Single Line Suspension (SLS)

[headchange4u]

Not long ago, while lying in my hammock, I had an idea for a suspension system. It's a kind of hodge podge of features from different systems with a new twist: the ability to adjust the ridge line length/ hammock sag on the fly. I'm calling it the Single Line Suspension (SLS).

The reason that I'm referring to it as the SLS is because the suspension lines and the ridge line are all one long piece of cord. The system is very similar to the Trucker's Hitch suspension (http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/showthread.php?t=3762&highlight=trucker%27s+hitch), in that it uses tree huggers and a pair of the SMC descending rings. It's also a very light system at 4.8 oz for 50' total of Amsteel Blue and 2 descending rings. The tree huggers I am using for this writeup add an additional 2.8oz but I plan on making a lighter set in the near future.



Materials needed for this project:

~50' of a single braid rope (45' for the main line and 5' for the hammock lines). Amsteel 12 or Amsteel Blue recommended, available here (http://www.apsltd.com/Tree/d3000/e827.asp).
2 X SMC descending rings (http://www.smcgear.net/images/uploads/PDFS/prod_44_SMC%20Descending%20Ring.pdf)
2 X Tree huggers

For this suspension I am again using the 3mm Amsteel Blue for the main line (2500 breaking strength, .08 oz per ft). The total length on the main line is 45'. I came up with 45' by assuming that I would need about 15' of suspension line on each end of the hammock, and I also took into account the normal length of my ridge lines (approx 101"). I then added a few extra feet of line 'just in case'. You can always trim off extra line but it's hard to add needed length.

I HIGHLY recommend using a single braid line for this project, something like Amsteel Blue of the Amsteel 12. The reason I am calling for the use of single braid line is because of the use of clove hitches (http://www.apparentwind.com/knots/clove-hitch/) in the suspension system. I have found that a clove hitch will tend to lock when using a double braid and it very hard to get undone. I have found that single braid lines with the Samthane coating like the Amsteel allow the clove hitch to release, even after sleeping in the hammock overnight.

I installed this system on my ATHH hammock and used it on an overnight excursion and it worked very well. You could use this suspension on almost any type of non-spreader bar hammock but it works very well on hammocks with the channel sewn into each end, which would include HAAB style hammocks like ENO, TTTM, Trek Lite, Travel Hammock, etc and also hammocks like the Claytors. It even works on my Warbonnet El Dorado, although it moves the ridge line to the outside of the hammock instead of the internal ridge line (http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/showthread.php?t=2705&highlight=STRUCTURAL+WARBONNET) I am currently using.

The first step is to make a pair of hammock lines (HL). The HL consists of a 28" piece of rope that uses a Double Fisherman's Bend (http://www.animatedknots.com/doublefishermansrescue/index.php?LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.animatedknots.com) to form a loop. Once you have formed a loop, attach the line to the descending ring with a Lark's Head. I went with 28" because the stock line that I removed from the ATHH hammock was 32" but the diameter was much larger than the line I was using. I subtracted 4" to compensate for the smaller line. When you are finished you should have something that looks like this:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v704/headchange4u/SLS/SingleLineSuspension007.jpg

Besides the descending rings being the point that ties the main line and the HL together, I think it's gonna offer a couple more benefits. The rings will create a break in the path of any water that might be running down the suspension lines, helping to keep the hammock dry (in theory). I also think the rings will make great attachment points for things like hammock socks, bug netting, under quilts, weather shields, etc.

After you have made a pair of HLs, it's time to install them on the hammock. It's pretty easy to do. If you have a hammock that has the channel sewn into the end, simply passed the HL through the end of the hammock, pass the ring through the loop, and cinch it down tight:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v704/headchange4u/SLS/SingleLineSuspension023.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v704/headchange4u/SLS/SingleLineSuspension035.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v704/headchange4u/SLS/SingleLineSuspension041.jpg

If you are using a hammock that has whipped ends, like a DIY Speer-style hammock, just form a Lark's Head and cinch it right behind the whipping:
<pics coming>

Now that you have the HL attached to the hammock you are ready to add your Main Line (ML) that serves as both the ridge line and your suspension lines.The ML is attached to the rings with the clove hitch (http://www.apparentwind.com/knots/clove-hitch/). The clove hitch is what makes the system adjustable. You can see how to tie the clove hitch to the rings in these pics:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v704/headchange4u/SLS/SingleLineSuspension094.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v704/headchange4u/SLS/SingleLineSuspension097.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v704/headchange4u/SLS/SingleLineSuspension102.jpg

Here's a detail of the Clove hitch once it tightened down on the ring:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v704/headchange4u/SLS/SingleLineSuspension109.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v704/headchange4u/SLS/BT166.jpg

Although it's not shown in the pics, I used a Sharpie to mark the center of the ML. I also made marks 50.5" on each side of the center mark that gave me a guide to set the rings at 101", which is my normal ridge line length. You could make marks for different, pre-measured ridge line lengths if you wanted to experiment. Here's an example (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v704/headchange4u/SLS/25600b97.jpg) of how I positioned the ring right a one of the marks.

You are now ready to hang the hammock. Step 1 is to put the tree huggers on the tree. I am using the same trees huggers that I used for the Trucker's Hitch system:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v704/headchange4u/TruckersHitch012.jpg

Next take the line coming from the hammock and pass it through the tree hugger and then take it back down and pass it through the descending ring. This allows you to tighten the suspension just like the Trucker's Hitch, giving the 3:1 mechanical advantage:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v704/headchange4u/TruckersHitch025.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v704/headchange4u/SLS/SingleLineSuspension122.jpg

After passing the line through the ring take back up and pass it through the tree hugger again. In the past of would tie the knot at the ring, but I now tie it at the tree hugger for a couple of reasons. The first is because if you tie the knot at the tree hugger, it acts as a drip string and it also requires less rope because you don't have to take the line back down to the ring.

I first tie a slip knot then a half hitch to secure things:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v704/headchange4u/SLS/b38aafa2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v704/headchange4u/SLS/330faf6a.jpg

The coolest part about this suspension system is that it allows you adjust the sag of the hammock pretty quickly. It's kinda fun to play around with the sag in very small increments. You can adjust this thing an inch at a time to really dial in the comfort of the hammock. To adjust the the ridge line you first loosen the suspension. Once you have some slack in the suspension lines you can loosen the clove hitch and move the ring's position on the ML to lengthen or shorten the ridge line section, giving you more or less sag as needed.

In this first pic of me in the hammock the ridge line is set to my standard 101":
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v704/headchange4u/SLS/SingleLineSuspension136.jpg

Here is a pic of the ridge line set to about 80", giving the hammock a really deep sag. The sag was so much that I would have had to raise the tree huggers above my head to get in the hammock without my butt hitting the ground:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v704/headchange4u/SLS/19f3081c.jpg

Here's a shot with the ridge line at it's maximum length, with almost no sag in the unoccupied hammock.I went from a 80" ridge line length to a setup that has almost no sag at all and it took less than three minutes to adjust between the two.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v704/headchange4u/SLS/7dcb8fd2.jpg

[angrysparrow]

Fantastic writeup! It's nice to see more suspension designs emerging. This is the first adjustable-on-the-fly ridgeline method that I've seen.

[GrizzlyAdams]

nice writeup HC4U. You're making good use of your new camera!

I have recent experience using the clove hitch to position an SMC ring on 3mm Vectran, for the hardware-assisted trucker's hitch. I'm finding that it tightens up very hard. I've been able to undo the clove hitches, but only with great effort and with risk to fingernails, or cord if I need to use a hard blade to try and loosen things up.

I have better success with looping the line around the ring about 4 times, with the second pass also looping back around the strand coming in to the ring the first time. I know this needs a picture, maybe I can take one on Monday. I'm on the road again (no surprise).

Grizz

[S3ymour]

I like this setup, it makes beautiful sense to me. As soon as my hammock arrives I'm going to try to set something like this up.

[dufus934]

gotta get some more line and rings to do this. Great write up HC4U!

[headchange4u]

nice writeup HC4U. You're making good use of your new camera!

I have recent experience using the clove hitch to position an SMC ring on 3mm Vectran, for the hardware-assisted trucker's hitch. I'm finding that it tightens up very hard. I've been able to undo the clove hitches, but only with great effort and with risk to fingernails, or cord if I need to use a hard blade to try and loosen things up.

I have better success with looping the line around the ring about 4 times, with the second pass also looping back around the strand coming in to the ring the first time. I know this needs a picture, maybe I can take one on Monday. I'm on the road again (no surprise).

Grizz

I've been really putting that camera to use. I got some really good pics of the Cicada infestation we got going on in Kentucky right now that I will be posting some pics to the Member's Lounge in the next few days.

When I got up the morning after sleeping in the hammock with this setup, one of the first things I did was to try and undo the clove hitch. You are right that it does tend to seat itself very well. I tried picking it apart with my fingers to get it loose, and it worked, but I had better luck holding the line on each side of the ring, just before and after the clove hitch, and pushing the the line together and wiggling it at the same time. The CH came loose much easier that way. I know that explanation is as clear as mud so I will try and get pics of what I am talking about.

I would also like to see the pics of your method.

[headchange4u]

BTW,

Interesting factoid: When you lay in a hammock with almost no sag you lay pretty flat right down the middle of the hammock. Also, the hammock closes around you like a cocoon:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v704/headchange4u/SLS/SingleLineSuspension166.jpg

[dufus934]

does cacoon = shoulder squeeze in this situation?

[headchange4u]

Yes, there was a lot of shoulder squeeze.

[warbonnetguy]

i found, if you crank it all the way tight like that, yeah, there is lots of squeeze. but also found that if i gave it just a little sag, you still lay straight down the middle relativly flat, but i experienced about the least shoulder squeeze possible. i can experience the same thing when using lots of sag, laying straight down the middle produces near zero squeeze, but since you are hanging with lots of sag, it may be uncomfortable to lay that way for other reasons, like banana curve or more knee hyperextension or whatever. so it works better when you have little sag and laying down the middle would be relativly flat on its own.

i've been using a clove hitch with the 3mm vectrus 12 as well lately. well, at least a couple times. i was able to get them to break relatively easy also. just by pulling the lines in the right directions, i won't try to explain.

i'm sure you are aware, but watch those tree strap loops, that line is moving through there when you tighten, and when you tighten it tight there is some force as well. i've been hanging from 4g welded steel rings lately to avoid wear on the tree strap loops.

it is a sharp looking suspension setup you got there by the way. the blue doesn't look too bad, why didn't you get the grey, looked like aps had amsteel blue in black or grey one.

[headchange4u]

When I bought the spool all they had was blue. APS wasn't even selling the Amsteel Blue yet when I bought mine.

[TiredFeet]

...looked like aps had amsteel blue in black or grey one.

Where did you find black or gray? I haven't been able to find it.

[rigidpsycho]

nice looking suspension setup there HC4U.

[slowhike]

Cool set up HC4U! I'll be looking forward to hearing more as you use it.


BTW,

Interesting factoid: When you lay in a hammock with almost no sag you lay pretty flat right down the middle of the hammock. Also, the hammock closes around you like a cocoon:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v704/headchange4u/SLS/SingleLineSuspension166.jpg

That's how I hang mine, but I use an insulated air mat & that helps the shoulder squeeze.
I use a more narrow hammock (about 48" wide) & the trekking pole to spread it above my head. That does away with the cocoon thing<G>.

[headchange4u]

That's how I hang mine, but I use an insulated air mat & that helps the shoulder squeeze.
I use a more narrow hammock (about 48" wide) & the trekking pole to spread it above my head. That does away with the cocoon thing<G>.


That's my TTTM double hammock in the pics and it's pretty wide. I had to use it for this writeup because the tabs on the ATHH were getting in the way of the pictures. I was kinda surprised on the cocoon thing. I think that would be pretty handy in the winter. Sorta like a hammock sock without having to carry extra gear. I wish I could have spent more time in the cocoon, but it was like 90* when I was taking the pics and it heated up fast inside.:)

[warbonnetguy]

Where did you find black or gray? I haven't been able to find it.

aps has it in light grey and a few other colors.

[GrizzlyAdams]

...
i've been using a clove hitch with the 3mm vectrus 12 as well lately. well, at least a couple times. i was able to get them to break relatively easy also. just by pulling the lines in the right directions, i won't try to explain.
...


WBG, the line I'm using is the same as what you put on my Eldorado, I think. It is a soft weave and doesn't transfer "push" into the knot if try to undo the clove hitch the way HC4U does. "Pulling the lines in the right direction" is a teaser though. Do you mean pull the lines at say 90 degrees to the direction they go under tension? Not seeing this...

HC4U, I have been musing also about the overall design of the SLS. A couple of versions of my DIY bridge ago I had a suspension that was similar in-so-far as there were two rings, lines from the rings to trees at the ends, and a ridgeline between between the rings. There are some pictures in this post (http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/showpost.php?p=35949&postcount=524), although the point of that post was on attaching the hammock to the rings. The ridgeline, as you can see, is a different, lighter-weight cord (in the pictures, Speer's orange no-tangle line). To adjust the ridgeline length you undo a round-turn-with-two-half hitches knot that attaches the ridgeline to the ring, set a new length, and re-tie the knot. The connection between the webbing at the tree and the rings are essentially the same as what you have so nicely documented a couple of times.

