JRB Tri-Glides

[rasputen]

Did a search but did not find anything. Anyone tried the new JRB Tri-Glides? I have not done any mods on any of my hammocks. I really enjoy tying a good knot and just look at it as part of setting up a hammock camp. After seeing these I'm thinking about trying them on my Speer? What to do? Keep it simple or start the slippery slope.....

http://www.jacksrbetter.com/index_files/Tri-glides.htm

[angrysparrow]

They were first mentioned here (http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/showthread.php?p=50500#post50500), so they only were released this week. I don't think anyone has received any yet.

[rasputen]

They were first mentioned here (http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/showthread.php?p=50500#post50500), so they only were released this week. I don't think anyone has received any yet.

Thanks! Think I'll order a set and give um a whirl.....

[Shug]

Hey...... I just ordered a pair and going to try them with straps on my DIY hammock. I to use a combo of knot with 900 lb. line and nylon "tree hugging" straps.
Wonder if the slides and straps will be a quicker rig??
Shug

[rasputen]

Hey...... I just ordered a pair and going to try them with straps on my DIY hammock. I to use a combo of knot with 900 lb. line and nylon "tree hugging" straps.
Wonder if the slides and straps will be a quicker rig??
Shug

Looking forward to a post hang report on them...

[headchange4u]

I'll probably pick up a set to try out.

[FanaticFringer]

Thought of a pretty light suspension combo using the JRB Tri-Glides.
Spyderline attached to end of hammock. Then attached to one SMC ring.
Sew your polyester webbing onto the SMC ring and wrap around tree and attach to the Tri-Glide.
Of course no modifications needed with hammocks like a Speer or JRB Bridge hammock that have the correct (polyester/polypropylene) type of webbing.

[NCPatrick]

I'm waiting for mine to ship.

[Gailainne]

I find this amazing, a high rope mate of mine who specializes in engineering, oil refinery towers, tanks etc just gave me 6 stainless steel buckles that are identical to those just last week ! he and his company get them made up in batches, they use them on their decender harnesses on the leg, foot stirrups. They are ppe rated so are more than capable on handling a hammock hang.

I was going to use them to cinch up the extra webbing on my tree huggers, but using them on the bridge hammock is also a good idea.

Aint life strange :D

Stephen

[angrysparrow]

just gave me 6 stainless steel buckles that are identical to those

The slider buckles have been available (http://www.onrope1.com/store/index.php?p=product&id=42&parent=4)for climbing use for a long time in steel. I think JRB's contribution seems to be having lightweight aluminum ones made.

[warbonnetguy]

did anyone find out if theyb are anodized?

[BillyBob58]

I had been wondering if these were any dif than the cinch buckles I have from OnRope. I had not thought about using those cinch buckles in the way that JRB seems to be suggesting, but I don't see why it wouldn't work. But I guess it would be an ounce or two heavier. And stronger I imagine.

[rasputen]

Should be getting mine in a few days. Will let you know how they work out on my Speer....:)

[nickelanddime]

Like warbonnetguy I was wondering if they were anodized, also if the edges contacting the webbing were chamfered, and if the edges of the part were smooth(machined) or rough(water jet)... if the jrb's aren't anodized and chamfered my boss is up for offering some that are anodized and chamfered on the contact surface for about 10.00 per pair, we didn't figure up any bulk buys, guess he could...

[cgul1]

Got mine today in the mail. Quick turn by JRB as usual.
Initial impression is that these are great, incredibly light and seem strong, will apply the lard tail test in hammock later and repost.

Here some pictures mean while

http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery/files/9/1/2/jrbtrig_01.jpg

http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery/files/9/1/2/jrbtrig_02.jpg

http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery/files/9/1/2/jrbtrig_03.JPG

http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery/files/9/1/2/jrbtrig_04.JPG

http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery/files/9/1/2/jrbtrig_05.JPG

http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery/files/9/1/2/jrbtrig_07.jpg

[Cannibal]

Ooooooooh, those look nifty.

[rasputen]

Sweet! Thanks for the Tri-Glide eye candy! Looking forward to getting mine...

[rasputen]

Here's a question for you guys who like to crunch numbers?

Approximently how much force is exerted on these Tri-glides given a 70kg man hanging at a 30 or 35 degree angle? Is it the same as a buckle setup? Seems like it would be less? Keep in mind that I am not a math guy and probably way off? Just curious?

[NCPatrick]

I got mine today and tried to set up using one of them the way I use my cinch buckle or rings. I think it was a mistake to use them in that manner... It's better to follow the directions on the package. I got a lot of slippage and a good bit of abrasion on my straps in the process. (Pictures may follow). The corners of the triglides are pretty sharp, and I would bet that future ones might be champhered (is that a word? or bevelled, if you prefer). The slippage was similar to what I got with ring buckles unsecured with the half hitch, but since the corners were sharp, it abraded my strap.

At this point, I would read the directions carefully and see if you can use them in the intended way only.

Repeat, these did not work for me as a replacement of the cinch buckle.

I'm still trying to find a way to use them in my system. Maybe I could replace my 'biner, but otherwise don't know. I have my hammock tied with larkshead to spyderline tied with a larkshead to my cinch buckle, and the straps strung through the buckle with a 'biner on the end. If you can enlighten me as to how you would use these triglides in this system, I'm all ears.

Thanks.

ON the bright side, one triglide weighed in at .4 oz, where one cinch buckle was 1 oz. So quite a savings in weight there.

[angrysparrow]

I got mine today and tried to set up using one of them the way I use my cinch buckle or rings. I think it was a mistake to use them in that manner...

They really weren't designed to be used that way, I think. It looks like the intended use is for setups where the webbing is connected directly to the hammock end, and extends all the way to and around the support.


