Under quilt shape

Hi All
I bought a synthetic quilt ready made but without a cover on the weekend, it's about 6 1/2 ft x 5ft and cost just AUD$11.95.
So I plan to cut it so that it is narrower and make an under quilt out of it.
But should I keep it rectangular or maybe make it taper in from the middle toward both ends, similar in shape to a loaded hammock?

Then I just had a though to cut a head hole or slit more like in the middle so that it could be worn in camp before retiring for the night.

What do you all think?
Thanks

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by gunn parker

Hi All
I bought a synthetic quilt ready made but without a cover on the weekend, it's about 6 1/2 ft x 5ft and cost just AUD$11.95.
So I plan to cut it so that it is narrower and make an under quilt out of it.
But should I keep it rectangular or maybe make it taper in from the middle toward both ends, similar in shape to a loaded hammock?

Then I just had a though to cut a head hole or slit more like in the middle so that it could be worn in camp before retiring for the night.

What do you all think?
Thanks

---

Just so happens that in the midst of documenting something else this evening I took a picture of a couple quilts, the top one is synthetic, the bottom one down. The rectangular one has channels sewn into the head and foot ends, with shock cord. So you cinch them up to get a narrower head and foot. The sides of the rectangular one are just grosgrain I think. Conversely, the synthetic one on top has channels with shock cord running in the long sides, and you don't cinch up the head and foot. Cinching up the sides pulls the quilt into the hammock body.

Both work well on my hammocks. If I were doing a DIY quilt I'd likely go with the rectangular style because it is simpler. Also gives you more coverage for the camp fashion show, in case you're modest. ;)

Grizz

My question to those that have quilts is how much room they take up in a pack. I live where rain is predominate over the winter and am fearful of using down which compresses better than synthetic. I have made one synthetic quilt and I have a largish pack ( G4 home made ) and couldn't compress the quilt enuff to fit everything in without jumping in the pack with my feet to squeeze everything. It will work well for car camping but not for hiking.

Just a note: the top quilt in Griz's pic is asym, mostly designed for a Hennesy. It works for a "regular" hammock, (I have one, love it) but you need to be aware of that factor & rig just a bit differently or it makes for a cold cold night. I too will make a rectangular underquilt when I get to do so.

i think a good way to go about it would be to make it rectangle w/ a grosgrain attachment tab on each of the four corners.
then add a channel for a draw cord across each end.
since the quilt is already made, it may be more practical to add a draw cord channel made from some other material folded over.

that way attaching it to the hammock by the grosgrain loops & getting it properly adjusted for the weighted hammock is one step.
the draw cord is a separate adjustment for closing the ends to make it warmer or loosing them to vent.

on the head hole, do you plan to add omni tape to close it?
i'm thinking you will want to find a way add enough length to one of the omni tapes to allow them to over lap with out pulling the quilt out of it's normal flat shape.

i have been planning to add a head hole to one of my summer weight speer quilts too, but i plan on adding a collar instead of the simple slit.
http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery...5/PB120145.JPG

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by GREEN THERAPY

My question to those that have quilts is how much room they take up in a pack. I live where rain is predominate over the winter and am fearful of using down which compresses better than synthetic. I have made one synthetic quilt and I have a largish pack ( G4 home made ) and couldn't compress the quilt enuff to fit everything in without jumping in the pack with my feet to squeeze everything. It will work well for car camping but not for hiking.

---

Synthetic takes up a lot of room. I carried the camo one (Potomac) on a week-long trip this summer, and far and away it was the bulkiest thing in the pack. I carried it rather than the down one
a) for reasons related to stealth
b) for similar concerns about rain
c) because I really don't like the JRB green (sorry Jacks. But hammocking is all about personal preference, and I personally prefer other colors. But it is black on what I take to be the "inside". If the black side is as water resistant as the green side, then I'm happy to flip it to black side out.)

Were I to do it again (rather, when I do it again) I'd go with the down one, covered by a lightweight stealthy weather shield. The quilt is already in DWR ripstop, but a cover will add more protection from side-blown rain, and for everyone's eyes :)

Grizz

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by slowhike

the draw cord is a separate adjustment for closing the ends to make it warmer or loosing them to vent.