On to the musing then...using SLS approach, shortening the ridgeline drops the hammock lower, while in the "separate ridgeline" approach it raises the hammock. The converse is true if you lengthen the ridgeline. In both methods a minor adjustment won't matter much, but a large adjustment will probably necessitate changing the length on the suspension lines too.

Grizz

[warbonnetguy]

yeah grizz, that's the vectrus 12 that came with your eldo. i did kinda pull one or both strands at 90 deg. maybe even a little past that. the object seemed to be to get the hitch itself to roll or move a bit. this seemed to loosen it up enough to untie pretty easy.

another advantage i see to this setup, is you have lots of line to work with. you could always do less passes for the trucker's if you need more line for length, and it seems great for someone who wants to play with their ridge distance.

[Graybeard]

Inexperience speaking here.
I like the simplicity of this arrangement and wonder whether it could be made even simpler with a Speer type hammock. The picture in my mind consists of:
1. Accordianate the end of the hammock as you would before tying Ed Speer's overhand knot, and clamping it temporarily with one or more large binder clips.
2. Pass the accordianated hammock end through the ring and back on itself.
3. Whip the overlap as tightly as you can for two or three inches.

Would the hammock likely slip out of the whipping? If it tended to, is there a way of making it more secure?

[GrizzlyAdams]

...
When I got up the morning after sleeping in the hammock with this setup, one of the first things I did was to try and undo the clove hitch. You are right that it does tend to seat itself very well. I tried picking it apart with my fingers to get it loose, and it worked, but I had better luck holding the line on each side of the ring, just before and after the clove hitch, and pushing the the line together and wiggling it at the same time. The CH came loose much easier that way. I know that explanation is as clear as mud so I will try and get pics of what I am talking about.

I would also like to see the pics of your method.

Two ways. The most complicated first. Do a couple of wraps around the ring.
1831

Now double back around the standing line.
1832

Continue the wrap a couple of more times and you're done.
1833

The back loop around the standing end helps to keep the ring from slipping along the rope under tension. One the one hand, a ring put here this way doesn't move much when not under tension. On the other hand it doesn't slip along the rope so easily when loosened up, e.g., to adjust your ridgeline.

In my mind a better way...for my purposes with the trucker's hitch anyway, is to simply wrap the line around the ring 4 or 5 times.
1835

It does not move under tension, and is easy to loosen and move when not under tension. Neither of these methods jam. Can't happen.


Inexperience speaking here.
I like the simplicity of this arrangement and wonder whether it could be made even simpler with a Speer type hammock. The picture in my mind consists of:
1. Accordianate the end of the hammock as you would before tying Ed Speer's overhand knot, and clamping it temporarily with one or more large binder clips.
2. Pass the accordianated hammock end through the ring and back on itself.
3. Whip the overlap as tightly as you can for two or three inches.

Would the hammock likely slip out of the whipping? If it tended to, is there a way of making it more secure?

Here's a mod that will work. Youngblood has educated some of us on whipping the the end just by using a double sheetbend knot. That involves doubling back the folded hammock end as the larger of the two "ropes" being joined in that knot. If the other cord is short and tied closely to a ring, then that effectively does what you suggest, but without the uncertainty.

Grizz

[Mule]

Grizz's Quote, "Here's a mod that will work. Youngblood has educated some of us on whipping the the end just by using a double sheetbend knot. That involves doubling back the folded hammock end as the larger of the two "ropes" being joined in that knot. If the other cord is short and tied closely to a ring, then that effectively does what you suggest, but without the uncertainty. Grizz."

I have been using the double sheet bend at Youngblood's suggestion for months. In my mind it's the way to go, and I don't make it "slippery" by pulling the end through as a loop. I'm afraid I will loosen it and not remember to double check it and have a disaster, and with a pair of needle nosed pliers I can get it loose if needed. Mule

[Graybeard]

Grizz & Mule;
I was hoping to eliminate the rope link between the hammock and the ring by folding the hammock directly to the ring. I do understand, however, that the sheetbend tightens under stress, gripping better with increasing load, whereas the grip of the whipping never gets any better than the initial installation. I may try the whipping, but if I do I'll keep an eagle eye on it.

[GrizzlyAdams]

Grizz & Mule;
I was hoping to eliminate the rope link between the hammock and the ring by folding the hammock directly to the ring. I do understand, however, that the sheetbend tightens under stress, gripping better with increasing load, whereas the grip of the whipping never gets any better than the initial installation. I may try the whipping, but if I do I'll keep an eagle eye on it.

Something you could do as protection against the fabric pulling completely through the whipping would be to do a "fat hem" at the end of the fabric, maybe a triple roll hem. This would serve as a jam if things start slipping.

Grizz

[Youngblood]

If you just need a loop to tie off to in the middle of rope, a butterfly knot works well for that and is tied without using the ends of the rope. As knots go, it is not a particularly difficult knot to untie (of course the rope used and the tension applied influence how difficult any knot is to untie).

I have seen two ways of tying a butterfly knot and it is the knot I use on my rope suspensions for a tie off point for my bugnet's ridgeline.

[Graybeard]

Something you could do as protection against the fabric pulling completely through the whipping would be to do a "fat hem" at the end of the fabric, maybe a triple roll hem. This would serve as a jam if things start slipping.

Grizz
Good thought. But I was sewing the end hems while you were responding :(. I did, however, make sure the hems were wide enough that I could thread a length of 3 mm accessory cord through the hem to achieve the same goal, though that could be a bit too much.

[GrizzlyAdams]

Good thought. But I was sewing the end hems while you were responding :(. I did, however, make sure the hems were wide enough that I could thread a length of 3 mm accessory cord through the hem to achieve the same goal, though that could be a bit too much.

You won't need a full hammock width of cord...just enough to fatten out the end. For that matter it doesn't need to be just one contiguous piece. Maybe a number of short pieces spaced out inside the hem.

Obviously the cord will need to bend easily to go with the folds. Maybe paracord?

Grizz

[Graybeard]

You won't need a full hammock width of cord...just enough to fatten out the end. For that matter it doesn't need to be just one contiguous piece. Maybe a number of short pieces spaced out inside the hem.

Obviously the cord will need to bend easily to go with the folds. Maybe paracord?

Grizz

Yeah, I'll do a bit of experimenting to see what gives me enough "knob" without being overkill. I should also mention that I have a couple of techniques that I've used before that result in very tight whipping. The one I've used most frequently is like a clove hitch repeated over and over again. The other one starts in the middle of a length of whipping twine and consists of single overhands repeating on opposite sides until the whipping is the desired length. If this verbal picture doesn't get across, and you're interested, I'll post pix.

[GrizzlyAdams]

Yeah, I'll do a bit of experimenting to see what gives me enough "knob" without being overkill. I should also mention that I have a couple of techniques that I've used before that result in very tight whipping. The one I've used most frequently is like a clove hitch repeated over and over again. The other one starts in the middle of a length of whipping twine and consists of single overhands repeating on opposite sides until the whipping is the desired length. If this verbal picture doesn't get across, and you're interested, I'll post pix.

I have the picture from your words (and there aren't even a thousand of them!)---I did monster lashing projects in Boy Scouts---but I'm sure others on HF would like to see pix.

Grizz

[Graybeard]

At Grizz's suggestion, here are pix of a couple of "twists" on conventional whipping that make it easier to get tighter whipping. I tied them with braided cord on a broom handle to make it easier to see what's going on in the pix. The first consists of a series of clove hitches and looks like this:
http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery/files/1/5/8/7/clovewhip_thumb.jpg (http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery/showimage.php?i=3553&c=)

Note how the clove hitches form a spiral. Worked with waxed whipping twine, as each clove hitch is added and pulled tight it stays reasonably tight as the next loop is added.
The second variation uses a single overhand to keep the work tight as you progress. It looks like this:
http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery/files/1/5/8/7/overhandwhip_thumb.jpg (http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery/showimage.php?i=3554&c=)
Begin with a suitably long cut length of whipping twine. Tie a single overhand knot, then bring both ends to the other side, tie another single overhand knot, and so on. End with a square knot. While more tedious than the clove hitch version, it allows an even tighter whipping--tighter than any other technique I've ever seen.

[Linus]

Where did you get the camo straps with loops!? And how long would you recommend for each?

[FanaticFringer]

Where did you get the camo straps with loops!? And how long would you recommend for each?

I use the same straps. The woodland green polyester camo straps can be bought here.
www.owfinc.com/Hardware/Shardware/webbing.asp
They will not sew the loops for you. A popular length around here and what I use
is about 12' of webbing per side. But that is done with another suspension method.

Another great option in case you dont want to mess with sewing your own loops is here.
www.hammockforums.net/forum/showthread.php?t=3227&highlight=strapworks

[Linus]

Thanks!!!!!!

[headchange4u]

There has been a question that I have been meaning to raise and it keeps slipping my mind. It concerns the clove hitch. It is generally accepted that knots reduce the breaking strength of a rope by roughly 1/2 because they twist and distort the fibers in the rope, making the forces on the rope uneven. Knots can also cause the fibers of the rope to cut into each other.

When I started fooling around with the clove hitch in the SLS and I noticed that the clove hitch (CH) is more of the line wrapping around an object instead of being tied like a standard knot, for example, a bowline knot. It doesn't kink the line as bad. It looked very much like the configuration of the CH would lend itself to distributing the forces on the rope more evenly.

Why do I care? The CH is the only real "knot" in the section of the suspension that keeps your bum from smacking the cold, hard ground. Assuming that the CH does a better job of distributing the forces, that would mean that instead of your suspension's breaking strength being reduced by 1/2 with a normal knot, you may retain more of the ropes original strength.

Any one care to share their thoughts on this subject?

[Graybeard]

You're right about the clove hitch being less damaging to rope than many other knots, at least in many of it's applications. Some of that advantage can be lost, however, if the lead puts a sharp bend in the rope. The construction of the rope itself also affects the amount of damage from bends. Constructions where all of the fibers spiral are less subject to damage because a fiber goes only a short distance on the outside of a curve before passing to the inside of the curve. Tight curves offer less opportunity for such compensation than more gentle curves.

As I recall, The Ashley Book of Knots has some good information on this topic but I can't check because my son made off with my copy a decade or two ago.

In the case of hammock suspensions, one way to minimize damage is to take up much of the strain with friction between the line and the anchor. For example, a suspension line that first wraps around a large diameter anchor, such as a tree, for several turns and then ends with a clove hitch will suffer less damage than an arrangement where the entire load is taken by a knot. But it's more of a nuisance.

[Badger]

Nice and simple. Good job.

[tripitaka]

Now if only I could buy the SMC rings or even the Amsteel Blue in the UK without being charged $50 for the shipping...

Great system - I need to have a play with this but it sounds like neither the rope nor the rings are available over here.

[warbonnetguy]

you can probably find a chart online somewhere where there is a listing of a bunch of knots and hitches and the % that they weaken the line, clove hitch is probably on there. i looked at it long ago, but don't remember. i'd say the clove definately isn't as bad as some knots, it is bending around the biner, which def isn't as small a dia as the line itself.

[Ramblinrev]

according to one source (wikipedia I think) the clove hitch has a tendency to slip if subject to fluctuating loads. It is an excellent knot for static veritcal hanging where the weight is constant and directly vertical. The buntline hitch is a variation of the clove hitch and it seems to be plenty stable. I have never had a clove hitch slip on me but I use it pretty much only for static applications.

[Mrprez]

Now if only I could buy the SMC rings or even the Amsteel Blue in the UK without being charged $50 for the shipping...

Great system - I need to have a play with this but it sounds like neither the rope nor the rings are available over here.

How much Amsteel do you need?

[tripitaka]

Looking at the 50' recommended in the OP - Grizz has kindly offered to get a price for me but I'd welcome any help I could get! :D

[warbonnetguy]

if you do end up ordering that blackbird, i can sell you the 50' of 3mm amsteel blue (but in grey) that way you don't have to pay 2 shipping costs. i also have 1.75mm neon yellow zing-it guyline single braid dyneema as well

[Coffee]

Am I right in thinking that with the clove hitch you are talking about going with webbing from the hammock, around the tree, and securing the hammock to the tree using a clove hitch?

You'll have to forgive me for not going back and rereading everything, slow interent connection where I am at now.

[warbonnetguy]

i think they are talking about using line, and clove hitching onto a biner

[koaloha05]

As I recall, The Ashley Book of Knots has some good information on this topic but I can't check because my son made off with my copy a decade or two ago.

From "The Ashley Book of Knots", 1944 edition, page #17:

"The break in material almost invariably occurred at a point just outside the entrance to the knot, which is usual in all tests. A common statement that appears in many or most knot discussions is that "a knot is weaker than the rope in which it is tied." But since a rope practically never breaks within a knot, this can hardly be correct. It appears to be true that a rope is weakest just outside the entrance to a knot, and this would seem to be due to the rigidity of the knot. These experiments were not carried far enough to give conclusive results, but some of the results indicated were quite different from what is generally accepted."

