Differential UQ final questions

Well fellow DIY'ers,

I'm about to try and start my first differentially cut UQ, well, my first UQ ever actually. I have spared no expense and purchased M50for the top and bottom, nanoseeum mesh, and have all the materials for channels and what not. It is going to be a 3/4 length. I had a few questions for the experts though prior to me starting.

how far out do most of you take the baffles to top and bottom edges of the UQ? Does some of the nanoseeum mesh get roll hemmed into the channel, and do you need to finish the ends of the nanoseeum like traditional ripstop or will it not fray inside the UQ.

I think that's it for now. If I have any more, I'll lay them on y'all. Thanks

I take mine just a bit into the hem.

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Originally Posted by MAD777

I take mine just a bit into the hem.

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Same here. Nanoseeum, at least the stuff I used, does not fray and does not require finishing.

If you add darts to help shape the UQ then I think 1" x 10" on the top/ inner piece and 2" x 15" on the bottom. Remember the bottom of the chamber is wider than the top. I decided not to use these darts so my UQ lays flat.

I did put tiny (3/4" x 3"??) darts in the bottom between each baffle. I did this so the top and bottom edge would line up when we sewed it shut.

I found this thread helpful: http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=40624

I didn't think about putting darts. I was using the differential UQ calculator thread. It didn't really mention darts. I might have to make sure I didnt miss that detail.

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Originally Posted by Living the Highlife

I didn't think about putting darts. I was using the differential UQ calculator thread. It didn't really mention darts. I might have to make sure I didnt miss that detail.

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The UQ Calculator doesn't have darts. Since UQs usually have cinched ends, I didn't find darts necessary. As a bonus, having non-darted ends (ie a rectangular quilt) makes it easier to use as a big down blanket, or even as a topquilt if you add some Velcro tabs for a convertible footbox.

UQs with a stiffer insulating layer (IX, for example) would benefit more from darts.

Thanks for that catsplat. I think I have enough confidence to start my project. Just have to go pick up a wax pencil or some sort of marking device.

Highlife,
I misread your question and responded pre coffee.
Now that I have read it more carefully I will say this:

I sewed the baffle to the end of the top and to the end of the bottom piece.
I put tiny tiny tiny darts in the bottom piece between baffles so that the top and bottom pieces line up straight to sew shut at the head. Because the bottom piece is wider, it would be bunched up if you did not do that.

I did not put the big darts. Just little ones to line up the ends.

The thread I refered to earlier sews the ends of the baffles at a 90 degree angle to the UQ. It was hard to decipher and even harder to explain. I didnt do it because I was too late in the process before I understood. Also, his method makes the bottom piece slightly longer. His method is elegant, but I didnt do it.

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Originally Posted by CatSplat

The UQ Calculator doesn't have darts. Since UQs usually have cinched ends, I didn't find darts necessary. As a bonus, having non-darted ends (ie a rectangular quilt) makes it easier to use as a big down blanket, or even as a topquilt if you add some Velcro tabs for a convertible footbox.

UQs with a stiffer insulating layer (IX, for example) would benefit more from darts.

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Do you also have to account for baffle height being a little off due to it being sewn at an angle with the offset stitching, or am I just being dumb?

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Originally Posted by Living the Highlife

Do you also have to account for baffle height being a little off due to it being sewn at an angle with the offset stitching, or am I just being dumb?

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Apologies in advance if I'm not interpreting your question correctly.

Are you asking about the height of the baffles being affected by sewing opposite sides of the baffle material to their respective shell pieces, causing a vertical "Z" shape? If so, the difference is very minimal, so small that your seam accuracy will cause a much more significant height variation. Also keep in mind that the quilt is a not a rigid structure, and the down decompression and weight (in a hung UQ) will want to pull the baffles straight.

Also a note about darts: When I was talking about them being unnecessary, I was referring to the practice of darting both the inner and outer layers to make an "ovoid" quilt. If you are darting the ends of the wider outer layer to match the width of the inner layer for your end seams, that's a great idea and one that should work very well. I may run some numbers and see if I can make that into an optional addition to the calculator.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by CatSplat

Apologies in advance if I'm not interpreting your question correctly.

Are you asking about the height of the baffles being affected by sewing opposite sides of the baffle material to their respective shell pieces, causing a vertical "Z" shape? If so, the difference is very minimal, so small that your seam accuracy will cause a much more significant height variation. Also keep in mind that the quilt is a not a rigid structure, and the down decompression and weight (in a hung UQ) will want to pull the baffles straight.

Also a note about darts: When I was talking about them being unnecessary, I was referring to the practice of darting both the inner and outer layers to make an "ovoid" quilt. If you are darting the ends of the wider outer layer to match the width of the inner layer for your end seams, that's a great idea and one that should work very well. I may run some numbers and see if I can make that into an optional addition to the calculator.

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I was asking about that indeed!! I figured it wouldnt affect it that much, but me being completely rediculous in my planning and end product, I had to ask. let me know about that dart idea, I have to make another UQ down the road, so I might try and complicate it more!!:lol: