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View Full Version : Video: The Making of a GrizzBridge (part 2) Endcap Origami



GrizzlyAdams
04-24-2011, 12:31
The thread on part one of the series is here (http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/showthread.php?t=31986).

Part two of the series spends a remarkable 15+ minutes talking about making an endcap! Almost as long as it takes to actually make it and sew it in. Closes with the webbing being sewn in, so the video ends with a completed hammock body, sans suspension or bugnet....so there'll be more...

Note in passing...if you don't intend to sew a bugnet to the top of the endcap, then
a different type of endcap such as the one demonstrated by hangnout is bound to be easier.
There are lots of ways of skinning the endcap cat.

4-xPeUgAUWQ

Dutch
04-24-2011, 12:49
I finally know how to make and end cap now. Thanks Grizz.

moski
04-24-2011, 14:07
You are the fastest around here Dutch :D
Now, i will have look at this video in peace :D

Walking Bear
04-24-2011, 14:39
That end cap looks a lot better than my first one.
Thanks for the info.

Cranky Bear
04-24-2011, 16:42
Great stuff again Grizz, very interesting to see how one (close to mine) is made! Here's hoping this series of videos is still up when I figure out how to sew!

AScott
04-24-2011, 17:02
Wow, this looks like quite an undertaking. Maybe I'll stick to a gather end for my first DIY hammock. I'm not sure I can wrap my mind around this without seeing one of these in person. Maybe someone will have one if I ever make it to one of the group hangs.

GrizzlyAdams
04-25-2011, 00:47
I finally know how to make an end cap now. Thanks Grizz.
you might suspect this whole series is to teach you how to make a bridge hammock Dutch.... :laugh: .... seriously though I imagine most guys that have made bridge hammocks have had some unpleasant surprises with their first endcap attempts.


That end cap looks a lot better than my first one.
Thanks for the info.
no surprise, see above! My first one was off by at least an inch...


Great stuff again Grizz, very interesting to see how one (close to mine) is made! Here's hoping this series of videos is still up when I figure out how to sew!
Yep, this one is very very close in design to yours. Now at least you know where the various odd seams are coming from.


Wow, this looks like quite an undertaking. Maybe I'll stick to a gather end for my first DIY hammock. I'm not sure I can wrap my mind around this without seeing one of these in person. Maybe someone will have one if I ever make it to one of the group hangs.

Sometimes when I see a knot I don't know done on video I don't really "get it" without actually trying. Big picture-wise this endcap design is really simple. I went through many details because I've found that the ones I highlight matter overall to the tidiness of the end product. I suspect that someone trying this out for the first time, making reference to what I tried to explain would have a serious of "ah ha" moments as he got to a step, had a question about it, saw what the video said, and then got the point.

Also there are easier ways to make endcaps, search on posts by hangnout. The main reason I went with this style on this hammock is that it is going to get a full zipped in bugnet. That means the bugnet gets attached directly to the end cap, that means the edge of the endcap between corners needs to be straight, that means you have to somehow deal with the arc length issue.
If you did without a bugnet or did a cocoon wrap-around bugnet or hangnout's bugnet, you can a simpler design.

Old River Rat
04-25-2011, 06:01
Are you creating a hammock, or, are you creating art? Amazing so far.

silentorpheus
04-25-2011, 08:54
When you get to the part where you're laying out the fabric to cut, you mention quickly in passing that the depth of the endcap is 17.5" - is this yet another of those figured out by trial and error measurements, or based on some data that you didn't discuss?

GrizzlyAdams
04-25-2011, 11:01
When you get to the part where you're laying out the fabric to cut, you mention quickly in passing that the depth of the endcap is 17.5" - is this yet another of those figured out by trial and error measurements, or based on some data that you didn't discuss?

good question! There is a method to that particular bit 'o madness.

I know how wide the hammock body is going to be under the head spreader bar. I think of that width as the arc length of a parabola. I know how wide the spreader bar is. Imagine a graph where a parabola centered at (0,0) and opening up is super-imposed with a straight horizontal line y=H where H, the height of that line is unknown. The points where that line intersects the parabola are (-18,H) and (18,H). This reflects the interpretation that the horizontal line is the spreader bar, 36" wide.

We also know that the arc-length of the parabola that arcs down from (-18,H) to (0,0) and then back up to (18,H) is the width of the hammock body, e.g., 54" inches. There is only one parabola that satisfies all these conditions, and once one computes its coefficient a for the form y = a*x^2
you can figure out what H is.

For the hammock widths in the general length I've been cutting, that H is in the neighborhood of 17.5 - 18.5 inches, depending.

BTW, once I have the height H, this determines the width of the hammock at the foot..... I know the spreader bar distance, here 26" and I want the same height H for the endcap there, so from that I compute the coefficient of _that_ parabola (which is different) and from that compute the arc-length.

you asked.... :scared:

Trout
04-26-2011, 11:34
I loved the last thing you said - the quality goes in before the label goes on.