[TeeDee]

From "The Ashley Book of Knots", 1944 edition, page #17:

"The break in material almost invariably occurred at a point just outside the entrance to the knot, which is usual in all tests. A common statement that appears in many or most knot discussions is that "a knot is weaker than the rope in which it is tied." But since a rope practically never breaks within a knot, this can hardly be correct. It appears to be true that a rope is weakest just outside the entrance to a knot, and this would seem to be due to the rigidity of the knot. These experiments were not carried far enough to give conclusive results, but some of the results indicated were quite different from what is generally accepted."

Recent research, c.f., for example the New Journal of Physics for those so inclined, is pointing out the truth in this statement that a rope doesn't break inside the knot, but rather at the point of entry to the knot.

To Quote:


A new way of localizing the breakage point in a rope or string is described today in New Journal of Physics, published jointly by the UK's Institute of Physics and the German Physical Society.

Spaghetti lubricated in olive oil is shedding light on why knotted ropes or strings used by sailors, anglers and mountaineers snap where and when they do.

"Finding the breakage point on a rope with some degree of accuracy is very difficult. Materials like nylon break so fast that it is impossible to see where or why a break occurs, even with a high velocity camera. Instead, the best material to see a breakage turns out to be well cooked spaghetti," said Dr. Giovanni Dietler of the University of Lausanne in Switzerland.

Mountaineers, sailors and anglers all recognize that knotted ropes break easily near to the site of the knot. By looking at why a rope or string breaks at that site, it is hoped that stronger fabrics can be produced that overcome this problem.

The researchers, based at the University of Lausanne and at Poznan University of Technology in Poland, analyzed consecutive frames of film to see where the breaking process begins. They learned that the breaking point was localized at well-defined points close to the entrance to the knot, where the spaghetti was very bent.

The researchers then carried out computer simulations of tightening knots to see what effect this had.

"It was found that the breakage occurred where the bend in the filament was the greatest," said Professor Piotr Pieranski of Poznan University in Poland.

Knowing that the higher the curvature in the rope, the more chance there is of it breaking can lead to producing materials with new weaving patterns that reduce the curvature. This same principle could also be applied to produce stronger plastics by minimizing the curvature in polymer chains or by avoiding knots within the molecule.

"By comparing localization of breakage points in knotted spaghetti with those reported in molecular simulations of knotted individual polyethylene chains, we were struck by the conservation of the same basic physical principles from macro to nano scale," says Dr. Andrzej Stasiak from the University of Lausanne.

The Institute of Physics is a leading international professional body and learned society with over 30,000 members, which promotes the advancement and dissemination of a knowledge of and education in the science of physics, pure and applied.

It has a worldwide membership and is a major international player in: scientific publishing and electronic dissemination of physics; setting professional standards for physicists and awarding professional qualifications; and promoting physics through scientific conferences, education and science policy advice.

The Institute works in collaboration with national physical societies, plays an important role in transnational societies such as the European Physical Society, and represents British and Irish physicists in international organizations.

In Great Britain and Ireland, the Institute is active in providing support for physicists in all professions and careers, encouraging physics research and its applications, providing support for physics in schools, colleges and universities, influencing government and informing public debate.

Some fascinating work being done and I'm sure that we'll learn more in the future.

I've read other research results looking into the mechanism of breakage in the fractured material by examining the fracture surfaces. Knowing the fracture mechanics could conceivably lead to even better materials than the spectra/dyneema and vectran we have today.

Don't know if the results will eventually lead to an unbreakable rope, but the thought of 3 mm rope capable of loads exceeding several Imperial tons is inviting. Especially if it has high abrasion resistance also - something that plagues vectran.

[Graybeard]

Hmmmmm. Sounds to me like fairly elementary beam theory.
b

[koaloha05]

The flattening though not permanent of AmSteel Blue when using rings & Garda hitch got me a bit concerned. Enough to abandon the ring/Garda set up when using Amsteel blue as a suspension line. Not sure if the the flattening causes a sharper bend in the line fiber than a rope that stays more round. If it does and the above citation is true wondering how much strength the Amsteel blue decreases. Never noticed a flattening situation on the Spyderline (?3.8mm & heavier weight/ft) which I think is a polyester sheathed Dyneema line. Something other than work to think about over lunch break.

[Jim S]

heres a photo of my new (for me) SLS using a whoopie on each end of the hammock, note the pull ring on each end to tighten the slack. Its all made or 4,000 pound spectra from ebay.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2770/4487802875_e0c9192f2a_o.jpg
it is descibed in the suspension forum "structural ridgeline and whoopies".
Jim S

[mikewilkinson]

Just thought I'd share my method of single line suspension with everyone.

Photos attached probably explain it better.

But basically on a sinle line of 4mm Dyneema SK75 (will be chaning to 3mm or possibly 2.5mm SK78 soon) I use two Karabiners and a welded steel ring (SMC ring is probably better) to hang between two tree huggers.

At one end I tie an Evenk(Siberian) Hitch to the Karabiner on the Tree hugger

At the other I use the ring with 3 or four wraps of cord to tie an adjustable truckers hitch(release tension slide ring to position, re-tension)and secure with a simple slipped half hitch.

I don't tension the line to much as I need some slack to attach my hammock hanging karabiners.

The Karabiners for hanging the hammock are attached anywhere along the suspension line by forming a clove hitch around the karabiner (you could also use the wrap method like the ring, however the clove hitch will defintely not slip), I then simply clip the hammock in to these karabiners, Sag can be adjusted by removing the karabiner and re-hitching in place somewhere else.

I've attached images of a long and short hang set up with a fixed hammock sag.

I am currently investigating the use of Nacrabiners to replace the karabiners on the tree huggers and to just stick a couple of marlin spike hitches in the line and hang the hammock directly off them, although I cannot beat my current method for speed of hang.

Hope this is useful to some people, looking to hang from a single line.

[sr1355]

I received my order of 50' of Amsteel Blue 7/64" over the weekend and had a chance to set this up in my apartment... GF thinks I'm a little NUTZ but aren't we all....:lol::lol::lol: Anyways, I want to have hammock quickly removable from the entire system and don't want to introduce much weight to the system.... I'm thinking of a carbonfiber arrow toggle and larks head that would allow me to removal hammock for adding DIY peapod system... Not sure how much weight the CF shaft can take in this position... Have 0 and 25 degress sleeping bags that have foot box zippers installed so all I need to do is address hood area... Tried one on the hammock this weekend and it was perfect apart from hood hanging down... With a peapod style fleece bag liner I can see some pretty cold weather hangs....

13828

[sr1355]

Answered my own question last night.... While the two carbonfiber toggle held my weight they were not happy :scared::scared::scared:.... I could hear them creak as I loaded the hammock, picked up a 4' piece of 3/8" 6061 alum solid rod for $3 at local supply shop.... Think this will be a much better option....

[Topplestack]

I've been hanging for a couple years now using a very similar single line suspension idea. For me, I hate cutting rope incase I need it for something else. That was before I had heard of whoopieslings. I'm currently hanging on a double ended single line whoopiesling and love it. Personally I found that it keeps much more of the original strength in the rope and leaves the ridgeline semi adjustable.

I hadn't looked around to see if anyone else was, but it is definately nice to know someone else has given it a try.

[solobear]

Awesome: As a noob working up a "method" for my first "made by me" this is a wonderfully simple way to do it...thank you.

SB

[hikelite]

I tried this today, but I had some problems. My rings kept sliding down the ridgeline when I got on the hammock. I used a non jamming hitch (can't find the name now) to hold it in place. Even after solving the problem with the rings sliding, I had difficulty getting a nice hang. This is the first time I've tried a structural ridgeline. I read that it should get tighter when I get in, but I don't see how that is possible.

Could it be my cord. I'm not sure the specs. It's old "Spectra" cord from when I did a lot of climbing. It's way overkill, but it's what I have (some Amsteel is on the way). I've used it for years on my old hammock. It seemed like there was a lot of sag.

Unfortunately I'm realizing my old stand is too short. I need to rig up another place to hang at home. At least I got to spend a couple hours in the woods playing with it. We've had shockingly nice weather for Dec. :)

Maybe it's my tree straps. They could be stretching. I don't use them with my stand, so maybe that's why I don't have trouble at home.

[bike camper]

Can a HH ULBA be modified to use this structural ridgeline idea? The area where the line attaches is not readily available as the hammock comes. It is covered with a silnylon covering.

[grok]

I'm sure this has been done but I have allways had one line and treehugers. That's it. no rings. I used the gathered end method my suspension line goes straight through the sphincter at the end of the hammock. I used a piece of gutted paracord through the draw string channel and reverse a couple of halfhitches. just inside the peak i tie a simple knot on and alluminum mini biner. pull tight into the peak and repeat for the other side. biner can be easily adjusted to alter the length of the ridgeline. Even those aren't necessary, a knot will do, they just come in handy. now I've switched to whoopies. I'm going to try a ridge line out of 1.74 lashit for version 2.0 but first ive made a double ended whoopie all in one. KISS!

[olddog]

hc4u, Thanks for a relatively simple system that allows quick changes to sag, gathers, etc. New to hanging and I find this sls great for experimenting. I must have tried every gather type described on HF and some new ones, rl lenghts in 2" increments. All in one day. Culling now looking for that 'sweet spot'. Had some bull line, a type of mule tape 1250#, on hand. Four wraps around rings, holds tight, loosens easily. Thanks again.

[hikelite]

I'm sure this has been done but I have allways had one line and treehugers. That's it. no rings. I used the gathered end method my suspension line goes straight through the sphincter at the end of the hammock. I used a piece of gutted paracord through the draw string channel and reverse a couple of halfhitches. just inside the peak i tie a simple knot on and alluminum mini biner. pull tight into the peak and repeat for the other side. biner can be easily adjusted to alter the length of the ridgeline. Even those aren't necessary, a knot will do, they just come in handy. now I've switched to whoopies. I'm going to try a ridge line out of 1.74 lashit for version 2.0 but first ive made a double ended whoopie all in one. KISS!

Wouldn't that put the whipping under stress? I really need to get those pictures taken of my solution.


hc4u, Thanks for a relatively simple system that allows quick changes to sag, gathers, etc. New to hanging and I find this sls great for experimenting. I must have tried every gather type described on HF and some new ones, rl lenghts in 2" increments. All in one day. Culling now looking for that 'sweet spot'. Had some bull line, a type of mule tape 1250#, on hand. Four wraps around rings, holds tight, loosens easily. Thanks again.

I tried wrapping the line around the rings, but it still moved when I got in the hammock. Maybe Mule Tape will work better then the thicker spectra cord I used. I have 3 whoopies now. the 2 ends and the RL attached to the rings.

I will be doing more test hanging again with the new system soon. I'll take pics and post them.

[olddog]

probably not what you would want to cut ounces but I'm just experimenting. 40' of mule tape, tripled wrapped thru 2, 1 1/2" welded steel rings with 2, 20" loops of mule tape larksheaded thru rings and larkheaded to gathered ends of 126"x54" of hemmed polyester. While playing with different gathers I started whipping with rubber bands, ended just using the larkshead on the gather. No slips, slides or bruises. The wraps in the rings tend to stack against each other and lock until loosened.

[grok]

Wouldn't that put the whipping under stress? I really need to get those pictures taken of my solution.


heh heh :D I'm 5'7" and weigh 150 lbs. I can whip it with dental floss. I honestly don't think it would matter if I weighed 300. One line no structural knots very strong. 5 lashings of 550 cord on each end will hold alot of weight.

[MaxM]

I'm sure this has been done but I have allways had one line and treehugers. That's it. no rings. I used the gathered end method my suspension line goes straight through the sphincter at the end of the hammock. I used a piece of gutted paracord through the draw string channel and reverse a couple of halfhitches.

I use a system very similar to this! The simplicity is great, but the truth is, for me, I only did it the way I did because of limited supplies. That and I had never heard of hammock camping before. I whipped my hammock back on itself and put carabiners in the loop. This was actually a huge problem at first, keeping the biners from sliding down the ridgeline. Then I found the Marlinspike Hitch. Now its smooth sailing.
Heh, I used waxed floss too. Not enough the first time though, luckily i was close to the ground :D.

19429

[hikelite]

I kept meaning to take pictures of my suspension. I still haven't, but I made a little video that demonstrates the design:

VroH4WucO0A

[Sasquillian]

Hello, I'm new to the forum and even newer to hammocks (I only set it up once, due to not really having a suspension system). I bought an ENO DN, 4 OP repel rings, and 2 23KN wire gate biners. This SLS suspension system really caught my attention and seems to be something I'd like to try, but I have a few questions.

1. by nature of the design, it seems that a lot of tension would be put on the RL, along with the normal angular tension. Does this still follow the "line tension" guide that I saw in another thread, or is it more evenly spread due to the RL being part of the suspension?
2. I've been reading a lot about knots degrading the rope; would that clove hitch really pose a problem?
3. I"ll probably try to pick up some 3/16" or 1/4" amsteel (I know, it weighs more, but so do I (6' 5" 250lbs) lol), how much would 50' of either 3/16" or 1/4" weigh about? and where's the cheapest place to get it?

I probably have more questions but can't think of them at the momen.... wait, I just remembered one :D is there anywhere that sells either 1.5" or 2" seatbelt webbing huggers with loops already sewn? Thanks in advance for the help,

Joel

[Catavarie]

So I just had a random thought about the SLS. Would it be possible to use a softshackle or a prussik to attach the hammock to the SLS, thereby doing away with the rings and their associated weight?