The corners of the triglides are pretty sharp, and I would bet that future ones might be champhered (is that a word? or bevelled, if you prefer). The slippage was similar to what I got with ring buckles unsecured with the half hitch, but since the corners were sharp, it abraded my strap.

That's really disappointing. The fit and finish of metal items that comes into contact with webbing is important.


On the bright side, one triglide weighed in at .4 oz, where one cinch buckle was 1 oz. So quite a savings in weight there.

You saved 1.2 ounces, but they didn't work....

[TiredFeet]

....

ON the bright side, one triglide weighed in at .4 oz, where one cinch buckle was 1 oz. So quite a savings in weight there.

Not if it's only added weight :rolleyes:

[NCPatrick]

Just wanted to try them out. The weight savings would have been a by-product. So -- Oh well! I should have followed the directions.

[angrysparrow]

I'm still trying to find a way to use them in my system. Maybe I could replace my 'biner, but otherwise don't know. I have my hammock tied with larkshead to spyderline tied with a larkshead to my cinch buckle, and the straps strung through the buckle with a 'biner on the end. If you can enlighten me as to how you would use these triglides in this system, I'm all ears.

For use in the way that you're talking about, it seems to me that there is a piece missing from the JRB Tri-Glides. Something like this (http://www.onrope1.com/store/index.php?p=product&id=477&parent=4) but in an appropriate size. That would allow you to tie your Spyderline to the 'outer ring' part, and connect the webbing to the Tri-Glide part for adjustment. Then, the Tri-Glide is turned sideways and slipped through the 'outer ring', where it will then hold fast.

I can envision it, but I don't know if the description is clear.

This would add weight, though. Possibly even enough to obviate the advantage.

[GrizzlyAdams]

I got mine today and tried to set up using one of them the way I use my cinch buckle or rings. I think it was a mistake to use them in that manner... It's better to follow the directions on the package. I got a lot of slippage and a good bit of abrasion on my straps in the process. (Pictures may follow). The corners of the triglides are pretty sharp, and I would bet that future ones might be champhered (is that a word? or bevelled, if you prefer). The slippage was similar to what I got with ring buckles unsecured with the half hitch, but since the corners were sharp, it abraded my strap.

At this point, I would read the directions carefully and see if you can use them in the intended way only.

Repeat, these did not work for me as a replacement of the cinch buckle.

I'm still trying to find a way to use them in my system. Maybe I could replace my 'biner, but otherwise don't know. I have my hammock tied with larkshead to spyderline tied with a larkshead to my cinch buckle, and the straps strung through the buckle with a 'biner on the end. If you can enlighten me as to how you would use these triglides in this system, I'm all ears.

Thanks.

ON the bright side, one triglide weighed in at .4 oz, where one cinch buckle was 1 oz. So quite a savings in weight there.

I'm unclear on the recommended use. My confusion might be cleared up by the answer to one question. When you thread the standing end of the webbing through the triglide to finish the connection, is the standing end pulled through the triglide from the tree side to the hammock side, or vice versa?

thanks
Grizz

[NCPatrick]

I'm unclear on the recommended use. My confusion might be cleared up by the answer to one question. When you thread the standing end of the webbing through the triglide to finish the connection, is the standing end pulled through the triglide from the tree side to the hammock side, or vice versa?

thanks
Grizz

First, thread the triglide onto your strap, then run the end of the strap around the tree and then feed the strap back through the triglide. That's how I interpreted the instructions.

[headchange4u]

.....

ON the bright side, one triglide weighed in at .4 oz, where one cinch buckle was 1 oz. So quite a savings in weight there.


If you use the Triglides the way they are supposed to be used, wouldn't it also eliminate the use of biners in the suspension system?

I will probably pick up a set of these when the 8x8 Tarp Tents become available. I do wish that the edges were beveled to reduce wear and tear on webbing.

[NCPatrick]

If you use the Triglides the way they are supposed to be used, wouldn't it also eliminate the use of biners in the suspension system?

I will probably pick up a set of these when the 8x8 Tarp Tents become available. I do wish that the edges were beveled to reduce wear and tear on webbing.

Yes, that is true, except I still like the ease of the 'biners. I suppose you'd have 2 points of adjustment (which is good, I suppose) if you did the triglides AND the cinch buckles.

[GrizzlyAdams]

First, thread the triglide onto your strap, then run the end of the strap around the tree and then feed the strap back through the triglide. That's how I interpreted the instructions.

That was the maximum likelihood estimator.

If the webbing loops around the tree once, then there isn't much in the configuration to keep the webbing positioned at the selected spot on the tree. Point of reference--if at all possible I cause my webbing to be cinched up on the tree trunk to keep it from slipping. If the webbing loops around the tree more than once to hold it in place, then if you were to make a relatively small adjustment you are changing the length on only one of the two sections of the webbing that go from glider to tree, and will need to fuss with the strap's complete circuit around the tree to adjust the lengths to be equal (you'll have to do the same fussing if it goes around only once, but that should be a little easier).

So you can finesse this issue---if indeed it is an issue---by using straps and a biner as you have before, and run the strap through triglide to biner and back to triglide. Replaces the weight of 1 oz cinch buckle with 0.4 oz triglide. But that's what you tried and it chewed up your webbing? :confused:

Grizz

[TiredFeet]

I don't understand the purpose of the JRB Tri-Glide.

Is it supposed to keep the webbing cinched to the tree?? There is no means that I can see from the pictures to attach the hammock suspension to the Tri-Glide. Only the webbing can be attached to the Tri-Glide.

From the web site instructions:
Simply thread the hammock suspension strap thru a JRB tri-glide, wrap the web strap around the selected tree and back thru the JRB tri-glide. Repeat on the other end of the hammock. Done. Adjust, if needed. To remove, simply unthread the running end of the suspension webbing. The JRB tri-glide stays in place on the web strap, ready for next use.

It sounds as if the Tri-Glide doesn't "replace" anything. It merely serves to keep the webbing cinched tight against the tree so that it doesn't slide down under the influence of gravity.

From the pictures, it looks as if the webbing would not fit through the Tri-Glide if there are loops on the ends, at least not with the regular 1" webbing I have from Strapworks (that stuff is pretty thick). The 1" Strapworks seatbelt webbing might fit with end loops. It would be more possible with the 1.5" seatbelt webbing except for the width.

So, if I'm picturing this right, you have webbing, no end loops, held on the tree with the Tri-Glide. You then have the problem of attaching the webbing to the hammock suspension, no end loop to accomplish this end. Even if there are end loops and they fit through the Tri-Glide, you then have to use the end loop for attaching the hammock suspension.

Or maybe the hammock suspension is supposed to be tied to the loop formed by the webbing around the tree.

If the Tri-Glide simply keeps the webbing cinched tight against the tree, then in my experience it simply replaces the SMC descending rings that I use on the tree hugger end loops. Same weight. At least with the SMC rings I have a means of then attaching the suspension to the rings and I have a known load bearing rating for the rings.

As I re-read the above, it occurred to me that I'm approaching this from the perspective of one that uses tree huggers and spectra/dyneema line for the hammock suspension to the tree huggers. If instead I look at it from the perspective of one that uses ONLY webbing, no rope, then I think I can understand what the Tri-Glides do. Webbing from hammock to and through Tri-Glide, then around tree, back to Tri-Glide, through Tri-Glide. Adjust. No end loops, none needed. The entire hammock suspension is composed only of webbing.

That sounds reasonable then.

But then I would be back to the problem of all that weight and bulk in using only webbing in the hammock suspension. I left that behind months ago and have no inclination to go back there, ever again. :D That's one reason I shifted to the 1.5" seat belt webbing as tree huggers - reduces bulk considerably.

[angrysparrow]

If instead I look at it from the perspective of one that uses ONLY webbing, no rope, then I think I can understand what the Tri-Glides do. Webbing from hammock to and through Tri-Glide, then around tree, back to Tri-Glide, through Tri-Glide. Adjust. No end loops, none needed. The entire hammock suspension is composed only of webbing.

That is the purpose for the Tri-Glides, as I understand their use to be. JRB uses a single ring on the end of their BMBH suspension, with a length of webbing sewn to that ring and extending out to be tied to the supports. For use with that kind of setup, the Tri-Glides are a good solution. But, for those of us that choose alternate methods, the Tri-Glides are not particularly useful.

[rasputen]

These little doodads sure have caused a big ruckus! Maybe this should be the first Hammock Video Tutorial? :p Webbing around tree and back to webbing, adjust... I think this is the answer. When I get mine maybe I can post pics of the setup..

[Peter_pan]

OK.... Although I do not understand the confusion on such a simple device I'll try to add some additional clarification for the benefit of readers who have not reviewed the use instructions either on the JRB Web site or on actual JRB Tri-Glide packaging.

First, as stated, the JRB Tri-glides are intended for use on hammocks that are using 1 inch webbing for suspension ... This means hammocks that have the webbing attached to the hammock as the standing end ... Simply install the JRB Tri-Glide on the webbing, position it at the point you would otherwise form a knot/wrapping ... take the running end around the tree and back though the JRB Tri-Glide ... Done ... If adjustment is necessary, do so as any standard tri-glide functions.

As to form and finish of the JRB Tri-Glide, by design, it is not anodized and the edges of the machining have been deburred. Anodizing would add weight, immeasurable but it does, and cost. But most importantly anodizing would reduce the coefficient of friction of the device. Likewise it is not beveled, as beveling would significantly reduce the coefficient of friction of the device in use. It is important to realize that tri-glides function as readily movable strap adjusters based on friction lock when put under load ... the four 90º angles that the double webbing passes though lock the webbing when under load. Reducing the coefficient of friction by anodizing and beveling will create more wear on webbing if, and as, it allows slippage (slippage over the edges and not the edges themselves is what caused NCPatrick’s strap wear, though this occurred because of improper use)... further, devices that allow slippage like some of the double rings etc then require a back up jam or slip knot, which the JRB Tri-Glide does not need.

Although not stated as a marketing point, the JRB decision to pursue the tri-glide approach is one that specifically negates the separation of original webbing attachment to the hammock. It likewise negates the insertion of some spider line (or other high tech small diameter, light weight, high rated line). It also negates the need for the double descender rings, single ring and girth hitch, steel rings or D-rings and frequent jam knot, and/or steel cinch buckle…. Lastly it negates the carabineer on the tree end. Thus a simple, no modification, no additional hardware, no knot, secure hanging approach that has an alternative weight savings over the other approaches of from 2-5 oz.

As a point ... The JRB Tri-Glides can actually be employed with zero weight penalties over even a straight webbing suspension. Commonly, these are 10 foot in length. Both the Speer wrap and the Hennessy lashing take between 24-30 inches to make … Thus use of the JRB Tri-Glide will provide equivalent suspension for 2 feet less webbing. And, our measurements of polyester webbing found this saved 14 grams of webbing while employing a 13 gram JRB Tri-Glide.

Hope this additional information clarifies the use, design goals and achievements of the JRB Tri-Glides.

Pan

[rasputen]

Got um in the mail this afternoon. Here are a couple of quick pics of them in action with my Speer Hammock.. They hold great and are very easy to use and adjust. Enjoy...

