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My thread goes all over the place when I try to hem. I do pin the material but end up hitting the pin then I over compensate and the thread is next to the edge then back to the center..blah,blah, blah
Do you use a seam guide or freehand it. Anyone got any other suggestions on keeping it straight.
I guide it with both hands, one behind and one in front. I go slow also.
Make sure to insert the pins perpendicular to the seam or hem with the heads on the outside. Remove each pin as it comes to the presser foot. The cover plate on your machine should have lines marked on it to indicate seam width. Select the proper mark and keep your seam edge parallel with and on the mark. Some machines have screw holes in the bed plate to allow a seam guide to be attached. This is nothing more than a plate that the seam edge should butt up against. The other method that I have found to be helpful is to run a thin line of masking tape on the bedplate of the machine at a distance from your needle eqal to your seam width. Extend this a few inches toward you from the needle and it should help keep you lined up. If your machine runs a little fast you can apply slight pressure to the hand wheel to slow it down but be careful not to overload the motor. And above all, start out slow then slow down!!! Patience is the key.
The masking tape could also help with slippage. Hmmmm. I should try that.
I put up a couple of pictures to help explain. Both are set at 5/8" in these examples.
http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery....php?i=782&c=4
http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery....php?i=783&c=4
The first is the masking tape method and the second is an actualseam guide.
This seam guide has a very short guide plate.
My machine came with a bunch of accessories. I think a seam guide was included with it. If I remember correctly it is where the material actually goes thru the seam guide to hold it a the right hem. I will have to check and see.
Two more things. If your machine has a presser foot tension adjustment, it should be just about all the way tight for ripstop and other thin, slippery fabrics and make sure to drop the needle first as that will hold the fabric in place when you drop the presser foot. Same thing when you turn a corner. Stop the machine, leave the needle in the fabric, raise the presser foot, turn the fabric around the needle, drop the presser foot and continue on. That will ensure a continuous line of stitching. Hope this helps.
Pretty much whenever you stop for a brake leave the needle. Easier said, than remembered, but try to make it a habit.
Just take your time and go slow. I keep one hand on the fabric behind the foot and one in front to guide it through. Don't pull the fabric through the machine, just let the machine feed it.
My machine as hash marks to the right of the foot that shows how wide the seam is. I have found it's easier to line up the fabric with one of those lines and concentrate on keeping the fabric lined up with that line. I don't watch the needle sew.
Stop and check the seam as it comes out of the back of the pressure foot every foot or so to make sure everything is sewing right.
Ewker,
Are you making you own hammock?:eek:
if your making a 1/2" hem how far would you bring the thread in to sew. I figure you don't want it to close to the edge of the material or to close to the folded edges...so the middle? does the hem go on the inside or outside..I could see it getting ripped apart on either side. Do you put seam tape or seam seal it afterwards to keep water out
You didn't answer the question. Just say it, you'll fell better. We're all here to support you and it's ok.Quote:
Originally Posted by headchange4u
Where you want the stitching depends on what you're making. If the hem will see a lot of abrasion, you might want the stitch close to the edges to reduce areas of the hem that might catch on stuff.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ewker
For a 1/2" hem, I use the width of the foot as a guide for rolling. My machine has L/C/R needle positions, which are spaced about 1/8" apart. For a general hem, I'll stitch the inside of the hem first (needle in the Left position), then sew another line at the outside (needle in the Right position). I just line the edge of the material up with the edge of the foot.
Once you get more comfortable working with the machine, you'll find that sewing faster actually gives you a straighter stitch - to a degree. For me there's a "sweet spot" on the speed and it just takes some practice to find it.
Usually a hem doesn't need to be sealed for water - it's on the outside of the piece, not in the middle where you would need water protection. Seams in the middle of tarps and such need to be sealed, of course.
You want to keep your stitch as close to the inside of the hem (where the fabric folds) as possible. If you are doing a double stitch, do the inside first. You can look at almost any piece of clothing and get an idea of where it should be.