Assuming of course that you use cordage rated to handle the weight.


I'm sure this is probably a bad idea, just hoping someone smarter than me can tell me why. :D

[Eliteoomph]

Makes since to me...

[raiffnuke]

I don't see why not...(no pun intended)

[Canuck]

I'm new to the forum but this system looks great. I started off with your standard yellow rope and two alpine butterfly knots with carabiners to attach my hammock. I think I will try set this up. Can you set your tarp up on the same rope or would you hang another rope.

[raiffnuke]

I'm new to the forum but this system looks great. I started off with your standard yellow rope and two alpine butterfly knots with carabiners to attach my hammock. I think I will try set this up. Can you set your tarp up on the same rope or would you hang another rope.

You could....but IMHO, it would be better to use a seperate RL to hang your tarp from. That way when you get into your hammoch and it sags a little...and it will...your tarp tension will not be affected and your tarp will stay nice and tight.

[olddog]

So I just had a random thought about the SLS. Would it be possible to use a softshackle or a prussik to attach the hammock to the SLS, thereby doing away with the rings and their associated weight?

Assuming of course that you use cordage rated to handle the weight.


I'm sure this is probably a bad idea, just hoping someone smarter than me can tell me why. :D

Catavarie, It will and does work. Been working on this since the amsteel came in. Four continuous loops and 40' of amsteel for the SLS which will probably be shortened. The truckers hitch loops have a short piece of tubing to protect the amsteel. At first the prussics didn't want to grip but after sliding up and down held fine.

[Alex_D]

Hi there,
i´m new in the hanging way of sleeping and plan to order my a DD-Frontliner.
I like the idea of the Single line Suspension and my Question is now if this will also work with the DD-Frontliner?
Is there enough hight to tie the Mosquitonet on the rigid line?
Thanks..
Regards Alex

[olddog]

Welcome aboard Alex. A DIYer so can't answer about the frontliner. Just went and checked and the height between my RL and chest is 27", RL to forehead is 24". This is with my No Hardware Single Line Suspension on my indoor stand. The RL is 61" off the floor. Hope this will help.

[Coach-Red]

Where is a good place to purchase the Amsteel 12?...The link in the OP does not work...Thanks!

[olddog]

try this one tank29. I was very pleased and I believe the discount code still works http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/showthread.php?t=11819

[Coach-Red]

try this one tank29. I was very pleased and I believe the discount code still works http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/showthread.php?t=11819

Thanks...Ordered 200ft...Now all I have to get are the descending rings...:)

[olddog]

Try it without the rings http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/showthread.php?t=36688

[SuperTroll]

Sure seems like Single line suspension...for a TRUE Horizontal no less...from Exped......

http://soldiersystems.net/2011/08/08/or-ergo-hammock-combi-from-exped/

http://soldiersystems.net/blog1/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/20110808-032959.jpg

[SFT2]

I finally got all the stuff and started turning a pile of parts into a hammock. Decided to use a single line setup with 7/64" Amsteel Blue and 2.8 oz nylon for the body (I'm a big guy, 6'4" and 250#). The ends are lashed with paracord just to keep everything in place, then some 9" long Amsteel slings with eyes spliced into each end tie the body to the ridgeline. I think I want to redo the lashing and reduce some tension on the sides, but I threw it into a pair of trees in the front yard and it actually kept my butt off the ground! I'm using 2000 pound slings around the trees and plan on putting biners between the slings and ridgeline to reduce wear. I know the slings need to break in some and I need to get the sag set right, but I'll work on that this weekend.

I have a question, though. How tight should the ridgeline be rigged without me in the hammock? I had it pretty tight, and when I was in the thing it sounded like the low E on a guitar.

[Catavarie]

I have a question, though. How tight should the ridgeline be rigged without me in the hammock? I had it pretty tight, and when I was in the thing it sounded like the low E on a guitar.

Before you get in you should be able to coil the ridgeline around your hand with ease. When you're in the hammock it should have enough flex for to be able to twist it at a 90* angle with your thumb and first two fingers. If you can start a funky band with your ridge line it is too tight. :cool:

[SFT2]

Before you get in you should be able to coil the ridgeline around your hand with ease. When you're in the hammock it should have enough flex for to be able to twist it at a 90* angle with your thumb and first two fingers. If you can start a funky band with your ridge line it is too tight. :cool:

Cool, thanks. I'll set it up like that this weekend. I'm guessing the slings on the trees will have to be about 6' off the ground to give me about 6" off the ground while unconscious, assuming the trees are 20'-21' apart like the front yard. Just need to fetch some welded rings and rated biners tomorrow. Actually, skip the biners. I can just use the shackles in the Jeep. Less weight to haul around!

[Catavarie]

Cool, thanks. I'll set it up like that this weekend. I'm guessing the slings on the trees will have to be about 6' off the ground to give me about 6" off the ground while unconscious, assuming the trees are 20'-21' apart like the front yard. Just need to fetch some welded rings and rated biners tomorrow. Actually, skip the biners. I can just use the shackles in the Jeep. Less weight to haul around!

Dejoha's calculator (http://www.dejoha.com/projects/hammocks/hammock-hang-calculator.html) can help you figure out how high to hang your straps to attain the proper 30* angle for your tree distance and prefered height off the ground.

[mrmike65]

Headchange4u, I liked your idea enough to buy 30' of Amsteel Blue. But instead of descending rings, I used caribiners tied into my ridgeline rather than onto the cinch cords of my hammock. That gives me handy hooks for my hammock, bug net, underquilt, pack, and other gear. I'm thinking now that I will add some smaller, non-loadbearing caribiners farther out on the ridge line to clip my tarp to. Everything is easily adjusted. Thanks for the great idea!

[Timmer]

try this one tank29. I was very pleased and I believe the discount code still works http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/showthread.php?t=11819

Yes the discount code still works.

[Captain Smiley]

Headchange4u, I liked your idea enough to buy 30' of Amsteel Blue. But instead of descending rings, I used caribiners tied into my ridgeline rather than onto the cinch cords of my hammock. That gives me handy hooks for my hammock, bug net, underquilt, pack, and other gear. I'm thinking now that I will add some smaller, non-loadbearing caribiners farther out on the ridge line to clip my tarp to. Everything is easily adjusted. Thanks for the great idea!

I was just going to suggest that this may work as an all inclusive setup by adding the tarp to the combo, I'm glad the idea is not an exclusive one. It shows already that it may be a good one. Would like to see pictures if you could get this setup together.

[BearChaser]

Having it as an all in one is the way to go. It's fast and easy to setup, Once. The only problem, which really isn't a problem, is that tarp tie out tensioners are required somewhat. I have tested it with a sil tarp without them, but it requires allot of getting in & out of the hammock to stretch everything out the best you can. When you get it, everything stays for the most part tight, they are almost mandatory for CF tarps. I end up using the tensioners just to make things quick & easy, they do come at a 4oz. penalty though. I go back & forth between the SLS & normal way, just depends on my mood and trip. I do like the speed of setup though.

Things I have noticed since using this system.
Advantages

Speed, you visit each tree one time to hook up your straps.
Ease of use, your tarp is always centered above the hammock.
Comfort, you get the same lay each time.
Weather, when its raining cats & dogs, your only in the rain one time to hook up your tree straps & tie out the tarp. Once that is done, no need to go back out in it to hook up additional straps for the hammock or adjust the lay. You can hook it while under the cover of tarp. You can also leave it in your pack while you cook or do whatever under cover. When your ready, just hook in.

Disadvantages

Weight, because you use allot more of the larger size rope plus the need for tensioners. It's not much, mine weighs in at just over 2 oz. for the SLS alone. Each tensioner (mine anyway) 1oz. x4 = 4oz. So for the SLS to work the way I like, 6oz. That doesn't include the straps, which you need in any system, nor does it include the 2 0.16oz Biners I use to clip in my hammock.


Other notes

Distance between trees. Thought I would mention it. With the way my SLS is setup, I have to be careful not to get trees that are to close. With a normal setup, I can basically make sure the distance is wide enough for the tarp. But with the SLS It needs to by wider than my tarp plus my whoopie bury. But this also creates an advantage. Because the lay is not changed due to how high I set my straps, I can go greater distances between trees & not need a stepladder to hang my straps. I can hang my straps, setup the system, get in my hammock to stretch everything out, then tighten the whoopies again. This usually only takes one tightening to keep me high enough. But I can keep doing this, getting in/out/tightening until its perfect for most distances. 27', no problem.


Now with all this rambling I just did I have a couple more notes or disclaimers if you will. This is just what I have found using the system I made. Yours may be different, most are. You may have a smaller tarp, or more whoopies, or descender rings, whatever. So the advantages & disadvantages will differ. Like the tarp tensioners, yes, I could make lighter/smaller ones, but I like the way the ones I have tension. I could also just setup the system different, like tying the tarp out separate, but that gets rid of most things except comfort. If you interested in seeing how I made mine and what it looks like, Click this blue text (http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/showthread.php?t=32421) or the Single Line Hammock/Tarp Suspension below in my sig.

Later.

[Captain Smiley]

And then throw the whole mess in a bishop bag! Woohoo!

[scottpash]

Thanks Now one more thing to consider before replacing my stock Suspension

[Grasshopper]

Question on the adjustable ridge line. I was looking at using most of this suspension on my ENO Double. But I don't use slings on the end. Could I use this idea... up until the rings. I like that thing I could use carabiners, line or whatever from that point. What I would like to do is use that point to put up a permanent ridge line so I get the same sag every time. I think that would be a structural ridge line. Also wondering if I could do a ridegline for this purpose to the stock carabiners on my eno. Any advice would be appreciated

[The Wolf in a Hammock]

Got the stuff, Amsteel blue, descending rings from REI and some DIY tree huggers, testing the system in the morning

[OddDuck]

Thanks for all the great ideas on suspensions lines! Just had my first outing ever in my hammock and modded it to an SLS before I went. Will be changing over my sons hammock as well. This system is TOO easy to hang!

Since I am still using the stock HH tarp on my UB, I wanted to be as close to the line as possible, so I used alpine butterflies 104" apart on the main line with 7' whoopie loops on each end, 16" dual fixed loop Dynaglide connectors to gather the ends and Soft Shackles to hook the Dyna to the line. Easy-peasy.

It all worked like a charm and I stayed suspended, dry, and happy. :D

Thanks all!

[Grasshopper]

This is my take on the SLS. I like the base suspension on the original but I am going to use biners to tree straps. I also used a adjustable ridge line from the whoopieslings store instead of using the same line. Hopefully I can attach my guardian bug net and a tarp to prusiks on the whoopie slings to make this a all in one system and put it into a speed sack. These modifications are addictive

[iRokk]

So has anyone taken the OP's design and turned into an SLS with adjustable RL? Theoretically, couldn't you use a little more rope than he says, cut it somewhere above the hammock, bury one side through the other and have an adjusting tail like you would to make a whoopie sling? Then you'd have your SLS system and still be able to adjust your sag without having to untie the clovehitch! Maybe something to toy around with in the future, but for now I'll stick to separate whoopie slings.

[SFT2]

So has anyone taken the OP's design and turned into an SLS with adjustable RL? Theoretically, couldn't you use a little more rope than he says, cut it somewhere above the hammock, bury one side through the other and have an adjusting tail like you would to make a whoopie sling? Then you'd have your SLS system and still be able to adjust your sag without having to untie the clovehitch! Maybe something to toy around with in the future, but for now I'll stick to separate whoopie slings.

Mine's set up with lines connecting to rings on each end of the hammock with a long whoopie sling between the rings for a ridgeline. I have a sleeping bag that wraps around the hammock and without a removable ridgeline it was a huge pain to set up and tear down.

[ScottO]

So has anyone taken the OP's design and turned into an SLS with adjustable RL? Theoretically, couldn't you use a little more rope than he says, cut it somewhere above the hammock, bury one side through the other and have an adjusting tail like you would to make a whoopie sling? Then you'd have your SLS system and still be able to adjust your sag without having to untie the clovehitch! Maybe something to toy around with in the future, but for now I'll stick to separate whoopie slings.

I use a single line suspension with adjustable ridgeline on my hammocks. It is somewhat similar to the OP's setup, except I don't use the clovehitch. I just run the line from my hammock, up to a tree hugger, back down to my hammock, across, through the ring on the other side of the hammock, to the other treehugger, then back to the hammock to tie off. With this set up, I can re-center the hammock (by sliding back and forth), and adjust overall tension/sag, by adjusting just the one line. It does require about 30' of line for this set up.

[iRokk]

ScottO, how do you lock your hammock in place with that design; it sounds like it would move around pretty freely.

[ScottO]

I have sewn loops at the end of my treehuggers. I stick a bight of the SLS through the treehugger loop and lock it in with a toggle (looks like a marlinspike hitch, but works a little different). The nice part is that to take the hammock down, just pull the toggles, and the hammock/suspension is disconnected from the treehuggers. I've been meaning to post pics of my set up....just can't seem to find the time to tackle it...

[Morgoroth]

Sorry, I didn't read all 10 pages, so if this has been mentioned I'll just delete this post.

Could you eliminate the rings in this set up and use a prusik knot to attach the amsteeled ends of the hammock to the main line?

Then it would be adjustable with very little gear and less weight.
Technically the RL is not adjustable here though. But it should have the same effect right?