[cgul1]

Looks good
Where's the snow?
I might go around the tree again, but it doesn't look necessary, looks like it will have to be the weekend
thanks for the pix

[NCPatrick]

OK.... Although I do not understand the confusion on such a simple device I'll try to add some additional clarification for the benefit of readers who have not reviewed the use instructions either on the JRB Web site or on actual JRB Tri-Glide packaging.

<snip>Reducing the coefficient of friction by anodizing and beveling will create more wear on webbing if, and as, it allows slippage (slippage over the edges and not the edges themselves is what caused NCPatrick’s strap wear, though this occurred because of improper use)... further, devices that allow slippage like some of the double rings etc then require a back up jam or slip knot, which the JRB Tri-Glide does not need.<snip>

Pan

Ok, the improper use was freely admitted on my part :o.

On the other hand, for those of us using the spyderline to attach the hammock to cinch or ring buckles and then attaching that to a strap, it takes some thought.

I took my strap, and turned it around so the loop that was previously holding the 'biner at the end was instead close to the hammock, I ran my spyderline as a larkshead through the loop. Then took the open end of the strap, put the triglide on it, and used as directed. I've now gotten rid of the cinch buckle AND the 'biner.

Time will tell how long my strap loop will last with the pressure of the 2.8 Spyderline in it, but it looks like it'll be fine. Just a thought.

[tomsawyer222]

Well you could make something like the tri glide for regular rope... but you just have a biner on the end of your rope and something that slides along the rope its self that has a catch ring

[rasputen]

Looks good
Where's the snow?
I might go around the tree again, but it doesn't look necessary, looks like it will have to be the weekend
thanks for the pix


This is Tennessee! Snow here today and gone tomorrow? My kids are sick and missed what little snow we recieved yesterday?:(


The hammock set up was temporary and for pic purposes only. I did lay in it to test slippage(210lbs). There wasen't any. They function exactly as I imagined and I look forward to using them on my next trip.

[Peter_pan]

Ok, the improper use was freely admitted on my part :o.

On the other hand, for those of us using the spyderline to attach the hammock to cinch or ring buckles and then attaching that to a strap, it takes some thought.

I took my strap, and turned it around so the loop that was previously holding the 'biner at the end was instead close to the hammock, I ran my spyderline as a larkshead through the loop. Then took the open end of the strap, put the triglide on it, and used as directed. I've now gotten rid of the cinch buckle AND the 'biner.

Time will tell how long my strap loop will last with the pressure of the 2.8 Spyderline in it, but it looks like it'll be fine. Just a thought.

NCPatrick

Sounds like you cut 5-6 oz out by removing the 2 cinch buckles and 2 biners...not bad eh? ( Hi Turk, if you are reading).

BTW, you can eliminate the spyder line too if your loop is small enough to cinch up inboard of the hammock knot.... just a thought...

Pan

[nickelanddime]

actually anodizing exagerates surface imperfections making it rougher, to get a smooth slick part it has to start out either highly polished or undergo electrochemical "brightening". My suggestion of anodizing was on the basis that aluminum naturally oxidizes black and when handled those oxides easily sweat off even if you don't have deet or r-326 on your hands. As far as cost, a professional batch loading shop runs about $50 a batch for standard clear coat breaking down to $.5 a part. If milled out even in small run quantities that makes it about $4-6 a pair, if water jetted $2-4. I'm not familiar with packaging costs but I assume in either case with standard 100% mark up your price wouldn't change from $12.
The effects of pressure risers whether they are sharp edges or have a .03 radius could be debated for quite awhile since they are acting on a material in a plastic state, but you could look the hardware thread and see that people are getting away with chamfers absurdly seeming to push in excess of .1
I offered the anodizing and chamfering solely because I saw an arena that still didn't have quite what I was looking for and wanted other people to know that their options aren't so limited, nothing against JRB, you guys are great.

[NCPatrick]

NCPatrick

Sounds like you cut 5-6 oz out by removing the 2 cinch buckles and 2 biners...not bad eh? ( Hi Turk, if you are reading).

BTW, you can eliminate the spyder line too if your loop is small enough to cinch up inboard of the hammock knot.... just a thought...

Pan

I did cut about 3.2 oz out this way. The 'biner and cinch buckle together weighed exactly 2 oz (x 2!). Then add back in the .8 oz (combined weight) of the triglides. Did I add that correctly?

I'll have to take a look at getting rid of the spyderline. I'm not in any hurry to do so yet. Old habits die hard.

Here are some pictures, fwiw.

[bredler]

"I do not understand the confusion on such a simple device"


agreed.:eek:

[NCPatrick]

Originally Posted by Peter_pan http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/images/buttons/viewpost.gif (http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/showthread.php?p=51351#post51351)
"I do not understand the confusion on such a simple device"

agreed.:eek:

I don't see anything strange or unusual about it, for reasons already given.

[speyguy]

I recieved my glides today and they were as described and appear to be a good product. Unfortunately, like NCPartick, I was hoping that the glide would function like ring buckles as I much prefer that method. I have a loop on one end of my straps, then I like to put the strap around the tree, thru the loop and attach the end of the strap to the ring buckles. Ring buckles are on about a 16" long piece of 1" webbing connected to the end of the hammock. I found that the tri glide can function this way if after I run the webbing thru the glide I do a couple of hitches back on the webbing strap. It's a really easy to set up, easy to adjust system. I may try a set of these (http://www.onrope1.com/store/index.php?p=product&id=148&parent=29) instead. But they seem pretty heavy.


If the webbing loops around the tree once, then there isn't much in the configuration to keep the webbing positioned at the selected spot on the tree.

