is really important. Not that I don't still thoroughly enjoy my outdoor adventures. But the trip I took to Israel 4 years ago was hands down the best trip I have ever taken, the most rewarding. And it was a tour bus and hotel rooms! I guess it just relates to things that most interest me now, things that are most important.

I have taken several fine trips since then, similar tours that were not hiking trips. They have been very enjoyable, but nothing has matched Israel for me. Next we went to Greece. Then we were supposed to go back to Israel, but that fell through so we went to Alaska. We just got back from Italy. All grand in their own way. We hope to go back to Israel next spring, if war is not raging.

And now here you come with a trip which has my favorite activity- hammock camping- but it is also in Israel! I can't beat that, or even match it!

"Camping on Tel Azeka, near where David killed Goliath..." really kills me!

Hey, the very 1st picture in your last post, where a lone hiker (you?) is looking over the desert: that kind of looks like Masada off to the right. Is it, or just a look alike?

Thanks for sharing this!

[jbphilly]

Nah, that's not Masada - this is in Makhtesh Ramon, way down in the heart of the Negev! And it's me in all the pictures.

This trail is very doable for anybody who's an experienced hiker...the infrastructure is all there and lots of people (including a few foreigners) do the trail every spring. It's pretty expensive to get here from the US, though I did it for $1100 with two one-way tickets on AirBerlin. Living costs here are also quite expensive (on par with the priciest places in Western Europe) though in the West Bank everthing costs half as much or less. I'd encourage anybody to do the trail who's wanted to come and see this part of the world; hiking is a MUCH better way to see a country than the tour bus method. I've been independent travelling all over the place and it's great - hitchhiking around the Galilee and Negev, trekking from one national park to another, riding the Palestinian taxis around the West Bank, exploring the old cities, working on my Hebrew and Arabic, and meeting all kinds of people. Tomorrow, the Samaritans (they still exist) are sacrificing sheep for passover so I'm going to go down to Nablus and watch the ceremony.

It's a world class trail and definitely worth a look. And aside from the scenery, the landscape is packed with religion, politics and history. You have medieval monasteries and Muslim fortresses, ancient Judean and Canaanite ruins, tons of Roman cities, destroyed Palestinian villages from 1948, and the sites of more Biblical stories than you can shake a stick at.

[BillyBob58]

Thanks for clearing that up, kind of looked a bit like it. But then again, there are lots of formations like that in the world's deserts. A truly fascinating place, that Masada. Strictly from a historical perspective, the final end of the war against the Jews by Rome. At the start of the Jewish revolt against Rome, the rebels over came the Roman garrison at Herod the Great's refuge/fortress(Masada) which he had built around 31BC. When the Romans could not over come the rebels locked away in that well supplied fortress, they just left them surrounded- Roman encampments visible to this day. Off the Romans go to destroy the rest of the Roman province of Judea, including Jerusalem in 70AD. After over a million Jews die in the destruction of Jerusalem and burning of the Temple ( war conducted by Roman General Titus, son of Emperor Vespasian), with enough survivors sold into slavery to depress the world wide slave market, the Romans return to Masada. Using Jewish slaves, they build a ramp up the cliffs of Masada. That way, if the defenders killed the ramp builders, they would be killing their own countrymen. When the Romans finally broke through the walls of Masada, they found ( except I think 2 women and 5 children found hiding in a cistern?) every man, woman and child(~1000) had committed suicide rather than be taken as slaves or crucified by Rome. Then no more Jewish province or state until 1948.

The history of this land is overwhelming! It would be wild to spend the night camped under the stars at a place like Masada or very near it, maybe in the ruins of one of the surrounding Roman camps.