[ScottO]

Could you eliminate the rings in this set up and use a prusik knot to attach the amsteeled ends of the hammock to the main line?

I think the bugger that most run into with prusiks is that you need to prusik a smaller line to a larger (main support) line. It'll work, but then you're carrying heavier main suspension line, offsetting the benefit....cruel, cruel world...

[dirtwheels]

Headchange, as I 'm a newbie, I have no real experience but have made a tablecloth hammock and tried 2 suspension types. When I hear single line suspension, I think of a single line connecting to the connection points at the tree straps. But when I look at the pics I see that you have double lines connecting to each descending ring and a single line extending between the rings. There appears to be little material, thus weight difference between your single line and whoppies with a fixed ridgeline.

I don't have amsteel yet but have installed a couple of D rings in my office to try out hanging. So far I've slept in a hammock for the last 7 days. And after changing to my version of the single line, I had the best nights rest yet. I only had utility cord (REI) rated @ 400#, so I doubled it in consideration of breakage at the knots, and attached one end via larks head to one D ring, and snugged the other end thru a carabiner with a few overlapping wraps with a slippery half hitch. The span between the D rings is 12'2", the hammock is 116" and the distance between the rings is 100". I used Grizz's simple wrap technique to secure the rings on the single line and from the rings to the larks head on the whipping is 5.25". My D rings in the walls are @ 5' so I can't get the descender rings much closer than 98" before I'm on the ground. Boy I wished I'd put those higher!

My questions are:

1) Why is there a need to secure the single line at the descender rings? To stay dry under the tarp for adjustment in rain?

2) What is the "normal" or average height for the tree strap since the 5' mark is putting me so close to the ground?

3) How much does the amsteel stretch? The utility cord seems to have a good bit of stretch and I wanted to see what to expect with amsteel.

4) When using the SLS do you secure the tarp above or below the tree straps? How far?

5) When selecting a tarp should I look for one that can be hung w/out a ridgeline to minimize the potential for water to follow the ridgeline under the tarp?

Thanks for the write up, I feel like I'm going to hammock school here!

[Morgoroth]

I'll answer the one I know.



3) How much does the amsteel stretch? The utility cord seems to have a good bit of stretch and I wanted to see what to expect with amsteel.




It doesn't. In my limited experience with AmSteel it's pretty much steel cable in disguise.

[doctor patches]

1) Descender rings are how you adjust the angle of your hang. They're an improvised cinch buckle that go taught under tension. For a diagonal hang you want about 30* between the drape of your hammock and parallel with the ground. Easy way to approximate is to take your index finger and thumb and make a "gun" or the letter "L", the angle from your thumb (vertical) and index finger (horizontal) is about 30*.

2) if you're at 5' and you're still hitting the ground, adjust your angle by shortening your suspension.

3) Amsteel doesn't stretch, one of its highly sought after qualities.

4) I'm not sure if SLS changes anything, most people have their hammock anchor higher than their tarps.

5) tie little tails onto the ridgeline, outside of how you're connecting the tarp to the RL, to direct water away. But this shouldn't happen much with a tarp line as it should be fairly straight, the hammock suspension will trail water a lot more.

[doctor patches]

Could you eliminate the rings in this set up and use a prusik knot to attach the amsteeled ends of the hammock to the main line?

I think the bugger that most run into with prusiks is that you need to prusik a smaller line to a larger (main support) line. It'll work, but then you're carrying heavier main suspension line, offsetting the benefit....cruel, cruel world...

Or just wrap the prusik an extra turn or two to increase the surface for "bite". The problem arises when the prusik material can't turn tight enough for the smaller diameter line. An extra turn will help with that.

[dirtwheels]

I didn't think it did, that would help!


I'll answer the one I know.




It doesn't. In my limited experience with AmSteel it's pretty much steel cable in disguise.

[dirtwheels]

Dynaglide? 1.75 mm is rated over 1K #'s, would be smaller than a 7/64th's SLS wouldn/t it?


Could you eliminate the rings in this set up and use a prusik knot to attach the amsteeled ends of the hammock to the main line?

I think the bugger that most run into with prusiks is that you need to prusik a smaller line to a larger (main support) line. It'll work, but then you're carrying heavier main suspension line, offsetting the benefit....cruel, cruel world...

[dirtwheels]

1) Descender rings are how you adjust the angle of your hang. They're an improvised cinch buckle that go taught under tension. For a diagonal hang you want about 30* between the drape of your hammock and parallel with the ground. Easy way to approximate is to take your index finger and thumb and make a "gun" or the letter "L", the angle from your thumb (vertical) and index finger (horizontal) is about 30*.

In an earlier post someone state with with SLS the 30* rule of thumb did not really apply. I'm guessing that's due to the drop from the rings and the fact that the majority of the hangers weight is not transmitted thru the hammock. I'm thinking that the physics of the SLS is much more like a clothesline, i.e. the clothes or weight hanging from 2 support point from the weight bearing line and the traditional hammock hang method with/out a ridge line would be like trying to hang a wet shirt from a broken clothesline. The weight of the wet garment would not allow the use of clothes pins and require a more secure method of attachment since the weight is being transmitted thru the garment.


2) if you're at 5' and you're still hitting the ground, adjust your angle by shortening your suspension.

I did that by a couple of inches and I think I gained a fraction of that in clearance. And since I found a very comfortable channel and I was so close to the floor I thought that would be a good place to leave it since a flaw in my workmanship would only drop me a few inches!! :D


4) I'm not sure if SLS changes anything, most people have their hammock anchor higher than their tarps.

Is there a rule of thumb as to how much higher?

5) tie little tails onto the ridgeline, outside of how you're connecting the tarp to the RL, to direct water away. But this shouldn't happen much with a tarp line as it should be fairly straight, the hammock suspension will trail water a lot more.[/QUOTE]

THANKS!

[doctor patches]

You're right with SLS for your hammock, the line will sag. No idea how to get the proper angle other than by trial and error, or measure the angle of the attachment point to a parallel from the ground. Another thing you could do is keep a ridgeline attached to the two ends as a "guide" for your angle, this would be useful for SLS and traditional suspension.

No rule of thumb for the gap. It depends on your angle of hang. Some people hang at a higher angle, or if you use SLS you will need to anchor higher to compensate for the sag, etc. The length of the space between anchor trees will impact this as well. It's a bit of trial and error to figure out your specific setup.

[ScottO]

Dynaglide? 1.75 mm is rated over 1K #'s, would be smaller than a 7/64th's SLS wouldn/t it?

Yep...that's smaller. I think it could work, but I would be concious about what knots you use. I might recommend checking out the double dragon knot for making loops- I think it weakens line less than other knots.

Keep in mind too the load sharing quality of SLS. Not sure what your set up is, but with my SLS, I have "two" lines on each side of the hammock sharing the load (one going from hammock up to treehugger, then its coming back down to hammock before crossing over). More food for thought

[ScottO]

Or just wrap the prusik an extra turn or two to increase the surface for "bite". The problem arises when the prusik material can't turn tight enough for the smaller diameter line. An extra turn will help with that.

True, but amsteel and dynaglide are slick materials. If you hang a taut line then try to keep a hammock in place, my guess is that the knots will start to slide towards each other, even with an extra wrap.

[doctor patches]

True, but amsteel and dynaglide are slick materials. If you hang a taut line then try to keep a hammock in place, my guess is that the knots will start to slide towards each other, even with an extra wrap.

I wouldn't use prusiks to hang a hammock on a SLS, I'd use descender ring or some other hardware to hang it. That way the hardware is mechanically binding the material and won't slip.

[Bitts]

Actually I've found both constrictor & klemheist to work quite well on sls.

http://www.animatedknots.com/klemheist/klemheist.jpg

my constrictor based sls with klemheist backups

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-UJfc8ZCqVM4/TyWomAXxmtI/AAAAAAAAF0o/djGa3HCBXpU/s640/CIMG3671.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-CLwYzMXAG5I/TyWofplS2yI/AAAAAAAAF0g/Yxz4_yqieo4/s640/CIMG3670.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-pypoux7NV9A/TyWoZADgczI/AAAAAAAAF0Q/34gLa0yqa74/s640/CIMG3668.JPG

[phred3512]

quite nice!

[Liberator8nine10]

I'm new and all, but looking at his design, couldn't you actually make an adjustable set up that could stay in place permanently? In this situation your ridge line determines the distance between the ends of your hammock, and therefore the angle or curve of your hammock, allowing you to consistently put up your preferred hammock curve each time you hang it, despite the distance between tree's... Right?

[olddog]

Yeap... My SLS is permanently attached to my tarp with attachment points for the hammock. The hammock is set for those attachment points. On arrival at site the tree huggers are hung, the SLS attached to the huggers, tightened and corners of the tarp anchored. Nice covered dry area to complete the rest of the setup. Hook the hammock to it's toggles, load and retighten the SLS. Mine is based loosely on BearChasher's design. http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/showthread.php?t=32421

[Michelle the Camper]

I really like the simplicity factor. Thanks for the clear description and photos. I'm going to try this!

[tgbrowning]

I ran into that problem with the clove hitch getting locked and came up with a quick solution not involving curses or screaming.

The image shows a pocket knife sharpener I bought Humptulips, WA last year. It has 3 ways to sharpen up a pocket knife quickly: a carbide V, a porcelain V and a little 2 inch steel. As you l can see, the steel is quite small but sturdy with nice point to it. Sliding the steel under the hitch is a snap and 1 quick twist does the job.

Browning>>>
(Besides, one can always use a sharper knife.)

[FPO]

The simplicity of this setup is incredible!

[.Tom.]

Thanks for sharing, gonna try this.

[kiwi]

if it was not for you guys us noobs would be in the dark thank you sir

[yessirre]

Gonna have to try an make one! the Pic's help me out alot!! thanks!!

[Bitts]

The down sides I found about having the attachment points fixed, or at least the one's I've found so far are. 1) I've set my system up with a 50 foot line to start & have extensions for when needed, so as to handle as many hangs as I can. So with out being able to move it along the line, I may not have a perfectly level lay. 2) I may not be able to take advantage of positioning the hammock along the line in an area out side of the trees canopy, so as to see the stars or avoid birds roosting for the night. Along the same thought I worry less about small branches falling from the tree. Even if you just use a prusik as your attachment point, it should work out better long term.

[MAD777]

.... or avoid birds roosting for the night.

Hammock nightmare!!! :eek:

[475068350]

Where can I find the rope used here in a 50 foot hank?

[gmcttr]

Where can I find the rope used here in a 50 foot hank?

Amsteel Blue (http://www.reddenmarine.com/samson-rope-amsteel-blue-foot.html)...use FREEXMAS as a discount code and get free shipping through 12/16/12.

[475068350]

Amsteel Blue (http://www.reddenmarine.com/samson-rope-amsteel-blue-foot.html)...use FREEXMAS as a discount code and get free shipping through 12/16/12.

Thanks. Got just what I needed.

[thebackupninja]

Amsteel Blue (http://www.reddenmarine.com/samson-rope-amsteel-blue-foot.html)...use FREEXMAS as a discount code and get free shipping through 12/16/12.

Thanks for posting the link. Was just to purchase a bit myself. Ready to try my hands at whoopee slings...

[hikehunter]

I like the set-up. I use the rings in almost the same way. I made my own whoopi type slings using "mule tape" a 2000lbs. poly-nylon flat rope used by the electrical underground
industry to pull long heavy cable thru conduit. mule tape is half an inch wide and and 1/8 inch thick. It does not work well as a tree hugger...it snags on the bark.

[mrmike65]

I just finished reading through all the posts in this thread (even my earlier!) and I have an idea that I'd like to run by folks.

The setup I'm thinking of using has a mainline of ~40' of 1/8" Amsteel, four nacrobiners (made from 1/8" Amsteel) and a set of tree straps.

My present hammock has an ideal hung spread of 85". So, I would tie two butterfly knots, centered on the line, so that the ends of hitching loops are 85" apart. That would allow me to hitch my hammock (using nacrobiners) to the loops on the butterfly knots at the same angle that I like. Since I'm establishing my ideal length between the ends of the hitching loops, I can play with the length of those loops to adjust how high the ridge line is above me (6" loops would put the ridgeline higher than 1" loops)

Next, On each end of the main line I would install what would end up being 4-5' whoopie sling loops. These would attach to the tree slings with the other set of nacrobiners.

Here's what I'm thinking:

1. I know that 85" is where I want to be, so why not make that static on an unstretchable line that is heavy enough to take some serious pull?

2. By putting in-line whoopie slings on each end, I have some play in length and for centering the hammock between hang points.

The only points that I still have questions about are the nacrobiners. All that I've read about them suggests they should be more than strong enough for the load, but I have yet to do any practical tests.

What are your thoughts on all of this? Do you think that a nacrobiner would be weaker than the mainline itself? Is 1/8" overkill and 7/64" should be heavy enough? Are there any reasons to not make the hitching points static, if I know what spread I need to get the sag I like?

[olddog]

mrmike. I did something that sounds similar to your description https://www.hammockforums.net/forum/showthread.php?t=59756&highlight=olddog%27s My hammock and huggers both use nacrobiners in the suspension with no problems. The main point to keep in mind about the SLS systems is that the loadings are much greater than other suspensions hanging at 30 degrees. MADD777 had been trying to impress on me the tremendous loads with the SLS and it didn't sink in until a poorly stitched hugger let loose. For attaching the hammock and tarp to the SLS I use a buried sliding loop, thought it was something new but as near as I can tell it's a UCR.