Bingo! That's what I found as well. So with a tri glide type of buckle, I found that I wanted to wrap the strap around the tree more than once so it does not slip down the tree, thereby making any needed adjustment a little more cumbersome. At that point, I found it was probably just as easy to untie/re-tie the straps with a conventional knotting and save the weight of the buckles. If you think you will be satisfied with only wrapping the webbing around the tree once as in Rasputens photos, then they work great.

[BillyBob58]

First, thread the triglide onto your strap, then run the end of the strap around the tree and then feed the strap back through the triglide. That's how I interpreted the instructions.

Could the original cinch buckles from Onrope be used in the same fashion that you are supposed to use the tri-glides?

[angrysparrow]

Could the original cinch buckles from Onrope be used in the same fashion that you are supposed to use the tri-glides?

Yes. The inner sliding portion would wind up one one side, but that would only tighten the hold on the webbing.

I don't understand why you'd want to use one in that manner, though. Do you have a specific weight saving application in mind?

[rasputen]

Bingo! That's what I found as well. So with a tri glide type of buckle, I found that I wanted to wrap the strap around the tree more than once so it does not slip down the tree, thereby making any needed adjustment a little more cumbersome. At that point, I found it was probably just as easy to untie/re-tie the straps with a conventional knotting and save the weight of the buckles. If you think you will be satisfied with only wrapping the webbing around the tree once as in Rasputens photos, then they work great.

Argument noted. Hummm, I'm going to time myself in the next couple of days trying this with the Tri-Glides and with the improved (Risk's) 4 wrap. I will attempt to prove that a double wrap with the Tri-Glides is just as quick or quicker as with the 4 wrap. This is only for fun and I really don't care much about time when I'm out in gods country! Unless of course it's raining buckets!! :) FWIW: I never double wrap the HH tree huggers? Quess I have been extremely lucky?

[Peter_pan]

I recieved my glides today and they were as described and appear to be a good product. Unfortunately, like NCPartick, I was hoping that the glide would function like ring buckles as I much prefer that method. I have a loop on one end of my straps, then I like to put the strap around the tree, thru the loop and attach the end of the strap to the ring buckles. Ring buckles are on about a 16" long piece of 1" webbing connected to the end of the hammock. I found that the tri glide can function this way if after I run the webbing thru the glide I do a couple of hitches back on the webbing strap. It's a really easy to set up, easy to adjust system. I may try a set of these (http://www.onrope1.com/store/index.php?p=product&id=148&parent=29) instead. But they seem pretty heavy.



Bingo! That's what I found as well. So with a tri glide type of buckle, I found that I wanted to wrap the strap around the tree more than once so it does not slip down the tree, thereby making any needed adjustment a little more cumbersome. At that point, I found it was probably just as easy to untie/re-tie the straps with a conventional knotting and save the weight of the buckles. If you think you will be satisfied with only wrapping the webbing around the tree once as in Rasputens photos, then they work great.

Speyguy, et al.

I have been wraping one and ahalf around trees for years..... As long as you do the Speer wrap, Hennessy lashing or JRB Tri-glide about 6-10 from the tree.... All you have to do to raise or lower the point of attachment to the tree is untension the line by an inchor more, loosen the tree wrap an slide all up or down the tree, retension the line .... done...

As to the weight of buckles.... I agree that all the steel buckles being used/tried have a weight penalty.... The JRB Tri-glide actually reduces weight if you eliminate the length of webing needed to form the two knots most commonly used.... These take 24-30 inches of webbing to form properly....Conservatively, 24 inches of polyester webbing weighs 14 grams and the JRB Tri-Glide only weighs 13 oz.... So overal the sysystem with an average of 8 ft straps vs the more common 10 foot straps is 2 grams lighter...Arguably no big deal but it is clearly a fact that the JRB Tri-glides weigh less than the webbing used to make the knots....Over the other devices, several ozs savings is possible ( See NCPatrich recent comments above).

To adjust the length of line.... Simply push the ends of webbing in to the center, this forms a center loop, slide the JRB Tri-Glideto the desired new position, retighten the webbing to the flat postion... Done.... normal time with practice... 5-15 seconds..... Even the most practiced of us need 25-45 seconds to untie the Speer or Hennessy lashing, change length, and retie it.
YMMV.

[gibmo]

Would this work? If this has already been described, sorry. I'm a visual thinker and have to see it to understand most times. The strap would pass through a ring on a bridge type hammock or a loop in the suspension strap/line on other style hammocks then through tri-glide. The loop at the tree would prevent sliding.

http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj217/migib/glide.jpg

[GrizzlyAdams]

Would this work? If this has already been described, sorry. I'm a visual thinker and have to see it to understand most times. The strap would pass through a ring on a bridge type hammock or a loop in the suspension strap/line on other style hammocks then through tri-glide. The loop at the tree would prevent sliding.

http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj217/migib/glide-1.jpg

yep. That's exactly what I had in mind when I asked NCPatrick which direction the free end was pointing once you'd strapped up.

Grizz

[cgul1]

Well it warmed up a few degrees and the snow melted a bit, so I was able to test hang the tri glides.
I tied a couple of Speer 1 inch Webbing, Polypropylene straps to my Claytor NONET HAMMOCK.
Easy to adjust, works as advertised, no slippage ~250 lbs. I had the hammock pulled tight and got in and out several times and gentle bounce etc.
first time using straps, this is quick and easy. I will probably put caribiners on the other ends next so I can use the straps on other hammocks.

[slowhike]

Would this work? If this has already been described, sorry. I'm a visual thinker and have to see it to understand most times. The strap would pass through a ring on a bridge type hammock or a loop in the suspension strap/line on other style hammocks then through tri-glide. The loop at the tree would prevent sliding.

http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj217/migib/glide.jpg

i like the looks of that set up.
it would allow you to readjust the tightness from under your tarp when it's raining.

