View Full Version : My Take On DIY Hennessy Hammock. A Tutorial.
Rushthezeppelin
02-23-2009, 02:43
Yes you are correct. That is how my Claytor hammock is setup. I use grip clips for the Asym tieouts and am using roughly the same ratio for the placement of the tieouts. Functions and looks a fair amount like a Hennessy.
turtlelady
02-23-2009, 15:10
First an introduction and then boatloads of gratitude to all of the posters in this thread and many other thread on this forum. I am Turtlelady from the western part of Kentucky. I have been lurking and studying posts here for many months. My gratitude to you all has prompted me to post today. Using the suggestions here I took apart the
rigging of my modest $16.00 hammock I ordered last spring, rolled the ends, whipped them with a structural ridgeline through the whipping for no aditional costs. This improved the comfort of my lay immensely! Thank you many times over for all your sharing and kind spirits and your multi-talents. A special heartfelt thank you to Shadowmoss for all her very patient encouragement and generosity in so many ways. I am now encouraged that hammocking can work for me and I will move forward to other improvements. My next project will be to make a hammock stand, likely a version of Risk's design, as my basic goal for now is a workable system to use indoors. If I can conquer the challenges hammocking presents for me with my particular needs, then I will get more serious about using hammocks for camping. I look forward to joyfully learning much more from all of you. Happy hammocking to you all. Much gratitude from an aging ground dweller who wishes to leave the ground and fly!
Nice job HC4U,
Did you ever add the bug net?
Would like to see some pics and thoughts on that.
Thanks for the post.
headchange4u
02-27-2009, 19:57
Nice job HC4U,
Did you ever add the bug net?
Would like to see some pics and thoughts on that.
Thanks for the post.
Check out page 4 of this thread for pics of the bug net.
HC4U,
I have been following you HH clone hammock project for awhile now and I am plannng to make one myself. I was wondering what you used for the main hammock straps (from hammock to tree) and the ridgeline.
headchange4u
02-28-2009, 21:55
Currently I am using the polyester camo webbing from Outdoor Wilderness Fabric and my ridge lines are Amsteel 7/64 or Amsteel Blue.
Schneiderlein
03-16-2009, 13:55
I made a hammock based on this tutorial. Great directions, hc4u! Thank you very much.
I used 1.9oz ripstop and noseeum from Ed Speers. I also added the little triangle at the tie-outs to make the zipper run straighter. The bug net is not removable, but has a full-length zipper so it can be flipped over the ridgeline. I did not measure for the bug net dimensions, but wrote a little program to compute the shape. Worked out well. At the end of the zipper, I put a little patch of dyneema ripstop. I put a 3/4" channel in the ends of the hammock and ran a piece of cord through them to gather the fabric. I used a cable tie to hold it in place. The hammock weighs 15 oz without suspension.
Love the hammock! It is very comfortable. I took it on a trip on the Foothills Trail (http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/showthread.php?t=7695) last week and was amazed at how much warmth the bug net added. When I get around to it, I will make an overcover that attaches to the bug net. Below are some pictures.
Thanks again, hc4u, for providing such an excellent tutorial!
http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/picture.php?albumid=54&pictureid=492
http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/picture.php?albumid=54&pictureid=491
http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/picture.php?albumid=54&pictureid=490
headchange4u
03-16-2009, 15:13
You did a heck of a job. I thought it was a HH before carefully reading the list of your gear in your trip report.
kilgore trout
03-16-2009, 15:15
Let me first apologize if this isn't the brightest question, but the searches for the individual materials have been of no use, as they produce far too many results for me to sort through.
I've read that the largest reason for using the ripstop nylon is availabilty and pricing, however while at a fabric store, both 100% polyester and a blend of 50% polyester and 50% nylon were on sale. I haven't found any immediate complaints as to the use of polyester that would affect me, though I haven't found any specific benefits either. As for the blend, I can't seem to locate any information, but from the feel of the individual materials, it actually surpasses the aforementioned and nylon in probable use ( wether that's my personal preference for feel or informatively backed is debateable).
So, I suppose my question is: can anyone think of a reason not to get the blend? and if so, anyone have further oppinions (or more detailed) of polyester in such an application as this thread describes? It very well might be the quality of nylon the store carries, but it didn't feel similiar at all to the ENO i've tried (which is unfortunately my only hammock experience thus far), whereas the other two materials seem perfect (to my untrained eye).
Thanks so much for this thread, and I can't wait to start applying what I learned here.
As a side note, Coffee: Do you know roughly the measurements of fabric you begin with? I am also 6'4 and worry it may be an issue (of my own fault) when I first try.
jeffjenn
03-16-2009, 15:24
K Trout, Poly is great, Nylon is fine, can't see any problem with a blend. That being said my question is the weight. Seems like most fabric stores often have heavier materials. Your looking for approx 1.9oz/sq yard.
I'm sure coffee will answer but I think he said he (6'4" tall) used 120". I think it was Burning Cedar that used 130" (he's 5'10") both are common sizes used by Hennessy.
Ramblinrev
03-16-2009, 15:26
Polyester can make a perfectly suitable hammock. Many commercial builders use polyester fabric. As for a blend between nylon and polyester... I can't think of a problem in terms of the fabric content. I don;t know what its handling characteristics would be. But if it were readily available and cheap enuf I would certainly try it out on a DIY basis.
Schneiderlein
03-16-2009, 15:46
You did a heck of a job. I thought it was a HH before carefully reading the list of your gear in your trip report.
Thanks, hc4u. I was quite pleased with the way it turned out. I found the trick to getting the flat-felled seams to look good is ironing them first to set the crease. After that, it's easy. I'll be doing that a lot on my future projects.
Schneiderlein,
Nice job on the hammock.
I am currently in the middle of making one on HC4U instructions.. and I was also contemplating on putting a triangle piece at each end of the zipper/ mesh.
Again nice job... I hope mine turns out just as nice.
Schneiderlein
03-19-2009, 11:37
Schneiderlein,
Nice job on the hammock.
I am currently in the middle of making one on HC4U instructions.. and I was also contemplating on putting a triangle piece at each end of the zipper/ mesh.
Again nice job... I hope mine turns out just as nice.
I think the triangle piece makes things easier with the zipper, because you avoid the sharp point where the bug net terminates. If you'd like to use a little Dyneema patch, pm me your address and I'll send you some.
Good luck with the hammock, and do post pictures when you're done!
Merganser
03-21-2009, 22:35
Anyone ever try one of these wider than 60"? Seems like fabric that wide is hard to come by and you'd need a flat-feld seam, on each side to add a few inches. Other than being a bunch of screwing around does anyone see an issue with this?
I think the triangle piece makes things easier with the zipper, because you avoid the sharp point where the bug net terminates. If you'd like to use a little Dyneema patch, pm me your address and I'll send you some.
Good luck with the hammock, and do post pictures when you're done!
Thanks, I would appreciate that. PM on it's way.
jeffjenn
03-31-2009, 01:49
Jason in this (http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/showpost.php?p=8829&postcount=2) post is the 8" section you sewed against the carpet? This is how I understand it to be just wanted to make sure.
headchange4u
03-31-2009, 09:53
Jason in this (http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/showpost.php?p=8829&postcount=2) post is the 8" section you sewed against the carpet? This is how I understand it to be just wanted to make sure.
Yes, it goes against the carpet. When doing the roll whip you will have the bottom of the hammock facing.
ricegravy
04-02-2009, 13:50
Schneiderlein would not be happy with the quality, but this is the beginning of my first DIY Hammock.
I haven't gotten the ridgeline figured out yet. Needs to be tighter I think.
http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery/files/1/3/3/0/thing.jpg
Schneiderlein
04-02-2009, 14:50
Schneiderlein would not be happy with the quality, but this is the beginning of my first DIY Hammock.
I haven't gotten the ridgeline figured out yet. Needs to be tighter I think.
Good job, ricegravy! Looks a lot better than that alcohol stove of yours:D
You may have to lower the supports a bit to get the ridgeline tight. Do you plan to put a bugnet on it?
ricegravy
04-02-2009, 15:08
Good job, ricegravy! Looks a lot better than that alcohol stove of yours:D
You may have to lower the supports a bit to get the ridgeline tight. Do you plan to put a bugnet on it?
Yes! I would like to add a bugnet and a zipper, but I'm scared Schneiderlein. So very scared.
And I don't have the bugnet or the zipper yet.
Cannibal
04-02-2009, 15:11
Scared!? You?!
Just do it. The worst that can happen is a hole in your thumb from not paying attention. :scared::D
ricegravy
04-02-2009, 15:25
Scared!? You?!
Just do it. The worst that can happen is a hole in your thumb from not paying attention. :scared::D
Oddly Enough Cannibal as much fabric as I have destroyed in my projects, I have never come close to that thread injecting point. I keep good distance in front and behind.
Schneiderlein, where did you get your zipper? What kind of cord did you use for your ridge line? Where can I get some? and and and What kind of cord did you use to put in the channel? The one that the ridge line connects to inside the ends.
Schneiderlein
04-02-2009, 21:06
Schneiderlein, where did you get your zipper? What kind of cord did you use for your ridge line? Where can I get some? and and and What kind of cord did you use to put in the channel? The one that the ridge line connects to inside the ends.
The zipper I used on the hammock you saw at the Congaree hangout was a #5 zipper from questoutfitters.com. I think you could probably use a #3 zipper for some weight savings (the blackbirds seemed to have had #3's on them, but I'm not really sure).
I would recommend you install a little triangle patch at the tie-out before you put the zipper on the hammock to make the zipper run straighter. Maybe 8-10" wide by 3" high or so...
Cord? I used 550 cord for the channel just because I had it. You could use something a lot lighter, but I removed the strands from the inside and we are only talking about five inches or so...
For the ridgeline, I used 3mm Lash-It. Again, I had it around but it's way overkill at 1,200 lbf breaking strength...
I actually did not connect the ridgeline to the cord in the channel, but used the same loops with a knot as hc4u. I thought about doing it the other way, though, but then I got too lazy...
If you want to get a closer look at the hammock I made, you're welcome to borrow it for a while.
ricegravy
04-03-2009, 08:47
I actually did not connect the ridgeline to the cord in the channel.
If you want to get a closer look at the hammock I made, you're welcome to borrow it for a while.
Schneiderlein You are the Man!
I think I am going to have to take you up on your offer!
If you would PM me an address and a time (Maybe a Cell Phone #)
I'm off for the next 6 days. Things are slow at work.
Schneiderlein
04-03-2009, 09:46
Schneiderlein You are the Man!
I think I am going to have to take you up on your offer!
If you would PM me an address and a time (Maybe a Cell Phone #)
I'm off for the next 6 days. Things are slow at work.
PM sent. Sorry to hear things are slow, I hope they don't have to lay off people.
That the crookedest cut I'VE EVER SEEN!!!!!! lolol
ricegravy
04-03-2009, 18:20
That the crookedest cut I'VE EVER SEEN!!!!!! lolol
Oh Dameon I should have known!
If it isn't up to Schneiderlein's standards......:scared:
I made a hammock based on this tutorial. Great directions, hc4u! Thank you very much.
I used 1.9oz ripstop and noseeum from Ed Speers. I also added the little triangle at the tie-outs to make the zipper run straighter. The bug net is not removable, but has a full-length zipper so it can be flipped over the ridgeline. I did not measure for the bug net dimensions, but wrote a little program to compute the shape. Worked out well. At the end of the zipper, I put a little patch of dyneema ripstop. I put a 3/4" channel in the ends of the hammock and ran a piece of cord through them to gather the fabric. I used a cable tie to hold it in place. The hammock weighs 15 oz without suspension.
Love the hammock! It is very comfortable. I took it on a trip on the Foothills Trail (http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/showthread.php?t=7695) last week and was amazed at how much warmth the bug net added. When I get around to it, I will make an overcover that attaches to the bug net. Below are some pictures.
Thanks again, hc4u, for providing such an excellent tutorial!
http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/picture.php?albumid=54&pictureid=492
http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/picture.php?albumid=54&pictureid=491
http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/picture.php?albumid=54&pictureid=490
Schneiderlein,
Thanks again for the Dyneema square.
I notice that in the one picture above, that your zipper pulls meet in the center. Does your bug net fully detach form the hammock?
Schneiderlein
04-06-2009, 14:21
Schneiderlein,
Thanks again for the Dyneema square.
I notice that in the one picture above, that your zipper pulls meet in the center. Does your bug net fully detach form the hammock?
You're welcome, Bob. The bug net is not detachable, but it can be flipped over the ridge line for a half open hammock. I guess it's like a Hennessy with a #3 zipper mod from 2QZQ.
I thought about making the bug net removable, but decided against it. For one, I like the convenience of the two zipper pulls that can meet anywhere I want them to, so I don't have to reach all the way to the end of the hammock. Also, the bug net only weighs a hair less than 1.5oz. The #5 zipper I used is about 1.4oz, and each pull adds about 1/4oz. Didn't see the sense in adding more weight than the bug net itself for zippers just so I could leave the bug net at home.
I am working on an over cover for the hammock at the moment, but it's hard to get motivated when the sun is shining...
I thought it might be. My initial plan was to make the bug net removable. Have been reconsidering it. I also wondered how easy/ difficult it would be to reach up to open/ close the net (in the removable version).
I do like the idea of the the two pulls meeting any where you want it to.
I still have time to finalize that since I still need to cut the bug net to size. Just need to finish up on a side project for one of my kids.
Sun Shining.... Not here.
Ok I am new to the idea of using a hammock as my backpacking shelter. I am sold on making this HH copy. But I have a question that I can't seem to find in this thread. Has anyone made this with the HH slit? In the design it does not show it and I wondered about this. I mean it is just a cut that you would make while sewing everything up. It adds another step, but it seems like a cool feature. Let me know if anyone has accomplished this.
Ramblinrev
04-13-2009, 17:16
While the thread (http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/showthread.php?t=5420&highlight=BEEP+mod) has a bit of a different slant this might be helpful to you. I did this on a hammock which was dual mode, meaning it could be a bridge or gathered end. But the theory should hold. The BEEP (bottom entry/exit portal was simple enough to do. If you had the chance to inspect an HH before you dive in with the scissors it might be helpful.
Ok I am new to the idea of using a hammock as my backpacking shelter. I am sold on making this HH copy. But I have a question that I can't seem to find in this thread. Has anyone made this with the HH slit? In the design it does not show it and I wondered about this. I mean it is just a cut that you would make while sewing everything up. It adds another step, but it seems like a cool feature. Let me know if anyone has accomplished this.