[mrmike65]

mrmike. I did something that sounds similar to your description https://www.hammockforums.net/forum/showthread.php?t=59756&highlight=olddog%27s My hammock and huggers both use nacrobiners in the suspension with no problems. The main point to keep in mind about the SLS systems is that the loadings are much greater than other suspensions hanging at 30 degrees. MADD777 had been trying to impress on me the tremendous loads with the SLS and it didn't sink in until a poorly stitched hugger let loose. For attaching the hammock and tarp to the SLS I use a buried sliding loop, thought it was something new but as near as I can tell it's a UCR.

Great info, olddog. I'll keep that all in mind as I explore this new rig. Thanks :)

[cv66seabear]

Nice post HC4U - I wish I'd read it before last night, when I used up all my amsteel making a different type of suspension... Oh well, Scott won't mind another order, I'm sure!

[Cursnfurs]

so was wondering who all was still using the sls and if there was any signs of amsteel weakening area of the metal ring

[olddog]

Cursnfurs. I'm still using my version of a SLS but I don't use any hardware. It is an adaption somewhere between headchange4u's and bearchasher's. With any SLS be aware that you will be placing greater loads on the trees than you would with the 'conventional' systems. I would never attach to a 3" to 4" tree with shallow roots in soft or moist soils. They may come over on you. What I see as the primary benefit of my SLS is that the tarp is attached to the SLS and it can be hung independently for rain protection and the hammock hung later. There is a link to my version of a SLS a couple of post back.

[Mikeinajeep]

I started another thread before I saw this one. I figured out how to sls with one point of adjustment and easy slack and ridgeline control.

Check out "I think I did it"!

[Cursnfurs]

was wondering if instead of amsteel could dynaglide be used in place of

[goanywhere]

As a noob to hammock hanging, I've read this whole thread through, and have gone from... 'Wow that looks great', to 'Wow that looks great too', to 'now I'm confused', to 'I think I'll just stick to my own method'. But then again I'm already on my third system in just a few weeks. :rolleyes:

I honestly think that any of us can come up with a hundred different ways to hang a hammock that will all work, and we'll all change our system a dozen times before we come up with the best system for us individually. And then we'll change it again!

Do we all have just too much time on our hands? :D

[olddog]

As a noob to hammock hanging, I've read this whole thread through, and have gone from... 'Wow that looks great', to 'Wow that looks great too', to 'now I'm confused', to 'I think I'll just stick to my own method'. But then again I'm already on my third system in just a few weeks. :rolleyes:

I honestly think that any of us can come up with a hundred different ways to hang a hammock that will all work, and we'll all change our system a dozen times before we come up with the best system for us individually. And then we'll change it again!

Do we all have just too much time on our hands? :D

I tried 10 or 12 different fold/pleat methods for gathered ends in one day. It's just that new toy syndrome. And then I started on suspensions, UQ's, TQ's, etc. No, not too much time, for me it's too little. Enjoy the ride.

[deutschland Sprott]

That helped thanks.

[Ghillieshot]

Sweet. Will have to give this a try. Thanks man.

[natefoo]

Awesome writeup, laid out perfectly and easy to understand!

[Womble]

I realized today that the Exped Ergo Combi hammock uses the SLS basics.

http://youtu.be/sHzkIsRY-dI

I feel like trying a daisy-chain / dogbone combination, where the dogbone is just a little longer than the tarp.

[jersey]

olddog after reading through quite a bit, an adjustment idea came up. Yes, I am new, so bear with me...

Instead of burying your foot-end loop into the SLS, what if the SLS was inside of a foot-end constrictor?

Locked brummel 3-4 inch loop for hammock connection, 12 inches of constrictor (safety), then a smaller loop again locked brummel. Both loops would hang under the SLS and no loose ends of the constrictor would interfere with adjustment as they would be buried. Maybe even a triple pass through instead of just two on the brummels??

The differing lengths of head and foot loops can be easily made up with different lengths of nacribiners. The foot-end loop on this would be a bit longer due to the locked brummel.

The head would always be fixed for set-up, but the foot end can be adjusted for different hammocks or differnet angles, etc..

[olddog]

Welcome aboard jersey. I've been here over 2 years and still feel like a newbie at times. The buried loop was something I thought was new until it was pointed out that it was just a UCR. Working with some aging mental capacity here but visualizing the loop with constrictor around the SLS sounds great. My loops are fixed since I use the same hammock and don't need to adjust. I have found on my present hang, every night for 1 1/2 months, that the only 2 trees close to the RV are at my maximum span with the SLS and short of a step ladder I can't get the huggers high enough up the tree to keep my butt off the ground unless I sacrifice sag. My only option is to remove the buried loops and reposition to affect the sag. With your loops around the SLS adjustment would be simple. Thankfully my system is in constant flux and subject to be altered at any time. Will be looking at incorporating some of your idea.

Thanks for joining in with your ideas. This is what keeps the forum alive and growing.

[paddlemule]

I'm new here and happen to be a rock climber from years past. I'm intruiged by the simplicity of these setups but worry about the forces involved. Anybody care to straighten me out on this? The following video is for reference.

Mule(different mule but that's what they call me)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BHrntrFDiWE

[MDSH]

I'm new here and happen to be a rock climber from years past. I'm intruiged by the simplicity of these setups but worry about the forces involved. Anybody care to straighten me out on this? The following video is for reference.

Mule(different mule but that's what they call me)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BHrntrFDiWE

I don't know what algorithm was used to create this calculator but it cannot account for the differences in angles created by the structural ridge line nor the distribution of loads through the multiple points of the hammock itself, which contains curves: http://theultimatehang.com/hammock-hang-calculator/ It is probably a simple three-point vector description as you demonstrated in the video and would thus be conservative, which is good.

It's a certainty, though, that in hanging a hammock the forces are multiplied at angles shallower than about 30* -- one can feel the structural ridge line begin to tighten at that point, which means it is taking up load or "working" in terms of physics. So, a SLS forsakes fiddling with angles, assumes the line will bear the whole load, and overcomes forces by the brute strength of the line.

The distance between trees, their size, and placement are the greatest variables in the woods; so, suspension is the greatest challenge, especially if one is trying to achieve an UL pack weight.

In another thread fallkniven spoke of using prussics for a gear hammock.

This has caused me to re-think the SLS ... once again!

.

[bruinfan]

Mule(different mule but that's what they call me)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BHrntrFDiWE

great video dude. thanks for sharing
makes sense

[Teach_em]

Hello all. I've been checking out HF for a long time and have synthesized many of others' methods and suggestions into my own SLS. The system I use borrows heavily from HC4U and from BearChaser:
1. Old seat belt tree hugger with marlinespike toggle at one end.
2. 7/64 Amsteel spliced loop over marlinespike.
3. Old seat belt tree hugger with marlinespike using a carabiner as a toggle at the other end.
4. Suspension line looped back and forth a few times through carabiner and steel ring clove hitched to suspension; tied off with series of slippery half hitches.
5. Two toggles marlinespiked a set distance apart acting as "stopper" knots.
6. End channels of ENO DN gathered with long soft shackles; soft shackled directly to suspension line at marlinespike "stoppers."
7. Tarp (DIY Tyvek) usually stays attached to suspension with prussiked shock cord.

A few questions for the community:
1. Is there a better knot for the steel ring than a clove hitch? I've tried the several-turns-around-the-ring method, but it still slides when tightening the suspension. And the clove hitch is not as easily adjustable for distance between trees as my inherent laziness dictates.

2. How tight should the suspension line be before hanging the hammock? I know Amsteel is strong, but it still gives me pause when I can "twang" the ridgeline above my head like a guitar string. But with less tension, there seems to be a big difference between the unloaded and loaded height above ground.

3. Can anyone suggest a different method of hanging the hammock that might be more easily adjusted? I tried prusiks but they slip on the Amsteel (and one spot looks almost melted as a result). The toggled marlinespikes work well, but require that I first hang the suspension loosely, adjust and set the toggles, then tighten everything up, load the hammock, and retighten.

I've only been hammocking a short time so I don't consider my self well-hung :rolleyes:, but I've been studying the posts like it was for a dissertation. It's actually nice to post, instead of simply consuming.

[Teach_em]

So I just had a random thought about the SLS. Would it be possible to use a softshackle or a prussik to attach the hammock to the SLS, thereby doing away with the rings and their associated weight?

Assuming of course that you use cordage rated to handle the weight.


I'm sure this is probably a bad idea, just hoping someone smarter than me can tell me why. :D

I don't know if it's a bad idea and never thought to ask. I'm new to this too and do use that method (at least until someone tells me I'm courting death to do so). I bought 60' of 7/64 Amsteel from ebay and used 30' for my suspension. The rest I've been playing with splicing. I made two 10" soft shackles and used them to replace the end-channel ropes (is that the right terminology?) in my ENO doublenest. I tied a couple of marlinespikes in the suspension to act as stoppers and soft-shackled directly to the suspension. Seemed to work in my yard...

[olddog]

I've been using soft shackles for over a year with no problems. Two are used to attach the tree huggers back on itself and two are used to attach the hammock ends to the hammock suspensions. Here is the link to my version of a UCR/SLS. https://www.hammockforums.net/forum/showthread.php?79688-Another-UCR-SLS At this point the only hardware I use are the four stakes.

[JCinPA]

Noob here with question about this SLS stuff. I think I want to do this because I want a structural ridgeline, but as a new hanger I don't know how long I want it. Why I am posting is I notice this thread has not had traffic in about a year, although it has been active since 2008. It seems most folks like attaching their ridgeline directly to the hammock then hanging the hammock with separate end systems and I am wondering why this is. It seems like a lot of extra work compared to this elegantly simple system. Starts at 4:10 in this video by Grizz.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?x-yt-ts=1421914688&v=IGRAnzEoXZI&x-yt-cl=84503534#t=252


I have the Amsteel and tree straps all I need to do this are two descender rings. I like the concept very much, but before ordering the rings I want to know if this is still in use by some of you folks with good results.

I also have a couple questions about the ridgeline length and sag. I am guessing with this system I'd have to add 8-12 inches to the ridgeline length as opposed to a ridgeline that is tied directly into the hammock because of the extra length introduced by the short line and ring?? Is this correct?

And what happens as sag is increased or decreased? I have read that too tight keeps you in the middle and you get the banana effect with shoulder squeeze. As sag increases, you can lay more diagonally and get a flatter lie, but is there a limit to that? I understand 83% of hammock length is a good start.

I have a Grand Trunk Double which is 126" long with a sewn channel. I will put 8" continuous loops in it with the descender rings, and if that adds, say, 6" per side, I want to start with about 114" between the wraps on the descender rings? Am I thinking that through correctly? I'll measure the line plus ring and if it's 4" or something else, I'll adjust accordingly, but I want to use the 83% rule with the length from ring-to-ring in this setup?

Thanks! You folks all are very good at making this stuff simple for us noobs.

[Teach_em]

JC, welcome! This past camping season, I made a change to my system and am very happy with the results. I have poly straps with loops sewn into the ends. I just wrap, thread one end through the loop and attach a biner via a marlinespike. This way I can minimize the length of the webbing.

To that, I clip my Amsteel line, run it across to the other tree, and tighten by passing through the biner marlinespiked to the other strap, back through a descender, then back through the biner again. This makes a nice easy pulley system to adjust tightness. Tarp, hammock (ENOUGH Double), and DIY bugnet are already attached to te line. My hammock is soft-shackled to the suspension line through a length of UCR at each end.

What this allows me to do is adjust the position and sag of the hammock when the line is already tight. My thoughts on ridgeline length are that a couple inches of variance will not likely make that much difference. I just eyeball it to 30 degrees each time.

This system also allows me to hang asymmetrically between trees, closer to one than the other, if necessary without having to raise the far strap much higher.

I'll post pics when I can. I'm a huge fan of the SLS so far. With this all-in-one system, I can go from hiking in the rain to lying under a tarp is around 3 minutes.

[bowl-maker]

OK...I've read and re-read, and revisited this subject from time to time over the years. I can't figure out if what I am proposing has already been proposed and discarded. What I envision is a length of Amsteel attached to trees at either end by your attachment of choice. Already connected to the Amsteel is two 12" lengths of "sheathing" Amsteel at either end with locked brummels at either end of each sheath. Attach the hammock to a brummels with a soft shackle, adjust the brummel by sliding the sheath along the suspension line, and you're done. Please let me know what you think...

102166

[MAD777]

Looks nice and simple and clean, however, you will be constantly changing the length of your ridgeline with each adjustment of the sheaths. That will change the comfort of the hammock lay. Also, the sheaths are UCR's which are notorious for letting go if the line is bumped. That can be solved with a prussik pulling on the far end of your sheath, but that's adds another component.

[bowl-maker]

I think the movement of the sheaths is more to take into account different distances between trees while still maintaining an appropriate hang angle.

[Teach_em]

That sounds exactly like my setup. But my sliding UCRs aren't 12". They may be 3-4" and haven't slipped yet. I have my ENO Double soft shackled through an eye in the UCR on each end and also OVER the suspension line. That way the UCR is tensioned in line with the suspension and not being pulled open at an angle from the suspension.

