<sigh> UTO, another TLA to remember.
three letter acronym
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<sigh> UTO, another TLA to remember.
three letter acronym
Hey! Just changed to this ring buckle system, with out the extra loops. Its working great for me and solved some problems i had on my HH with the ringbuckles plus long straps system. Thanks.
hey grizz, how does the amsteel compare with gripability comparfed to the vectran? i haven't had vectran in awhile, so cannot try it.
i have fabricated some "garda plates" out of stock aluminum. they self align so the line feeds smooth and aligns properly for the most holding power. i made some mini's for guylines and some bigger ones for a garda suspension. they work, but the single braid dyneema slips under high load on both. they almost hold my weight. i was thinking the vectran might hold since it seems somewhat less slippery. i'm almost 100% positive a line with a cover would hold, but haven't tried any. i've actually had these made for awhile, but set them aside since they didn't work with the amsteel or the zing it.
anyway, will the amsteel work with the extra wrap like the vectran does? does the vectran hold well that way without any backup?
the few times I used Amsteel it seemed OK, but I wouldn't say I have enough experience for that to constitute an endorsement. Right now I'm using 3.8mm Spyderline with no issues.
Probably. The problem I found with the extra wrap is that becomes a bit involved loosening up the hitch to give out more slack. Sort of eliminates the "ease of use" advantage of the Garda hitch.Quote:
anyway, will the amsteel work with the extra wrap like the vectran does? does the vectran hold well that way without any backup?
Grizz
At some of the hang outs, I would love to see several of these cord types in person. It would be helpful to see & feel them & even have someone demonstrate them side by side, showing some of the pros & cons, along with a few of the knots that are being talked about.
Maybe a picture report could be done. Better yet, a video.
hey, here's those garda plates i was talking about. turns out they do work with the vectran (at least with the old piece i found which basically had the coating rubbed completely off and is therefore less slick)
http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery...2617_thumb.jpg
http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery...2623_thumb.jpg
yeah, i made em, they do hold, not if using super slick amsteel blue though, but they seem to work well with the vectran and i'm sure would work with a double braid (line with sheath/cover) i think they are somewhere around 10g for the 2 pieces you see, so 20g total to do both ends of the hammock
I just found this thread for the first time, and would like to add some info. This is in regards to bar tacks in webbing. I used to do a lot of climbing, and if you look carefully to the bar tacks sewn into the webbing and harnesses, you'll notice something. A properly sewn bar tack actually uses a straight stitch run back and forth across the webbing 4 or 5 times, then a zig-zag pattern is run over this to protect it. If it is abraided by something, the zig-zag will protect the actual stitch from wear keeping the integrity of the loop. When straight stitching, always use a stitch longer than 1.5mm, 2 or 3mm is good. When doing the zig-zag, use a stitch width that surrounds the straight stiches, with a stitch length of 0.5mm or so.
Either that, or a boxed "X" sewn twice (second one right on top of the first so it looks like one boxed "X") with a stitch length of at least 1.5mm. Both are more than strong enough. And always use polyester or nylon thread. Never cotton.
Dave