I saw some pictures a while ago of a HH clone w/ the slit. It takes alot of reinforcement at the end of the slit.
cwayman1
04-15-2009, 01:25
hey guys, not sure if anyone has made a post like this, but for biners... I use wire gate ones from Mammut, and I know BlackDiamond and Petzl make some too. fairly cheap(in the world of "decent-biners") at about 7-8 bucks/biner.
for the netting/ cover I keep thinking about my dad's jeep. on the back and sides, the soft top kinda latches/ slides into place. i guess kinda like those presentation binders form high school where you put your papers in the plastic and slide the "spine" on the back. i mean, you would be in there for good--maybe-- once you got in-- but it's till an idea to throw around.
or you could just leave the netting attached (it only adds a debatable amount of weight) and then just use it in "lounger-mode" with one tie-out undone for any stargazing-- this also assumes that the DIY-er has figured out the bottom-entry slit
... just some food for thought.
cheers! :thumbup1:
cwayman1
04-15-2009, 01:26
ps- many kudos on the initial post!
I saw some pictures a while ago of a HH clone w/ the slit. It takes alot of reinforcement at the end of the slit.
My Hennessy clone has a slit. For pics here's (http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/showpost.php?p=28975&postcount=223) the post.
It's super simple to do. I took the finished hammock, cut down the center where I wanted the slit to be, sewed velcro on, closed the velcro and reinforced the ends with some ballistic nylon. It's worked great.
Photograhiker
04-16-2009, 11:24
headchange4u, how does the comfort of this hammock compare with a WB Blackbird? I made a clone somewhat following this design, and I'm just wondering if I'm missing out on anything. :)
jeffjenn
04-16-2009, 13:04
http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/picture.php?albumid=54&pictureid=491[/IMG]
For those of you that have made the center tieout triangles what size square did you fold in half? I'm thinking 6"x6" looks about right. Did you sew it to a sharp point' or did you round the point at the tieout?
Also what size & material did you use for the tieout itself? (Grossgrain or webbing? 1/2", 5/8", 3/4"??)
Thanks, Jeff.
Schneiderlein
04-16-2009, 15:20
For those of you that have made the center tieout triangles what size square did you fold in half? I'm thinking 6"x6" looks about right. Did you sew it to a sharp point' or did you round the point at the tieout?
Also what size & material did you use for the tieout itself? (Grossgrain or webbing? 1/2", 5/8", 3/4"??)
Thanks, Jeff.
Jeff, I did not use a square at all, but used a triangle about 11"x3.5". I put a 3/8" folded hem on the long edge so the raw edge would not be visible after installing the zipper (it's just a single fold, not a rolled hem). I then used a 3/8" flat-felled hem to attach to the body. The body fabric folds over the triangle fabric. Press with an iron before sewing. I did not round it. Last step is to sew a 3/8" folded hem the entire length of the body on either side of the triangle. This is basically an extension of the folded over part of the flat-felled hem. Hope this makes sense.
I used 1/2" nylon webbing for the tie-out.
jeffjenn
04-16-2009, 23:20
Jeff, I did not use a square at all, but used a triangle about 11"x3.5". I put a 3/8" folded hem on the long edge so the raw edge would not be visible after installing the zipper (it's just a single fold, not a rolled hem). I then used a 3/8" flat-felled hem to attach to the body. The body fabric folds over the triangle fabric. Press with an iron before sewing. I did not round it. Last step is to sew a 3/8" folded hem the entire length of the body on either side of the triangle. This is basically an extension of the folded over part of the flat-felled hem. Hope this makes sense.
I used 1/2" nylon webbing for the tie-out.
Please forgive me I'm very slow when it comes to sewing. If I understand correctly you attached the triangle before hemming the body. Then somehow hemmed the triangle & the body at the same time? I have already hemmed all 4 sides as in HC4U's directions.:( Oh well it won't look as good as yours but thanks for the dimensions, that is a big help!:D
Schneiderlein
04-17-2009, 07:58
Please forgive me I'm very slow when it comes to sewing. If I understand correctly you attached the triangle before hemming the body. Then somehow hemmed the triangle & the body at the same time? I have already hemmed all 4 sides as in HC4U's directions.:( Oh well it won't look as good as yours but thanks for the dimensions, that is a big help!:D
Jeff,
if you install a zipper, there is no need to put a rolled hem on the body. You do not have to hem it at all if you sear the edge or cut it with a hot knife. I put a single fold hem on the body for two reasons. First, I did not want the raw edge visible at the edge of the zipper tape. This is really minor. The bigger reason is that when you attach the triangle, there is a fold from the flat felled seam anyway. You could just run that out over a few inches and not bother hemming all the way. Because of the zipper tape, it would not really be noticeable.
Here is the procedure I used again, step-by-step:
Hem the long edge of the triangle with a 3/8" single-fold hem.
Attach the triangle to the body, wrong sides together with the triangle at 3/8" and the body at 3/4" seam allowance. By wrong side I mean the inside of the hammock.
Fold the hem of the body fabric over the triangle seam allowance at 3/8" and iron.
Finish the flat-felled seam with a stitch line at ~1/8" from the folded edge.
Extend the 3/8" fold on the body fabric from the flat-felled seam on either side of the triangle all the way along the body (3/8" single-fold hem).
Attach zipper tape flush with the edge, coils agains the outside of the hammock. Use a zipper foot and attach close to the coils.
Fold the zipper tape over and top stitch close to the fold. Use a zipper foot. It may help to iron before sewing.
Add a second line of top-stitching to the zipper close to the edge of the zipper tape. With a #5 zipper, you will likely not be able to do this with a zipper foot, but a regular foot works well against the zipper coil also.
The triangle dimensions are approximate. I used a computer program to generate a template for it based on the geometry of my hammock.
Since you have the body hemmed already, you may want to attach the zipper without folding it. In this case, just put a rolled hem on all sides of the triangle and then attach to the body. Make the triangle bigger to account for the rolled hems. Attaching the zipper may be a bit tricky this way. You have to make sure the fabric does not get too close to the coils, and you have to stitch it down close to the edge so the fabric does not get caught in the zipper. Fabric glue might help.
Ramblinrev
04-17-2009, 08:10
Jeff,
if you install a zipper, there is no need to put a rolled hem on the body. You do not have to hem it at all if you sear the edge or cut it with a hot knife. I put a single fold hem on the body for two reasons. First, I did not want the raw edge visible at the edge of the zipper tape. This is really minor. The bigger reason is that when you attach the triangle, there is a fold from the flat felled seam anyway. You could just run that out over a few inches and not bother hemming all the way. Because of the zipper tape, it would not really be noticeable.
Here is the procedure I used again, step-by-step:
Hem the long edge of the triangle with a 3/8" single-fold hem.
Attach the triangle to the body, wrong sides together with the triangle at 3/8" and the body at 3/4" seam allowance. By wrong side I mean the inside of the hammock.
Fold the hem of the body fabric over the triangle seam allowance at 3/8" and iron.
Finish the flat-felled seam with a stitch line at ~1/8" from the folded edge.
Extend the 3/8" fold on the body fabric from the flat-felled seam on either side of the triangle all the way along the body (3/8" single-fold hem).
Attach zipper tape flush with the edge, coils agains the outside of the hammock. Use a zipper foot and attach close to the coils.
Fold the zipper tape over and top stitch close to the fold. Use a zipper foot. It may help to iron before sewing.
Add a second line of top-stitching to the zipper close to the edge of the zipper tape. With a #5 zipper, you will likely not be able to do this with a zipper foot, but a regular foot works well against the zipper coil also.
The triangle dimensions are approximate. I used a computer program to generate a template for it based on the geometry of my hammock.
Since you have the body hemmed already, you may want to attach the zipper without folding it. In this case, just put a rolled hem on all sides of the triangle and then attach to the body. Make the triangle bigger to account for the rolled hems. Attaching the zipper may be a bit tricky this way. You have to make sure the fabric does not get too close to the coils, and you have to stitch it down close to the edge so the fabric does not get caught in the zipper. Fabric glue might help.
A zipper foot works very well on a #5 zipper. Most zipper feet have two settings. One allows you to sew very close to the coils. The other setting, in my case I turn the foot 180 degrees, in other cases the foot attaches to a different point on the foot. That setting allows you to run the foot right along the coils and sew a distance from the coils . You get that very nice double stitch line on the zipper tape. When using a non-separatig zipper you need to be able to change that distance on the feet to install the zipper correctly. I hope that is clear. If not I'll try to explain it differently.
jeffjenn
04-17-2009, 08:26
Since you have the body hemmed already, you may want to attach the zipper without folding it. In this case, just put a rolled hem on all sides of the triangle and then attach to the body. Make the triangle bigger to account for the rolled hems. Attaching the zipper may be a bit tricky this way. You have to make sure the fabric does not get too close to the coils, and you have to stitch it down close to the edge so the fabric does not get caught in the zipper. Fabric glue might help.
Schneiderlein & Rev, thanks for all the tips they are very helpful! I think I was going to do the steps you guys have suggested, but it's good to have them for refrence. I will be using some fabric glue (I really like that stuff!). Which brings up another question... The glue tends to blead through the fabric in spots (no matter how little I apply) leaving a shiny glazed look. Now I know this is minor, but what is the best way to remove this?
Thanks again, Jeff
Ramblinrev
04-17-2009, 08:33
I have never used fabric glue so I have no clue. I tend to shy away from anything that would leave a residue on the needle or seep into the machine. I don't really trust that stuff without stitch lines anyway but as I say I don't use it so what do I know. ;)
Iron on adhesive is another issue and I will use that on occasion for non-stress areas. But if it going to take any stress I put my money on stitches. YMMV. I'm not saying it not good stuff. Just that I don't use it.
jeffjenn
04-17-2009, 08:45
Rev, the glue just takes the place of pins for tacking. I still sew everything after the glue has set for 24hrs. By using it this way nothing seeps into my machine & seems to leave no residue on the needle. It keeps everything nice & flat & in place while I sew without having to stop to remove pins every x inches. It's a lot slower process setting up than just pinning, but much faster & easier for sewing. (I need all the help I can get!) I can concentrate on just sewing as straight as possible without having to stop for pins. If I get a good straight run going I can keep going until it begins to stray. (perhapse the more correct term for me instead of a "straight" run is straightish run) oh well I try.:lol:
Ramblinrev
04-17-2009, 08:51
Jeffjenn... in my book it's called whatever works... no problem.
Schneiderlein
04-17-2009, 09:18
Jeff, I would do a test to see if the glue seeps through the 3 layers of the rolled hem. It may not be an issue with 3 layers. I have seen basting tapes that might work well here, but have never used any. You definitely have to stitch, the glue is just for alignment. The only reason I mentioned it was because it is important to keep the fabric away from the coils, and a small error might not just be a cosmetic defect.
Schneiderlein
04-17-2009, 09:33
A zipper foot works very well on a #5 zipper. Most zipper feet have two settings. One allows you to sew very close to the coils. The other setting, in my case I turn the foot 180 degrees, in other cases the foot attaches to a different point on the foot. That setting allows you to run the foot right along the coils and sew a distance from the coils . You get that very nice double stitch line on the zipper tape. When using a non-separatig zipper you need to be able to change that distance on the feet to install the zipper correctly. I hope that is clear. If not I'll try to explain it differently.
My zipper foot does not let me do the second stitch line on a #5. If I attach the foot on the right, the seams are too close together, and if I attach it on the left, the needle just misses the tape. For the second stitch line, the regular foot works well, though. In my opinion, it is actually easier than working with a zipper foot. Gives me a very nice double stitch line with a consistent width.
jeffjenn
04-24-2009, 22:44
Okay as the project is slowly progressing my next quesion is...
Which is the best method to whip the hammock? Real whipping like HC4U did or a zip tie?
Schneiderlein
04-25-2009, 15:21
Okay as the project is slowly progressing my next quesion is...
Which is the best method to whip the hammock? Real whipping like HC4U did or a zip tie?
I put a 3/4" channel on each end, put cord through it and cinched tight. Then, I used a zip tie to secure it.
I had some $1 Wally World nylon so I made one following the directions at the beginning of this post. I did change the position of the tie outs. Since I will be making an underquilt I figured I could put them wherever.
I did make it long starting with 134". I found that the length helps the abilty to get flat.
Here it is!
http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery/files/1/5/8/dscn0526_thumb.jpg (http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery/showimage.php?i=5700&c=4)
Here is a better view of the end whipping. I gathered the end on my double hammock, but I really like the feel hat a roll whip produces.
http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery/files/1/5/8/dscn0527_thumb.jpg (http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery/showimage.php?i=5701&c=member&imageuser=158)
It lays really flat.
http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery/files/1/5/8/dscn0532_thumb.jpg (http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery/showimage.php?i=5703&c=member&imageuser=158)
Side sleeping is possible as well.
http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery/files/1/5/8/dscn0534_thumb.jpg (http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery/showimage.php?i=5704&c=member&imageuser=158)
Here is a picture with the hammock "Loaded".
http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery/files/1/5/8/dscn0538_thumb.jpg (http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery/showimage.php?i=5705&c=member&imageuser=158)
All in all I'm happy with it so far. I still need to make a bug net with zippers and then make an underquilt for it.
It is one layer so it is lighter than my double hammock. Total cost so far is around $6.
On a side note I left a botched hammock hanging outside for about 6 months under trees. There was no degradation of the material at all. I'd dump the rain water out of it from time to time. The straps got good and stiff but the body material held up very well.
Nice looking clone Chezrad. I just got some purple 1.9 to make one myself.
Took two days to put together. The one thing that I would change at this point is the strength of the side tie-outs. I've never used them before and they do take some strain. Guess I'm still learning. Anyhow, it's more comfortable with a roll whip. My head is not pushed toward the center at an angle. With the roll whip the area where my head is seems to be flat. It's pretty nice.
Now I'm looking for an inexpensive source for zippers.
i don't know about how expensive they are but OWF is where I get my zippers.
They are very knowedgable.
What size/type zippers are you using and in what pull configuration?
Perkolady
05-03-2009, 12:28
Nice looking hammock, chezrad!
I really like the color. From the photos, it looks like you can get pretty flat in there! Sweet!
Great job and good luck with the rest of it.
Perkolady
What size/type zippers are you using and in what pull configuration?