[tobiusnc]

JC, welcome! This past camping season, I made a change to my system and am very happy with the results. I have poly straps with loops sewn into the ends. I just wrap, thread one end through the loop and attach a biner via a marlinespike. This way I can minimize the length of the webbing.

To that, I clip my Amsteel line, run it across to the other tree, and tighten by passing through the biner marlinespiked to the other strap, back through a descender, then back through the biner again. This makes a nice easy pulley system to adjust tightness. Tarp, hammock (ENOUGH Double), and DIY bugnet are already attached to te line. My hammock is soft-shackled to the suspension line through a length of UCR at each end.

What this allows me to do is adjust the position and sag of the hammock when the line is already tight. My thoughts on ridgeline length are that a couple inches of variance will not likely make that much difference. I just eyeball it to 30 degrees each time.

This system also allows me to hang asymmetrically between trees, closer to one than the other, if necessary without having to raise the far strap much higher.

I'll post pics when I can. I'm a huge fan of the SLS so far. With this all-in-one system, I can go from hiking in the rain to lying under a tarp is around 3 minutes.


This is very similar to the suspension system I've been contemplating, and haven't been able to find many examples online, so I'm wondering if there was a problem I wasn't seeing. My thought is a very tight line, with fixed hammock tie points (using alpine butterfly loops). I'm new to hanging, so maybe I'm making some bad assumptions:
- For a given hammock, once I dial in a structural ridgeline length I like, it isn't affected by setup location/distance between trees. (it doesn't change)
- With a structural ridgeline, the 30 degree hang angle no longer really applies (at least it has nothing to do with angle of the end attachment.)

Here's the setup I envision. Several feet of amteel with tarp and hammock attached. Tree straps with loops at both ends. Loop around tree, pass end through loop and tie one end of amsteel to loop in tree strap. Same thing on other end, but use truckers/mccarthy hitch and make it very tight. Tarp is already mounted and should be tight on the ridgeline, so just tie out corners of tarp and done. It seems like this would remove nearly all the fiddling once the setup was dialed in. (ie, fiddle in the backyard, not in the woods). It could be made easier by using something like a garda hitch and descender rings on both ends to allow easy adjustment of hammock position at the expense of some weight.
PLEASE weigh in if there's something I've obviously overlooked here. I haven't tried this yet, but plan to soon.

[Teach_em]

I would advise against a truckers hitch to tighten your main suspension line. I've found them to bind after considerable loading. I don't worry about the overall tension. I used a game scale on one end and after tightening and loading it only registered 320 lbs. but the truckers hitch lip used bind and really require some serious pulling to undo.
I also found it easier to adjust the tarp/hammock along the suspension rather than adjusting at the tree straps. I used to use climbing 'biners with a few turns of suspension line wrapped around. They were easy to slide once tension was released. But now my UCR loops can be adjusted even while the suspension is under tension.
The weather is finally nice so maybe I'll have an opportunity to take some pics and post.

[Bcarrawa]

Not long ago, while lying in my hammock, I had an idea for a suspension system. It's a kind of hodge podge of features from different systems with a new twist: the ability to adjust the ridge line length/ hammock sag on the fly. I'm calling it the Single Line Suspension (SLS).

The reason that I'm referring to it as the SLS is because the suspension lines and the ridge line are all one long piece of cord. The system is very similar to the Trucker's Hitch suspension (http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/showthread.php?t=3762&highlight=trucker%27s+hitch), in that it uses tree huggers and a pair of the SMC descending rings. It's also a very light system at 4.8 oz for 50' total of Amsteel Blue and 2 descending rings. The tree huggers I am using for this writeup add an additional 2.8oz but I plan on making a lighter set in the near future.



Materials needed for this project:

~50' of a single braid rope (45' for the main line and 5' for the hammock lines). Amsteel 12 or Amsteel Blue recommended, available here (http://www.apsltd.com/Tree/d3000/e827.asp).
2 X SMC descending rings (http://www.smcgear.net/images/uploads/PDFS/prod_44_SMC%20Descending%20Ring.pdf)
2 X Tree huggers

For this suspension I am again using the 3mm Amsteel Blue for the main line (2500 breaking strength, .08 oz per ft). The total length on the main line is 45'. I came up with 45' by assuming that I would need about 15' of suspension line on each end of the hammock, and I also took into account the normal length of my ridge lines (approx 101"). I then added a few extra feet of line 'just in case'. You can always trim off extra line but it's hard to add needed length.

I HIGHLY recommend using a single braid line for this project, something like Amsteel Blue of the Amsteel 12. The reason I am calling for the use of single braid line is because of the use of clove hitches (http://www.apparentwind.com/knots/clove-hitch/) in the suspension system. I have found that a clove hitch will tend to lock when using a double braid and it very hard to get undone. I have found that single braid lines with the Samthane coating like the Amsteel allow the clove hitch to release, even after sleeping in the hammock overnight.

I installed this system on my ATHH hammock and used it on an overnight excursion and it worked very well. You could use this suspension on almost any type of non-spreader bar hammock but it works very well on hammocks with the channel sewn into each end, which would include HAAB style hammocks like ENO, TTTM, Trek Lite, Travel Hammock, etc and also hammocks like the Claytors. It even works on my Warbonnet El Dorado, although it moves the ridge line to the outside of the hammock instead of the internal ridge line (http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/showthread.php?t=2705&highlight=STRUCTURAL+WARBONNET) I am currently using.

The first step is to make a pair of hammock lines (HL). The HL consists of a 28" piece of rope that uses a Double Fisherman's Bend (http://www.animatedknots.com/doublefishermansrescue/index.php?LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.animatedknots.com) to form a loop. Once you have formed a loop, attach the line to the descending ring with a Lark's Head. I went with 28" because the stock line that I removed from the ATHH hammock was 32" but the diameter was much larger than the line I was using. I subtracted 4" to compensate for the smaller line. When you are finished you should have something that looks like this:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v704/headchange4u/SLS/SingleLineSuspension007.jpg

Besides the descending rings being the point that ties the main line and the HL together, I think it's gonna offer a couple more benefits. The rings will create a break in the path of any water that might be running down the suspension lines, helping to keep the hammock dry (in theory). I also think the rings will make great attachment points for things like hammock socks, bug netting, under quilts, weather shields, etc.

After you have made a pair of HLs, it's time to install them on the hammock. It's pretty easy to do. If you have a hammock that has the channel sewn into the end, simply passed the HL through the end of the hammock, pass the ring through the loop, and cinch it down tight:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v704/headchange4u/SLS/SingleLineSuspension023.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v704/headchange4u/SLS/SingleLineSuspension035.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v704/headchange4u/SLS/SingleLineSuspension041.jpg

If you are using a hammock that has whipped ends, like a DIY Speer-style hammock, just form a Lark's Head and cinch it right behind the whipping:
<pics coming>

Now that you have the HL attached to the hammock you are ready to add your Main Line (ML) that serves as both the ridge line and your suspension lines.The ML is attached to the rings with the clove hitch (http://www.apparentwind.com/knots/clove-hitch/). The clove hitch is what makes the system adjustable. You can see how to tie the clove hitch to the rings in these pics:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v704/headchange4u/SLS/SingleLineSuspension094.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v704/headchange4u/SLS/SingleLineSuspension097.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v704/headchange4u/SLS/SingleLineSuspension102.jpg

Here's a detail of the Clove hitch once it tightened down on the ring:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v704/headchange4u/SLS/SingleLineSuspension109.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v704/headchange4u/SLS/BT166.jpg

Although it's not shown in the pics, I used a Sharpie to mark the center of the ML. I also made marks 50.5" on each side of the center mark that gave me a guide to set the rings at 101", which is my normal ridge line length. You could make marks for different, pre-measured ridge line lengths if you wanted to experiment. Here's an example (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v704/headchange4u/SLS/25600b97.jpg) of how I positioned the ring right a one of the marks.

You are now ready to hang the hammock. Step 1 is to put the tree huggers on the tree. I am using the same trees huggers that I used for the Trucker's Hitch system:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v704/headchange4u/TruckersHitch012.jpg

Next take the line coming from the hammock and pass it through the tree hugger and then take it back down and pass it through the descending ring. This allows you to tighten the suspension just like the Trucker's Hitch, giving the 3:1 mechanical advantage:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v704/headchange4u/TruckersHitch025.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v704/headchange4u/SLS/SingleLineSuspension122.jpg

After passing the line through the ring take back up and pass it through the tree hugger again. In the past of would tie the knot at the ring, but I now tie it at the tree hugger for a couple of reasons. The first is because if you tie the knot at the tree hugger, it acts as a drip string and it also requires less rope because you don't have to take the line back down to the ring.

I first tie a slip knot then a half hitch to secure things:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v704/headchange4u/SLS/b38aafa2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v704/headchange4u/SLS/330faf6a.jpg

The coolest part about this suspension system is that it allows you adjust the sag of the hammock pretty quickly. It's kinda fun to play around with the sag in very small increments. You can adjust this thing an inch at a time to really dial in the comfort of the hammock. To adjust the the ridge line you first loosen the suspension. Once you have some slack in the suspension lines you can loosen the clove hitch and move the ring's position on the ML to lengthen or shorten the ridge line section, giving you more or less sag as needed.

In this first pic of me in the hammock the ridge line is set to my standard 101":
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v704/headchange4u/SLS/SingleLineSuspension136.jpg

Here is a pic of the ridge line set to about 80", giving the hammock a really deep sag. The sag was so much that I would have had to raise the tree huggers above my head to get in the hammock without my butt hitting the ground:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v704/headchange4u/SLS/19f3081c.jpg

Here's a shot with the ridge line at it's maximum length, with almost no sag in the unoccupied hammock.I went from a 80" ridge line length to a setup that has almost no sag at all and it took less than three minutes to adjust between the two.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v704/headchange4u/SLS/7dcb8fd2.jpg

Im really curious what kind of stitch you are using? Do you mind sharing?

[cv66seabear]

Ok I missed something, I thought at first you said you could adjust it while you were in your rack - but you adjust it by taking up slack or releasing tension at the ring on either end?

Really great write up and pictures! Thanks

[m0244]

I'm curious why the fisherman's knots as opposed to making a continuous loop on the descending ring? I assume the knots are bombproof compared to a short burry?

[tobiusnc]

I'm working on a modified SLS. Basic idea is a single line with whoopies at both ends. Now, to combat the minimum hang distance compromise with whoopie slings, I'm contemplating putting the whoopie sling bury inside the hammock hang points. It definitely changes the way the tension is applied to the outer sheath, but unless the structural ridge line portion is slack, there is still tension on both sides. Anyone ever tried this? Dangerous idea, or should it work? The bury could be much longer than a standard whoopie sling since the only compromise is more rope. Here's a very rough drawing of what I'm proposing. It's not clear from the drawing, but the hammock connection point is to the fixed side of the adjustable loop only.

110656

[Sansdaddo]

This looks pretty cool. Is there a reason you used the double fisherman's bend instead of splicing continuous loop for the hammock?

[Teach_em]

Tobi, how is your hammock connected to the SLS?

[tobiusnc]

Tobi, how is your hammock connected to the SLS?

My current setup is a knot (think stopper knot in a soft shackle) at the end of a section of rope that is spliced into the SLS using the method shown in this picture. I then larks head the continious loop of the hammock over the rope and the knot stops it from slipping off. I have amsteel continous loops, so it locks tightly, but it's kind of tough to undo after the hammock has been loaded, so I may go back to a fixed eye off the SLS and a soft shackle. I'd like to have some kind of buried loop like a soft shackle that locks around the knot, but I don't think the forces are in the proper directions for that to work.

BTW, my stopper knot is based on the stopper knot in this soft shackle.
http://www.bethandevans.com/pdf/improvedsoftshackle.pdf

Description of the splice into the main line.
110797

Picture of hammock larks headed to knot. (I'm holding the stopper knot, the hammock is to the lower right.)
110798

[ag1024]

At first I thought this was a taught line hitch. I tied this with a small rope, and it slips very easily. Then I tried a the taught line, and it held better. Can you share the advantage of this stopper knot?

[tobiusnc]

At first I thought this was a taught line hitch. I tied this with a small rope, and it slips very easily. Then I tried a the taught line, and it held better. Can you share the advantage of this stopper knot?

My goal was a way to connect amsteel of the same diameter as the main line without causing damage to the main line. When the tail is buried into the main line, it's almost impossible for it to slip. It is very similar to a taught line hitch, but burying the tail in the main line helps lock it into place. It's not intended to be adjustable. I was just trying to find a splice that would not move and cause the least amount of damage to the line. I need to use it for while then take it apart and inspect the line to see what it's doing to the line.

[Teach_em]

111179
This photo shows my sliding UCR attachment points for the hammock on the main suspension line. I just estimated the length of the UCR necessary. I think it's about 7 inches. Seems to work well and not slip. There's a taught-line hitch at the far end keeping the sheath tight, and a fixed eye loop where the hammock attaches. This allows very easy adjustability for differently spaced trees. I also like to slide the hammock toward one tree or the other for shade or if it looks like rain.