When I was in the Roman Forum ruins in Italy a few weeks ago, I saw Titus' arch. One of the few surviving arches from this period (~ 70AD), and the oldest surviving arch in the forum, it is a celebration of Rome's complete destruction of their enemies, the Jews. It depicts the victory parade of Titus, as he brought some of the surviving Jews back to Rome as a sacrifice to either Jupiter or Saturn, not sure which. Depicted being carried above their heads is the loot from the now destroyed Jewish temple, including a large Menorah.
http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery/files/2/2/9/img_0290_thumb.jpg (http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery/showimage.php?i=13541&c=10)
http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery/files/2/2/9/img_0285_thumb.jpg (http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery/showimage.php?i=13539&c=10)
http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery/files/2/2/9/img_0288_thumb.jpg (http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery/showimage.php?i=13540&c=10)

For any one with any interest in history, this land is hard to beat! It would be so great to sleep out in a hammock in such a place! I also saw a few places in Italy I wouldn't mind hanging a hammock!

[jbphilly]

I've heard the Masada suicide story is of questionable veracity, an interesting story in itself...Josephus was a Jewish guy who adopted Hellenized/Roman customs and citizenship, and the sole source for the Masada story (also for non-Biblical mentions of Jesus IIRC). The idea of committing suicide rather than face slavery, the line of argument went, is very badass and admirable by Roman standards, but the idea of committing suicide at all would have been abhorrent by Jewish values. However, Josephus was writing for a Roman audience and wanted to impress them with how hardcore and awesome his people were. Given that in those times, standards for writing history were somewhat different and not what would be called rigorous by today's standards, its very possible that he could have made the story up.

Of course, it could be true - just the fact that suicide for any reason is so un-Jewish led some to believe it could be made up to impress Romans.

Anyway, it's neither here nor there. The historical interest is unbelievable. Like I mentioned, tomorrow I'm going to see the Samaritans - the last surviving group of non-Jewish Israelites. They didn't believe in the temple in Jerusalem and had a temple of their own near modern-day Nablus. They still have priests, who they trace back to Aaron (on a chart one of the priests has) and sacrifice sheep for Passover. Where else can you find this stuff.

I also saw the troops depicted carrying the menorah on the Arch of Titus. Italy's another place I'd like to go trekking for the scenery and history...

[BillyBob58]

I've heard the Masada suicide story is of questionable veracity, an interesting story in itself...Josephus was a Jewish guy who adopted Hellenized/Roman customs and citizenship, and the sole source for the Masada story (also for non-Biblical mentions of Jesus IIRC). The idea of committing suicide rather than face slavery, the line of argument went, is very badass and admirable by Roman standards, but the idea of committing suicide at all would have been abhorrent by Jewish values. However, Josephus was writing for a Roman audience and wanted to impress them with how hardcore and awesome his people were. Given that in those times, standards for writing history were somewhat different and not what would be called rigorous by today's standards, its very possible that he could have made the story up.

No doubt, as with all historians, all you have is their word for it. And I guess he might have been wanting to impress his (now) fellow Romans( Flavius Josephus) with how much valor his people had. Then again, his people did not exist any more. They had not really been a sovereign nation for 600 years (since Nebuchadnezzar), but now they were not even a Roman province. I believe it was about this time that Rome renamed Judea Palestine, after the Jew's ancient enemies the Philistines, as a final insult. So, I guess, what would be the point? Also, Josephus was not exactly complimentary about his people's behavior during the siege of Jerusalem. What with mothers eating their own children, for one example. But who knows, he could have made it all up. He is really the only source we have.


Of course, it could be true - just the fact that suicide for any reason is so un-Jewish led some to believe it could be made up to impress Romans.Agree. But then again, wouldn't the Romans know whether or not this happened? the Roman governor of Iudaea Lucius Flavius Silva headed the Roman legion X Fretensis and laid siege to Masada. That seems like a lot of people who would, maybe many still living 30 years later, who would know exactly what happened and be able to call him on it. But maybe most of them would have never read his account, so again, who knows?


Anyway, it's neither here nor there. The historical interest is unbelievable. Like I mentioned, tomorrow I'm going to see the Samaritans - the last surviving group of non-Jewish Israelites. They didn't believe in the temple in Jerusalem and had a temple of their own near modern-day Nablus. They still have priests, who they trace back to Aaron (on a chart one of the priests has) and sacrifice sheep for Passover. Where else can you find this stuff.Exactly! Where you gonna find this sort of stuff to this degree? AMAZING! I really hope I get to do another trip to Israel one of these days. Though I'll probably never be blessed enough to get to walk through the land while hammock camping.