[Schneiderlein]

i like the looks of that set up.
it would allow you to readjust the tightness from under your tarp when it's raining.

...and if you added a biner, you would not even have to thread the webbing through the tri-glide every time.

[BillyBob58]

Yes. The inner sliding portion would wind up one one side, but that would only tighten the hold on the webbing.

I don't understand why you'd want to use one in that manner, though. Do you have a specific weight saving application in mind?

Mainly, I was just curious. But, I'm thinking it could be used with my stock Speer, with it's stock webbing, without having to make any alterations. I might play with the cinch buckles in this fashion this weekend.

[speyguy]

For all you that have now tested your glides, after you spent time in the hammock and everything tightened up, what are your thoughts on the ease of loosing the buckles?

[NCPatrick]

For all you that have now tested your glides, after you spent time in the hammock and everything tightened up, what are your thoughts on the ease of loosing the buckles?

Spent a lot of time in the hammock this evening with the tri-glides on. It's very easy to adjust even after a lot of weight. The easiest way I found to adjust was to lean it to one side, feed the strap through, then lean it to the other side to continue the strap adjustment on the other side. Easy. I like them so far.

[slowhike]

...and if you added a biner, you would not even have to thread the webbing through the tri-glide every time.

yep, that's what i was thinking. to me the convenience the biners provide outweigh the small weight penalty.

[BurningCedar]

I got to use my JRB Tri-Glides last night (in the garage rather than the field unfortunately). Overall they worked very well.

PLUS: Very light, small, and inexpensive compared to other solutions. Moderately easy to adjust (more on that later). Didn't slip at all during the night.

CONS: Not quite as easy to adjust as SMC rings.

Because of the friction between the buckles and two lengths of straps, these aren't the easiest to adjust after you've pulled them tight. That may also be a result of my lack of experience with the Tri-Glides. However I found a workaround that seemed to make this easier. Rather than pull the running end tightly through the Tri-Glide, I leave a loop. The loop leaves me a hand-hold to easily pull the whole thing either looser or tighter one slot at a time (rather than having to pull the strap simultaneously through both slots). WARNING: I don't know if the loop will lower the weight that can be safely supported by the Tri-Glides. I survived one night (using a crash pad) with no slippage; but YMMV.

BOTTOM LINE: I really like the benefits of this solution and plan to continue using them. Next test will be to see how they work with the thicker Strapworks straps.

Here's a photo showing what I mean about the loop described above:

[cgul1]

BC,
that is interesting.
on the surface, I would think that with enough weight (like mine) the loop would close, but really the loop is in the non weighted side and still provides the same points of contact (friction) to hold.
so pulling on the loop alone assists in adjustment(?) trying to picture this coming off the tree etc
I will have to play with this next weekend Hocking Hills with the Scouts....:D

[BurningCedar]

BC,
that is interesting.
on the surface, I would think that with enough weight (like mine) the loop would close, but really the loop is in the non weighted side and still provides the same points of contact (friction) to hold.
so pulling on the loop alone assists in adjustment(?) trying to picture this coming off the tree etc
I will have to play with this next weekend Hocking Hills with the Scouts....:D

I had the same concern; I weigh in at 200 pounds but (for at least the one night) I didn't have any problems with slippage. Its kinda hard to describe the adjustments in words. Assuming you have a single web strap attached to your hammock and looped around a tree:

TO TIGHTEN THE STRAP: pull the loose loop TOWARDS your hammock. Once you have it where you want it, you can make the loop smaller by pulling the LOOSE END of the strap TOWARDS the hammock. That will make the loop smaller; but make sure to leave enough loop loose in case you need to make further adjustments.

TO LOOSEN THE STRAP: pull the loose loop AWAY from the hammock to make the loop larger (this will give us enough "play" for the next step). Next grasp the strap between the Tri-Glide and the tree and pull. This will make the loop smaller and add slack to the overall suspension.

Basically, the idea is to require that you pull webbing through only one Tri-Glide slot at a time (cutting in half the amount of friction you have to overcome).


p.s. I just finished a very quick test using the Tri-Glide with the Strapworks 1-inch poly webbing (NOT the seat belt variety). The Strapworks stuff is thicker than the webbing used by JRB on the Bridge hammock. Its possible to just barely fit the Strapsworks webbing into the Tri-Glide; but because of the greater thickness it is very hard to adjust it -- even with the technique described above.

[cgul1]

Ahhh, got it, thanks!!

[speyguy]

I tried Slowhikes method and liked it a lot better! But I really like the convenience and ease you get with the rings or a cinch buckle. But, I couldn't get past the heavier weight issue of the buckles. I went back and read a lot of posts on this site regarding the rings and it seems like everyone throws in a slip not when using the rings so I figured I could use the tri glides in the same fashion and gain a substancial weight savings over rings or cinch buckles. Seems to work great. But if they fail and I fall on my butt, I'll be sure to keep it to myself as always.;)

photo 1 (http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery/showimage.php?i=2870&catid=member&imageuser=120)
photo 2 (http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery/showimage.php?i=2869&catid=member&imageuser=120)

[slowhike]

I tried Slowhikes method and liked it a lot better! But I really like the convenience and ease you get with the rings or a cinch buckle. But, I couldn't get past the heavier weight issue of the buckles. I went back and read a lot of posts on this site regarding the rings and it seems like everyone throws in a slip not when using the rings so I figured I could use the tri glides in the same fashion and gain a substancial weight savings over rings or cinch buckles. Seems to work great. But if they fail and I fall on my butt, I'll be sure to keep it to myself as always.;)

photo 1 (http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery/showimage.php?i=2870&catid=member&imageuser=120)
photo 2 (http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery/showimage.php?i=2869&catid=member&imageuser=120)

no, please don't keep it to your self, we need to know if it doesn't work:)