I have a #2 zipper with double pulling tab. That way it opens in the middle.
jeffjenn
05-06-2009, 09:01
Hi it's me again,
I've come to the point of bug netting & have found myself on the fence... I will be using a full left side zipper that meets in the middle, & I know I do not want a zipper on the right side, but I'm torn as to whether I want to sew the netting to the right side or use velcro giving the option of an opening if really needed. I've read it's a bit of a pain to use velcro as the only entrance because trying to get it sealed once you are in the hammock is no fun. Although I can see sticking an arm out to adjust a quilt or something shouldn't be too bad. Or what if the zipper fails, it would be nice to not have to cut my way free. At the same time will the velcro keep the side shut & free of bugs? If I roll around geting set, or at night in my sleep I don't want to open up spots for the skeeters to come in & feast.
Has anyone done this? Please give me your opinoins...
Thanks
2Questions
05-06-2009, 18:21
Or what if the zipper fails, it would be nice to not have to cut my way free.
Over the past 14 months, ZQ has modded over 130 Hennessy's with zipper mods and I have yet to hear of a failure. There are several thru-hiking with the mods. I'm glad to hear of no failures.
We use #5 coil zippers, not tooth zippers, that may be the difference. IMHO go with the coil zipper over the velcro. I don't recommend a zipper in a situation that is susceptible to a lot of stress however, such as the Hennessy slit, but for bugnetting, no problem.
Hey guys, I'm adding bug net to a hammock I made last year (and I'll be making another soon). I have a quick question about sewing on the bugnet. Do you guys usually use a zigzag stitch to attach the netting to nylon? Or just use whatever you use on the rest of the hammock?
Thanks!
Ramblinrev
06-21-2009, 20:55
I see no reason why a zigzag is required but I don't see any reason to avoid it either. I have always used multiple lines of straight stitch. But others may have different ideas.
Cannibal
06-22-2009, 09:58
Doesn't a zig zap stitch do a better job of 'bending instead of breaking'? In other words, aren't they more forgiving/flexible when pulled? Seems to me that would be a good thing for netting. I don't know, just thinking aloud.
Terraplane
06-24-2009, 15:53
I've been making a HH clone. Everything going good but I'm now at the zipper installation stage. I have a mental block or something going on with the 20' zipper I found. It is a #5 YKK with a double pull.
Is it possible to add another double pull to it or do I use 2 of the zippers cut in half?
I can get more of them or can probably find a pull.
Terraplane
headchange4u
06-25-2009, 09:04
Adding pull to zippers can be a fun endeavor. It can be done, but it can also be very frustrating. That's why I order my zippers from Outdoor Wilderness Fabrics. Those nice ladies will install the zipper pulls for me.:D
Terraplane
06-25-2009, 09:37
You're right, of course. I found the 20' zippers for $3 locally. I will take one to a fabric store today to see if they can put another double pull on it. Otherwise I will put in another order on the internet.
Thanks
Terraplane
Adding pull to zippers can be a fun endeavor. It can be done, but it can also be very frustrating.
Maybe it's just me, but I find installing zipper pulls quite easy. The first one I ever installed, went on in 5 seconds. I've made several since then and from this point on I wont buy premade zippers, unless they need to be seperating ones.
Terraplane
07-05-2009, 10:51
Found another double pull and installed it in the same 5 seconds. Not so hard!!.....now I have a HH clone with zip off net. This has been a great thread to read and learn from throughout the process.
Now I'm thinking about a tarp.......I have some Walmart white (clear) 1.1 ripstop. I've made a paper mockup and am thinking 10 x 11 with doors at each end. To seal it I'm thinking about mixing up two batches of silicone with different colors and painting each on like camo and mixing them and finishing it off with the third color.
Terraplane
gargoyle
07-05-2009, 12:10
Found another double pull and installed it in the same 5 seconds. Not so hard!!.....now I have a HH clone with zip off net. This has been a great thread to read and learn from throughout the process.
Now I'm thinking about a tarp.......I have some Walmart white (clear) 1.1 ripstop. I've made a paper mockup and am thinking 10 x 11 with doors at each end. To seal it I'm thinking about mixing up two batches of silicone with different colors and painting each on like camo and mixing them and finishing it off with the third color.
Terraplane
Sounds like you have a new demo to do, zipper pulls and silicone coloring.
gargoyle
07-05-2009, 12:15
Found another double pull and installed it in the same 5 seconds. Not so hard!!.....now I have a HH clone with zip off net. This has been a great thread to read and learn from throughout the process.
Now I'm thinking about a tarp.......I have some Walmart white (clear) 1.1 ripstop. I've made a paper mockup and am thinking 10 x 11 with doors at each end. To seal it I'm thinking about mixing up two batches of silicone with different colors and painting each on like camo and mixing them and finishing it off with the third color.
Terraplane
Sounds like a new demo, Zipper Pulls and Silicone Camo Paint. Time to bust out the camera
OMG!!!! Thank you Headchange4u!
I have been canoe camping for 20 or so years. I have been making/mod'ing gear for a few years now and this thread is right up my alley. So far I have re-worked all the wood on my 15 year old canoe and I have made about 5 paddles for my son, my wife and myself. I am always on the lookout for ideas to make/mod my equipment. I am not as concerned about weight as most people here, but the older I get ..... the lighter I like it.
I first took my son at the tender age of 5 and he now has about 12 trips under his belt. 2 years ago I borrowed HH's from my brothers. My son and I fell in love with the hammocks! Ryan will NOT sleep on the ground anymore. I have experimented with a bridge hammock but didn't seem to succeed with it. I now have in my possession some camo rip-stop that I am going to start sewing in about an hour. This is exactly the design I want to try.
My question is about the rip-stop ...... I originally created a bridge type but it seems to be very stretchy. I can't seem to get it to support my weight. Is there a technical name/designation that I can take to the fabric shop? We have a local one that has/can get anything.
Thanking you in advance!
headchange4u
07-28-2009, 14:36
If you ask for ripstop they should know exactly what you are talking about. Most ripstop is made from nylon which is prone to stretching. Using the hammock a few time will help to alleviate some of the stretching. A better choice would be polyester as it has less stretch, but it is much harder to find.
BTW,
Welcome to Hammock Forums.
sclittlefield
07-28-2009, 14:38
My question is about the rip-stop ...... I originally created a bridge type but it seems to be very stretchy. I can't seem to get it to support my weight. Is there a technical name/designation that I can take to the fabric shop? We have a local one that has/can get anything.
Thanking you in advance!
Just a couple notes... nylon stretches some, no matter what kind you get. Polyester has a very minimal stretch comparatively. However, generally speaking, some stretch is good. Most hammocks are made from nylon.
A good starter hammock, with this design, ought to be 1.9oz Uncoated Ripstop Nylon (in my opinion). That's 1.9oz per square yard, but just say 1.9oz and they'll know what you mean. It will be strong enough for most anybody, and give you a proper amount of stretch (gathered end hammocks stretch differently than bridge hammocks).
The thinner you go with the fabric (1.7oz, 1.1oz) the stretchier it will be. I'm sure the weave has a lot to do with it as well but I really don't knot too much about that.
Oh - and welcome to the forum! Don't hesitate to ask any and all questions, the folks here are fantastic, full of great hammocky information, and really quite nice.
Thanks for the quick reply. I am reading (and re-reading) the folding and whipping info ..... lots to learn for a noob ...... but what a reward.
Well .... just finished my first attempt at this hammock (my son's) and I am pleased. It is done in camo .... as per his request. I made a couple of my own mod's and spent a bit of time trying to get the gathering and whipping right. The bug screen and fly may have to wait until after our camping trip.
I am going to set it up tommorrow and get some pics of it.
One thing I did note (with the help of a very particular/scientific friend) is that the further the tie off points are apart, the more the hammock drops. At least the area we frequent has lots of tree.
I also found a great local manufacturer/supplier of cord. Got 200 feet of 5mm braided poly with nylon core for $20.
What a great day it has been.
Thanks to everyone for the advice and the answers.
Ramblinrev
07-29-2009, 21:22
One thing I did note (with the help of a very particular/scientific friend) is that the further the tie off points are apart, the more the hammock drops.
To put it another way that is more commonly used on this forum.. the farther apart the supports are the higher you need to tie off.
I've been playing with this design. Thanks for posting such great instructions! Not having a HH myself, I don't understand why the side tie outs are located 26 on center. The flatest and most comfortable lay I have achieved is with the tie outs very close to the ends. Basically I put a full length pad in the hammock and put in a temporary tie out where the corner of the pad came to the edge of the hammock. Having the tie outs closer to center must serve some purpose but I don't know what:confused:
Was looking into parts and pieces for making one of these and ran into this place for Zippers:
http://www.seattlefabrics.com/zippers.html#Two-Way%20Separating%20Zipper%205%20Vislon
Two-Way Separating 110" Sleeping Bag Zipper
$14.50 each - not bad
Ramblinrev
10-03-2009, 00:31
but when your hammock fabric is 120"+ they just aren't long enough.
jeffjenn
10-03-2009, 18:36
but when your hammock fabric is 120"+ they just aren't long enough.
But remember you sew an 8" tube on each end & the tieouts eat up a little. They may very well work.
Well, last night I began the "HH clone on a diet" project using this design. The question is just how light can you get a HH Clone but stay comfortable. I expect this to be a longer term project, in preparation for a thru-hike dream at retirement, so the hammock needs to be durable enough to last 2200 miles.
So far, I've taken some really nice 1.9 ounce Ripstop I picked up at Joanne Fabrics (really nice feel and drape) and built the Hammock body. The body is 9.5 feet long and 5 feet wide. I then took a piece of 7/64 amsteel blue I had as extra from my Whoopie Sling making project and created a Ridgeline with an buried eye on either end. The Ridgeline is 80% of the hammock body length.
I roll whipped the ends with zipties.
The weight of the body and ridgeline is 10.4 ounces at present.
I'm debating on going back and adding a bottom entry slit, although I think I'd prefer a zipper ...... choices, choices, choices.
I have some nanoseeum netting laying around from an abandoned bivy project to make the bugnet after I sew on the tieouts.
I'm targeting 1 pound using fairly conventional materials.
I can't thank you guys enough for all the hard work you've put into this design ... I'm looking forward to completing the project!
Captn - these things are fun to make aren't they? But...we need pictures!:)
FYI - Watch those zip-ties closely. I had a couple of them break on mine.
Jerry
Captn - these things are fun to make aren't they? But...we need pictures!:)
FYI - Watch those zip-ties closely. I had a couple of them break on mine.
Jerry
Thanks for the advice Jerry .... I'm not sure how I want to finish the whipping, the Zips are temporary while I check the work so far.
http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery/files/4/3/6/2/dsc00768_thumb.jpg (http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery/showimage.php?i=8011&c=4)
http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery/files/4/3/6/2/dsc00767_thumb.jpg (http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery/showimage.php?i=8010&c=4)
http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery/files/4/3/6/2/dsc00766_thumb.jpg (http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery/showimage.php?i=8009&c=4)
I built my HH with a bottom entry and still like it, but a zipper is really convenient. That being said, a bottom entry is going to be a lot lighter. If you're trying to go ultralight I'd stay with the bottom entry. Bare in mind too that you'll endup having to count your tarp weight into your shelter as well, so any weight you can shave will help.
Best of luck!
I built my HH with a bottom entry and still like it, but a zipper is really convenient. That being said, a bottom entry is going to be a lot lighter. If you're trying to go ultralight I'd stay with the bottom entry. Bare in mind too that you'll endup having to count your tarp weight into your shelter as well, so any weight you can shave will help.
Best of luck!
Good point!
SGT Rock
02-24-2010, 14:21
Hey, thanks for writing this. I used this information to make my new hammock. I've been putting my pack on a little weight loss program and have made the hammock with whoopie slings at 9.65 ounces. I haven't added a bug net option, but I plan to do one, and plan to come up with some sort of winter top cover as well.
But thanks VERY much for the instructions. Everything worked like a charm.
headchange4u
02-24-2010, 15:13
Hey, thanks for writing this. I used this information to make my new hammock. I've been putting my pack on a little weight loss program and have made the hammock with whoopie slings at 9.65 ounces. I haven't added a bug net option, but I plan to do one, and plan to come up with some sort of winter top cover as well.
But thanks VERY much for the instructions. Everything worked like a charm.
You are welcome.
Hopefully I will be able to post an instructional video on the roll whip. I thought I had lost that video along with a bunch of others due to hard drive crash. Luckily I found a backup of the videos on a removable hard drive a few days ago.
Thanks god for backups.:rolleyes::D
SGT Rock
02-25-2010, 21:41
Here are some pictures of my Hennessy Copy thanks to your instructions.
http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery/files/1/3/3/100_0024a_thumb.jpg (http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery/showimage.php?i=8657&c=4)
Hammock without a load. The body is 1.1oz ripstop from www.thru-hiker.com. The lines and toggles are from Arrowhead equipment. The ridge line is mason twine and can be removed - it's attached with mitten hooks.
Summer:
The hammock...................9.58 ounces (includes whoopie slings from Arrowhead Equipment)
Toggles...........................0.42 ounces (also from Arrowhead Equipment)
Hennessy Tree huggers......1.84 ounces
Warbonnet Edge Spintarp...8.69 ounces (lines from Arrowhead Equipment)
4 MSR stakes...................1.27 ounces
Stuff sack for the tarp.......0.42 ounces
Bug net (not shown)..........5.09 ounces
Total base weight............27.31 ounces
For this base I use my JRB No-Sniveler for a top quilt and have my pocket pad on hand.
JRB No Sniveler................21.45 ounces
Pocket Pad......................11.20 ounces
Stuff sack for quilt.............0.99 ounces
Spring/Fall:
-Net..............................-5.09 ounces
2 Edge tarp doors..............3.53 ounces
JRP cords for under quilt.....1.13 ounces
Total..............................-0.43 ounces
For this I throw in my Nunatack Back Country Blanket for the top quilt and move the no-sniveler to bottom duty. 26.82 ounces added.
Winter:
JRB Weathershield bottom...7.42 ounces
2 Edge tarp doors..............3.53 ounces
Hammock top...................~5.00 ounces est. (under construction)
Total...............................15.95 ounces
http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery/files/1/3/3/100_0025a_thumb.jpg (http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery/showimage.php?i=8658&c=4)
Whoopie Sling/Toggle/Tree Hugger connection. Tree straps are Hennessy Tree Huggers. The toggles and whoopie lines are from Arrowhead equipment.
http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery/files/1/3/3/100_0026a_thumb.jpg (http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery/showimage.php?i=8659&c=4)
Attaching of the Whoopie line to the body with a prussic knot over the whipping which is done with mason twine.
http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery/files/1/3/3/100_0027a_thumb.jpg (http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery/showimage.php?i=8660&c=4)
Side tie outs are 1/16" shock cord.
http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery/files/1/3/3/100_0028a_thumb.jpg (http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery/showimage.php?i=8661&c=4)
Shown with a Warbonnet Edge Spintarp. Gray and Gray color is why I call it the ghost.
http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery/files/1/3/3/100_0029a_thumb.jpg (http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery/showimage.php?i=8662&c=4)
Shown with some weight in it.
http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery/files/1/3/3/100_0030a_thumb.jpg (http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery/showimage.php?i=8663&c=4)
Another angle.
