"New Suspension" Assistance

New to me that is.

Would this work?
Left to right: treestrap working end doubled back on itself, toggle/trailstick/etc., dead eye of whoopie, adjustable end of whoopie, dutch biner, chainlink, hammock

http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...ndertoe1/2.jpg



http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...ndertoe1/1.jpg


Girth hitch the dead eye of whoopie and tighten.

My thought is that the toggle or trail stick is only undergoing "compression" forces as you are not actually hanging off the toggle.

The main reason I ask is I am attempting to go toggleless and am wondering if a trail stick could withstand the kind of force I'd be subjecting it to with this setup.

It appears that this is, in essence, the same setup as a MSH with a toggle but more "idiot proof" as the girth hitch is not slipping off the toggle.

Come to think about it, as I am typing this, you could do a girth behind a MSH too. Would this work as well?

What's the purpose of the biner near the hammock? Why not just larkshead the sling's fixed eye to the hammock and put the working end around the toggle?

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Originally Posted by Just Jeff

What's the purpose of the biner near the hammock? Why not just larkshead the sling's fixed eye to the hammock and put the working end around the toggle?

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This was my thought process for dutch biner near the hammock:

-you can entirely remove the suspension for multiple hammocks (as long as they all have chainlinks) - traveller, etc.

-dutch biner replaces drip strip (haven't previously had an issue, but still)

-allows the fixed eye to be at the treestrap end so I could girth hitch behind the MSH and toggle (idiot proof so the whoopie aint slipping no way)

-with my wbbb, i can rotate the hammock 180* after setup, if need be, to change the opening direction (don't know why I would, but still an option)

I previously had the aforementioned setup with a true biner rather than a toggle on the treestrap (partly because I already had them, partly because I fear slipping off the toggle), so I've been experimenting.

he's just "jeff becking"

seriously though, i've had my whoopie slip off the marlin spiked toggle

and this suspension idea comes primarily from "the dutch", with a few idiot proof changes.

i do like the versatility to switch the wbbb opening, and exchange whoopies, etc.

He could girth hitch the working end to the strap as he's done above, but he'd have to be sure the whoopie length adjustment is good to go before making the girth hitch as it would be a chore to adjust once you've hitched to the strap. With his method, you don't have that issue.

Plus, I've always liked the idea of being able to separate the suspension from the hammock. That allows me to use small fixed length chains links at home on my hammock stand without a bunch of suspension laying on the ground. For the cost of some small chain links and Dutch biners, I think the penalty is worth it.

~Dan

that almost exactly how i have me suspension set up for my BB...except for the fact that I larks headed the fixxed eye end of my whoopie to one of the loops on my tree hugger

The more I look at this, the more I like it. I guess one concern would be the strap slipping over the toggle and slowly (or quickly) lowering you to the ground, something that could not happen with the MSH. The friction caused by the girth hitch is the only thing preventing the straps from sliding around the toggle in the above arrangement. It may be completely sufficient, though.

~Dan

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Originally Posted by DannyBoy2k

The more I look at this, the more I like it. I guess one concern would be the strap slipping over the toggle and slowly (or quickly) lowering you to the ground, something that could not happen with the MSH. The friction caused by the girth hitch is the only thing preventing the straps from sliding around the toggle in the above arrangement. It may be completely sufficient, though.

~Dan

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I agree, in hindsight I love the MSH but still with the girth "past it" so as to not slip off the toggle. It may be an unfounded fear, but as grammy always said, "better safe than sorry little tendertoe" :lol:

If I could suggest something...turn the whoopie around and attach it to the hugger. Then you can click the biner to the loop on the hammock. The biner becomes the disconnection point, you still have the water break, you can shorten the hugger, you can pack your wet suspension seperately and you won't slip off a marlin spike hitch toggle.

Second way in this vid.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IrYQMW9SHik

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DannyBoy2k

He could girth hitch the working end to the strap as he's done above, but he'd have to be sure the whoopie length adjustment is good to go before making the girth hitch as it would be a chore to adjust once you've hitched to the strap. With his method, you don't have that issue.

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Same here. And the fact of being able to detach the suspension for different reasons. I do this so I don't have to have 4 complete suspensions for each of my hammocks. I can just take the suspension and use it for any of my hammocks, except for my bridge hammock, which I have yet to play around with or even set up.

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Originally Posted by ZeroLozen

that almost exactly how i have me suspension set up for my BB...except for the fact that I larks headed the fixxed eye end of my whoopie to one of the loops on my tree hugger

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i'm trying that style out too... what i don't like is that your whoopie is locked at a fixed length on the end of a tree strap. easy enough to do multiple wraps around a tree i suppose... but........
for my money, i still like being able to control where my whoopie attaches to the strap.
the convenience of the toggle is another item to lose, another piece of hardwear etc.... unless you search out the trail stick. a biner is too heavy.... but a descender ring might work quite nicely..........

again, i could beck my suspension for days....

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Originally Posted by Dutch

Second way in this vid.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IrYQMW9SHik

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Yep. Second option on Dutch's video is exactly how I each of my hammocks set up. With the addition of using Dutch clips on the huggers. Unless tree hugger is not long enough to go around tree...then I do what he had done and pass the whoopie through the loop on the hugger.

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Originally Posted by Dutch

If I could suggest something...turn the whoopie around and attach it to the hugger. Then you can click the biner to the loop on the hammock. The biner becomes the disconnection point, you still have the water break, you can shorten the hugger, you can pack your wet suspension seperately and you won't slip off a marlin spike hitch toggle.

Second way in this vid.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IrYQMW9SHik

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I do like this for "extending the treestrap" the way you did on the second tree in the vid, however, for smaller diameter trees, you are forced to wrap the tree hugger around the tree several times to shorten. Also, the webbing to amsteel knot is troublesome IMO to undo.

I am looking for the versatility of being able to have your "attachment point" for your whoopie to treestrap be moveable. Not to be locked into having my whoopie semi-permanently attached to the webbing end.

The marlinspike and toggle is the way to go - but - I am scared :eek: of slipping off the toggle so thats why I am looking into the girth behind it.

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Originally Posted by rip waverly

easy enough to do multiple wraps around a tree i suppose...

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yep...smaller tree > wrap tree hugger

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rip waverly

the convenience of the toggle is another item to lose, another piece of hardwear etc....

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If you tie a keeper loop on your toggle and girth hitch the toggle to one of the end loops on your tree hugger, you'll only lose the toggle if you lose your hugger.

~Dan

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Originally Posted by DannyBoy2k

If you tie a keeper loop on your toggle and girth hitch the toggle to one of the end loops on your tree hugger, you'll only lose the toggle if you lose your hugger.

~Dan

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well played. i likee. THANKS!