[GrizzlyAdams]

I tried Slowhikes method and liked it a lot better! But I really like the convenience and ease you get with the rings or a cinch buckle. But, I couldn't get past the heavier weight issue of the buckles. I went back and read a lot of posts on this site regarding the rings and it seems like everyone throws in a slip not when using the rings so I figured I could use the tri glides in the same fashion and gain a substancial weight savings over rings or cinch buckles. Seems to work great. But if they fail and I fall on my butt, I'll be sure to keep it to myself as always.;)

photo 1 (http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery/showimage.php?i=2870&catid=member&imageuser=120)
photo 2 (http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery/showimage.php?i=2869&catid=member&imageuser=120)

That's interesting. But isn't that the same thing that NCPatrick tried and found that a sharp edge on the tri-glide pretty much abraided his webbing? That edge would have to be one that isn't touched by webbing under recommended use....so it seems would be the bottom edge of the center stem. :confused:

Grizz

[Peter_pan]

Good point Grizz...

The key to avoiding wear on a strap is to avoid all friction ... if it moves a little, under load.... and, thus you need or use a jam/slip knot you are risking wear....

That said, all hangers should inspect there respective systems daily and replace any item showing wear....

Pan

[NCPatrick]

When I tried it, I would have had to tie a stopper half-hitch to keep the straps from slipping. I didn't, my straps slipped, the Tri-glide abraded my strap all the way down where it slipped. YMMV.

I've been using them as directed for a week now. [My setup (moving from the middle out) is Spyderline from the body of the hammock to the loops in either strap, ridgeline also to the loops, triglides on the strap.] Slept one night, and sat and bounced around many afternoons with them. So far so good. They're very easy to adjust.

If you wanted to be able to remove the straps more easily, you could fit a 'biner in between the Spyderline and the strap loops, but that would add the 'biner weight back in.

[speyguy]

no, please don't keep it to your self, we need to know if it doesn't work:)

I was joking. I'll let you know.


That's interesting. But isn't that the same thing that NCPatrick tried and found that a sharp edge on the tri-glide pretty much abraided his webbing? That edge would have to be one that isn't touched by webbing under recommended use....so it seems would be the bottom edge of the center stem.

Grizz

If I'm reading and understanding NCPatrick correctly, he said he "would have had" to try a slipnot but "didn't". Thus, he got slippage.

And if I'm understanding Pan correctly, he is saying that if you don't have slippage, then you shouldn't have a wear issue? It would be like if I took a knife and pushed the edge of the blade up against something. Not much happens. But when I slide the blade or use a slicing motion then the damage occurs.

But having said that, the sharp edge on the tri glide was a concern for me, so I took the edge off slightly (very slightly) with a file. That's why I say, if it fails I'll report back, but intial testing was good and I think it will be fine, and weighs less than rings or buckles. There's certainly more than one way to use the glides.

[angrysparrow]

It would be like if I took a knife and pushed the edge of the blade up against something. Not much happens. But when I slide the blade or use a slicing motion then the damage occurs.

I'm not sure who sharpens your knives, but I keep mine sharp enough to do repeated push cuts...so I'm afraid the anaology falls down on that point.

But yes, you're right that corner of the buckle should not be sharp enough to abrade webbing without motion under pressure.

[NCPatrick]

When I was having to tie slip knots (using the rings) every once in a while the knot would slip in between the rings, making it very hard to untie. I switched to the cinch buckles to avoid that. (but whatever, do what works for ya).

[speyguy]

I may yet try the cinch buckles, I've used the rings and on occasion had the same thing happen that you are talking about. But I bought the tri-glides and dammit, :rolleyes: I'm using them. At least for now. I just know that the way they may have been intended for use was not for me. YMMV.

[jlb2012]

NCPatrick - have you ever tried a single ring with a girth hitch knot? Its not too bad - a little harder to adjust but reasonable IMO

[NCPatrick]

Hi HOI, I think Just Jeff was using that method up at Mt. Rogers. Did you get a look at his setup there? Thanks, btw.


Originally Posted by speyguy:
I just know that the way they may have been intended for use was not for me. YMMV.

I hear ya. Seems like everyone has different setups going on these days. It's all good.

[jlb2012]

One thought I had wrt using the Tri-Glides was that threading the strap though the TG would be easier with a diagonal cut on the end of the strap - however not actually having seen these TGs I am unsure how difficult it is to thread without the diagonal cut - what is the opinion of the folks who have these TGs already?

[NCPatrick]

I've had no trouble doubling up the straps (out, around the tree, back through) in the tg's, even without a diagonal cut.

[slowhike]

a diagonal cut on the end of the webbing makes threading any buckle like that easier.
i cut & heat all my pack straps at an angle for that reason.

[cgul1]

One thought I had wrt using the Tri-Glides was that threading the strap though the TG would be easier with a diagonal cut on the end of the strap - however not actually having seen these TGs I am unsure how difficult it is to thread without the diagonal cut - what is the opinion of the folks who have these TGs already?

Yep, that occurred to me last time I set up in cold temps. was not an issue warm. Thanks for reminding me to do this.:cool:

[Peter_pan]

HOI, et al,

A diagonal cut on the end definately make treading the running end of the strap easier.

Now how to cut.... preferably use a hot pressure cut.... second preference is use a hot knife to cut.... last preference is to cut, then singe the edge with a flame (this approch seals the webbing but often leaves "bulb of hot melt". So use just enough heat and don't over do if you take this approach.)

Pan

[speyguy]

I'm not sure who sharpens your knives, but I keep mine sharp enough to do repeated push cuts...so I'm afraid the anaology falls down on that point.