Thanks again for the instructions man. When I get the bug net and the winter top done, I'll post some images.
SGT Rock
02-28-2010, 19:20
Another inspiration made from stuff I've seen in your pics Headchange...
http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery/files/1/3/3/100_0031_thumb.jpg (http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery/showimage.php?i=8682&c=member&imageuser=133)
Bug net cover. Add on net for my homemade Ghost Hammock. The net is salvaged from a Hennessy Hammock that got destroyed when I loaned it out. It weighs 4.88 ounces plus about 0.42 ounces for some clips that help seal it.
http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery/files/1/3/3/100_0039a_thumb.jpg (http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery/showimage.php?i=8688&c=member&imageuser=133)
Top cover. I already had a JRB Weathershield but never used the top. After looking at your pics I decided I found a use for it. I modified the top cover of a JRB Weathersheild to make the cover for my hammock. Now I have a micro climate inside my hammock for wintertime. 4.84 ounces plus those clips again.
GaHammockGuy
03-04-2010, 13:48
Any thoughts on how to install a bug net onto the hammock.
I have a video on my finished product of the body, but I need to add a bug net.
I have thought of either unwrapping the hammock, sewing in the.... um...... I mean attaching the bug net with my thread injector... yeah... that's what I meant.
and then wrap the hammock ends back up and add my suspension conenctors.
Or trying to install the bug net to the finished hammock, but that poses an issue.
I also thought about making my bug net a modular piece to be added aftger I hang the hammock.
The modular optioin seems to promise a smaller headache as opposed to the other options.
Any thoughts on bug netting and how to install into the hammock?
SGT Rock
03-04-2010, 20:12
What I did was make an add on net. I took an old Hennessy net (you can make one using headchange's instructions) and then add a "skirt" that could be folded over to make a channel for elastic cord so that it snugs down around the perimeter of the the hammock. It didn't work perfectly, but I now have 4 small clothes pins that weigh 4 grams each that finish up the joints. 4.88 ounces for the net and 0.28 for the 4 clips.
Thanks headchange for the great write up. It has convinced me to take the dive.
One question or should I say, the first of many?, The picture with the 8" tube has the seam move "north" a few inches. Did you keep it up there when you did the folding or is it just there to help show the seam?
Thanks
Just curious as I'm beginning a couple of hammocks for my son and me, how did the four tie-outs work, compared to the two?
First I must say "YOU GUYS SUCK!" but in a good way. After reading this thread I now feel compelled to make my own clone. I am going to get a lot of crap for it since we have a pop up camper in the driveway. LOL but what can ya do. Thanks for all of your input and tips. I have a lot of planning to do and this thread helps with a lot of the legwork so thanks.
WVassello
04-18-2010, 14:37
This may be a stupid question, (I am new to hammock construstion.), but could the cord loop you put in the whipping for your ridgeline be made to be the attachment point for the hammock itself? Or would the forces be unevenly distributed into the material at the ends?
Tortoise1
04-24-2010, 09:31
Thank you all for your honest input. This site rocks. I had plenty on my plate as of yesterday, now, thanks to you guys, I have another project for the weekend. Just an FYI for any member that is in my area. I own an Old, nice, medium duty singer sewing machine that I just had tuned up. I am willing to share my equipment to anyone who is interested in a DIY. I am currently in Lambertville Michigan, about 3 miles north of Toledo Ohio. Thanks again folks. Tortoise1.
headchange4u
04-24-2010, 11:19
This may be a stupid question, (I am new to hammock construstion.), but could the cord loop you put in the whipping for your ridgeline be made to be the attachment point for the hammock itself? Or would the forces be unevenly distributed into the material at the ends?
The ridge line thingy was not really meant to bear much weight. You could do something like you suggest. It would be an arrangement similar to how Warbonnet Blackbird ridgelines are set up.
finallyME
05-03-2010, 11:08
Well, I finally did it. I sewed meself a DIY hennessy just like Headchange4u instructed. Well, almost. I used 1.1 oz and did a double layer. I also cut the fabric at 130". It ended up a little shorter with the hemming. And man, that is a lot of hemming for a double layer. Anyways, the lay was amazing. I just want to thank HC4U for coming up with this idea and sharing it. I had a few minor problems related to the double layer that I am starting a new thread on, but overall, a very satisfied hanger. Thanks. :thumbup1: :thumbup:
Hello all, after years of grounding in Midwest, Southwest and now in the Southeast,and finding the HForum Through Shug's impressive U-Tube Vids, you have me interested in moving up in the outdoor world. Thanks for all the helpful Info and Tips. Am attempting my own DIY, went to the Fabric store and looked at some Rip-Stop. How can one tell the difference between 1.9 and 1.1 oz?
sclittlefield
05-05-2010, 15:50
Hello all, after years of grounding in Midwest, Southwest and now in the Southeast,and finding the HForum Through Shug's impressive U-Tube Vids, you have me interested in moving up in the outdoor world. Thanks for all the helpful Info and Tips. Am attempting my own DIY, went to the Fabric store and looked at some Rip-Stop. How can one tell the difference between 1.9 and 1.1 oz?
Unfortunately, that's nearly impossible to answer without having some samples for you to see and feel.
If the fabric store you're getting it from doesn't list the weight, perhaps they'll list the Denier. If it's 30d, then you're looking at about 1.1oz, if 70d, then it's in the 1.7-1.9oz range.
If they can't tell you either of those things... you might find it helpful to order a fabric sample set from www.owfinc.com. They'll list what is what and you can go from there.
Thanks SC. Joan's F, the lady directed me to the Rip- stop section and disappeared. All's good, I was better looking in a previous life. I'll return tomorrow and re-read the bolt end and see if I can cypher the Denier.
hang-n parson
05-06-2010, 20:23
Hey, All,
I'm new to HF, having started hanging about three years ago. All of my hammock time is either during solo bicycle tours or camping with my grandson on cub scout outings. I have a HHBA.
I have a lot of experience with sewing, so after reading all the great posts here I will attempt to make a HHBA clone.
My first question is regarding how the HH ends are joined together. In removing the fabric cover I see that there appears a part made of plastic thru which the cords are wrapped.
Please help me understand why this method is not replicated vs. the bunched-up style. Also, any one know what that plastic thingy is in the HH at the end of hammock?
Great site, I'm enjoying the readings very much.
Thanks for your help.
Bob
Kaminari
08-30-2010, 11:03
Hello,
I am working on my own version of this project, but I have no experience with hammocks. I think it is going well, except I don't know how long the ridgeline should be. Is there a formula or rule of thumb to figure this out? How much tension should the ridgeline have on it?
Thanks so much and It's great to find this forum!
SGT Rock
08-30-2010, 19:14
~93% of the bottom length. So say you have a 100" long hammock, the ridge should be about 93".
hangnout
08-30-2010, 19:21
~93% of the bottom length. So say you have a 100" long hammock, the ridge should be about 93".
Did you mean about 83%? Most HH, WBBB, etc are around 80%-83%
SGT Rock
08-30-2010, 19:25
No I've been doing mine based on ~93%. My SUL DIY is 100" long and the ridge is 92.something inches.
Kaminari
08-30-2010, 21:50
Thanks for the advice!
I had noticed someone said they made their ridgeline 80% of total length, but my math kept giving me 92" for a 100" hammock.
islandman8302
09-01-2010, 16:58
I've been gathering, ciphering and planning and am just about to make my first hammock and am wondering how an asym lies if you don't attach the tie-outs? I really don't want to loose that gentle swinging.
Just Jeff
09-01-2010, 17:47
The tie-outs don't affect how the hammock lays, just how roomy it seems. It keeps the bug net spread out and can keep floppy hammock edges out of your face...but the elastic's strength is nothing compared to your body weight, so it doesn't change the actual lay of the hammock.
I almost never use my tie-outs...so seldom that I've actually removed them from two of my four hammocks with tie-outs, and I've never added them to any of my DIY hammocks.
SGT Rock
09-01-2010, 17:56
The tie-outs don't affect how the hammock lays, just how roomy it seems. It keeps the bug net spread out and can keep floppy hammock edges out of your face...but the elastic's strength is nothing compared to your body weight, so it doesn't change the actual lay of the hammock.
I almost never use my tie-outs...so seldom that I've actually removed them from two of my four hammocks with tie-outs, and I've never added them to any of my DIY hammocks.
Same here. Although lately I have been using a tie out on the foot end of my latest hammock, but even then I debate with myself about the usefulness of it.
islandman8302
09-02-2010, 08:12
The tie-outs don't affect how the hammock lays, just how roomy it seems. It keeps the bug net spread out and can keep floppy hammock edges out of your face...but the elastic's strength is nothing compared to your body weight, so it doesn't change the actual lay of the hammock.
I almost never use my tie-outs...so seldom that I've actually removed them from two of my four hammocks with tie-outs, and I've never added them to any of my DIY hammocks.
Same here. Although lately I have been using a tie out on the foot end of my latest hammock, but even then I debate with myself about the usefulness of it.
Thanks Jeff and SGT - Glad to hear this. I see and asym in my future :D
Ray022085
09-06-2010, 15:03
I finished my first cover today. I made one out of netting first. I removed the zipper from the sleeping bags and first I sewed the zipper on the edge of the hammock with a double stitch:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v704/headchange4u/Hammock/HHProto031107007.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v704/headchange4u/Hammock/HHProto031107016.jpg
I made reusable a pattern for my top cover from Tyvek and used it to cut the netting out. Then I roll hemmed the edges of the netting. and the while the zipper was still zipper together on the hammock body I pinned the netting in place making sure that the corners were positioned perfectly. I wasn't worried about a little extra fabric on the sides, but I wanted the head, foot, and assym. tie outs placement to be perfect so the zipper would line up. After pinning the netting in place I simply unzipped the zipper and and removed the netting and started sewing. If I had any extra/loose fabric in the sides I simply made a small fold to take up the slack:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v704/headchange4u/Hammock/HHProto031107027.jpg
Here's a pic of the finished top. I still have about 3-4 " of extra zipper on end that has to be trimmed as soon as I get some zipper stops:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v704/headchange4u/Hammock/HHProto031107080.jpg
Detail of everything zipped together:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v704/headchange4u/Hammock/HHProto031107056.jpg
i'm wondering it you could give me dimensions of the netting, just general width, i'l like to place an order for some, but i want to know a size for reference. thanks!
kthompson
09-11-2010, 13:47
I'd like to make a Explorer length HH clone. Any ideas on the fabric dimensions needed?
JohnSawyer
11-10-2010, 01:38
OK, took my son's (9) gathered-end hammock and followed the directions. Everything was PERFECT... except...
I decided to go Velcro, since I had it. I sewed the net on 1/2 the hammock. then sewed the velcro on. I should have done the velcro first. I had all kinds of problems with the net as the material stretches. Now I have 4" more velcro'd net than I need... now what?
Any tips?
bugman0914
11-11-2010, 11:42
I posted my location in Willis, Va. Double check to make sure I got it right. Thanks
Tony
GvilleDave
11-11-2010, 12:04
John - I had a similar problem sewing on the zipper on my attached HH style bug net. The netting stretched easier than the rip stop of the hammock body and as I sewed the netting I was actually stretching the netting. I used a seam ripper and removed that zipper half. Before attempting the 2nd time I made corresponding marks on both the zipper and the netting at certain points along the length (1/4, 1/2, 3/4) then as I sewed I was careful to not stretch the netting. I went slower than normal and every so often I would measure the distance to my next mark on the zipper and the net. That way if I was getting off on one or the other I could gradually adjust and not have a big chunk of excess netting.
Hope this helps.
JohnSawyer
11-11-2010, 23:10
Fantastic advice. I think I'll go one step further and pin it every 4" or so. Ripping out the seam now...
John - I had a similar problem sewing on the zipper on my attached HH style bug net. The netting stretched easier than the rip stop of the hammock body and as I sewed the netting I was actually stretching the netting. I used a seam ripper and removed that zipper half. Before attempting the 2nd time I made corresponding marks on both the zipper and the netting at certain points along the length (1/4, 1/2, 3/4) then as I sewed I was careful to not stretch the netting. I went slower than normal and every so often I would measure the distance to my next mark on the zipper and the net. That way if I was getting off on one or the other I could gradually adjust and not have a big chunk of excess netting.
Hope this helps.
MrClean417
12-29-2010, 20:46
I'm glad the last post on this 3.5 year old post is only a month ago. I don't feel like such a thread zombie. It is the first thread that brought me to this forum last night. I ran into the Hennessey website a year or two ago when I started planning motorcycle camping. Now, I've made several trips, usually once a year but sometimes more but I hadn't thought of Hammocks till again a couple days ago. On a motorcycle forum a member was asking about camping off the cycle and I mentioned the Hennesey as an option. Another member liked the look but we debated making our own. They of course remembered this thing called the internet and did a search and found you guys.
My problem is, I've found references for guys taller than me and their lengths in hammocks. I'm only 6'2" so I'll follow the 6'4" guys dimensions. But, I haven't noticed a lot of weights being listed and the Hennessey hammocks for my weight class start at around 375-400 bucks. Alright, I'm currently hovering around 300 pounds. I was fairly in shape at 265. Last time I was cut and running 3 miles a day I was 245. Yea, I'm big boned, don't make me cry.
What allotments does a feller of my, caliber, need to make?
I haven't just been reading this thread, though there is a lot of it. I have been making my way through the Professors videos on youtube and am making a pass through the various forum sections. Hadn't found one entitled Husky yet, so had to ask here.
For the info I've gleaned so far, thanks.
MrClean417
12-29-2010, 20:49
By the way, Schneiderlein, and some others, are you using a dual foot machine? I hate to think that someone can make such good seems with one foot. I've limited experience with a sewing machine, well, not too limited but I can bump my way around one. I just never have put two lines of stitching so parallel.
Wow, it's been a long time.
Let's see. I was about 265. I used this fabric if I remember correctly: Taslan (http://www.owfinc.com/Fabrics/NylonWoven/Misc.Woven.asp#Taslan/Supplex) or Dupot variant called Supplex (http://www.owfinc.com/Fabrics/NylonWoven/Misc.Woven.asp#Taslan/Supplex).