Since you are starting out you may want to sew a little more toward the middle/outside edge until you get comfortable sewing.
EDIT:
This is how I do a roll hem when making a hammock. As others have said, different stitches for different applications.
Those are difficult questions to answer without knowing what type of seam you are using or what you are trying to make. Here is a link that may shed some light on the subject.
http://www.thru-hiker.com/workshop.asp?subcat=11&cid=14
Strike this as these are for seams and not hems. Still good info though, just doesn't apply to your question.
thanks for all the info
I thought of another question. Do you trim off the excess (loose) edges before you hem or just make them hem larger then trim.
I'm not really following you, there...?Quote:
Originally Posted by Ewker
I think you would want to do any trimming before hemming. After all, hemming is supposed to cover up all loose edges.
I just fold those frayed edges into the hem.
I heat seal all of my edges. Probibly not needed, but just one more layer of security without adding any weight.Quote:
Originally Posted by headchange4u
I heat seal any cut edges but the frayed/unfinshed edge that's on most fabrics when you get them I just leave.
That depends on what you're making...for some things, you don't want to use the selvedge - it's not as strong usually. On my tarps, for instance, I cut it off so I'm using nothing but "good" material in the ridge seam. Ed's black sil, just as a side note, doesn't have noticeable selvedge. His grey does.Quote:
Originally Posted by headchange4u
I also cut those off. I think I gain in terms of strength while only losing a couple inches of width.Quote:
Originally Posted by blackbishop351
ok you have trimed the frayed edges off. You now have a nice edge to put a hem on. If your gonna make a 1/2" hem do you fold the edge of the material back say 3/4" and pin it then run you thread 1/2" from the folded edge. I hope that makes sense.
Not following you on this one. Here is what I do.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ewker
I make 3/4" seams (no good reason, just like the way they look). I fold the heat sealed end over 3/4", then fold that under itself 3/4". I then add a pin in the middle of this. I put 2 rows of stitches in this. One 1/4" from each side. This way there is 3 layers of fabric in the entire hem. There is also 3 layers of fabric in each row of stiches. I think this gives you the strongest hem.
that must take a while to fold,pin and sew it twice
It did at first, now after I few hammocks and a couple hundred feet of sewing I can do it without pinning the entire length. I usually just measure and pin the end, then use the marks on the machine plate and fold as I do. It took awhile and a couple failed hammocks for me to get to this point. Right now I only pin the entire length of things I have a lot of time or money in. My hammocks only run $4, so messing one up is not a big deal.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ewker
Folding twice is necessary on most things - it's called a rolled hem. This way, the cut edge is completely hidden. Pinning and sewing each time is time consuming, but until you're comfortable with the mechanics of sewing it keeps things a lot straighter. I hardly pin anything anymore. If I need a hem or seam to be really nice and straight I might pin it once (fold it twice first, then pin), but usually I just fold in 6-8" increments as I sew.
I should add that the lines of the ripstop in the fabric are really helpful guides. But they will strech. So if the material is pulled alot they may not be straight. It is helpful for me in making straight cuts and stitch lines, but use at your own risk.
I've found that a separate straightedge is much more reliable. JMO.Quote:
Originally Posted by hammock engineer
How much weight does the bias tape add?Quote:
Originally Posted by TeeDee
I do that when I am using anything other than $1 fabric of a project that warrents straight lines. Other than that, close enough is good enough for me.Quote:
Originally Posted by blackbishop351
I have found that for a beginner (thats me) cellophane tape works great.
I start the end how I want it and put a piece down. Then about 18in away I roll the hem and pull it tight. all the fabric in between will fold itself and is ready for the amount of tape you want. Tape doesn't leave holes and does not need to be removed when sewing. A good choice for anyone with little experience sewing.
Once its all taped up run it though the machine. I keep everything looking straight by making sure the gap next to the foot is always the same.
Thanks for the weight breakdown. I don't think I will add it to my hammocks, but I am thinking it might be useful on other things.Quote:
Originally Posted by TeeDee