---

I had not thought about that at all and did not realise that you guys did it.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by slowhike

on the head hole, do you plan to add omni tape to close it?
i'm thinking you will want to find a way add enough length to one of the omni tapes to allow them to over lap with out pulling the quilt out of it's normal flat shape.

i have been planning to add a head hole to one of my summer weight speer quilts too, but i plan on adding a collar instead of the simple slit.

---

The slit was just a last minute duel use thought and I have not planed it yet but I have never seen any omni tape over here.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by GrizzlyAdams

Synthetic takes up a lot of room. I carried the camo one (Potomac) on a week-long trip this summer, and far and away it was the bulkiest thing in the pack. I carried it rather than the down one
a) for reasons related to stealth
b) for similar concerns about rain
c) because I really don't like the JRB green (sorry Jacks. But hammocking is all about personal preference, and I personally prefer other colors. But it is black on what I take to be the "inside". If the black side is as water resistant as the green side, then I'm happy to flip it to black side out.)

Were I to do it again (rather, when I do it again) I'd go with the down one, covered by a lightweight stealthy weather shield. The quilt is already in DWR ripstop, but a cover will add more protection from side-blown rain, and for everyone's eyes :)

Grizz

---

Grizz,

The black is the same DWR material so you can reverse it, as long as you are not using a HH Asym model (this would place the side loops in the wrong locations).

Pan

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by GrizzlyAdams

c) because I really don't like the JRB green (sorry Jacks. But hammocking is all about personal preference, and I personally prefer other colors.Grizz

---

I feel ya on that one! Such a great quilt, but a color I find less than desirable. Good thing nobody will be able to see it when it's inside the hammock keeping me warm. :D

Thanks grizz.... I am still looking for a "inexpensive" sleeping bag with compressable synthetic to modify as an underquilt. Patience is a virtue I hear, so will wait until the to good to be true deal comes along. Till then what I have is working to keep me warm so far.

Grizz- how small are you able to compress your Potomac? I've got a homemade version made per KAQ specs and from the pics I've seen of comparable sized down UQ, it looks like the down can compress to at least half the size of the Potomac. Does that sound about right?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by gunn parker

Hi All
I bought a synthetic quilt ready made but without a cover on the weekend, it's about 6 1/2 ft x 5ft and cost just AUD$11.95.
So I plan to cut it so that it is narrower and make an under quilt out of it.

---

What are the dimensions you will cut it to?

I'm making a synthetic top quilt/underquilt (rectangle) and I was thinking 72" x 46" might work.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Cannibal

Grizz- how small are you able to compress your Potomac? I've got a homemade version made per KAQ specs and from the pics I've seen of comparable sized down UQ, it looks like the down can compress to at least half the size of the Potomac. Does that sound about right?

---

To a first approximation, yes. I have a memory of some picture posted (Just Jeff's site?) that has these packed side-by-side. I'll have my gear out again later this week and can check then.

Grizz

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Peter_pan

Grizz,

The black is the same DWR material so you can reverse it, as long as you are not using a HH Asym model (this would place the side loops in the wrong locations).

Pan

---

Pan, great, thanks. For my bridge we'll fly black-side out. More on that later.

Grizz

If the Jacks would just offer ONE QUILT in a subdued color (with baffles), I'd buy two of them. In fact, I'd order one right now if it were available. I like my Potomac, but I'd like to have a JRB also. The synthetic Potomac is bulky but I still have plenty of room in my GG Vapor Trail. If I were buying gear from scratch and I was committed to a synthetic UQ I'd look hard at a Moonbow Gearskin for a pack.

I'd stick with down... But that's mainly because I've always used a down bag. The cost is much lower when you consider the life of the product.

Tomato, tomahto.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Peter_pan

Grizz,

The black is the same DWR material so you can reverse it, as long as you are not using a HH Asym model (this would place the side loops in the wrong locations).

Pan

---

Thanks for reminding me......I knew this but have not thought about it for some time.

anybody tried attaching zippers to the outside of the hammock skin so you can just zip a sleepingbag onto the outside?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by kohburn

anybody tried attaching zippers to the outside of the hammock skin so you can just zip a sleepingbag onto the outside?

---

That might be problematic due to sag, and the zippers would be heavy. I have thought about using plastic D-rings (like those on Brian's Macat tarps) and webbing to fasten the UQ and provide adjustment.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by kohburn

anybody tried attaching zippers to the outside of the hammock skin so you can just zip a sleepingbag onto the outside?