I basically used seat belts (http://www.strapworks.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=902) as my suspension device.
I went with the double rings wit ha ridged line instead of a Hennessey copy. At the time a lot of people were making these Hennessey/Spear hybrid hammocks. They give you the ease of a making a Spear Hammock and the cool Features of a Hennessey.
Weight Loss
Over the past year and a half I've lost 50 lbs, and it's changed my life. I can actually buy "normal" sized clothing. I didn't realize how much carrying that extra weight effected me.
I listened to a guy named Brad Pilon (http://www.youtube.com/user/bradpilon#p/u). Check out his YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/user/bradpilon#p/u) channel. He's a background in science and nutrition, and has read an awful lot of research on what happens to your body when it consumes and doesn't consume food. He debunks a lot of myths out there, and it's all based in scientific research that's been around since World War II.
Think about it: The food service industry has the capacity to feed 3,900 calories per day per capita. That's about twice what you need. Well, what do they do with all that extra food? They convince us to eat it all with slick marketing.
The one thing they don't want you to do is eat less. They'll have you eating all kinds of stuff, i.e., veggie this, and protein that, and sugarless this, and fat-free that, everything except what's needed.
Anyway, that's enough soap boxing.
MrClean417
12-30-2010, 02:14
Eh, 2 years ago I was at 265 until the personal trainer at the Y got a hold of me with one of those diet changes. Then I was 285 when my rotator cuff decided to fail the rest of the way (RC Slope Soaring tear very similar to throwing a baseball IF the baseball weight 5-10 pounds!). Then, as I was recuperating from that, life got in the way.
My days of being 235 and V'd are gone, probably 215 of muscle and the rest flab now. Maybe not, I still do a lot of lifting and toting in the job. When we moved shops last year we had three fork lifts unloading semis. My boss and the dock manager on two of them and me with a pallet jack. They could put things up in shelves, I unloaded faster. It ain't all flab as it takes a bit to get a ton of pallet motivated and controlled for the 150-200 yards of our warehouse. Tonight's Sonic meal was the first crap meal in a week, but I got little to no exercise last week with a cold/flu that left me in bed most of it.
The weights going to come off, I have more 5 K's lined up and have one to run with my buddies at Oshkosh this year, but unless I stop doing the physical work I doubt it will get under 250 so I'm going to need a tougher hammock.
I'm also not doing the lightweight camping/hiking, at least not right now. Maybe when the Gdaughter is old enough to go camping with Grandpa. So a heavier rig is alright, my motorcycle won't mind at all. Just need to make sure the ropes and materials are strong enough.
I'm glad the last post on this 3.5 year old post is only a month ago. I don't feel like such a thread zombie. It is the first thread that brought me to this forum last night. I ran into the Hennessey website a year or two ago when I started planning motorcycle camping. Now, I've made several trips, usually once a year but sometimes more but I hadn't thought of Hammocks till again a couple days ago. On a motorcycle forum a member was asking about camping off the cycle and I mentioned the Hennesey as an option. Another member liked the look but we debated making our own. They of course remembered this thing called the internet and did a search and found you guys.
Have you come up with a good way to use your bike as a 2nd support when there's no trees, or no trees close together? I was thinking of putting my bike up on it's center stand & using the top of my sissy bar/"luggage rack" (1/4" x 1 1/2" steel), but I'm hesitant, worried about pulling the bike over (1980 Goldwing stripped down).
jred, forget the connecting it to the bike. That's a good way to crack your cranium. Just throw down a ground tarp, and use it as a bivy.
MrClean417
12-30-2010, 08:24
Have you come up with a good way to use your bike as a 2nd support when there's no trees, or no trees close together? I was thinking of putting my bike up on it's center stand & using the top of my sissy bar/"luggage rack" (1/4" x 1 1/2" steel), but I'm hesitant, worried about pulling the bike over (1980 Goldwing stripped down).
No center stand on the 900 but I'd not want to pull on the sissybar. The next thing I was going to look at here was supports. It would be nice to have something that folds down to pocket knife side but then folds out to a nice hammock cage. Nearest I've seen, that I could actually take along on the trailer, was a couple of T posts and my rammer. But I think by the time I got it wammed to where I liked it the posts would be permanent. I have seen suspension on walking canes and had figured Maybe two dog chain screws, up to a post of not yet determined length, stabilized with chords to the sides, with the Hammock the center member of my mono-line suspension bridge. Just need to think on a lightweight, adjustable member.
Think, maybe if I can find some old chain link fence top rail. Find a couple of the swagged joints so it can be collapsed from 6 feet to two 3.25 foot sections. Or, if I get some upright, I could use the top fixtures as a stay to run the line through and run the stabilizing cords from. I've seen pictures on this net of folks who have used their cross country sticks but somehow I get the feeling they're dealing with normal size people there.
Anyways, more diggin through the archives. Saw a 3 pole, multi wire 6 person mobile rig last night, that looks great if you're taking a buss of people with plenty of hauling capacity.
MrClean417
12-30-2010, 08:24
If any of this gets a little mixed up, realize that the aformentioned junk meal of lastnight proved I need to not eat it ever again. I've been up 27 hours now. Probably make the bike trip home exciting what with lack of sleep, another 8 hours of semi physical labor and 28 mph winds gusting to 40 like on the way in. Gonna stop at the hardware store and pick up a couple Eyebolts for my room. Turns out I still have a couple of Nylon web hammocks that I bought when my kids were little and we would use in camp there. Don't remember what the weight limit on them was but I used one about 5 years ago at about my current weight. Back when I was a IBM Mainframe tech and lived 60 miles away, if I got stuck without sleep for a day or two I'd rig one up between our parts racks and take a nap before driving home.
I'll at least get to start working on tying knots again.
Well, since this is the Hennessey Clone thread, why don't you build a Safari Clone? It is rated for your weight and is actually a really nice hammock.
210 oxford/packcloth for the body, uncoated
1.5-2" Poly webbing
1/8" Amsteel whoopies
A couple of Camp wiregate 'biners
Hem, gather, whip, go!
BTW, the Safari can be had on Ebay for under $200
Safari on Ebay (http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=hennessy+safari+&_cqr=true&_nkwusc=hennessey+safari&_rdc=1)
MrClean417
12-31-2010, 19:55
What is the difference between the safari, explorer or scout, just physical dimensions and a double bottom?
Most of the problems with the rather new like myself is they all look alike and frankly, other then different colors, they could be using the same picture and I can't tell. I was going to go with the dimensions of the 6'4" guy posted, though I thought of maybe a slightly wider.
None of the models you mentioned have the double bottom, only the Deep Jungle does. I don't think the Scout is asymmetrical, as far as the others I believe it's just physical dimensions as you said. You could go to the HH website and click on "photo/specs" for each one and compare. I open each one in a different tab to make it easier. The Safari is the largest one and probably the right one for you.
MrClean417
01-02-2011, 01:41
I think I was thinking of the WBBB 1.7 double layer which took it's weight capacities from 240 to 375. They are 65 by 120. No wonder I look silly in this 7 foot bed sheet. But that's ok, I don't mind lookin silly.
Looks like the Hennessy is 112 by 52. There's 12 yards of ripstop per bolt at 60 inches. 5 bucks a yard though. I'll need 20 bucks worth.
At the begining of this thread there was a diy hennessy. Hope i'm in the right spot. Success! Allmost! I made an asym with a zip up on one side. half noseeum, other half silny for a wind break unfortunatly I made it too short. I did want to comment on the 'thingies' used for the bridge line... 'Use one line!' I've been running one cord straight through my entire hammock with a minibiner tied with a simple knot, at each end. Very simple to change the angle of the dangle. Just move your biner.
samjaynes
02-06-2011, 14:45
Zippers - Looking at questoutfitters to get the zipper. What length do I need to get - I see they have some premade lengths, and by the foot. Any recommendations?
GvilleDave
02-06-2011, 20:15
I have been buying my zippers (along with fabric etc... from Scott at Backwoods Daydreamer). Just buy by the foot. I think a #3 coil zipper works great for a hammock. Installing the pull is not hard once you get the knack of it.
samjaynes
02-09-2011, 22:56
Here is the procedure I used again, step-by-step:
Hem the long edge of the triangle with a 3/8" single-fold hem.
Attach the triangle to the body, wrong sides together with the triangle at 3/8" and the body at 3/4" seam allowance. By wrong side I mean the inside of the hammock.
Fold the hem of the body fabric over the triangle seam allowance at 3/8" and iron.
Finish the flat-felled seam with a stitch line at ~1/8" from the folded edge.
Extend the 3/8" fold on the body fabric from the flat-felled seam on either side of the triangle all the way along the body (3/8" single-fold hem).
Attach zipper tape flush with the edge, coils agains the outside of the hammock. Use a zipper foot and attach close to the coils.
Fold the zipper tape over and top stitch close to the fold. Use a zipper foot. It may help to iron before sewing.
Add a second line of top-stitching to the zipper close to the edge of the zipper tape. With a #5 zipper, you will likely not be able to do this with a zipper foot, but a regular foot works well against the zipper coil also.
The triangle dimensions are approximate. I used a computer program to generate a template for it based on the geometry of my hammock.
Sorry to bring up an old post, but the pictures are amazing and I am trying to visualize these steps made above. If I am following correctly, you place the triangle on top of the body (where you would lay) and sew to attached. Then fold over the body fabric toward the inside top of the body. This is where I am confused, so how does the traingle point back outside of the body for attachment. Secondly, are all three sides of the traingle attached or just the long end?
Help me visualize this - I am excited to get started on this project.
UberSquid
02-28-2011, 05:29
I have been buying my zippers (along with fabric etc... from Scott at Backwoods Daydreamer). Just buy by the foot. I think a #3 coil zipper works great for a hammock. Installing the pull is not hard once you get the knack of it.
But what if you want separating zippers? I'd like to be able to remove my bug netting but I can't find zippers long enough. I made my hammock a lot longer than standard, 12 feet, and can't find a zipper long enough to make mine detachable.
DiscoveryDiver
02-28-2011, 07:21
But what if you want separating zippers? I'd like to be able to remove my bug netting but I can't find zippers long enough. I made my hammock a lot longer than standard, 12 feet, and can't find a zipper long enough to make mine detachable.
This site has up to 160 inches:
http://www.zipperstop.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=garden_flypage.tpl&product_id=36&category_id=61&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=73
GvilleDave
02-28-2011, 11:31
Also keep in mind that you started w/ 12' of fabric but after you roll hem the ends, etc... you have less than 12' probably. Also if you follow HC4U's instructions and sew the edges together for 8" at each end you have further reduced the zipper length by 16".
UberSquid
02-28-2011, 13:44
This site has up to 160 inches:
http://www.zipperstop.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=garden_flypage.tpl&product_id=36&category_id=61&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=73
Awesome! I just measured and I have a length of 121" total. Once I add in the corner triangle tie out reinforcements it will be at least two inches shorter. (I haven't decided on the size for the triangles yet.)
Thanks for the link! On with the show!
DiscoveryDiver
02-28-2011, 21:52
Awesome! I just measured and I have a length of 121" total. Once I add in the corner triangle tie out reinforcements it will be at least two inches shorter. (I haven't decided on the size for the triangles yet.)
Thanks for the link! On with the show!
..........:thumbup1:
What type of thread did you use? I'm interested in making a new hammock and haven't yet, and this is my main obstacle.
GvilleDave
03-08-2011, 10:12
100% polyester. I use Guterman's that I buy online with my fabric but you can get serviceable thread locally too. When I first started I used a spool of polyester upholstry thread that was too heavy and had a number of sewing machine issues. When I switched to a lighter poly thread those all went away.
Mitch311
03-09-2011, 04:45
Hey,
I am planning on making my first DIY hammock in the next few days. I have been looking at the "thingies" in the original post.
I was planning on having a removable structural ridgeline and I also want to use the ring system for the suspension.
Can the thingy be what you attach your suspension to? I was planning on putting a loop on either side of the whipping for the ridgeline and the suspension to connect to. If not, I will do both "thingies" and a normal larkshead knots suspension setup.
I have read the full thread (over the course a day lol) and one person asked this but I didn't notice an answer.
All the best,
Mitch
Ninja Edit: I got some ripstop (the only stuff I could find in town) it has no Id all. No weight or anything else. Can anyone tell me how much a 60x120" sheet should weigh? With nothing else attached. Trying to decide if I should double it up or not. Got enough to double it.
Mitch311
03-10-2011, 07:22
Anyone? I need to build these tomorrow otherwise I wouldn't be pushing.
Thanks.
GvilleDave
03-10-2011, 10:49
Not really sure what you are talking about on the "thingies" its been a while since I went through the early part of this thread. If I remember right you are talking about the knotted cord that HC4U passed through the whipping that he connected his removable ridgeline to. If I remember there were some problems with this set-up pulling through the wipping and failing.
I would ask why you want to remove the ridgeline?
Do you plan to make your hammock with a traditional whipped end like a HH or a gathered end? I make mine like this thread but instead of a whipped end I sew a small channel and gather the ends WB style like Knotty's thread. Although I do not remove my ridgeline I could easily do so by taking off the suspension (simple larks head connection) and then pulling the fixed loop ridgeline through the gather. Afterwards I could reattach suspension and in about 10 minutes my ridgeline could be removable - but why? The netting would then hang down on me etc... Also since my 9' ridgeline is shorter than the 11' 8" hammock body removing the ridgeline will put stress on the netting which is sized to match the ridgeline length. I could see removing the ridgeline if your hammock did not have a net or the net was removable, but otherwise you lose me on this.
With all that said, If you want an easier way to be able to swap ridgelines in and out (different lengths etc...) you could make 2 short lengths of amsteel with fixed loops at each end. These would pass through the whipping or the gather and your suspension would go through one loop before attaching to the hammock. This would leave the other loop hanging loose inside the hammock at each end that you could attach a removable ridgeline to the inside loops.
Good luck and post pictures!
samjaynes
03-15-2011, 10:36
Not really sure what you are talking about on the "thingies" its been a while since I went through the early part of this thread. If I remember right you are talking about the knotted cord that HC4U passed through the whipping that he connected his removable ridgeline to. If I remember there were some problems with this set-up pulling through the wipping and failing.
I hope not - I just finished my HH clone with this approach. My gather is the W, with strong zipties. The knot is a figure 8 which provides bulk - so far in my testing the ridgeline length, it has held well under stress and loose. My ridgeline is around 98" long end to end for this one.
JohnSawyer
04-30-2011, 01:45
90% done on my daughter's hammock!