Sounds like you keep them sharp enough to split hairs!

[Shug]

I have the Tri-Glides and really like them. Switched to using webbing over the old tried and true over and under knot. Either way is terrific but the webbing makes things a bit easier so far. Fun to have all these options!
Shug

[Hack]

The Tri-Glides seem to have been out for a while. For those who are using them as per the instructions, how many wraps around the tree with your straps? I'm wondering about slippage if the strap is only run around the tree and back to the Tri-Glide as shown in the pictures in this thread.

[angrysparrow]

For those who are using them as per the instructions, how many wraps around the tree with your straps? I'm wondering about slippage if the strap is only run around the tree and back to the Tri-Glide as shown in the pictures in this thread.

In every situation that I've used webbing, just once around the tree is sufficient, as shown in the pics. There's no need to wrap the tree multiple times.

[Redtail]

It would seem to me there is a design limitation that you can't wrap around the tree more than once, not without losing the ability for adjustment. I don't have any so I am trying to picture the process in my head, which has been known to differ from reality quite often...

[DGrav]

At Pan's suggestion I have wrapped around the tree twice if the tree is smaller than 8" diameter

[Redtail]

And how did you adjust it? It seems to me that design requires the webbing to move around the tree as you shorten/lengthen the suspension, and doing so would be difficult if you are wrapped around the tree multiple times.

[DGrav]

And how did you adjust it? It seems to me that design requires the webbing to move around the tree as you shorten/lengthen the suspension, and doing so would be difficult if you are wrapped around the tree multiple times.

All I had to do was loosen the strap and shift the excess around the tree in the appropriate direction (towards the tri-glide to tighten/shorten the strap and towards the hammock to loosen/lengthen the strap)

[Shug]

I have the tri-glides and love 'em......
Shug

[warbonnetguy]

redtail, it seems to me that it probably has alot to do with how you hang. i can see un-cinched webbing slipping down the tree if you hang with lots of sag, with your suspension ropes at a steep angle, which is how you would likely hang a hammock without a ridgeline. now if you do have a ridgeline and you crank things moderately tight, with a flatter suspension angle, the ropes aren't pulling down so much as out, and slippage would probably be less likely.

that being said, way back when i started hanging, i would setup my hh without fully cinching the trunk, and from what i remember, i was pulling things pretty tight, and there were times my straps slid down the tree under my weight. i later switched to fully cinching the tree and have never had that happen.

[RTR]

OK so I am a total cheap skate. I love to try and do things better than what you can buy and very frequently find myself paying more than I would have had I just went and bought the darn things. Even thought they mostly "MOSTLY" work better or comparable to said retail jobbies :D However this time I found that I was able todo so and get the same results myself. I was a big rock climber way back and had an old beat up harness that I would use for tiny folk that would like to come with and try climbing out. I since have bailed on rope climbing and like to just boulder some when I go camping in southern Utah. So I took a pair of scissors to the old rag and cut out the "Cinch buckles that where used to adjust the leg straps of the harness. I used these just like the JBR Tri-glides however I have a brand new Clark UL and found that I really didn't want to mess with the ropes just yet. So here is a quick explanation of what I used the second time I slept in her this weekend to make adjustments easier. Remember I am totally new here so this is my first few setups and tired very quickly of the unadjustable knots used to hang with. (i.e the Bowman's Knot) Clark's' use rope rather than webbing coming off the hammock body. So I tie the reg Bowman's at the end or any where along its length threw a loop at the end of my strap. I then slid the cinch buckle threw my strap from the unlooped end. I then take that free end and put it threw a biner attached to my tree strap loop for easy slide due to the abrasiveness of the tree strap. (A biner is needed for longevity of both the tree strap and webbing used. I tried it with out the biner the first go and found almost immediately when I tensioned the webbing that it frayed some at the edges and the webbing didn't want to slide easily) I come back down the strap to the buckle and thread it back threw and pull to the right tension. Easy peasy. This setup is far from any different than anyone else's however some are questioning the ability it has to hold proper like. From my days of climbing the best way to prevent any slippage, with this type of buckle, is, you are suppose to come back over the outside and middle spline and threw that last opening and back up the webbing. (Even if this wasn't done I found absolutely no slippage, but I also like to sleep with no worries) So the safety step can be completed as a last step after you made sure your hang angle and hight are correct. This will completely lock the strap in place with no fear of slippage. Now I only need to cut the excess off my rope to really make the whole setup neat and tidy like. I am really questioning doing this because I have about 11 feet of rope attached to the hammock and about 8 feet of strap(doubled up it is 8 Ft.) This gives me, with the ability to tie the Bowman's in my hammock rope anywhere I need and then use the strap for adjustments for just about any situation imaginable. Shoot if the trees are 50' apart I am almost still good to hang. NOTE: However when I tried to hang with the most webbing and rope available I went straight to the dirt, but you get what I am throwing down this will be the way I roll from here on out. Endless options. I don't think i will cut my rope until I am sure I have my kit dialed. Hope this helps anyone with questions about the ability these little suckers have for holding power. I figure if I can take a 10-15 foot whipper off a wall and these are the only things holding me in my harness, I am darn sure they will hold solid for just hanging around.
Price for this setup=Free
I had everything I needed at home from stuff laying around. Yeah I may have killed a harness but I would not let anyone use that thing anymore she has seen better days and will now live on instead of being tucked away in a dark closet. The webbing I used from old ratchet straps for holding down motorcycles with a tensile strength of 400 Lbs. These are the only thing I question as far as the ability to hold my bum (165lbs.)

Anyone have specs/formula on what the weight applied to these straps may be for a lump like myself?