---

Thats what I love about this forum... New idea's, new avenues to explore. I have zippered on a bug screen and the stretch factor hasn't been problematic so far ( five months of continuos testing ) I have been using velcro to attach various things and my love affair with it is at the ragged edge. Zippers can be bought relatively cheap at most Upholstery shops and they have a good selection of sizes. Cut the length you need off a roll, buy the pull and learn to sew them on. Does everything have to have a steep learning curve ?

The weight factor can be offset by lighter packs. But thats a whole different subject and not part of this forum often.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Peter_pan

Grizz,

The black is the same DWR material so you can reverse it, as long as you are not using a HH Asym model (this would place the side loops in the wrong locations).

Pan

---

Are there any reasons why we couldn't sew a couple more gross grain loops onto the UQ to make it fully reversible for an HH?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by stoikurt

Are there any reasons why we couldn't sew a couple more gross grain loops onto the UQ to make it fully reversible for an HH?

---

I'm not seeing any reasons. It feels like there's a length of gross grain tape along the edge (inside the fabric). It is 1/2" or more wide (working from memory), enough to sew extra loops onto it, oriented 90 degrees to the edge. After all these loops don't come under a lot of stress.

Grizz

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by NCPatrick

What are the dimensions you will cut it to?

I'm making a synthetic top quilt/underquilt (rectangle) and I was thinking 72" x 46" might work.

---

My quilt is 78" x 59", I am 70" long so I guess I don't need it to be 78" long.
so maybe I'll cut it 70" x 50" maybe?
It would be nice to have it as small as possible to get the pack size and carry weight down too.

maybe I could get away with 64" x your 46" but once I cut it, that's it so I gotta get it right :)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by gunn parker

My quilt is 78" x 59", I am 70" long so I guess I don't need it to be 78" long.
so maybe I'll cut it 70" x 50" maybe?
It would be nice to have it as small as possible to get the pack size and carry weight down too.

maybe I could get away with 64" x your 46" but once I cut it, that's it so I gotta get it right :)

---

if you could get someone to lay in your hammock while you clip the quilt to the edges using clothes pins or something like that, you could make a much more realistic judgement on the width before you cut & hem it.

Your probably right, I'll have to get the wife to lay around in it for a while. I used her when I designed my (unfinished) bug net :)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by GREEN THERAPY

The weight factor can be offset by lighter packs. But thats a whole different subject and not part of this forum often.

---

I'm usually more concerned with pack size than ounces. doesn't matter how light it is if i keep bumping into trees. I've got a 30* bag that is 4"x7" in its compression sack. zipped open it is the right length and width to attach diagonally and protect my entire sleeping area. If i can use that for the under quilt and a second one to sleep inside of then i can forgo the sleeping pad entirely and have two sleeping bags with a total size of 4x14 (smaller than one rolled up camp pad)

however i did consider that the sleeping bag is not water proof and most likely would lose heat to wind so it may be better to use an underfly to atleast protect it from wind and water. or perhaps just add a water/windproof skin to the bag in which case it could be used as a bivy sack in a pinch.

the greatest weight savings comes from dual purpose items that let you leave one other item at home. :)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by stoikurt

Are there any reasons why we couldn't sew a couple more gross grain loops onto the UQ to make it fully reversible for an HH?

---

No reason..... just adds some very minor weight.....Of course if you mess it up and ask us to fix it, it will be outside of the warranty.

Pan

Seems pretty far-fetched to me to mess up sewing on grosgrain, but okay <shrug>... what is the concern with adding loops to the quilt? (ie. how could it mess it up?)

I think he was just covering his "liability" so to speak...

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Peter_pan

.....Of course if you mess it up and ask us to fix it, it will be outside of the warranty.

---

I feel a rant coming on...

<rant>

Wow. Your customers are suggesting a product improvement, and you warn them about voiding their warranties. That's quite arrogant.

Why not realize that your customers aren't happy with the non-stealthiness of your product and in-good-faith offer to support them in improving the situation?

It seems to me that there are many devoted JRB customers on this site, many of which are long-term repeat-business buyers. When that group is telling you that there is a definite need for more stealthy color options, perhaps that should be taken at face value..:rolleyes: This is certainly not the first time that the issue has been brought up. Even if the only response to the issue is to aid them in adding tie-outs so they can easily 'flip' the quilts, that's better than nothing.