111180
Here you can see the soft shackle attachment to the sliding UCR. I loop the soft shackle through the fixed eye in the UCR then OVER the suspension line. This eliminates angular stress on the insertion point in the UCR and keeps all tension directly in line with the UCR.

111181
This shows the method I use to tension the main suspension line. The descender ring has 4-5 loops of amsteel to allow for adjustability but it remains static once tension is on the suspension. The SLS goes through a 'biner at the treehugger, back to the ring, then back through the 'biner again giving me a mechanical advantage for tensioning. I finish it off with several wraps around the 'biner and a few half-hitches.

This method has served me well over a few backpacking trips, including one in miserable rainy weather. I only need to retighten once. I string everything up, weight the hammock, then tighten.

[aero-hiker]

Nice setup Teach_em.

This might be a crazy idea, but have you ever tried a single line suspension system where you hang each end of the hammock from a descender ring with 4-5 wraps? In this fashion you could adjust the positioning of the hammock and the RL length by sliding the two rings along the continuous suspension line when the hammock is not under load. I'm concerned as to whether the descender rings would stay in place throughout the night. Has anyone tried this?

HC4U: have you tried replacing the clove hitches on the rings with just 4-5 wraps?

[Teach_em]

Aero,
I did try something like that in the early iterations of my system. Instead of rings, I used 'biners with 4-5 wraps. I abandoned it in favor of the UCRs because they can be adjusted while the suspension line is tight. No need to loosen, adjust, tighten, loosen, adjust, tighten, etc. Plus, it was fun tinkering with the Amsteel. In retrospect I think i should have used 1/8 Amsteel just for a little peace of mind. Maybe I'll pick some up and then have all that 7/64 to play with.

[GadgetUK437]

Nice thread, I totally missed this one!
Came up with my own SLS (didn't know what that meant) using a UCR/Whoopie combo (Whoo-CR)
Continuous-Suspension-Ridgeline-system-with-UCR-Whoopie-Combo (https://www.hammockforums.net/forum/showthread.php/116376-Continuous-Suspension-Ridgeline-system-with-UCR-Whoopie-Combo)

[Teach_em]

Gadget, I saw your videos while poking around for ideas and like the LoopAlien setup. I don't see the large LAs on his website anymore except the Ti version. Like the concept, don't like the $20 per unit on the large Ti Alien. Where/when did you get yours? Also saw in the video you have different colors? Anodized aluminum?

[aero-hiker]

FWIW I saw people selling knock offs somewhere, but I don't remember where... I hope the inventor got IP protection (patents, etc.)

[GadgetUK437]

Tricky to patent a single piece of metal.

The ChiCloneAliens I bought
Aluminium (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/131497570754?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)
$0.63 each
Size: 1.89 x 1.10 x 0.09" (48 x 28 x 2.5mm)
Weight: 3.4g (0.12oz)
tested to failure at 128kg (282lb)

Stainless Steel (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/291462181210?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)
$0.72 each
Size: 1.89 x 1.10 x 0.09" (48 x 28 x 2.5mm)
Weight: 12.5g (0.44oz)
tested to 450kg (992lb) [no failure, will do failure test soon]

[Teach_em]

Thanks, Gadget. That actually helps a lot. Been looking at the LoopAliens to replace the few Figure 9s I have rattling around in my gear. I don't like the teeth.

[Teach_em]

Ok, so the ever-evolving nature of my SLS is a study in punctuated equilibrium: long periods of stability followed by short bursts of frenetic tinkering followed by stability again. I separated my tarpans hammock suspensions then put them back together again. I now have a continuous ridgeline SLS for both hammock and tarp. The tarp is fixed in position over the hammock with a prusik at one end so I can adjust it as I slide the rig left or right to center it between the trees. The adjustable end of the hammock gets tightened with a LoopAlien knockoff and so far has held up very well. Will post pics soon but imagine: treehugger with marlinespike and carabiner. Amsteel suspension run through carabiner. CRL to opposite treehugger-carabiner back to LoopAlien on hammock and pulled tight. Everything is contained in one long snakeskin so deployment and pack-up are quick and easy, especially in rain. Will keep this method for a while, at least until I save enough for a HammockGear cuben Winter Palace.

[Theguywitheyebrows]

Definitely lightweight and gloriously adjustable. I recommend Some grapplers hitch's on the tree-End of the strap for ease of setup/breaking camp. I like that you hang on one piece of amsteel; i played with an idea for something like this, with prussics or klimhiests instead of decension rings. The clove-hitch-on-a-ring seems much more effective. A+ write-up, too!

[Sphinx]

Hmmmm this is pretty close to my continuous line i use for large span hangs.
When i want to pitch really long, i bring 60 feet of Amsteel 3/16 (might be overkill but i pull it bowstring tight). I attach it to one tree with double wrap and a quick release bowline, put a alpine butterfly where i want my head, then truckers hitch the line to my cinch belt (yes, the kind you wear) around the other tree. Then i use a continuous loop of 7/64 to make a Machard sliding loop to hook the foot end to. I love the Machard knot, its fast and easy to tie, i can adjust the hang length with ease, and it has never slipped on me. The only part that is even slightly hard to untie is the butterfly knot, which is still very doable even after loading. I would use two machard loops, but that would require 1 more piece of gear (i am a little bit obsessive about having as few pieces as possible).
I have a small hammock with carabiners through the ends, so it just hooks right onto the butterfly and the Machard.
My asym tarp has short, simple lines that tie right onto the ridgeline with Blakes Hitches, those slide and hold well enough for a tarp, and eliminate the need for loops or hardware.
I had to do some rope study to get the right knots but i love the simplicity of the kit. As long as i dont forget how to tie one of the 6 knots i'm all set :laugh:. The Mytholito Biners could be lighter but they are easy on the hammock and spread the ends a little bit, plus they take the place of continuous loops and whoopie hooks....so two less pieces.

*Edit. I just found out that a Machard is the same as a Klemheist, like the guy who posted right before me mentioned.*

[Theguywitheyebrows]

i was super impressed by there being a knot I hadn't heard of (which totally happens all the time) until i saw your edit lol. I planned on looking it up. the alpine butterfly loop is one of my top two favorite knots of ever. it can also be used to join two rope ends together fearlessly. what you describe is pretty close to what I had in mind, but I was fearful of the trees being damaged by the 1" straps as the only thing I had. if I plan to use that method I'll have some of the 2" straps. I was making grapplers hitches on the ends of my 12' tree straps the other day and failed miserably, but I want to make that happen, as it creates ease at a point of frustration for me. those grappler's hitches make the chore of ringing a tree with the straps so much easier, I think they're a nigh necessary component. they are added to something, it isn't an additional piece to loose. grappler's hitch on one end of both straps, CLs in the channels, toggles lay around any campsite. that's my whole setup. 2 12' straps reach my 99" SRL + 7" of CL (total) ≈ 106" (I'll have to check) from any of the trees I can make the hang from. Jbend and a thumb-thick stick, and instant serenity from a single stuffsack.

[Sphinx]

haha ya i did the same. i was reading backwards in the thread and saw that you had mentioned that knot so i looked it up. The blakes hitch is a badass knot i recently discovered. Like a slip and grip knot that doesnt require a loop, perfect for my tarp. I have never tried it for tying the hammock to the line, i kinda figured it wouldnt hold as well and i need a loop anyways.
I'm already sentimental about my new carabiners, i think they are here to stay. I had dutch hooks on continuous loops but they are always riding on that same tiny little spot in the loop unless i fidget with it every time. Plus they are mean to my hammock ends and create uneven tension. Biners make the hammock feel longer and softer and make a nice fat round surface for the line to go around.....that or it's strictly psychosomatic and i'm justifying using biners that weigh and cost more than my hammock. But if nothing else, they are undeniably sexy.
123735
Thats how i clip to my SLS.

[Theguywitheyebrows]

Lol so sexy. I like the CLs, I feel like its holding the hammock better. I tried my nano 23s through the channels and I just wasn't feelin it.

seems like that's a much better option for the SLS. I'm thinking about making that happen now on my next outing to the local park.

[briana26]

I hope it would be comfortable.

[OlTrailDog]

As I've been reading this I've been thinking how I am going to apply this to my Luke's 90 degree hammock as well as adding a ridge line to hang things on in my WBRR. Luke took his idea to Exped and worked with them on developing the Ergo.

[briana26]

That's a good work.

[jadekayak]

I found that if you cut the end slightly concave before gathering you can hang very flat and minimize shoulder squeeze.

It also works good with a loose hang.

This may not be a good thing but it does work well.

[GadgetUK437]

Biners make the hammock feel longer and softer and make a nice fat round surface for the line to go around.....that or it's strictly psychosomatic and i'm justifying using biners that weigh and cost more than my hammock. But if nothing else, they are undeniably sexy.
123735
Thats how i clip to my SLS.
Have you got pictures of your hammock set up? I would like to see how your biners lie in the end channel when the hammock is loaded.
I have some Elderid nineteen G climbing krabs, so two of those would only add 38g to my hammock!

--
Gadget.

[campacker]

This design seems kinda interesting. Maybe I'm missing something, but if there is a failure in one area doesn't that ruin the whole system requiring a full replacement?

[gsjkih89]

Thus far into my hammock expeditions this is my favorite setup. Easiest to adjust to get the right lay and easiest to setup. I prefer it over the whoopee slings I've made and you can be as high off the ground as you please with whatever tree distance you have. Optionally add a small zing it Ridgeline if you put a rainfly over it.

[jadekayak]

How are you getting 2500 lbs breaking strain from 3mm dyneema.

3mm sk75 is rated at 1000kgs breaking strain which is 2200lbs.

Are you sure it is 3mm

1/8" is slightly larger than 3mm which could account for an extra 300lbs breaking strain

[jadekayak]

YES.

rather an expensive option in New Zealand at $5 per meter.

We all have our favorite system based on our needs

[regnaD_kciN]

As a noob to hammock hanging, I've read this whole thread through, and have gone from... 'Wow that looks great', to 'Wow that looks great too', to 'now I'm confused', to 'I think I'll just stick to my own method'. But then again I'm already on my third system in just a few weeks. :rolleyes:

I honestly think that any of us can come up with a hundred different ways to hang a hammock that will all work, and we'll all change our system a dozen times before we come up with the best system for us individually. And then we'll change it again!

Do we all have just too much time on our hands? :D

Maybe. Or maybe, finally, entering a phase in my life where I can finally learn a few things, try some creative adaptations in my life, that was put on hold as I raised a few kids, and finally build the fort I always wanted in my backyard and even out in the woods.

[Theguywitheyebrows]

Maybe. Or maybe, finally, entering a phase in my life where I can finally learn a few things, try some creative adaptations in my life, that was put on hold as I raised a few kids, and finally build the fort I always wanted in my backyard and even out in the woods.
I like KNOWING the many different options there are out there to ensure i can hang wherever i find myself. Straps with j-bends, dutch hooks on whoopies, dutchbuckles, the grappler, soft shackles, ucr ridgelines, sls, one tree suspension, bushcraft paired tri-pods, whittled anchor pegs, groundhog stakes, boom stakes, peapods....i can hang between two truck hitches with diy lashed-stick bi-pods keeping me up, i am fairly certain i will never sleep on the ground again THANKS TO ALL OF OUR CONTROBUTING MEMBERS' DESIRE TO SHARE THIS KNOWLEDGE \m/

[GoneShootn]

Great write-up! If I could, I would give it 5 stars for great information, originality, clarity, attention to detail, and nice, hairy legs. ;-)

[Rosey-yyc]

okay, have read back a page or two and haven't seen any comments on this yet, apologies if it's already been covered, so here it is:

SLS set up using 15' x 2" UHWMP tree straps with an Evo loop at the tree end as a soft shackle, then a mini Evo loop for a tarp line attachment point using a prussic and then an Evo loop at the Hammock end using either a larkshead or a prussic , tied off with a beckett hitch.

The tarp line is about 15' long with a loop on one end to attach to one mini evo and a mini continuous loop attached with a prussic at the other end to hook up with the other mini Evo with a couple of mini continuous loops in-between (again using prussic knots) to hang the tarp from.

No hard edges, easy to adjust and set, 2" strap holds the knots employed well, very compact/light and tree friendly
All thanks to Jeff, thanks Jeff

[MikekiM]

That sounds like it will work fine. I am understanding your tarp ridgeline is fifteen feet? The one limitation I see is that a 15' ridgeline will serious limit both the minimum tree distance (though that would be an issue regardless of the SLS setup) and how low you can get the tarp to the hammock. This is one of the reasons I moved away from 12' tarps.

[ibgary]

My TRL is about 30'. That might be overkill, but zing it is so small why not. It also gives me some extra to use as a clothes line to hang my water bottle and jacket on.

Sent from my couch

[JRPHAWK]

So I'm going to try attaching my tarp to two Dutch Spiders on either end of my existing hammock suspensions (1"webbing with Beetle buckles on the bottom for the hammock) with the Spiders well above the beetle buckles. Then attach Evo loops to each spider which will attach to the ends of the tarp. I will then be able to tighten up both Spiders on each end of the tarp to make it taught. The Evo loops can easily detach from the Spiders. You could actually hang the tarp first then the hammock if you are setting up in the rain.

https://dutchwaregear.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/Spider-1-Web.jpg

[Otter1]

Nice! Should work well, as long as you use stiff enough webbing.