Here it is:
http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery/files/4/4/4/9/036_thumb.jpg (http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery/showimage.php?i=13708&c=4) http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery/files/4/4/4/9/037_thumb.jpg (http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery/showimage.php?i=13709&c=4) http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery/files/4/4/4/9/039_thumb.jpg (http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery/showimage.php?i=13710&c=4)
Complete with zipper triangle.
You may notice a plethora of zig-zag stitches. This was my first DIY hammock, inspired by Risk's Z-Hammock. I pulled it out of retirement for my 12 year old. The fabric is 9' long, (Bought from Speer) hemmed all around, and then made to this thread's specs. I was thinking I'd go with the BB style whipping, but thought I'd give this a try. The 9' is definitely too short for my 6' frame, but it was surprisingly comfortable. There is no calf pressure, and it really lays flat.
My only deviation from the original instructions is that I put the pull-outs 20" off the center.
The bugnet is Organza, which I really like. From a durablility perspective, it doesn't snag like netting, the holes are smaller, and it's available in a variety of colors. The zipper is a 3mm zipper from BWDD. (Thanks Scott!) I have to say I am truly surprised how easy the zipper was to do. I was worried that the #3 zipper would be too small, or fragile, but it works great. Joann's had 10' zippers, but wanted $15! I bought 30' of zipper and 6 pulls for $9! from Scott...
All that's left is to trim up the net a bit on the inside. While sewing the net shifted/stretched a bit. One pic you can kinda see how I had to dart the net to get it to fit properly... Any tips on how to make it come out cleanly?
My next one is for my son, who outgrew the first one I made him.... the next project after that one is my 1.1DL Camo (again, from Scott at BWDD). The fabric is nice and wide. I'll probably go with 10'6" on that one, with a BB style footbox (lefty of course.) I'm still torn between the pullouts like the HH, or to go more like a Jerry5 hammock... (Sigh) Too many decisions! :rolleyes:
John
fred1diver
05-01-2011, 15:58
quick question, has anyone tried to install a shelf like on a WBBB on a hh clone????
if so any luck, making one for the gf and I might try it unless it's not doable!!!
fred1diver
05-01-2011, 16:00
looking very good john!!! :boggle:
GvilleDave
05-01-2011, 21:29
The WBBB shelf comes from the shape of the hammock body. You may want to search the DIY forum for the DIY Warbird thread that describes a wbbb clone.
The shelf is the one thing I really miss about my WBBB...
fred1diver
05-02-2011, 11:58
The WBBB shelf comes from the shape of the hammock body. You may want to search the DIY forum for the DIY Warbird thread that describes a wbbb clone.
yes I understand that completely but has anyone ever tried it :confused:
I have to set it up to make the pattern for the netting anyways, so I have the main shape of the body! I can probably make a little shelf almost the size of the bb's, the only thing I'm not sure, since I've never seen a BB in person is the opening for the shelf :confused:
anyone else have any idea's
FRED
JohnSawyer
05-03-2011, 12:24
Checkout the BB Clone instructions here:
http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/showthread.php?t=23450
The shelf shouldn't be too hard to make, it's just a matter of sizing the bugnet appropriately.
The main reason for the BB tie-outs is to make the hammock roomy and to stretch out the shelf. The HH hammock uses asym tie-outs to almost force the diagonal lay. (both situations, the tie-outs keep the bugnet taut and out of your face...
My Son's hammock is next, and it's 10' long. I'm planning a footbox and bottom or end-zip entry. In hind-sight I should have made my daughter's bigger. She's 5'2" and already looking squished. I'd give it 6 months, then you'll find it on the For Sale page...
bgraybackpacker
05-04-2011, 22:00
So I am thinking of adding two pockets on this HH Clone. One will be just above the pull out on the right side and the other will be middle on the left side. What sort of diagonal sag will I experience with the Right Side. Should I make the shape in a parallelogram of some sort so that the pocket doesn't twist when loaded down and hangs straight up and down? This is my major conundrum in starting my 2nd DIY hammock.
fred1diver
05-09-2011, 16:53
OK so I mentioned that I wanted to make an HH clone but add a shelf, works great, I did a warbonned whipping on it and WOW is it ever comfy :boggle: a lot better than my original HH asym
OK so I know the rules, no pics or it didn't happen so here they are!!!
next time definitely gonna try a foot box!!!
yes I know the GF is lying in the wrong direction!!! but she was too comfy to try the other side
DiscoveryDiver
05-09-2011, 19:04
Looks great!
Okay so...i have my material for my clone...just have a question or two...what if i run the ridgeline all the way thru and use it as the first wrap in the whipped ends, then use the whoopie slings...2nd question i found some halloween mesh that is a poly-blend(hancock fabrics) it looks like eno bug net material and very stretchy...draw back its 48" and very stretchy...and what type of cord should i as the ridgeline...any help would be appreciated...
fred1diver
05-18-2011, 12:22
what if i run the ridgeline all the way thru and use it as the first wrap in the whipped ends,
neat idea try it, it should work, just don't cut it yet make sure it's adjusted properly before :scared: on the ground...
2nd question i found some halloween mesh that is a poly-blend(hancock fabrics) it looks like eno bug net material and very stretchy...draw back its 48" and very stretchy...
depending on how much you have, you could sew two panel side by side to make a 96" and trim to right size :confused: or add a 6" trim piece on each side and you have a 60" wide panel :)
and what type of cord should i as the ridgeline... depends on your budget and what you have on hand, I used 2mm acc. cord, some people use zing it or something similar, the hammock body will be supporting your weight, not sure about the force applied on the RL but not that much
the fun part about DIY is experimenting, have fun and don't forget the pics :D
GvilleDave
05-20-2011, 14:21
I run my ridgeline all the way from end to end w/ a fixed loop at each end. the line is fed through the gathered end and the suspension line goes through the loops before attaching w/ a larks head. Simple but works for me as I don't need a removable ridgeline.
JohnSawyer
05-20-2011, 19:17
So I tried a hybrid HH with a BB style footbox. The footbox, mated with the HH whipping shortened one side so much that it came up to the ridgeline. (FAIL!)
So I removed the footbox... I hope to finish it tonight! (ok, 2 of them: One for my son and I)
John
P.S. After that failure.. (yes, I cut the bugnet before I figured it out) I was remmebering the demotivational poster: -- It may be that the purpose of your life is to serve as a warning to others...
SpaceCadet
05-23-2011, 11:01
I am wanting to try this HH clone for my "little" brother. He is 6'3" and 300lbs. I have 6yards of 1.9oz 72" wide. Should I try it wider or longer since my brother is big or do you all think that the given dimensions would work for a guy his size? It I go longer or wider how do you think this will affect the locations of the side pulls? Should they be further apart?
I am wanting to try this HH clone for my "little" brother. He is 6'3" and 300lbs. I have 6yards of 1.9oz 72" wide. Should I try it wider or longer since my brother is big or do you all think that the given dimensions would work for a guy his size? It I go longer or wider how do you think this will affect the locations of the side pulls? Should they be further apart?
There was a similar question and discussion back on pages 37 (http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/showthread.php?t=670&page=37) and 38 (http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/showthread.php?t=670&page=38).
I would say just use the full width of your fabric and add another foot or two to the standard length. You probably would also need to move the tie-out points several inches closer to the ends. That is up to you to decide on but a few people have suggested that Hennessy puts the tie-outs to close to center anyway.
However, it's questionable whether the 1.9 oz fabric can hold that much weight. You might be able to get away with it but it's probably best to go for the safe option and use stronger fabric. All of Hennessy's larger and heavier-rated hammocks such as the Explorer (http://hennessyhammock.com/catalog/specs/explorer_deluxe_asym_zip/) and Safari (http://hennessyhammock.com/catalog/specs/safari_deluxe_zip/) use 210D nylon. You could also do a double layer hammock out of the 1.9 oz nylon but you would need more than 6 yards anyway.
If anyone has different ideas, feel free to correct me as I'm only going on what I've read.
SpaceCadet
05-23-2011, 19:45
DO you think 2 Ply Supplex Nylon Fabric WR (http://cgi.ebay.com/New-Black-2-Ply-Supplex-Nylon-Fabric-WR-/400206291269?pt=US_Fabric&hash=item5d2e276145#ht_1103wt_702) would be a good choice for a 300lbs person?
JohnSawyer
05-24-2011, 21:57
Warbonnet says double-layer 1.7 is good to 400lbs. 9' is definitely not long enough, IMHO.
I'd go with 11' raw fabric...
SwampSloth
05-24-2011, 22:17
DO you think 2 Ply Supplex Nylon Fabric WR (http://cgi.ebay.com/New-Black-2-Ply-Supplex-Nylon-Fabric-WR-/400206291269?pt=US_Fabric&hash=item5d2e276145#ht_1103wt_702) would be a good choice for a 300lbs person?
you could go with this http://cgi.ebay.com/New-72-Black-1-9-oz-Ripstop-Nylon-Fabric-/400164011141?pt=US_Fabric&hash=item5d2ba23c85#ht_1052wt_905
SpaceCadet
05-25-2011, 04:19
Can you do a double layer version of this HH clone?
fred1diver
05-25-2011, 05:45
That's what I did, double layer, I fallowed the instruction up to the whipping, I did a warbonnet style whipping, sooo comfy!!!
Finally getting going on this design... Anyone have any leads on where I can get zippers for the covers?
Planning on doing 1 "no see um" cover, and one cold weather insulated (reflective maybe) cover.
Finally getting going on this design... Anyone have any leads on where I can get zippers for the covers?
Planning on doing 1 "no see um" cover, and one cold weather insulated (reflective maybe) cover.
Scott is a member here. http://www.diygearsupply.com/
Finally getting going on this design... Anyone have any leads on where I can get zippers for the covers?
Planning on doing 1 "no see um" cover, and one cold weather insulated (reflective maybe) cover.
If you want the covers to be removable, you obviously need a couple of detachable zippers. They are pretty hard to find long enough for a hammock. HC4U got some from cheap sleeping bags which you can see on pg 3 of this thread. He shows you the finished product on pg 7 and 8.
Well the shell of my clone is done just need to add the netting and bam done...not as skilled of a DIY, but dang it is fun...pics will be up soon...
Why is the side of HH Clone folding in on its self even with the tie outs and bug net?
claywaters13
07-14-2011, 14:14
This thread has been incredibly useful. It has inspired me to make my own hh clone. I decided to upload some pics.
My hammock has a theme I guess of being green. Everything so far is recycled other than the thread used. The fabric is 100% recycled PET(plastic bottles) which is equivalent to polyester.
I plan on installing a bug net with zippers and building an underquilt and and top cover when I get a chance and some materials. Anyone have advice on recycled materials for a bug net, under quilt, or tarp.
ZMad2000
07-25-2011, 21:45
I am working on my HH clone with a warbonnet whipping and was just wondering which way should i put the tie out on??? I like to lay the same way Shug does in his vids, you know the "wrong" way to lay on a warbonnet.
JohnSawyer
08-04-2011, 02:06
I am working on my HH clone with a warbonnet whipping and was just wondering which way should i put the tie out on??? I like to lay the same way Shug does in his vids, you know the "wrong" way to lay on a warbonnet.
I, too am a lefty sleeper... Just reverse your tie-outs accordingly... I space mine a little further apart, too... like 18", though i am not sure if that's better or worse than the spec... It does complicate the UQ, but I make my own, so no big deal...
John
Catavarie
08-04-2011, 02:50
Could you put double tie outs on a HH clone? Or is it then just a BB clone minus the footbox and shelf?
I put double tie-outs on the side opposite of my zipper it seems to work fine just need to perfect my whipping to make it work better...
Terraplane
09-21-2011, 21:24
I made one of these clones a few years ago and just re-read some of this thread. I found 20' lightweight zippers from The Yard Store in Wichita, KS
http://www.yardstore.com/index.htm
$2.95 each. I don't think they list them on the web site but call or e-mail them and they can get them off the shelf. I think they have 10 or 12' ones too.
Good luck! This thread just goes on and on.....
Terraplane
OneThing
11-16-2011, 22:54
I just finished reading all 43 pages. Thanks to headchange4u for everything and to all those who also kicked in new ideas along the way. I'm still in the planning stage, but feel it's very doable from reading & seeing the HH clones those made so far.
The hardest part I think I might find is the zipper, but I'll worry about it when I get there.
Thanks again to all.
Superfluous Grizzly
12-01-2011, 09:40
Very cool, great job!
Thanks to those that have put up their work and thoughts. I'm working on mine. I planned on making it a little longer, but a bad cut an other project limit what was left.
So after hemming all the way around I ended up with a piece 110x64, it's 1.1. I make knot things with an eye, and use a soft shackle and an zing it whoopie to find the ridge line length. Right now 91 seems to be good, but I'm not done playing.
I also changed the folds, I did it like HC4U first, but then did a fan fold with 8 folds a side I think, and made sure the edges where the tube was formed was at the top when I whipped it. To me this lays a little better. I may try another way too... just for fun.
Once I settle on all the minor adjustments, folds, ridge line length etc..., I'll made a regular ridge line still attach it with a soft shackle though, and trim the whippings etc...
pjhire89
12-04-2011, 23:26
where did you get that green ripstop from? is it 1.9 oz?
Its 1.1 and I got from http://www.diygearsupply.com/
Nice looking hammock ciphoto :) I am having problems with the whipping, I tried the folding method it turned out weird. I can lay down in the hammock okay if lay diagonally. When lying from end to end the hammock is too tight from the middle and too loose from the sides. I'll just have to redo the whipping when I have time or try a different whipping method. Also I need to read this thread through tomorrow :D
guinesskid
12-20-2011, 23:54
Love the pics! Does not get any simpler
Thanks virkkte,
I had a similar problem with the center being too tight with one of the set ups, but not sure if playing with the ridge line or the folds helped more.
danielleung314
01-08-2012, 12:27
I am a newbie here and i really appreciate what you guys have done and shared in the thread! They are just too useful for new diyers like me! (Actually I shouldn't call myself a diyer as I havn't made anything yet! Let's hope this will be my first diy item!)
Yet, I still have some questions.
1. Why all you guys go for a asym hammock? Whats good about asym? why not a sym one?
2. is it a good idea to add a bottom entry as well? it seems very convenient to me...
3. Can I use thinner ripstop? I want to make it as light as possible. anyone tried with less oz ripstop?
4. How did you guys trim the bugnet to the right shape??
thanks guys!
Daniel
HillHopper
01-30-2012, 13:41
Great project. I am starting my DIY hammock, but wanted to get a few thoughts? Do you think Ripstop COATED would work? Or really lock in the condisation while sleeping? I had the thought to have a hammock/bivy if no trees were available...I'm bikepacking the CT in July.