As an avid member of this online community, and as a manufacturer, you certainly must realize the value of direct product improvement suggestions from your customer base. There is no doubt that this forum, and recommendations given on it, have generated customers for JRB. Why not take the opportunity to realize that those same customers are asking you for a product improvement, and do something about it besides telling them that they're voiding their warranties by making those improvements?

</rant>

Electronic communication is notoriously poor for conveying attitudes or intentions, particularly terse ones, and Pan's responses are always terse. When I parsed the response I saw that warranty would be voided if one messed up the stitching job, not necessarily if one stitched on one without mishap. As a statement of limitations of liability, that is reasonable, even expected. It did not say they aren't listening to the customers. A few days ago when there some discussion about whether the 10'x11' tarp would be available in a muted brown, within a day the pre-ordering site changed to include color options. Maybe they intended that to begin with, maybe not, but they were listening to the discussion.

As a past and likely future customer of the JRB products I'll just say that I'd find attractive a quilt was designed to be reversible, with muted brown on one side and muted olive on the other. For now I'll flip black-side out when my Nest goes onto my DIY bridge, and wear sunglasses when inside to protect against the green that peeks out over the side of the suspension cut.

Grizz

I agree with Grizz that its often hard.

And as a small part time manufacturer I also recognize the need to be clear about who is responsible for what...

Since he said it was possible to do the changes, he also had to note that JRB wouldn't be responsible for fixing damage done by a home user who was intentionally altering the product after he'd said it was possible. Even though they'd still fix it, it wouldn't be under warrantee if the repairs were necessary.

That alls aid, I think Girzz's colour suggestion is the best one yet.

I think customers like options......
I'd buy one if it was brown and OD like grizz suggested. I don't see any benefit to the bright green. I'm sure it's cheap but manufacturers get all sorts of discounts on volume. I think it would be had to find someone into hammock camping dislike the brown and OD colors....
Heck look at the whole line of Hennessy products.

Angrysparrow, Schrochem, et al,

JRB listens to customers plenty.... Evidence the NS design 3 + years ago (SGT Rock's request).... and the range of 16 models and sizes of quilts.... Understand that for the volume of quilts stocked and sold, color options on the shelf are not viable.... Also please undestand that any any given time well over a hundred quilts are in some stage of production. Managing special requests is a major effort, thus we quit doing custom features or orders a couple of years ago. BTW, true custom work sites charge significantly higher prices and they should for all the time inefficiencies of custom work.

Virtually any one can add a ladder loop for a side tie out.... To do it professionally though requires the opening of the rolled hem with an unstitcher.... many unskilled users of unstichers can poke a lot of holes before they are finished.. :eek: .. my warrantee comment was one in jest... guess I should have put a winkie on it...

FWIW, we have make preferences for a more muted green known to our material source... we are working this point also.

Pan

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by kohburn

I'm usually more concerned with pack size than ounces. doesn't matter how light it is if i keep bumping into trees. I've got a 30* bag that is 4"x7" in its compression sack. zipped open it is the right length and width to attach diagonally and protect my entire sleeping area. If i can use that for the under quilt and a second one to sleep inside of then i can forgo the sleeping pad entirely and have two sleeping bags with a total size of 4x14 (smaller than one rolled up camp pad)

however i did consider that the sleeping bag is not water proof and most likely would lose heat to wind so it may be better to use an underfly to atleast protect it from wind and water. or perhaps just add a water/windproof skin to the bag in which case it could be used as a bivy sack in a pinch.

the greatest weight savings comes from dual purpose items that let you leave one other item at home. :)

---

The G4 is a well designed pack and is narrower then my widest part .... er my shoulders... or at least they were the widest part a few years ago. So no porb with bumping into trees. What is the brand name and model of your bag? The sizing sounds enticing...

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Peter_pan

Virtually any one can add a ladder loop for a side tie out.... To do it professionally though requires the opening of the rolled hem with an unstitcher.... many unskilled users of unstichers can poke a lot of holes before they are finished.. :eek: .. my warrantee comment was one in jest... guess I should have put a winkie on it...

FWIW, we have make preferences for a more muted green known to our material source... we are working this point also.

Pan

---

Woo HOO good colours.... maybe.... ;)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Peter_pan

FWIW, we have make preferences for a more muted green known to our material source... we are working this point also.

Pan

---

Aww man! That's going to make me put off buying one until then. :D

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Cannibal

Grizz- how small are you able to compress your Potomac? I've got a homemade version made per KAQ specs and from the pics I've seen of comparable sized down UQ, it looks like the down can compress to at least half the size of the Potomac. Does that sound about right?