I also saw the troops depicted carrying the menorah on the Arch of Titus. Italy's another place I'd like to go trekking for the scenery and history...We crossed the Appian Way a few times. How would that be to trek on that, if it is allowed? Also, how strange would it be to be allowed to sleep in or near the ruins of Pompeii? But FOR ME, Israel beats them all, and for so many different reasons. Reasons other than just history. Thanks again for posting this thread!

[Cannibal]

Let's stay on topic about the hike. The history is fantastic, but very debatable and dangerous territory.

I visited those lands in the late 70s and early 80s. I bet hiking it is an amazingly better way to see the area. But so many nights on the ground? Think I'll live vicariously thru your pictures.

Cannibal; aka: Moshe

[jbphilly]

Let's stay on topic about the hike. The history is fantastic, but very debatable and dangerous territory.
Tell me about it - all that intense stuff is an inevitable part of this trail, which is good for people to know. Everything is political here, everything! That's part of the reason I could never live here. The other reason is the summer heat - DO NOT come in summer. Best not to come except between December and April. Late February to early April is the best time for the hike by far, really the only time.



I visited those lands in the late 70s and early 80s. I bet hiking it is an amazingly better way to see the area. But so many nights on the ground? Think I'll live vicariously thru your pictures.

Cannibal; aka: Moshe

I was actually quite fine on the ground, though I'm still much happier now that I'm hanging. Part of it was that the desert days are so long and exhausting that you fall asleep instantly whereever you're lying - you have to reach the night camp or town where water is available, so you HAVE to push on, and most of the days include multiple extremely grueling climbs. It's easier in the north, and the luxury of hammocking is even better.

[jbphilly]

An update - just finished the trail. In the non-desert sections, I was able to hammock all but a handful of nights (of those we didn't sleep in beds provided by hospitable people) and the ones I couldn't, I could have if I had a halfway decent suspension (that'll be the first thing to switch out before my next hike).

Can't recommend this trail more. Give it some thought - you'll love it.

[lazy river road]

An update - just finished the trail. In the non-desert sections, I was able to hammock all but a handful of nights (of those we didn't sleep in beds provided by hospitable people) and the ones I couldn't, I could have if I had a halfway decent suspension (that'll be the first thing to switch out before my next hike).

Can't recommend this trail more. Give it some thought - you'll love it.

Man what a great trip this sounds like...I cant wait to see some pics

[Doctari]

D**N!!!! Yet another thing to add to my bucket list.

:D


Oh well, I'll have to live to be 150 just to hike the trails I want to do, so one more really won't matter that much. :lol:

Nice pictures & great report!!

[MedicineMan]

I've known of this trail but too little it seams. Your pics were wonderful. Thank you for posting...any fears being that area? or is that too political a question for the mods?

[Cannibal]

...any fears being that area? or is that too political a question for the mods?
Not so far. ;)
It's a legit question.

[jbphilly]

If you do your homework ahead of time and are aware of what's going on and use common sense and so forth, you shouldn't need to be afraid of being in this part of the world. Things have been quite safe here for the last few years. BUT, things often change rapidly. Some recent political developments mean anything could happen in the coming months. But then again that's always the case.

In short, it's not significantly more dangerous than driving to work. Probably less. But you have to be aware and informed.

[MedicineMan]

'But you have to be aware and informed' and that's legit advice for about anywhere.
Thanks again for your input. Years ago I spent a summer in Egypt....honestly don't think I'd go back there; now Israel is another matter-such a huge draw there-your pics don't help :)

[WarmSoda]

I don't want to get into the history, but for geography's sake I want to mention that there is a place called Masada just east of the Dead Sea. My wife and I visited it on a day trip bus tour in 2005. Its south of the Ahava factory where all the Dead Sea salt comes from. There's a trail to the top, but also a gondola available to take people to the top. It's set up like a national park with a museum and gift shop even. :(

I can't image being in a hammock anywhere near there though, since I don't remember a single tree and, believe me, a tree would have been memorable.