Any thoughts?
Flackfizer
01-30-2012, 15:07
The general rule is to stay away from coated as it will become slippery with sweat. I use coated on the lower (outward facing) layer of my DIY UQ, and some people worried that even that would be moisture collecting. It is not. But, a coated hammock would be moist.
HillHopper
01-30-2012, 15:46
great thoughts. Hmmm.? I'm trying to minimize, yet be full prepared for this. Thanks again.
Mosquito net details.
Head change 4U
What kind of zippers did you use that allow you to remove the top panels?
Can the endless zippers be disconnected and then restarted even though they don't have the starter metal piece??
instead of folding the whip ends, can you use a version of "knottys whip"?----a 1 inch drawstring channel? Or does that not work because of the assym? Just wondering.............by the way, great thread---lots of wonderful ideas!
I am new to hammock camping and am a huge DIY person. I am competent in the skills required to make a hammock and have the necessary tools. I am just doing research now as to what type of design I want to make, and collecting info on the supplies needed.
So far this is the design I like most. I have one question, though. With the bug net on the top, and not encircling the whole hammock (as in the case of a bug sock seen here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_ubLVqexckU&feature=related), what is keeping mosquito's from landing on the underside (exposed nylon) and biting you through it? I really like the design, but would like to sleep without getting bit even more. I also like the tie-outs a lot, making the bug sock an ousted option. Is it just a trade-off situation?:confused:
I would think that since usually your bottom side would be protected from your insulation ie. pad or UQ, you would not have to worry about being bitten from below. But I guess if your just relaxing w/o your insulation that could be a possibility.
FontanaHorseman
06-16-2012, 06:32
So far this is the design I like most. I have one question, though. With the bug net on the top, and not encircling the whole hammock (as in the case of a bug sock seen here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_ubLVqexckU&feature=related), what is keeping mosquito's from landing on the underside (exposed nylon) and biting you through it? I really like the design, but would like to sleep without getting bit even more. I also like the tie-outs a lot, making the bug sock an ousted option. Is it just a trade-off situation?:confused:
I am using this design with a double-layer of 1.1 ripstop...this allows use of pads between the layers and also keeps skeeters from getting to you from below!
Great thread and lots of great ideas scattered throughout!
My thanks to all involved.
wouldn't your sleeping bag/pad keep the mosquito's from biting you?
I'm having a hard time deciding if I want a double layer 1.1 or a single.
ricksrover2
07-02-2012, 18:50
i tried this for my self and it has to be the best night sleep i ever had as soon as it was done enough for me to lay in it i knew it was going to be "The One" and it was made so easy with your instructions thanks for posting
motorgirl112
07-09-2012, 17:59
How long are the shock cords on the a sym tie outs?
JosephCurwen
07-17-2012, 07:35
Just made one for about 20 $ with a duvet cover got at summer sales and some webbing.
Nice place to enjoy a "raspberry mojito" :)
http://uppix.net/b/4/4/e089aa797203301734ad8b6054c01.jpg
doctor patches
07-17-2012, 16:50
Just made one for about 20 $ with a duvet cover got at summer sales and some webbing.
Nice place to enjoy a "raspberry mojito" :)
http://uppix.net/b/4/4/e089aa797203301734ad8b6054c01.jpg
You're a bad man, Leroy Brown
Hi, this is my first post on the forums, but I've been lurking and soaking up the knowledge for a while. I recently made the plunge and bought a hammock system from Hennessy - the Scout Classic. Tried it out last night in the backyard, but it was really difficult to get flat diagonally and I'm well below the max height. There might have been one perfect spot where I was flat, but it took a lot of finangling to get into and if I shifted at all, I would be uncomfortable again.
I'd like to try making this hammock but without the side tie-outs (I believe someone mentioned they don't really affect how you would lay in the hammock) and with one of those enveloping shockcord bugnets. My question is, would I still need to do that 8" hemming on the ends? Or would I just start rolling it? Would this work if I did a gathered end hammock, since I understand that process a bit better?
Thanks for any help you can provide!
cloudedice
08-01-2012, 19:14
My question is, would I still need to do that 8" hemming on the ends? Or would I just start rolling it? Would this work if I did a gathered end hammock, since I understand that process a bit better?
From my understanding of the two designs, the only real difference is in the way you gather the end. With the knotty design, you bunch up the end by running a cord through the end channel. With Speer hammocks, I believe you bunch up the end and pull the corners out further than the rest to avoid the floppy sides. Follow the folding directions in the first post and whip the ends.
As for the 8 inch hem, I believe it's not needed but added to provide a better box. Rolling the end as described in the first post should provide the result you're looking for
"I started by checking the HH site for dimensions of the fabric for the HH ULBA which was 120" x 60". "
Hi there: I was on Hennessy Hammock site, and his specifications for ULBA claim dimensions are 100" x 48" and their max height is 6'. The Explorer model, which claims a max height of 7', lists dimensions of 108" x 56". Am I missing something? I'm 6'3" and I just want to make one big enough. Compared to the above mentioned HH specs, I'm assuming 120" x 60" should be plenty big for my height. Thanks for any advice!
BTW, great site and contributors!
BigTurtle
09-20-2012, 17:39
just got done making a tripple layer for my cousin and it came out great and he loves it. and as we all so no pics or it didnt happen so here it is lol.
islandman8302
09-20-2012, 20:35
BT, that is one nice looking hammock! Great job!
BigTurtle
09-24-2012, 02:33
Ty but I just sold it to fund a ultralight setup
Bout to start ordering fabric and was wondering if there was a reason everyone was using 1.9 ripstop instead of 210 denier nylon. I dont know the difference between them and thought I would ask. Also should I get coated or uncoated?
webhanger
10-05-2012, 02:04
Dont know the difference between the two fabrics. However i would choose the uncoated for condensation purposes. Probably more comfy too.
Catavarie
10-05-2012, 04:13
Most people likely use the 1.9 because it is available in most every fabric store; so people can just walk in and grab it, instead of waiting for it to show up in the mail.
Wittsertuck
10-17-2012, 22:11
Simple question - what are the tradeoffs between using a zipper versus velcro for the bug netting?
Here's my initial take on the trade-offs"
Cost: the Velcro would be much cheaper is my guess. I haven't priced zippers in years.
weight: the velcro would be lighter.
ease of use: a. The velcro can be a pain to line up to close, but b. can be opened at any point without having to start at the end like a zipper. Opening at any point could be important if you only wanted a small opening, e.g., to stick your arm out. c. the Velcro would be harder to close properly after getting into the hammock. d. the bug netting could possibly get caught in the zipper and cause damage to the bug netting. e. The bug netting could get hooked by the hook side of the Velcro and possibly damaged in dis-engaging.
maintenance: zippers can jam and lose teeth, not often but Murphy's Law states that it will happen at the most inconvenient time. Velcro is fairly maintenance free - just make sure that the loops are on the hammock body and not the hooks.
Comfort: Velcro backing is fairly rigid and this may irritate.
Other points to consider?
Anybody with experience either way?
Would the new Omni tape be better or easier/better than traditional Velcro (if you can find a source)?
Velcro has a tendency to be worn out over time, and it would be difficult to replace if you plan on using the hammock long term. being out in the woods where there can be rogue plant material on you or just floating around, this will get stuck in the velcro, its a major pain to get out and can build up in spots making the velcro not very effective. you mihgt be better off not using anything to attach the netting, just drape it over and tuck it under yourself. it can be a more convenient method and can have other uses. i've been backpacking with a friend who used his mosquito net to catch his dinner every night.
I am curious as to why no one is experimenting with DIY Exped Ergo style hammocks. I realize that their construction is infinitely more complicated and probably requires a greater skill level, but from my eye it looks to be worth the effort. Putting the support lines to the side (offset) rather than at the ends just seems to make sense.
WickedKlown2
11-12-2012, 22:49
Here is my take on the DIY Hennessy Hammock using Wally World dollar bin calendered nylon. I started out making the Knotty gathered end and well I ended up making a few changes and it transformed. I did use Knotty's stretch side mod on this and it worked out great. Next in line is adding the bug net and doing a Bishop bag. Please excuse the mess in my garage and hopefully tomorrow I can get some pics of it out in the wild :)
http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff63/wickedklown2/DH-3.jpg
Thank You headchange4u and Knotty for the instructions and great ideas :D
Hope everybody likes :)
BushcraftNsite
12-18-2012, 23:37
Nice! i wouldnt of got rid of my HH if would of thought of that!
Thunderchi1d
12-31-2012, 12:23
I've been sort of working on copying this hammock... My bug netting came in recently and was thinking of working on it, but wanted to figure it out before jumping in and doing something that will take hours to un-stitch. After doing some thinking I have 2 questions.
Because I'm not sold on the side entry... (don't want to hassle with zippers mostly)
1) Is it considered mostly "safe" to put in a bottom entry like the older style Hennesy? I've thought about it and think I have a good way to keep the hammock from failing (knock on wood). One of the posts with pictures I think had a bottom entry.
2) The real questions (because I'm probably going to try it anyway? :unsure: ) How long is the entry slit? As far as placement, next to the feet area? Will I want to use a stretchy fabric for reinforcing the slit, or would some poly webbing work?
*Edit: If I wanted to avoid cutting a slit in the bottom of the hammock could I just do a "side" entry with a 3 foot chunk of velcro?
hikehunter
01-03-2013, 20:21
I like the lay-out. I have some of the same elements build into mine. Question: full or 3/4 under quilt? I want to finish it and hang it to find the best placement for some of the tie-outs. I am thinking of making an equipment pocket in the under quilt. what you think?
cloudedice
01-03-2013, 21:19
1) Is it considered mostly "safe" to put in a bottom entry like the older style Hennesy? I've thought about it and think I have a good way to keep the hammock from failing (knock on wood). One of the posts with pictures I think had a bottom entry.
It should be plenty safe to put in a bottom entry. You're just going to have to cut a big slit down the middle.
2) How long is the entry slit?
From the whipped end to basically where your butt is when you lay in the hammock. So probably about half way.
As far as placement, next to the feet area?
Right down the center of the hammock. When you lay asymmetrically the pressure from your feet bunches the fabric up down the center (where the knee ridge is typically formed) closing the slit. You might not need omni tape to keep the bugs out (someone said not to use full Velcro) but it will help keep the slit closed.
Will I want to use a stretchy fabric for reinforcing the slit, or would some poly webbing work?
You probably don't want to use stretchy fabric, but I bet scrap rip stop or any kind of webbing will work fine. Someone in this thread used webbing or grosgrain, not sure which.
*Edit: If I wanted to avoid cutting a slit in the bottom of the hammock could I just do a "side" entry with a 3 foot chunk of velcro?
It may work, but I'd be worried about the difficulty of getting in a 3 ft slit on the side. I'm also not sure it would self close, which i think is the biggest benefit of the bottom entry. If you're going to put something on the side do a full zipper. It's probably the most popular mod for the HH anyway.
I should note that I've never seen a HH. Everything I said was cleaned from this and other threads discussion making an HH clone. So take my thoughts with a grain of salt. :)
Love the DIY idea... I have a Hennessy with the bug net of course, but would love to have a net-free design for winter use. No use for the net then, and it should make a slight difference in weight and bulk (so my 0* underquilt has more room in the pack! I might have to try this one out.
Thunderchi1d
01-24-2013, 15:19
You all are right about the side entrance . Time to make a new hammock :) I'm not very bummed though because It was a good practice hammock and didn't cost me very much. I have tweaked the design some out of personal preference, and will post some pics when I get done... (may have to be reminded, also may not qualify as a Hennessy anymore...) Anyway was thinking about the whole getting the fleece sleeping bags for their zipper thing and thought that it would also be a nice excuse to try to make a few other gear things with the fleece (not hammock related).
hofer150
02-18-2013, 11:41
Just wondering, as far as materials go, if the 1.1 oz ripstop nylon from DIY gear supply (backwoods day dreamer) will be durable enough. I'm just looking for additional input.
Thanks to Headchange4u for starting this post. We finished our version of the HH clone and hex tarp. Now we just need to put it into use. We are still tweaking it, so we don't have final weight. We purchased most of our materials from DIY gear and used their suggestions on the Hex Tarp. Thank you DIY Gear. Great place to purchase from and super quick shipping.
samjaynes
03-26-2013, 16:32
Has anyone made this in a 11' foot body? I made this one a year ago, and it felt a little short for me, or at least I couldn't get it to lay right for me. I was wondering if the length contributed to this, the section that is sewed together on the ends, etc?
Thanks,
Ok, this is a great site and a really great thread! Thanks to all who have posted. I'm a total newbie to hammocks, and I'm tired of tenits (for the obvious reasons to all of you!) I'm going to be hiking/camping in Yosemite in Sept, and I was looking on ebay for a good used hammock, but was confused/concerned about the amount of crappy looking or extremely expensive hammocks there, so I started to search the web for a DIY, and ended up here.
I have a few questions about HC4U's design that hopefully someone who has made one can help me with...
1) He uses 1.9oz ripstop, and it appears that he only uses one layer, correct? I've seen a design with two layers of 1.1oz that allows a pad to be slid between the two layers for insulation. Anyone have experience with this design?
2) I've seen another design that uses a rope loop through a tube sewed along each end of the hammock instead of bundling and whipping. Has anyone had experience with this approach and what are the advantages/drawbacks?
3) I've seen these fancy ridgelines that are adjustable, but is that necessary? Once you set it to the length that's best for you, won't you keep it at that length? Also, I would think that you need to have a very strong ridgeline if it is expected to carry some of the load if you are too tight on your suspension straps. Is this true?
4) Has anybody had experience just using Tyvek for a fly?
Thanks in advance for your responses!
Xzzxzzx
laziboie
03-30-2013, 23:41
Some more great info, thanks!
Wow.... Thank you Hc4U , 1Adam 12 and Wilson especially but really everyone who's contributing to this thread. Couple questions...
1Adam12 do you have dimensions/pattern for yours? Also, what fold pattern/method did you use?
I saw Wilson mention that the head and foot ends were folded differently but never found a pattern or mention of what the difference was. Can anyone point me to a link if I just missed it?
thank!
Thanks to Headchange4u for starting this post. We finished our version of the HH clone and hex tarp. Now we just need to put it into use. We are still tweaking it, so we don't have final weight. We purchased most of our materials from DIY gear and used their suggestions on the Hex Tarp. Thank you DIY Gear. Great place to purchase from and super quick shipping.
That third picture showing the pull out and zipper really shows off your craftsmanship. GREAT job. Makes me really want to do this. Has anyone determined how much this project costs? I really can't afford to buy a Henny or anything nice that is over $100.
Thanks!
Scott
1Adam12 do you have dimensions/pattern for yours? Also, what fold pattern/method did you use?
The dimensions I used were the same as HeadChange4U recommended in his initial post. I pretty much followed his directions except for the tie outs. The tie outs I tried to copy from a friend of our's Hennessy Hammock.
I made a cheap prototype from $1 yard material from Walmart to practice before I purchased all the materials for the final ones.
I followed the fold pattern that Headchange4U used in his initial post. I tried different ways to fold it and also tried it gathered like the warbonnet is, but we ended up going back to folding 5 times inward toward the center on each side and then we whipped the end with paracord. There is a good video on Youtube about whipping the ends on a search for DIY Quick & Easy Camping Hammock
What I like about doing this ourselves is that we can take it apart and try different methods to see how comfortable it is. We ended up going back to the original fold method that Headchange4U recommended. Thanks for letting us know you liked it. It is definitely rewarding to make something you can use.
That third picture showing the pull out and zipper really shows off your craftsmanship. GREAT job. Makes me really want to do this. Has anyone determined how much this project costs? I really can't afford to buy a Henny or anything nice that is over $100.
Thanks!
Scott
Thanks Scott. The cost like anything will really depend on what you want to put into it. The initial prototype I made using "undetermined fabric content" material from Wal-Mart and taking a zipper out a sleeping bag I wasn't going to use anymore probably cost me $20. Our final cost for everything we made was close to $300. But we have two complete sets of Hammock with bug netting, JCPenney puffer jacket TQ & UQ, Hex Tarps, snakeskins, whoopie slings, tree huggers and compression bags to put it all in. I ordered most of our supplies from DIY Gear and they were great. I would highly recommend them. They also have DIY tutorials on there. A friend of mine with a Warbonnet BlackBird (which is super nice) paid much more than that for just one set of all listed above.
Hey guys.
Instead of Velcro, how about sewing little square pockets and enclosing rare earth magnets on one side and say dimes on the other side?
It will add weight but possibly more durable.
Ghillieshot
05-22-2013, 20:19
Since re-rolling and re-whipping costs nothing and can't make it worse, you're silly for not trying that first. I personally don't like Headchange's method and much prefer the Risk/Hennessy method. But I've also had some surprising success from the "fold in half/scrunch into a messy ball and whip" technique as well. In a nutshell: unwhip, re-roll, and try it again.
Oh, and what FF said: smile a little!
Hi there Terceiro,
I am very keen to find this Risk/Hennessy role method. Can you please pm me with a link. I haven't been able to find it. Cheers mate.
Ghillie
Nice writeup! Quite helpful!
New2trees
04-29-2014, 00:08
Cant Thank you enough for providing such wonderful instructions, I made my first hammock and it turned out great using Walmart $1 Nylon
84862 84864
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84861
Ghillieshot
05-16-2014, 10:55
How did you get your zipper to come fully off? I can't seem to find anywhere that will sell zippers long enough that have the end part that dis-attaches. Any ideas would be great thanks as I am wanting one that the netting can come off fully.
Ghillieshot.
kerryandjane
05-18-2014, 09:32
How did you get your zipper to come fully off? I can't seem to find anywhere that will sell zippers long enough that have the end part that dis-attaches. Any ideas would be great thanks as I am wanting one that the netting can come off fully.
Ghillieshot.
Questoutfitters: For all your outdoor DIY zipper needs. (http://questoutfitters.com/zippers.htm#MAKE YOUR OWN ZIPPERS)
Just finished making my DIY Hennesey (gonna get to give it a run out on a trip next week). Thanks for the great directions. I know this is an old thread, but I thought I'd share a couple tips for anyone who's interested. They're mainly related to the bugnet. The bug net is awesome, and while I understood the instructions HeadChange4U posted, I ended up taking a slightly different approach to measuring and prepping. I setup the hammock in the living room and pinned the bugnet in place. Then I marked the noseeum in situ. This allowed me to make small adjustments to the tension of the netting. I pinned it in place all around, then adjusted to make sure that there weren't any loose spots or tight spots. Making these constant little adjustments allowed me to dial in the layout. Then, I used a sharpie to mark out the pin locations, cut off the excess, and sewed the zipper on from there. BTW, noseeum stretches REALLY easily. So when sewing with netting, make sure that your not stretching the netting when feeding the machine. I didn't think I was, but it's a lot stretchier than I thought. In the end, I felt like I was feeding too much netting to the machine, but that's what it took to get the zippers lined up properly. Also, make sure that you sew the both zippers from the same end (I used the head end) and notone from the foot end and another from the head end. The reason is that if you do stretch it (you will) at least the zippers will line up okay because they'll start together. I also wanted to make sure that the zippers (in my case single pull detachable zippers) both started from the head end for ease of access.
Regardless, thanks a lot for posting the instructions. There's no way I could have done this without them. I definitely caught the bug and am already planning a second for my wife.
Flatliner
08-21-2014, 12:58
OK, I have missed something in reading this. Is the hammock supposed to be a rectangle or a parallelogram in more of a diamond like shape. Is the tie-out really the only thing that makes the HH "Asymmetric"?
OK, I have missed something in reading this. Is the hammock supposed to be a rectangle or a parallelogram in more of a diamond like shape. Is the tie-out really the only thing that makes the HH "Asymmetric"?
I'm no expert (having only just finished mine), but I sewed it together like a rectangle, and once it's whipped, it becomes a diamond. The tie outs making it asymmetric like a parallelogram. Without the tie outs, it lays symmetrically. The bug net is cut as a parallelogram though.
I have not gone to the bug net yet.... But just wanted to know how the hammock was setup while the net was sized? Was something put in to weight and spread it out?
Just finished making my DIY Hennesey..................... . I setup the hammock in the living room and pinned the bugnet in place. Then I marked the noseeum in situ. This allowed me to make small adjustments to the tension of the netting. I pinned it in place all around, then adjusted to make sure that there weren't any loose .
I have not gotten to the net yet but can't visualize how to get the hammock setup without me in it. Did you do the adjustment from inside or outside? Were you laying in it while pinning or did you add weight to the hammock some how?
Okay....... I just jumped in and did my own thing here. I finished up last night and I am happy to say the results are beautiful if I have to say so myself! Lol
I hung the hammock in the garage and tied out the pull outs tight to something heavy. I used a foot of 1/8 shock cord on each and the 3ft of Lash It. I placed the netting in place and pinned around the edges. I am not planning on anything else but the netting on this hammock so I just sewed it on. I did one straight section at a time and stopped and rehung it and adjusted the pins. I left one section open and used pennies for weight to keep it closed.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/09/01/ubebyryh.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/09/01/epe2uta7.jpg
It was windy when I tried to get some outside pictures but I will try to post more later.
I made my own suspension as well. I made UCRs from Zing It and a fixed ridge line from ZI too. I made Diamond knot loops from Amsteel and put the Ridgeline through the whipped end and looped over the end loop. I put a sliding constrictor knot on the end from orange Lash It and it holds the suspension onto the Diamond knot. Hammock weighs in at 378g and total with suspension it is 440g or 15.5ozs. I will have to see how it goes this weekend..... First trip out.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/09/01/tusu9equ.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/09/01/edenytun.jpg
Okay....... I just jumped in and did my own thing here. I finished up last night and I am happy to say the results are beautiful if I have to say so myself! Lol
Nice work! Sorry, I was out of town for a bit there. But yes, I did exactly what you did. Set it up in the living room without me in it and lay the netting on top and pinned it down. I tightened and adjusted it a few times to make sure that the tension was even throughout. Because of the structural ridgeline, I don't think having weight in the hammock changes the dimensions required for the hammock too much. I screwed up the sewing a little, but the netting is pretty even and taut with me in it.
Nice looking hammock, good luck out your first trip out!
Okay..... Updates. I flew up to RI and stayed 4 nights. I spent the first three nights in my new DIYHH and loved it. It was such a huge improvement over my old Speer style. I had no issues falling out, my knees hurting, or my back hurting. I think I actually slept on my side and stomach a little bit during the night. I didn't figure out exactly where my head felt best but I didn't need a pillow or props under my knees for support. I am very pleased with the results and now need take some time and make a good tarp for it. I have two tarps and neither fit right...... So next project in the works
I have spent the last week reading this thread and have taken notes. I bought some ripstop from a local store. I am going with an 11ft piece x 60 inches. I'm affraid that my ripstop may only be 1.1 oz but can't say for certain as it didn't list the weight on the bolt. I'm going to go ahead and make it anyway. I'll try it out. If it won't sustain my 220lbs than maybe I'll give it to the wife. I was ready to pay close to 300 for a brand new hammock system. I only went to research a way to make my own UQ. That's when I came upon this thread. Now I'm going to make my own. Very excited. I have no sewing experience except a pillow I made back in middle school. Many years ago. I dug out this old 1969 kenmore machine and brought her back to life. It took some youtubing and some practice but I finally have the machine working quite well. I've just hemmed all 4 sides of my fabric. Now on to rolling and whipping.
This brings up a question: I understand that my ridgeline will make its' way through the whipping and be secured there. I understand that either my suspension will secure to the whipping itself as well as ridgeline, or it will secure to a loop that is secured to the whipping. My question is won't the knot simply slip of the end of the whipping? Or do I need to tie a knot in the actual whipping itself to make a kind of stop? I see Hennessy uses some sort of plastic piece at the end of the whipping that will catch whatever knot tries to slip off. It also has 2 melted holes through the whipping itself that the ridgeline and suspension line weave through and wrap around. Any reason I shouldn't try to copy that? Any insight is appreciated.
Also, Thank you to everyone who has offered any of the previous insight in this thread. A big thank you to Headchange4u for starting this thread. It is 7 years old and still going.
Just so someone doesn't make the same mistake as me, I should add:
The OP is cloning an Ultralight. It uses the 1.9 oz ripstop 70 denier. I was wanting to clone the Explorer Deluxe. I should have been after the 210 denier material. Not only did I forget that I wanted something that heavey but I may have also gotten a fabric that is even lighter than 1.9 oz. This mistake I made seems hard to make but after reading "1.9 oz ripstop" literally dozens and dozens of times in this thread, I just went looking for that. Even though my notes showed needing a fabric having a 210 denier rating. I know it's been asked before but aside from acquiring samples of ripstop from somewhere, does anyone know how to tell if I have 1.1 oz or 1.9 oz ripstop? Maybe I could bundle the piece I have and weigh it on a small digi scale? How translucent is the 1.9 oz stuff. Mine is fairly translucent.
Ghillieshot
12-08-2014, 09:41
Questoutfitters: For all your outdoor DIY zipper needs. (http://questoutfitters.com/zippers.htm#MAKE YOUR OWN ZIPPERS)
Thanks heaps for your help. Was just reading through this and saw the question I posted originally, as I read it I was wondering the exact same thing, then I realised that it was a post originally by me. Cheers for your help.
Ghillieshot
I did end up weighing a scrap piece and calculated it to be the 1oz stuff..not a problem as I've simply converted to a double layer..I've actually come a good way since last post..Just have to do bug net and all finished..pics to come
I have spent the last week reading this thread and have taken notes. I bought some ripstop from a local store. I am going with an 11ft piece x 60 inches. I'm affraid that my ripstop may only be 1.1 oz but can't say for certain as it didn't list the weight on the bolt. I'm going to go ahead and make it anyway. I'll try it out. If it won't sustain my 220lbs than maybe I'll give it to the wife. I was ready to pay close to 300 for a brand new hammock system. I only went to research a way to make my own UQ. That's when I came upon this thread. Now I'm going to make my own. Very excited. I have no sewing experience except a pillow I made back in middle school. Many years ago. I dug out this old 1969 kenmore machine and brought her back to life. It took some youtubing and some practice but I finally have the machine working quite well. I've just hemmed all 4 sides of my fabric. Now on to rolling and whipping.
This brings up a question: I understand that my ridgeline will make its' way through the whipping and be secured there. I understand that either my suspension will secure to the whipping itself as well as ridgeline, or it will secure to a loop that is secured to the whipping. My question is won't the knot simply slip of the end of the whipping? Or do I need to tie a knot in the actual whipping itself to make a kind of stop? I see Hennessy uses some sort of plastic piece at the end of the whipping that will catch whatever knot tries to slip off. It also has 2 melted holes through the whipping itself that the ridgeline and suspension line weave through and wrap around. Any reason I shouldn't try to copy that? Any insight is appreciated.
Also, Thank you to everyone who has offered any of the previous insight in this thread. A big thank you to Headchange4u for starting this thread. It is 7 years old and still going.
I have this all sorted now.
I ended up going with the following technique
Easy Hammock Knot 2.0 - Easiest Hammock Ever: http://youtu.be/AJlEQpcbM1I
I like how secure it is.
I rolled ends towards centre.passed SRL through before folding end over like video shows..I made a continuous loop and used it to secure the fold..I made a fixed loop in the end of both sides of the SRL and passed them through the continuous loop before passing it through itself like video shows..very happy with the way it turned out..I'm going to whip it as well just for extra security....
I grabbed some heavy duty eye bolts and hung it up in the basement..not only is this my first diy hammock, but it is my first hammock experience ever..it is by far the most comfortable thing I've laid on ever..
Not sure if I missed this in the thread, but is the only reason to have the ends sewn 8" from the ends is for attaching the bugnet? If I went without an attached bugnet would not having the 8" sewn from the ends change the feel of the lay?
thanks de wa4chq
WillUpnDown
12-30-2017, 17:02
So in my googling I found your drawing of what is just a rain fly. I thought it was hammock. As a hammock pattern, it does seems like an obvious idea.
Fabric cut in a parallelogram shape, then gathered at the ends. This would create 'sags' opposite the corner you've marked 'intersect' (So 'C's would be the ends) These bulges could easily be 'managed' with Knotty Mod shock cords--or you could use the anchor points as with the Hennessey. The 'natural flat lay' would then be rotated diagonally from it's perpendicular point. The only downside is cutting down from longer fabric, and being stuck with a single directional diagonal lay. Somebody tell me what I'm missing before I chop up a bunch of fabric.
curently making a mini hennessy hammock for a friends dog :P just for funn. will post pictures when its done!
Not sure if I missed this in the thread, but is the only reason to have the ends sewn 8" from the ends is for attaching the bugnet? If I went without an attached bugnet would not having the 8" sewn from the ends change the feel of the lay?
thanks de wa4chq
curently tackling the same problem my self. will post pics when i start sewing this weekend. making a mini hammock as a trail and error project, before i start on mye 180cm wide, 360cm long hennessy twist hammock