---

See attachment. Potomac runs 16" x 5" x 5" in its own sack ( compression sack will squeeze this down more), the Next about 8" x 4" x 4".

Grizz

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by GREEN THERAPY

The G4 is a well designed pack and is narrower then my widest part .... er my shoulders... or at least they were the widest part a few years ago. So no porb with bumping into trees. What is the brand name and model of your bag? The sizing sounds enticing...

---

its not a brand i'm familiar with and i haven't tested the validity of its rating yet. but it was so cheap and small i just had to buy it to see if it was any good. figured worst case it would make for a warm weather bag.

Alpine Design Adventurer +30° Sleeping Bag

found the same bag under a different name on ebay (click here)

Everyone may as well stop asking Pan to make a quilt in muted colors, it's gonna be day-glo green forever...those guys have color vision issues, I think.

Has anyone used a square quilt in an UnderCover without tailoring?

I bought a Poncho Liner from Wiggy's to do some experimenting. I'm thinking of putting it in the HH Supershelter UnderCover, beneath the OCF pad, and slacking off the UnderCover. At the entrance, I will simply fold the corner into the hammock; once I am in the hammock, I'll fold it out between the UC and the hammock to cover the entrance. I'll fold the other corners where they extend above the UC.

Hi
I have cut out the size and shape of my quilt and would like to use thin elastic bungee type cord to hold it to the hammock. Does anyone have any photos of this cord attached to the quilt and at the hammock end? I am not sure of the best way to go from here. I want to test it out tonight before making the cover for it.
Thanks

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by gunn parker

Hi
I have cut out the size and shape of my quilt and would like to use thin elastic bungee type cord to hold it to the hammock. Does anyone have any photos of this cord attached to the quilt and at the hammock end? I am not sure of the best way to go from here. I want to test it out tonight before making the cover for it.
Thanks

---

shots of the end of my Potomac (the KAQ design).
There are channels for the shock cord on all four sides of the quilt.

Grizz

Grizz...looking at this UQ...How does it attach to the hammock? I see the two long cords in the second photo...but have yet to figure out how it attaches to the hammock support.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by alex30808

Grizz...looking at this UQ...How does it attach to the hammock? I see the two long cords in the second photo...but have yet to figure out how it attaches to the hammock support.

---

The long cords are actually one length, a loop, also shock cord. It goes up to a hook that is attached to the suspension line via a prussik knot. So you just grab the shock cord loop and clip it onto the hook. Adjust the tension by moving the hook+prussik knot along the suspension line.

Grizz

Griz, my KAQ (made by Patrick) also has a loop of shock cord that goes over the ridgeline. I've thought about ordering JRB's suspension kit and hybridizing the two maybe. Patrick's shockcord tunnels work really well, it really hugs the side of the hammock. The only cold spot I've found yet (and I haven't been able to really cold test it yet) was under my knees, and that seems to be a common complaint. I've thought about a piece of thin, flat nylon tape at knee level that runs over the top of the ridgeline to snug it up. Maybe use two little plastic D rings to adjust it. If you used a Black Bishop sack you could set it and forget it.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Take-a-knee

Griz, my KAQ (made by Patrick) also has a loop of shock cord that goes over the ridgeline. I've thought about ordering JRB's suspension kit and hybridizing the two maybe. Patrick's shockcord tunnels work really well, it really hugs the side of the hammock. The only cold spot I've found yet (and I haven't been able to really cold test it yet) was under my knees, and that seems to be a common complaint. I've thought about a piece of thin, flat nylon tape at knee level that runs over the top of the ridgeline to snug it up. Maybe use two little plastic D rings to adjust it. If you used a Black Bishop sack you could set it and forget it.

---

having a cold spot under the knee makes sense, I think the shape of our body in the hammock bottom naturally creates an air gap there.

Now that you mention it, my Potomac may have been sent with shock cord I could use over the ridgeline. Last time I used it in a HH was June, and I forget these details. Indeed last weekend I took the family camping, my wife and youngest to sleep in a tent. Grabbed a tent I bought new in August 2006 for a family trip then, I've probably pitched it four times. Got to the campsite in the dark, and commenced to set up the tent with headlamps. 'xcepting I couldn't remember which poles went where, and so on...got it sorted out in the end but was sweating it for sure. :o

Grizz