I didn't expect the endcap to go on before rolling the long edge, but it makes perfect sense.

I love to see a professional artist doing his thing.

tpkanu
04-26-2011, 11:36
Put one leg of a framing square on the end mark of spreader bar and the other leg of the framing square on the end mark of the arc length. Move both legs around until the measurements are equal on both legs - lightly mark. Add for seam allowance by backing up (5/8" for example) and remarking. Then cut on new line.

My 2 cents.

Happy Trails

GvilleDave
04-28-2011, 15:01
Grizz - what are your thoughts (or others w/ knowledge on subject) on using mule tape for the sides in lieu of the tubular webbing?

GrizzlyAdams
04-29-2011, 08:22
I loved the last thing you said - the quality goes in before the label goes on.

I didn't expect the endcap to go on before rolling the long edge, but it makes perfect sense.

Showing my age. That's a line from a commercial for Zenith televisions...a loooonnnnggggg time ago!

You can bet I did a bunch of hammocks sewing the webbing down first before it dawned on me that it might be better to delay that step.


Put one leg of a framing square on the end mark of spreader bar and the other leg of the framing square on the end mark of the arc length. Move both legs around until the measurements are equal on both legs - lightly mark. Add for seam allowance by backing up (5/8" for example) and remarking. Then cut on new line.

My 2 cents.

Happy Trails
worth every penny! thanks for the thought.


Grizz - what are your thoughts (or others w/ knowledge on subject) on using mule tape for the sides in lieu of the tubular webbing?

I made a hammock using mule tape. I think someone else has it now, and since I have no current wrongful death actions against me at the moment, it must have held up.

Mule tape is really strong in the long direction---where you absolutely have to have it and is the direction the forces transfer on. It is a loose weave across, and when I do bar tacks to create loops at ends it squashes down in a way that more solid webbing does not. Impact of this? I dunno, but I keep using tubular webbing. You'll probably be OK, the stuff can be cheap, although you may need to give a good cleaning first ('cause it sometimes comes sorta greased to ease passage through the conduits it is pulling wire through.)

Shug
04-29-2011, 09:40
Grizz....I will look at my end-cap a whole new way. With respect and dignity.
Shug

Lonely Raven
07-27-2011, 14:44
Mule tape is really strong in the long direction---where you absolutely have to have it and is the direction the forces transfer on. It is a loose weave across, and when I do bar tacks to create loops at ends it squashes down in a way that more solid webbing does not. Impact of this? I dunno, but I keep using tubular webbing. You'll probably be OK, the stuff can be cheap, although you may need to give a good cleaning first ('cause it sometimes comes sorta greased to ease passage through the conduits it is pulling wire through.)

I think mine might be your mule tape one. It looks like it is, or at least I thought it looked like mule tape.

Now that I see you used a different material, I'll have to get some of that. I'm out of mule tape from making tree strap extensions for friends.

Anyone have a link for the tubing that Grizz uses?

GrizzlyAdams
07-27-2011, 20:54
I think mine might be your mule tape one. It looks like it is, or at least I thought it looked like mule tape.

Now that I see you used a different material, I'll have to get some of that. I'm out of mule tape from making tree strap extensions for friends.

Anyone have a link for the tubing that Grizz uses?

Could be, you got a loaner that had seen the world, if I remember correctly.
Here's the stuff (http://www.sailrite.com/Webbing-Tubular-Polyester-1-2-White-1150) I normally use.

Lonely Raven
07-28-2011, 14:15
Could be, you got a loaner that had seen the world, if I remember correctly.
Here's the stuff (http://www.sailrite.com/Webbing-Tubular-Polyester-1-2-White-1150) I normally use.

Oh yeah, that stuff looks way thinner then what's on my Bridge. On mine you had to use one of those hand stitch devices that I think are used for spot repairing sails. I could probably tow a truck with my Grizz Bridge. :lol:

I'll have to get a shiny new one with bug net from you someday.

GrizzlyAdams
07-28-2011, 16:07
Oh yeah, that stuff looks way thinner then what's on my Bridge. On mine you had to use one of those hand stitch devices that I think are used for spot repairing sails. I could probably tow a truck with my Grizz Bridge. :lol:


oh no, now I remember, that's not muletape. You got the -X model when I was fooling around with using Cuben as strapping. The popping sounds I heard when it was loaded weren't good, so I rolled in more webbing, pretty sure it would be the SailRite stuff. But it made the effective roll pretty fat. And yeah, watch out trucks, this is one hefty suspension.

Hibbs-a-hangin
01-26-2018, 15:32
Sorry maybe I missed it in his video but what was the with of the head end spreader bar? I saw the foot end was 26" just need to know if the 36" is enough


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