Great pics and great trip report of an exotic international destination!! :)

[affreeman]

I just uploaded pictures from the desert section of the trail...

Awesome! Don't know why I just ran across this thread today.

My wife and I will be heading to Israel in October; not to hike, but we'll be bicycle touring from the Golan Heights south to Eilat. I can't wait!

[yankale]

I'm about 80% of the way through a 2 month trek from Eilat to the Lebanon border with Israel. I'd consider this a world class trail; in 1000 km it's got massive, isolated desert, biblical hills, dramatic mountains like the Carmel, Meron and the area around Jerusalem, coastal seashore, rolling hills and valleys in the Galilee, and the great rift valley (here, it's the Sea of Galilee and the Jordan Valley). In spring, it's mild weather with green grass and brilliant wildflowers everywhere (well, not in the Negev). For the non-desert part, there are towns near the trail every day, so you never need to carry more than a day's worth of food.

Anyway, just thought I'd spread the word about the trail since I've enjoyed it so much. Hammockers may despair at the fact that 40% of it is in a desert where hammocking is impossible, but I've successfully hung on the other 60% and I didn't mind sleeping under a tarp for three weeks in the desert.

Selling points - it's a beautiful trail, which takes you through hugely different landscapes in a small distance, challenging but doable by most people, in a first-world country that's still quite exotic (besides all the religious and historical interest, and the variety of cultures and religions you'll encounter along the way), and quite safe - it stays within the borders of Israel proper and out the occupied territories, and the only real hazard is getting injured or dehydrated in the desert, which is easily avoided if you are prepared.

Mostly it's Israelis hiking it, but I've run into about half a dozen other Americans - including four grizzled old AT vets with 9 pound base weights (though they found it a bit rough carrying 5-6 liters of water through the desert I think). I'd go with a group if possible since you may feel left out if you're the only gentile and non-Hebrew speaker in a group you find here, but you'll meet fantastic people for sure, including "trail angels" that let hikers stay in their homes for a night (or sometimes in cabins they've prepared in their yards!). Two Americans I know who hiked it solo said they rarely slept outside, as people they met invited them to stay for the night so often.

This was the only place in the desert part of the trail where I could hammock. Unfortunately we didn't camp there. You're only supposed to (and should only) camp in designated night camps in order to protect the desert's fragile ecosystem, and none of the camps have trees you could use.


http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii152/julesdoesthemiddleeast/Israel%20Trail/IMG_8180.jpg

Anyway, check it out...it's a great trail to hike!

Hi JP :),

I'm the author of the "piss-poor...." guide. I'm glad you enjoyed the trail and the people.


I saw that you mentioned that camping in the desert is allowed only in designated places, this is very important to preserve wild life and the vegetation. I'd like also to mention that the only tree in the Ramon Crater and in the entire desert part of the INT (picture above) should not be used for hammocks but rather for shade only.

I read that you've paid $60/person for 7 caches, which is not cheap but not extremely expensive considering a jeep with a driver for a full day in the desert. I guess the price is also a matter of how large is the group. In a single ride one can cache water for probably 20 people or more. Not all 20 have to take the ride just one person from a group.

And I could not have done a better job in promoting the INT. Thanks a lot!

As to the quality of the guide I guess you had the first edition (2009). Among several other comments, I had one hiker complaining about few Welsh proverbs in the guide. One of them being:

Gorau adnabod, d'adnabod dy hun * Welsh: "The best knowledge is knowing yourself"

I'm sure that after hiking the desert for 2-3 weeks it means a lot.

Anyways we've removed all Welsh and significantly improved the quality of the maps, we've added a daily hiking profile and more. The second edition was published in early 2011 (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/9659124945/qid=1141831973/sr=1-1/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&v=glance&n=283155).


Thanks, it's a pleasure to read your posts :thumbup: