Printable View
I recently acquired a Warbonnet Blackbird and soon after a Mount Washington 4 under quilt and a High Sierra Sniveler over quilt.
Last weekend was my first use of them in the wild. Saturday night it dipped to 20 deg's. I was mostly comfortable but I'm not sure I have the under quilt installed correctly. Does any one know of a good video showing where and how to attach a MW4 to a Blackbird? The directions didn't help me much.
you need that monster snug to the hammock. The JRB suspension can be done in a prussik knot (wrapped 4-6 times) at each end.
I had CBS until I realized how snug this quilt needs to be to the hammock.
Where do I put the feet cords? When I stick my feet in the blackbird footbox the quilt shifts the other way. Should it go around the footbox somehow?
There are also 2 loops, each about a third of the way from each end on each side of the quilt. What are those for?
Step 1: Send it to Lonley RavenQuote:
Originally Posted by jeepcachr
Step 2: Wait for him to use it (for a few years)
Step 3: ????
Step 4 Profit!
:lol:
These loops are for people with Hennessy hammocks. Tie outs go through loops.Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepcachr
No. You'll want to experiment snugging the UQ tight like Raul says (lifting the hammock up until you get in it.) Since it's differentail cut won't matter how tight. Othes have mentioned this problem with full length underquilts. There are options. I sewed a loop at foot end of my MW4. Then sewed a stretchy cord and cord lock to footbox on the grosgrain hem to attach UQ to footbox to keep it from slipping. Did this on other side as well at shoulder point. Others have posted better ways to do it, but I don't have links on those.Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepcachr
Paul at ArrowHead Equipment sells triangle things to help prevent shoulder and footbox slip. Here is link talking about them. There are other remedies posted on here as well if you search under shoulder slip.
It's a great quilt, just need to experiment until you find the method that works for you.
I have not used the MW4 more than a few times with the WBBB, but I had a similar problem at first. If memory serves, I "biased" the JRB foot end suspension so that it was hung a bit more to the right. Dang, it is hard to put into words. Anyway, I figured out a way to make it pull more to the right, rather than exactly centered. After that, it stayed put nicely and was very warm on a very windy 18*F night. I think that if you look at my MW4 review- in the HF review section- you can find more detail about what I did.Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepcachr
P.S.
Here you go:
http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/s...ead.php?t=6377
Look at post #8 and 9. But caution: as I read these old post again, it occurs to me I reversed the words "left" and "right" a couple of times. So if I mention biasing to the left on the foot end, I mean "right", or the normal foot side as you lay on the diagonal. I wish I could do better at putting it into words. I just find a way to larks head the suspension so that is pulling more to the foot end's right side. Since I can't describe this well, I suggest just playing around with it, experimenting when it is not way cold.
The WBBB like a HH sleeps diagonally, but unlike a HH lacks the foot and shoulder tie outs that the JRB quilt ladder loops align with... No issue because the JRB quilts fit equally well without them, just as the fit Speer or ENO hammocks etc.
That said, those that want to ensure there is no shifting of the UQ can ad a tab with a nmitten hood or micro biner at the appropriate edge of the WBBB, Speer, ENO etc od use an elastic over the top from the foot quilt loop to the shoulder loop.
pan
Thanks BB58, my experience was similar to your initial impression the first 2 nights I felt the quilt wasn't doing as well as it should fortunately by the third night, which incidentally the temp that night dropped below 20, I had it mostly figured out. Other than it moving around on me a bit and not being quite as warm as I thought it should be. I do move a lot, so I'm not blaming the quilt. That thing is crazy warm when it's lined up right.
As it's my first underquilt and I only recently got the blackbird I thought I'd ask around to get a jump on the learning curve.
This is my hookup.
http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o...010/MW4-01.jpg
If it was really cold and I wanted to make sure the footbox stayed inside, I'd run a bungy from the tab you can see, over the top of the net to the tab on the other side and snug it up.
I've been attaching the shockcord on the hammock whipping, should I be attaching it farther up the line?Quote:
Originally Posted by swampfox
I attach it to the triangle with an S-biner.
http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o...010/MW4-02.jpg
There's a problem with full UQs in general, that defies a good solution: the hammock and quilt are suspended on one axis, and the diagonal sleeper is on another. You can pull the quilt to the right, or you can pull it to the left, and it will pretty much stay where you put it. But pulling one way for the foot end, and the other way for the head end (zig zag)...there's the rub. It deforms the quilt slightly, making for a loss of efficiency, and the suspension immediately begins trying to straighten out the zig zag. When that happens, cold shoulder, cold feet, or both.
This is very much a work in progress for me.
I swapped out the buckles for a whoopie sling, I could prussic the shock cord to the whoopie. I'll give that a try this weekend and see if moving the attachment point up makes a difference.Quote:
Originally Posted by swampfox
Thanks for all the reply's everyone! I've got a few things to try now. I really love the JRB quilts and the Blackbird.
Make sure the shock-cord goes over your feet in the footbox ....
that is key!!!!!
Shug
I must be weird or something. I don't have a problem with the JRB full length Hudson River under the Blackbird. As long as I get the hammock inside the UQ totally and don't get real athletic getting in, things stay pretty well where I need them to be. On the foot end I have the center draw cord mod which attaches at the whipping on the amsteel loop. The prussiks for the shock cord suspension are set at the knots on the amsteel loop at each end. I get in, reach around to snug up the head end draw cord, and sleep warm.
Do remember that the MW4 is 42" wide and most of the other JRB quilts are 48". So this may have some bearing on the slippage problem.
Cheers
Brian
The 42 inch MW3 which has an od width of 52 inches is a functional equilvelent of a standard 48 inch wide quilt when properly suspended on a hammock.
pan
I don't think it is a full UQ vs. 3/4 UQ issue but the problem is exacerbated with a full UQ
The issue is that we are trying to make a rectangular flat quilt conform to a gathered end hammock with a foot box
To exaggerate, try to make a piece of paper wrapped around the bottom half of a banana. Now add a mutant growth on the side of the banana…
The shorter piece of paper [i.e. 2/3 or 2/4 UQ] means less gaps but also less coverage along the spine of the banana [i.e. your feet and legs are not covered].
I have a seen a number of excellent DIY UQs on this site that show you can fabricate an UQ that conforms to the bottom of a gathered end hammock.
I assume it is just a matter of time before someone fabricates a direct fit-up quilt for the WBBB.
It sure would be a highly specialized piece of gear.
You mean like the Warbonnet Yeti? He's been making them for months. It's not terribly specialized... it's a little longer on one diagonal and would likely work for any gathered end hammock intended to allow the sleeper to lie on the diagonal, such as a Hennessy. I have trouble with seeing which end is which, myself, but fortunately it's horribly simple to attach/detach and switch it around if you need to.Quote:
Originally Posted by tjm
No, the Yeti is 40”W x 46”L and covers from shoulders to knees on a 6’ user.Quote:
Originally Posted by lori
I am thinking of more along the lines of a full length UQ that insulates under and around the WBBB footbox, which is what the OP is trying to do with his/her quilt.
And, just for argument's sake, I would say that all differential cut quilts are specialized gear.